Was that a Renegade engine cradle at one time? I haven't actually seen one before. And I wasn't aware you'd done a cable shifter, so guess I'll have to do a search to find out more about it.

By the way, if your Boxter muffler makes your car sound anything like this EZ30R then you've got a winner: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYsZ1-IqS1w

Anything new on the EZ30 project ?

Its up and running. Map is almost done, dyno this weekend.

Here is a video of it running. click for youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abu5jt1SsZE

cool video

I could not imagine how fast i might accidentally drive with 250hp, i get tickets with 90hp

what are the back wheels resting on in that video??

They are my custom jack stands. Solid Metal boxes that I found that I welded the covers onto.

Radiator fans are now individually controlled by ecu. They come on at different temps so no huge draw when they pop on individually.

She's off the Jackstands! Drove her around the block today. Definitely going to do a self autotune for AFR ratio tonight. I know my map is close, but just want to make sure.

Here is my Ethrottle and how i attached it to the stock pedal. Needs major adjustment. Throttle is way too touchy. I lowered the ball snap in point on the pedal so the pedal had more travel, which seems to help a lot.

Now for the fun parts....fine tuning! I knew i should of put back the NON-PUCK clutch pad. This one grabs like a SOB!


Man my camera made everything look rusty, its not its just painted original orange with a little glue residue on the floorboards.

Be careful that clutch will put a lot of shock on the tranny. Maybe it will break in some. Aftermarket clutches can be real hard on trannys. The light car will help a lot. You can move the gas pedal through the motion you want and measure the full motion of the sender and put the ball socket exactly on the pedal where the full motion can be utilized.

I did a lot of tuning/driving this weekend so far. I agree the puck clutch was good for the turbo, because i reached the limit of grabbing power. But with this motor, I am definately putting the standard one back. The puck isnt bad when your moving, just starting up and stopping which is A LOT of the driving for a street car, not comfortable and jerky.

Oh by the way, the boxster muffler sounds awesome and VERY quiet at low rpms, but just like those videos on youtube when revved up, but a little lower growl! so Perfect!

Okay fuel/hp guys. I am running in all safe levels with AFR. (max 14.7) with the WOT at way rich 9.0. (we will set this at the dyno on monday.) Right now, with the seat of my pants driving it feels like my ej20 Turbo motor at about 10lbs of boost. So i estimate around 220 hp at the wheels.

My question is for the fuel/hp dyno guys, how much more hp will i gain when i get this 9.0 AFR richness out. It feels great now, but that is a little rich for a N/A engine at WOT. I was thinking about 12.5/13 at WOT, does this sound right? OF course my dyno guy will tell me monday, just curious now...

Are you using a knock retard on the link? The leaner it gets the more power it will make but the hotter the combustion will be. Which means it's more susceptable to knock on a really hot day. What fuel will you have it tuned to? A good tuner will listen with a device to detect knock while he is tuning. Just getting bad gas can be a serious threat with close to the optimum (lean) afr, turbos are way more critical but keep in mind the fuel you will have available. A stock ej20 turbo with 14 psi is rated at 227 at the crank not the wheels. ej20 wrx is about 180 at the wheels at best stock. A 300 hp 2.5 sti 17psi stock makes about 240-260 at the wheels. A jdm ej20 turbo motor had 9:1 compression where the ej20 US wrx has around 8:1 so the jdm could make more power but the same boost of 14psi is real tricky on US gas. None of this will apply to your motor though as it's not jdm. Be sure the tuner knows you want it safe on the gas you expect to find easily. Actually the timing tuning probably will help as much as the afr tuning. The only way to push the limits for the most power is to use a knock retard ecu though.

You can get use to the clutch.

The link extreme has dual inputs for knock and my motor has that dual knock sensors also. It's kinda cool you can monitor the level of knock while its being dynoed on a pop up window and adjust accordingly if needed. I just haven't gotten into that till Monday at the dyno.

You can probably also set the level of noise it will trigger on then that should be great.

I wouldnt actually tune over 12.5 for WOT...11.5-12.5 is about right, turbo motors like closer to 11.5.

Between 9.0 to 12.5? your probably going to gain another 20-30hp I would think.

