Oh, I got it : you meant on the outside, before inserting the SC wheel hub ?
This will put the rotor in it's right position ?

between the hub and the bearing. Hub centric hubs are 5mm wider where the bearing sits.

I'm sorry but I don't get it. What part are you calling "hub centric hubs" ?

It looks like swayaway is un reachable...
https://swayaway.com/

But this website seems to sell the correct axles :

https://www.racereadyproducts.com/axles/swa...-way-irs-axles/

The hubcentric hubs have a raised area on the hub face that fits inside the wheel itself, virtually locking the wheel to the hub rather than relying on the wheel studs to keep the wheel centered. They're wider where the bearing sits so it needs a 5mm spacer to keep the bearing within the correct placement in the trailing arm. I'm in the middle of this operation now so i snapped some pics for you.Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Thanks, that's much clearer now.

That's the wheel hubs I'm about to purchase, from a 69-73 car I believe.
I guess they'll not need the spacer (the raised part on axle side looks higher than yours).



The SC parts I might use are the 100mm stub-axles.

These are the remainings of the old bearing, you have to remove anyway before you can install the hubs.
BR
Benno

Of course, but I was referring to the raised part underneath the inner bearing part.

Brian@swayaway.com
is the direct email to the owner , he is usually in the machine shop...but answers emails within a day or 2

I gathered all parts for my conversion and will have the 914 axles machined very soon.

One last question : which brake rotors shall I order ?
It looks like the 914/6 rotors are 1mm thicker and 4mm wider in diameter, so shall I have 914/4 disks drilled to 5 holes ?

In both cases, I assume the wheel hubs pictured above will stay at the same depth compared to the trailing arm and caliper. Am I correct here ?

Your rear hubs are 911SC 1974-up. You will need 5 mm spacer on hub before installing hub in to axle bearing. Use the 914-6 rotor and have it machined. It is a direct bolt on. -4 rotor hub screws DO NOT line up.

Yes, that was the plan.


machined to take what out ? 1mm thick out ?



You mean line up with calipers ?

Both disks have the same height though : 79.5mm

The -4 rotor screw holes that hold rotor to the hub are not the same. -6 rotor is a drop on fit. Put the -6 rotor on the hub and see what the how it fits. Some people have reported that no machining was required. You can sand 2 mm off each pad for the thickness of the rotor, that way you may only have to take 1 mm off the diameter. You might be able to use a die grinder and take 1 mm off slot on calipers. If that works, no machining of rotor is required.

When I went 5 lug, I used early 911 hubs, 911T non vented rotors and 914-4 rear calipers. I had to reduce the outer diameter of the 911 rotors by 2mm. That cost me $20 at my local mechanic. Everything else bolted on. Brake pads worked fine as stock.

Machining 914-4 rotors to 5 lug at a machine shop would have cost more.

I get it, thanks guys !


I'll wait for the parts and try them in real.
My machine shop asked 40euros to machine the 914 rear axles (to fit the 944 CV), so I guess a diameter reduction wont cost too much.

What if you could get a 5-lug rear hub that's a direct bolt-on, and uses 914-4 stock axles?

Announcement for part number 914 331 605 5 LUG coming soon!

wonderful but you would still have to have a stock 914/4 rotor drilled to 5 lug....

URO partsman that is an announcement that EVERYONE has been waiting for.

@UROpartsman will you be making new 914 CVs at some point?

Or use 914-6 rotors (5x130) and have a machine shop take 2mm off the diameter, as Eric_Shea and others have mentioned.

Thanks for asking, unfortunately we don't do any CV's and don't have any plans to make them in the future.

I wouldn't even "UN-officially" recommend grinding on a caliper. They are already paper thin in the pad cavity. You definitely don't have enough there to clearance a 914-6 rotor.

As Mark @914Sixer stated -4 hubs and 911/914-6 hubs have different mounting holes. Which mounting configuration (or... could you do both?) Regardless, both rotors would need machining:

914-4 Rotor would need to be machined to 5x130
914-6 Rotor would need 2mm machined off the edge

4 months later counts as "soon", right?
Any ETA/price on these?

These are up on the PMB website from $80 up.
PMB announced it on FB last week.

And a great deal.. now some kick but CVs would be the compliment to these.

He ya go

https://www.pmbperformance.com/914suspensio...SlI5SCxY9pg00Jo

It says good to 150HP which is likely conservative.

I'm going to get a set, I have all the early/alfa front kit, I'm just trying to think of what to do about studs as I have no clue if this car will be narrow body or flairs.

This thread…

Really deserves a standing ovation—and particularly for the post that kicks it off. Now having been down the five-lug route twice on the same car, and thinking about doing it once more after moving from 80 hp downhill in a huricane to 180-200hp, the info here is a great way to get back up to speed.



Would be great to see the first post updated with some of Eric's knowledge gain since then, and with an analysis of 986 brake options, whether front only or front and rear. Pricing has also "evolved" a bit. As nice and period as 930 calipers look, I am having a tough time justifying them over 986 calipers on a 914—particularly with @SirAndy having tried both and preferring the 986 calipers.

