Rear trunk torsion bar removal Options

[watsonrx13]

Does anyone have a link to the posting showing the home-made tool and technique for removing the torsion bars holding the rear trunk?

I need to replace/reweld the trunk hinge bracket. I'm planning to remove the torsion bars, then remove the rest of the old bracket, clean up the old weld and/or any metal missing from the inner fender well, then postion the trunk, with the new bracket attached, and weld the new bracket on.

Any other suggestions, comments, observations, prayers, etc?



BTW, the search function doesn't work too well....

-- Rob

[degreeoff]

I am no expert I only did it once....and that was enough! OK twice. The first time I used a box end wrench with a slot cut in it to pry the bar back and undo the hinge....the second time I actually took the bars off and damn near killed myself I cut the brackets off and stood back.....sheet .....I'll follow this one

[ahdoman]

Use the JWest trunk pivots (http://www.jwesteng.com/porsche/914/pivot.htm) with the stock arms and the Camp914 rear trunk shock kit (http://www.camp914.com/products.html). You won't be sorry. The fit and finish is how it should have been done at the factory! I watched Joe Sharp use his homemade tool to remove my torsion bars and it made my head hurt watching him pull those things off under tension! Be Careful. You might be able to get him to post a pic of how he made his (he's on the NARP website all the time).

[914Sixer]

I have the factory tool if you want to borrow it. You pay the postage.

[LowGT]

I removed them with the unbolt nuts and watch it fly method. The bracket actually stuck in the drywall on the ceiling, and I'm really surprised I didn't lose any fingers or eyes. I do not recommend this method. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)

[swood]

I used the leave bolted on and cut with a sawzall method. The shock of the spring un...um..springing might have been what cracked my windshield, but the jury is still out on that one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[boxstr]

I have done a few torsion rod removals.
Easy way is remove the engine lid cover. I would also remove the battery it can get in the way when removing the tension rods.
Get a heavy rag or blanket down into the area where the rod when it is sprung loose will come to rest.
Then take a long rod or screwdriver and pry sideways on the tension rod, near the nylon roller until it breaks loose and comes to rest.
Please note, this is very loud and very dangerous. But once you have done one you will say, hey that was fun wheres the next one.
You then remove the 10mm nuts on the brackets and remove the rods.
CCLINTENSIONHEADACHE

[Twystd1]

I use an Aaron. (It's like a factory TOOL)

I will loan it to you if you pay postage.

Postage is about 600 bucks as Aaron weighs over 230LBs soaking wet out of the shower.

Twystd1

[SGB]

use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up.

[SLITS]

use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)


#2 method:

Wrap rope around T bar setup to keep them from flying, use an angle grinder to cut the stupid things and install rear shock kit from ??????. No more broken hinges.

The drawing for making the tool (or a tool) is on Pelican Parts site AFAIR

[cooltimes]

use a 10-mm ( I think thats the right size) deep well socket on an extension. Slip the socket down as far as possible on the spring, push down enough to clear the roller, push sideways enough to clear the roller as you slowly let up.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)


#2 method:

Wrap rope around T bar setup to keep them from flying, use an angle grinder to cut the stupid things and install rear shock kit from ??????. No more broken hinges.

The drawing for making the tool (or a tool) is on Pelican Parts site AFAIR

*****
Edited later for reasons of my own.
http://members.rennlist.com/mikecool/rickydo1.gif
http://members.rennlist.com/mikecool/rickydo2.gif

[Grimstead]

I use an Aaron. over 230LBs soaking wet out of the shower.

Twystd1

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[type47]

this it?

[cooltimes]

this it?

That's very like the Porsche factory original but you still have to remove the rear lid to use it.
I think AA and maybe Pelican sells one like that too.

[watsonrx13]

Thanks to everyone for your recommendations (I'm going to keep the torsion bars) and Mike for the diagram....

Mark, thanks for the offer to borrow yours, you have a PM...

-- Rob

[Scott-thundercat]

I removed them with the unbolt nuts and watch it fly method. The bracket actually stuck in the drywall on the ceiling, and I'm really surprised I didn't lose any fingers or eyes. I do not recommend this method. slap.gif

yeah i did this too at pick and pull- i damn near broke the tip of my index finger when the last one came loose- it's purple over half way under the nail! man did it sting for about 2 hours and still hurts 2 days later! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/alfred.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

There is a simpler tool that is probably already in your toolbox, and a classic thread that explains how to use it.

Torsion Bar Re-installation Classic Thread


Hope it helps. But I would seriously suggest one of the JWest hinge kits. They are far better than the factory ones.

[Brando]

My favorite solution...

Take an angle grinder, cut one end of one tortion bar. Stand back, keep your hands away. Then do the other side. Pick up the debris and remove the bolts holding the brackets for the tortion bars.

Install a camp 914 Trunk Shox kit for the rear (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[highways]

I made a tool that worked great. I took about 2' of 1" diameter copper pipe. I cut a rectangular notch in it about an inch and a half from the end of the tube. My notch measured 11/16" and passed halfway through the diameter of the tube. Make sure you cut the notch so it fits snug and deeply on the torsion bar- you don't want any slop. In the end it will very much resemble the official tool. Hold the copper pipe on the torsion bar with tension and use a large screw driver to pry the torsion bar free to the side. Rear trunk lid must be removed. As you bring the torsion bar back to rest you have to rotate the copper tube around the axis a bit. I think I used some large vise grips to hold the torsion bar and slip the copper out at the end. Took two minutes to make the tool and two more minutes to get the torsion bar out.

[watsonrx13]

I have the factory tool if you want to borrow it. You pay the postage.

I want to publicly thank Mark for the use of his torsion bar tool. It worked very well. I was able to reinstall the torsion bar easily and safely.

It is people like Mark that make this the great BBS that it is.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

BTW, I didn't need to remove the engine lid or the rear trunk lid, but I did remove the battery....

-- Rob