Oh and I agree on a full surface clutch.. A strong pressure plate? Yes, Puck clutch? Not on the street, Especially for a v6, just NOT needed in that situation.

I'm definitely glad I converted mine over to the EJ20. Nice smooth running engine and gives it whole different personality. Nice when the turbo spools up and the way it pushes it down the road, plus normal oil changes and filters from Wally World, no valve adjustments, under dash heater and 33 mpg.
I think it may even be faster than that 3.6 converion I had.
I gave like $2,300.00 for the engine with all the accessories with 30,000 miles on it from WRX-TX and Sebastian has exceptional service after the sale.

Case closed!

LK

Ha, I've got you beat! Mine's a Craig's List engine, $600 complete including A/C. That's less than the cost of ONE rebuilt Type 4 2.0 head! Probably last longer too, and I THRASH that thing.

Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed

[/quote]
Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed
[/quote]

You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using.

[quote name='budman5201' date='Jun 20 2010, 04:50 PM' post='1333142']
[/quote]
Same here for the EJ20. I paid a little more for my 2003 EJ20 with all the stuff too and about the same mileage. I have about 25k on my conversion with 0 problems. I wouldn't mind doing the Subaru 6 either but the car is just a hot rod with the EJ20.

Ed
[/quote]

You know the subaru 6 EZ30R will bolt right into your renegade mount with no mods right? Thats what i am using.
[/quote]
I wondered about that. It looked like the motor mounts were identical.
Ed

Map is 90 % there! AFR is right on the money, except for a few more load points that will be set at the dyno in 10 hours!! Excited to see the max HP of this baby. I bet it only comes in about 215/220 at the wheels. We will see....

Right now, smooth as silk driving (except for my puck clutch! taking off in first gear )

6 + hours at the dyno, Had to cut it short. $$$$

If we only had more time, we could of played a little more and got some more out of it....


So far we got 206.2 HP and 175.6 Lbs Torque AT the WHEELS!!


This is also with the restrictive 2006 Porsche 2.7 Boxster stock Muffler. Most of the dyno time took tracing down a misfire problem which turned out to be 2 injector plugs that were not fully grabbing the contacts when you plugged them in. VERY frustrating and $$ consuming.


DYNO SHEET ATTACHED TO THIS POST. (look below)

so....better than a ej20 wrx. Nice!

video video video....gotta have some sound!

Okay tell me what kind of video u want.....drive by or my son taking a video from passenger seat?

Okay horsepower guys....the guys in new Zealand said they can get a few less ponies but their torque was about 40 lbs higher, can u look at my dyno sheets and see anything that would help me pick up more torque? Stock engine but 2.7 liter boxster muffler

Not too shabby by any means!
I'll take a WAG:
1) is the throttle body opening all the way at WOT?
2) funny dip in the torque curve - guessing something is going on with the exhaust? Possibly primary lengths (diameter?) not optimized for cams/headflow/operating range?
3) Maybe too restrictive on the exhaust? Be interesting to see what a free-er flowing muffler would do, and larger exhaust tubing sizes.
4) Also, is the air filter big enough for the required airflow?

I want to hear that thing winging out at 7K rpm!

Jeff

Anything will do...we just want to hear 'er run.
ed

You can lean out your fuel curve 1/2 to 3/4 of a point from 3500-6k. Try getting it to run closer to 12.5.

Asside from that, your muffler might be to restrictive like the others have mentioned. Try simply unbolting it and taking a butt dyno (If you do this, dont lean out your fuel curve....).

Well thats what we thought also, but believe it or not, when we went leaner in those ranges and did a hp pull the hp numbers went down. We then turned around and richened it up and came up with max hp at that AFR.

Okay this is my theory for the next dyno run. I have a K&N huge filter with a 3.0 inch opening also. I'll put that one on. Mine now has a smaller opening and pointing down so i dont have to worry about rain the 3-4 times a year that it hits.

I also am debating using a aftermarket 3.2 Boxster stainless system that I see on ebay. They are about $500 bucks, but i bet i can find one here locally used. Guys are always upgrading their boxsters etc. And the aftermarket ones will bolt right on quick since i brought my exhaust right to the boxster muffler inlets and kept their brackets. A butt dyno without muffler would be WAY too loud for my neighbors, i'll wait for the dyno.


