Rear trunk torsion bar removal |
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Rear trunk torsion bar removal |
watsonrx13 |
Feb 20 2007, 07:09 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Does anyone have a link to the posting showing the home-made tool and technique for removing the torsion bars holding the rear trunk?
I need to replace/reweld the trunk hinge bracket. I'm planning to remove the torsion bars, then remove the rest of the old bracket, clean up the old weld and/or any metal missing from the inner fender well, then postion the trunk, with the new bracket attached, and weld the new bracket on. Any other suggestions, comments, observations, prayers, etc? BTW, the search function doesn't work too well.... -- Rob |
degreeoff |
Feb 20 2007, 07:12 PM
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#2
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I like big butts and I can not lie! Group: Members Posts: 1,622 Joined: 9-February 03 From: Booowieeee MD (near DC) Member No.: 275 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I am no expert I only did it once....and that was enough! OK twice. The first time I used a box end wrench with a slot cut in it to pry the bar back and undo the hinge....the second time I actually took the bars off and damn near killed myself I cut the brackets off and stood back.....sheet .....I'll follow this one
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ahdoman |
Feb 20 2007, 07:25 PM
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#3
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It's phonetic...Ah-D-O-Man (Audioman) Group: Members Posts: 667 Joined: 7-November 05 From: Santa Clarita, Ca. Member No.: 5,084 Region Association: Southern California |
Use the JWest trunk pivots (http://www.jwesteng.com/porsche/914/pivot.htm) with the stock arms and the Camp914 rear trunk shock kit (http://www.camp914.com/products.html). You won't be sorry. The fit and finish is how it should have been done at the factory! I watched Joe Sharp use his homemade tool to remove my torsion bars and it made my head hurt watching him pull those things off under tension! Be Careful. You might be able to get him to post a pic of how he made his (he's on the NARP website all the time).
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914Sixer |
Feb 20 2007, 08:43 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 8,897 Joined: 17-January 05 From: San Angelo Texas Member No.: 3,457 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I have the factory tool if you want to borrow it. You pay the postage.
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LowGT |
Feb 20 2007, 09:35 PM
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#5
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1.8 and Proud! Group: Members Posts: 583 Joined: 2-October 05 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 4,904 Region Association: Southwest Region |
I removed them with the unbolt nuts and watch it fly method. The bracket actually stuck in the drywall on the ceiling, and I'm really surprised I didn't lose any fingers or eyes. I do not recommend this method. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)
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swood |
Feb 20 2007, 10:06 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,839 Joined: 6-February 03 From: Strong Beach Member No.: 251 Region Association: None |
I used the leave bolted on and cut with a sawzall method. The shock of the spring un...um..springing might have been what cracked my windshield, but the jury is still out on that one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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boxstr |
Feb 20 2007, 10:37 PM
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#7
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MEMBER:PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGION Group: Members Posts: 7,522 Joined: 25-December 02 From: OREGON Member No.: 12 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I have done a few torsion rod removals.
Easy way is remove the engine lid cover. I would also remove the battery it can get in the way when removing the tension rods. Get a heavy rag or blanket down into the area where the rod when it is sprung loose will come to rest. Then take a long rod or screwdriver and pry sideways on the tension rod, near the nylon roller until it breaks loose and comes to rest. Please note, this is very loud and very dangerous. But once you have done one you will say, hey that was fun wheres the next one. You then remove the 10mm nuts on the brackets and remove the rods. CCLINTENSIONHEADACHE |
Twystd1 |
Feb 21 2007, 02:17 AM
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#8
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You don't want to know... really..... Group: Members Posts: 2,514 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Newport Beach, California Member No.: 2,743 |
I use an Aaron. (It's like a factory TOOL)
I will loan it to you if you pay postage. Postage is about 600 bucks as Aaron weighs over 230LBs soaking wet out of the shower. Twystd1 |
SGB |
Feb 21 2007, 07:15 AM
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#9
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just visiting Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States |
use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up.
