Fuse block for red wires from batt, EDIT: 3/06/13. not making kits anymore. Options

[Tom]

EDIT: 3/06/13
I won't be providing these kits any longer. I apologize to the members who have been waiting. Please feel free to use any info in the thread to help you come up with a fuse solution that meets your individual needs. Parts list on last page.
Tom
NEW INFO FOR EARLY CARS. THEY CAME WITH ONLY THREE RED WIRES!! Two 4.0mm and a much larger wire running forward to the dash area. Please check before ordering.
Last round this summer. Maybe next winter I will do this again if there is a demand.
See pics of the new 4-way and 6-way kits, and the completed install of mine. Kits are designed to go on the outer edge of the battery box, however some have mounted elsewhere. If you have need for longer wires so you can mount yours differently, let me know and we can make that work for you.
Also, please see the two pages of info below. You should be able to print copies.
From the supplier: 4/6 individually fused circuits with connections that enter and exit from the bottom allow this fuse block to be mounted in narrow locations. Clear plastic dust cover is included. Max load capacity for all circuits combined is 50 amps, 65 amps for the 6-way. Connections are made using 1/4" female push-on connectors.

I will open round four as I already have 3 folks who want one. There will be two models, a 4-way and a 6-way, and three stages; 1-basic, 2-connections on and soldered, 3 - with new battery connector.
4-way
stage 1- basic kit $25.00
stage 2- connectors on and soldered and harness heat shrinked $30.00
stage 3- With new battery connector $32.00
6-way
stage 1- basic kit $30.00
stage 2- connectors on and soldered and harness heat shrinked $35.00
stage 3- With new battery connector add $37.00
I will leave this open until 5 June, them order parts. It looks from the last round that you can expect about a month to receive the kit. IE: if I order parts by 6 June, the kits will ship no later than 30 June.

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[Tom]

Rich,
Thanks for posting the pics. I have been waiting to see how others would like to make the mounting. I went with the plastic due to the insulating qualities, but don't see why a metal one wouldn't be just as good. Maybe the new kits will include your idea, if that is Ok with you. The plastic is difficult to work with and is more expensive too. I thought of a aluminum piece with a coating might be good. anyone have any better ideas?
Thanks,
Tom

[rwilner]

Rich,
Thanks for posting the pics. I have been waiting to see how others would like to make the mounting. I went with the plastic due to the insulating qualities, but don't see why a metal one wouldn't be just as good. Maybe the new kits will include your idea, if that is Ok with you. The plastic is difficult to work with and is more expensive too. I thought of a aluminum piece with a coating might be good. anyone have any better ideas?
Thanks,
Tom

Tom
Of course you can use any idea I come up with! No need to ask.

My local ace harware carries aluminum and steel bar stock in various widths and thicknesses to experiment with. You can buy larger quantities cheaper from McMaster once you find dimensions you're happy with.

I also considered a piece of angle iron affixed to the front lip of the battery tray, but I had the bar, screws and standoffs lying around, so that's what I used.

I think aluminum is the best material for this -- you could tap the 2 holes to mount the fuse block and eliminate the need for nuts in those locations. I would tap them with the same thread as the engine tin screws -- I think they're M8s. I was going to tap my steel bar but it was too thin (only 1/16").

Because the fuse block is insulated, there's no need for the mounting bar to have insulating qualities. If you wanted it to be non-conductive you could always hit it with some enamel...if you used the car's body color it would look almost factory.

For anyone on the fence...I think this a quick, cheap, and very worthwhile upgrade.