QUOTE(Britain Smith @ Feb 2 2011, 02:18 PM) 
Holy Crap...I see something on the floor in your shop
-Britain
Full Version: Tubeframe 914
Holy Crap...I see something on the floor in your shop
-Britain
QUOTE(Britain Smith @ Feb 2 2011, 11:18 PM)
Holy Crap...I see something on the floor in your shop
-Britain
Damn....you caught me.....
QUOTE(Krieger @ Feb 3 2011, 02:31 AM)
Were you standing on the ladder for the 3rd shot or something solid?
There's an attic there.....always a nice pic from above...
QUOTE(stewteral @ Feb 3 2011, 03:39 AM)
QUOTE(Hontec @ Jan 16 2011, 02:05 PM)
QUOTE
Are you going wide?? I for one one love to see this as a narrow car... I think it's more muscular with the right amout of rubber under the arches...
Yes, I'm going wide......to which extend , I'm not sure yet..... GT. GT+ or Sheridan..
Hi Randall,
I just had to add my admiration for your welding, engineering skills and Craftsmanship!
Your work is so good that you could work at any race shop in the world!
After seeing all the incredible work you did on your 914, I have been wondering where you learned your impressive skills and what type of work you do for a living. I have not been able to produce the level of work I was proud of until I was in my 50's, but you are still under 40 and so skilled!
Just my Opinion: the 914 is a tightly designed package engineered around a very Low Cg drive-train, mid-engine and rear wheel drive. To try to make it 4-wheel drive would simply take the car too far-afield of its origin. With the car's Low Polar Moment of Inertia, even 4-wheel drive would probably NOT help its "Bad manners" in the wet. Of course, Holland is WET a great deal of the time. (With my Chevy-V8 power, when it rains here in California, I won't even CONSIDER taking the car out, after the 75 MPH "tank-slapper" experience next to a BIG diesel rig in the rain, on a bridge, a couple years back.)
So I APPLAUD going to a TUBE-Frame with your 914 and suggest trying another car for 4-wheel drive fun. The Audi A4-S4 is a pretty impressive package to look at.
PLEASE keep all those GREAT photos coming! I learn from all your good work,
Best,
Terry
Thank you for the compliment!
I started working on cars in my uncle's garage from age 10 in the holidays, so I've been wrenching now for 27 years
He taught me welding as well, gave me a welder and an old Mercedes and told me to replace the bottom......and from there it went wrong........never stopped again.....I love to weld!
The 4wd 914 idea I have to abandon, I fear I'm going to hit a wall when it comes to the paperwork/burocracy here....I tried, but I have gotten no coöperation or even someone that will listen.... So unfortunately I give up...
I'm keeping it RWD but with a sequential transmission...
Ow and my daily job is flying a Boeing 747..I did have a company where we built race/rally cars and even built Dakar cars but I quit, having my own company is not something I enjoyed.
Thanks and best regards
Randall
Randall
will you build a full tube frame or a part tube frame like
the "Anklebiter" build?
I love your work
will you build a full tube frame or a part tube frame like
the "Anklebiter" build?
I love your work
QUOTE(DEC @ Feb 3 2011, 04:23 PM)
Randall
will you build a full tube frame or a part tube frame like
the "Anklebiter" build?
I love your work
Hello Wilco,
I first want to take off the fenders, have it mediablasted and then remove the complete inside. Then I will start to tubeframe it. Since I would like to make the suspension a double wishbone, I will re-design the complete rear. If possible, I would like to keep the stock inner fenders, but I think they will go in the end.
That all depends on what type of fenders I will re-install.. as of now, I will have them made in dry carbon.
But first of all we'll start stripping and see where we go from there....
So many ideas...........
Finally found time today to start work on the right-side door jig. Will probably finish it tomorrow, then a few small things to add to the jig and then we can start the actual work on the chassis....yeah!!! can't wait.
Unbelievable welding work and body bracing. 
Make this in 2 or 3 parts with a pin to connect the parts, and you'll probably sell all the body shops and some members. Best I've seen on rebuild posts.
Make this in 2 or 3 parts with a pin to connect the parts, and you'll probably sell all the body shops and some members. Best I've seen on rebuild posts.
QUOTE(bandjoey @ Feb 8 2011, 08:08 PM)
Unbelievable welding work and body bracing.
Make this in 2 or 3 parts with a pin to connect the parts, and you'll probably sell all the body shops and some members. Best I've seen on rebuild posts.Thanks! but to be honest, one jig for now is enough....
this was an inmense job and not to mention if I add up all steel and materials.....a pretty expensive one....I've already had offers for this thing, but I'm quite sure I'm going to need this for a while...
Also sent my fuel gauge to BigMark, this is what it's going to become, except the silver center button...that's deleted.
I am so in love with this thing, absolute art:
I am so in love with this thing, absolute art:
Man that's an impressive jig! I really enjoy seeing other peoples projects that involve this level of fab work. Keep up the great work.
You, Sir, beyond an Artist!
Never fails to amaze me your level of perfection.
And so simple.
Thanks for taking the time to show us your progress!
Thanks guys for all the positive reactions! Hope you guys are not getting sick of all the pictures, I'm also taking them as reference for the rebuild.
Today I finished the right door jig. I had forgotten how much work it was to build one.....but it's done.....
Also since the jig is done and I can start actual work on the chassis, I started pulling it apart to take to the powdercoater.
Today I finished the right door jig. I had forgotten how much work it was to build one.....but it's done.....
Also since the jig is done and I can start actual work on the chassis, I started pulling it apart to take to the powdercoater.
Off the hook!
QUOTE
Hope you guys are not getting sick of all the pictures,
Ummmmmm....... no. Can you post more pictures please.