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SLITS |
Feb 21 2007, 07:26 AM
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#10
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) #2 method: Wrap rope around T bar setup to keep them from flying, use an angle grinder to cut the stupid things and install rear shock kit from ??????. No more broken hinges. The drawing for making the tool (or a tool) is on Pelican Parts site AFAIR |
cooltimes |
Feb 21 2007, 07:57 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,508 Joined: 18-May 04 Member No.: 2,081 Region Association: None |
use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) #2 method: Wrap rope around T bar setup to keep them from flying, use an angle grinder to cut the stupid things and install rear shock kit from ??????. No more broken hinges. The drawing for making the tool (or a tool) is on Pelican Parts site AFAIR ***** Edited later for reasons of my own. http://members.rennlist.com/mikecool/rickydo1.gif http://members.rennlist.com/mikecool/rickydo2.gif |
Grimstead |
Feb 21 2007, 08:36 AM
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#12
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Cheaky Monkey Group: Members Posts: 835 Joined: 20-March 05 From: Corona, Ca Member No.: 3,789 Region Association: Southern California |
I use an Aaron. over 230LBs soaking wet out of the shower. Twystd1 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) |
type47 |
Feb 21 2007, 08:50 AM
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#13
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
this it?
Attached image(s) |
cooltimes |
Feb 21 2007, 09:03 AM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,508 Joined: 18-May 04 Member No.: 2,081 Region Association: None |
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watsonrx13 |
Feb 21 2007, 06:17 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Thanks to everyone for your recommendations (I'm going to keep the torsion bars) and Mike for the diagram....
Mark, thanks for the offer to borrow yours, you have a PM... -- Rob |
Scott-thundercat |
Feb 21 2007, 10:06 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 159 Joined: 16-October 06 From: Reno, NV Member No.: 7,049 |
QUOTE I removed them with the unbolt nuts and watch it fly method. The bracket actually stuck in the drywall on the ceiling, and I'm really surprised I didn't lose any fingers or eyes. I do not recommend this method. slap.gif yeah i did this too at pick and pull- i damn near broke the tip of my index finger when the last one came loose- it's purple over half way under the nail! man did it sting for about 2 hours and still hurts 2 days later! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif) |
ClayPerrine |
Feb 21 2007, 10:15 PM
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#17
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,498 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
There is a simpler tool that is probably already in your toolbox, and a classic thread that explains how to use it.
Torsion Bar Re-installation Classic Thread Hope it helps. But I would seriously suggest one of the JWest hinge kits. They are far better than the factory ones. |
Brando |
Feb 21 2007, 11:57 PM
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#18
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
My favorite solution...
Take an angle grinder, cut one end of one tortion bar. Stand back, keep your hands away. Then do the other side. Pick up the debris and remove the bolts holding the brackets for the tortion bars. Install a camp 914 Trunk Shox kit for the rear (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) |
highways |
Feb 22 2007, 01:21 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 613 Joined: 18-June 05 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 4,296 |
I made a tool that worked great. I took about 2' of 1" diameter copper pipe. I cut a rectangular notch in it about an inch and a half from the end of the tube. My notch measured 11/16" and passed halfway through the diameter of the tube. Make sure you cut the notch so it fits snug and deeply on the torsion bar- you don't want any slop. In the end it will very much resemble the official tool. Hold the copper pipe on the torsion bar with tension and use a large screw driver to pry the torsion bar free to the side. Rear trunk lid must be removed. As you bring the torsion bar back to rest you have to rotate the copper tube around the axis a bit. I think I used some large vise grips to hold the torsion bar and slip the copper out at the end. Took two minutes to make the tool and two more minutes to get the torsion bar out.
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watsonrx13 |
Mar 5 2007, 07:43 PM
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#20
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
I have the factory tool if you want to borrow it. You pay the postage. I want to publicly thank Mark for the use of his torsion bar tool. It worked very well. I was able to reinstall the torsion bar easily and safely. It is people like Mark that make this the great BBS that it is.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) BTW, I didn't need to remove the engine lid or the rear trunk lid, but I did remove the battery.... -- Rob |
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