Tonight I'll do a cool video/ sound file but i need my son for it and i am going to wait till later tonight so its not 112 degrees out like it is now. I'll have him on the sidewalk and do a driveby and at least up to 3rd gear full throttle, but thats about it. (already up to 90ish by then)
It does sounds awesome with this muffler at WOT, sorry guys youll have to wait another half a day for it.

Could it be down on power because you're trying to put a German muffler on a Japanese engine... in a German car? And somebody's offended?

Budman, Its not going to be THAT loud.. Your still going to have the exhaust piping to calm it down. Do it at 2pm on a saturday or weekday if you can, Driving at low speeds wont be deffeneing. It'll be loud sure, but you'll be OK.

WOT you'll have to be in the country for though. But you'll be able to get to the country and back without really pissing someone off.. This will tell you if there is something up with that muffler without spending money..


When I did my v8 conversion I used the exhaust that came with it, it had a cat and was pretty small tubing. After swapping that out with a nice dual system I went from about 170hp to ~ 220hp. It was THAT restrictive!

I have never read of or experienced a quiet muffler that will make the same power output as a freeflowing one. Also as you were saying the air input needs to be large enough to match the cfm requirements of a 3.0 not a 2.0. What is the ID of the throttle body?You can see all the way through the exhaust of a high flowing exhaust, it will just be different size expansion chambers to level the highs.

The 180 of the wrx at the wheels was a awd (4wheels driving) power at the wheels that is using another ring and pinion so it would be higher in just a 2wd rwd application as you saw in the 2.0 you had earlier.

The na motor stock is always engineered for more torque down low to give the best normal use mpg and performance. It won't have a big hp and torque number until it has a cam that flows more air and fuel than stock and also usually will rev higher to flow more air. Try to get the tuning stuff from the aussies and disconnect the muffler and see how that goes and then you will have a target to shoot for.

You can save some money by data logging and tuning more yourself. Be sure to monitor the afr if you do try a more open exhaust as Andrew said. Your motor will get a lot more expensive if it needs new pistons.

Better flowing muffler and more tuning with air intake that is 10% bigger than the tb and it should be as good as it can be.

Also I would have to ask my son but I'm pretty sure his afr's are higher that 12.5 for the na part of his tuning. His intake ports flow about 280 cfm at 420. lift on his 2.5, I would bet the 3.0 will flow 240 stock at 380 400 lift.

I don't really see the muffler causing the torque dip at lower rpms.

I used a FLowmaster (for a Camaro - one in two out) for my WRX conversion. It sounds awesome (really deep and throaty and howls when you wind it up), nothing like the Subaru motor normally sounds.

Ed

Cruising Video


oops more suspense, have to load to youtube. mp4 isnt accepted on here.



youtube video!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_aNEWTTgls

MORE Gas pedal!

youtube video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLTLXkQirYM

another with more gas pedal!


youtube video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwGK3EHn4EQ

Cool, sounds just like a Boxster. That's what I expected since the firing order for the two engines are almost the same. Is that the sound you were after?

Yeah i am actually very happy with the sound. future license plate....

73BXSTR

Ha ha! Good one!

So the big question, how is it to drive, compared with the WRX motor? Maybe a little less power/torque right now, but better throttle response?

Yeah throttle response and drivebility are greatly increased. It definitely is not a 4 second to 60 mph car anymore but it still gets there in 5. So very quick. Highway passing is more natural with immediate response and quick. Since this is a 7000 plus rpm motor it is definitely still fun. The stock subaru computer limits it to 6800 which is wierd because top HP wasn't reached to just over 7000 and then started to taper off at the dyno... It seems like the engine that was meant to go in if they did this Porsche again in 2010. Gotta get the puck clutch out of there. That's the only drivebility flaw. Oh and it gets all the performance with pump gas which is very nice. The other one was just too damn tempting to run high boost all the time and that was just a waste of race gas when cruising...

All in all it drives like a new sports car should, If I would closely compare to cars I've rode in.....I would say the 2009 3.2 boxster s, but not with their Cadillac ride quality.