But I also wonder if the same logic that puts a 911 M caliper out back with certain front brakes could allow my aluminum Brembo two-piston calipers to be moved to the back with early 911S or even 986 calipers? Or do I just go whole hog and replace my existing PMB system front and rear with 986 gear? I am a fan of a firm pedal and "too much brake" on a street car (within reason, of course).

Nice, was just going to post the're in the europarts catalog, showing in stock.

A pair of the hubs heading my way, scored a pair of 7x17, 9x17 "cup3" twists in the early offset locally a few weeks ago, so its time.
(need to finish the ez36 install in the Vanagon so it doesn't accidentally end up in the 914)

I actually need to verify I still have any 914 axles, as I used one making up some custom length t4 cv'd axles in my squareback with a 003 automatic.
... that rig has 87 944t rear susp, front 928/944T brembos out back on "965" rotors and wilwood 1.25" piston Forged Internal superlites up front currently on steel hats.

Stops like I caught an anchor on a stump wet or dry.
914 would need smaller out back, the square has 35/65 weight distribution so probably ~50/50 at 1g.

CV flanges in ~any size are available, cheap. the machining is trivial, and has been done with a 4 1/2" grinder.
(many factory cv flanges have an offset built in for some reason from what I have seen, its too much/too consistent to just be bad qa)

I always grind the cv ID for clearance when putting the t4 cvs on, rather than violate the much more highly stressed axle. (done it several times, works great, and only requires a die grinder and decent stones.

"911SC Boge – These only came in the later ball joint configuration. "

Hi guy's. Am I reading this right. It appears that this option is strut only. Is that correct? This was under the 3.5. Section. And would a 74' suspension I have, make this an easier install in my 72'. Thanks for your help.

Yes. SC’s used the wedge ball joint so it will switch over if yours are wedge. But check what is actually on your car, don’t assume.

Even if yours uses a pinch bolt ball joint, you just switch to the wedge ball joint. The A arm is the same.

I have the 914/6 struts (Alfa calipers) on my '74, I had to swap in early ball joints.

Thanks much for the info. Is there a spread of years to hunt down for this that have given the least amount of grief. If there is such a thing.

Thanks, sounds like I'll stick with the 72' stuff.

Zims in Bedford Texas offers a service to replace the bottom of the early pinch type ball joint struts so they will work with wedge type ball joints. I did this on the six, and it is great.

Contact @partsguy22 for more info.

Clay

Any 3 1/2” strut will use the later ball joints.
Just remember that you will need 3 1/2” brake calipers, 911 hubs and rotors for the 3 1/2” struts.

Thank you. I've had everything for a dozen years, front and rear to handle the brakes. Bought them off of here. Just need hubs and struts. I was under the impression that to get 3.5" I would need to do the whole front suspension swap. Thanks for making my day guy's.

Can someone please help identify what caliper this is, and also if anyone would know the year of this stunt assembly?

All I know it is a 3.5 bolt pattern bilstein.

Would like to use this set up for a 5 lug conversion on my 74. I am planning to buy new rotor, bearings etc..

Thank you.

Those are 74- Bilsten with 3 1/2" A calipers.

Ok so here is my semi-annual bump & addition to this classic thread.
The interest in converting to, or using 911 rolling gear on the 914 never wanes.
After re-reading this thread (& having a chuckle) it seems the one area that @Eric Shea you left out was the variety of front hubs of different dimension that are available.

Click to view attachment

In many cases when folks choose this path they are also adding flares so there may be less need to scrutinize wheel to fender fitment, but what about when keeping an narrow body car?
Is there a matrix when using OE Porsche Fuchs, ATS ect. wheels in combination with the proper size hubs to allow the optimal tire to fender clearance?

Click to view attachment

I just posted this in another thread, but might be good to have it here with your hub info!

Click to view attachment

Nice info @914werke , my conversion was done when I bought the car, but I never knew what parts were used. Maybe I can figure that out now.

@mgarrison , I have seen that chart before. I have wondered if the 951 and 911 7 inch wheels have the same dims since they are not on the chart.

The 951 wheels have a different back spacing from the 911 wheels. The 951 wheels fit on a 914 better than the 911 wheels because of the backspacing.

here is a updated chart for narrow body fitment options

To make it more confusing there are early & late versions:
so 951. from the 944
Early ->1986 had an offset of 23.3 mm
Late 87-> had an 52.3 mm offset (for ABS )

Clay,

You have said to me at Red Rocks last year that a 951 wheel fits a non-flared car. When I look at my 951 7in wheels next to a 911 7in wheel they look the same to me and I have measured them on the ground with a tape measure siting side by side. Some people say they fit big brakes. Can you bring some (Clay clarity) for us on this matter

Owner of 2 -951 7s and 4 951 8s--- in 16inches


Thanks,


Bob B

It's the 7s I was asking about. I see the 8s listed, I never see the info on the 7s. My car has 7s and 8s in the 951 on a narrow body.

Bob,

I have the 951 7s on the front of my car. I have never tried them on a non-flared car. I know the offset is different, but I am not sure on the numbers.

I am going to take a front wheel off my big six and put it on the factory six just to see if it will clear. I will post pictures later tonight.

Clay