Powdercoating is really thick. Are you concerned about that added thickness affecting how your jigs fit? I would think plating would be preferable because of that.
QUOTE(Hontec @ Feb 8 2011, 03:22 PM)
Also sent my fuel gauge to BigMark, this is what it's going to become, except the silver center button...that's deleted.
I am so in love with this thing, absolute art:
You will be Very Happy with the results !
QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 9 2011, 07:08 PM)
QUOTE
Hope you guys are not getting sick of all the pictures,
Ummmmmm....... no. Can you post more pictures please.
Powdercoating is really thick. Are you concerned about that added thickness affecting how your jigs fit? I would think plating would be preferable because of that.
In anticipation of that I overdrilled the holes in the jig 0,5mm.
I know the coating guy very well, I will ask him to coat a thin layer with a limited amount of microns.
To be honest, when I put her on and measured I already had a few mm of difference in the chassis, compared to the modern race car next to it, it's nothing.
My other reasoning is that the only difference it will create is a few microns of coating, I've had so many things coated with this guy, from chassis to engine parts and never had fitting issues before...
If I incorporate the difference in each direction, I will still be ok, chassiswise...
And if there is really no other way, I'll blank the contact patches and primer them lightly...
Then again; how many microns of material get lost with the blasting? (purely scientifically?)
Today I removed the right rear Fender and right door sill. Actually not bad what was beneath, the Hellhole repair can be seen very well and it's going to be replaced by a new part.
Somebody had a good old party with filler, the rear corner and the part over the vent hole were completely filled up by this stuff and luckily no water had caught underneath so the steel below is free of rust.. Also the sail panel is in excellent condition, only some minor surface rust on the little sill on there..
Although it looked grimm, when I cleaned it up a little it was actually pretty good...
pics:
Somebody had a good old party with filler, the rear corner and the part over the vent hole were completely filled up by this stuff and luckily no water had caught underneath so the steel below is free of rust.. Also the sail panel is in excellent condition, only some minor surface rust on the little sill on there..
Although it looked grimm, when I cleaned it up a little it was actually pretty good...
pics:
Nice, how long did it take you to drill out all the welds? Removing the whole quarter panel seems much cleaner then slicing the quarter just to get at the long area.
QUOTE(sawtooth @ Feb 10 2011, 10:22 PM)
Nice, how long did it take you to drill out all the welds? Removing the whole quarter panel seems much cleaner then slicing the quarter just to get at the long area.
It took me 4-1/2 hours to do this including the doorsill... I'm glad i took the whole fender off instead of cutting a piece out...Now everything is easily accesible for welding.
You are not normal...but in a great way!
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Feb 10 2011, 11:48 PM)
You are not normal...but in a great way!
Whahaha thanks, come to think of it: ....that's what my wife says too.....
very little rust! you must be a happy man 
Wow deja vu with the fender removal - not too many people willing to get into that madness .
It is weird that must have changed how the striker plate mounts - mine was attached to the door jam itself where yours is attached to that bracket that is attached to the inner fender.
You can see my version of the right rear fender removal on my build thread
deja vu
I've been following your thread, truly inspiring. The last post currently, last picture in my thread I was thinking of you as I took it, Hontec. -I had to climb up a ladder and hold my camera up to the ceiling as I don't have a loft
ode to hontec
.It is weird that must have changed how the striker plate mounts - mine was attached to the door jam itself where yours is attached to that bracket that is attached to the inner fender.
You can see my version of the right rear fender removal on my build thread
deja vu
I've been following your thread, truly inspiring. The last post currently, last picture in my thread I was thinking of you as I took it, Hontec. -I had to climb up a ladder and hold my camera up to the ceiling as I don't have a loft
ode to hontec
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Feb 9 2011, 10:00 AM)
Off the hook!
QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 9 2011, 07:08 PM)
Powdercoating is really thick. Are you concerned about that added thickness affecting how your jigs fit? I would think plating would be preferable because of that.
Problem solved: normally they blast, then coat a primer and then coat a color. For these kind of things they only blast and put on a very thin coat to keep it from rusting again.....
So minimal thickness added....
Amazing work as usual, you just got me motivated to get some work done on mine today!
QUOTE(plymouth37 @ Feb 11 2011, 04:05 PM)
Amazing work as usual, you just got me motivated to get some work done on mine today!
Thanks man, that's the same effect your work has on my motivation!
So, picked up work again today on the front right fender. When I started within the first few minutes I discovered that the fender had suffered an accident once upon a time and the fender was repaired by using bad welds and lots of bondo......
That thing is never getting back on, so decided to sacrifice it......
At first glance rust appeared again but with a bit of cleaning it was turned into perfect metal and not in need of repair...
That thing is never getting back on, so decided to sacrifice it......
At first glance rust appeared again but with a bit of cleaning it was turned into perfect metal and not in need of repair...
Wow!
If anyone ever asks me how these cars are put together, I'm just going to point them to this thread and these amazing pictures...
--DD
If anyone ever asks me how these cars are put together, I'm just going to point them to this thread and these amazing pictures...
--DD
Where did you get those wheels for the table?
Are they adjustable in very small degrees to level it on an uneven floor?
Rich
Are they adjustable in very small degrees to level it on an uneven floor?
Rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 11 2011, 08:33 PM)
Where did you get those wheels for the table?
Are they adjustable in very small degrees to level it on an uneven floor?
Rich
they are standard front wheels as used on trailers over here, they can be adjusted about 8 inches in height
nice! It looks relatively good in there. Mine was seriously nasty. 
link to pic (not for the faint of heart)
Any sort of plan on what metal you'll put back in there? ... I'm a bit stumped on that part myself
link to pic (not for the faint of heart)
Any sort of plan on what metal you'll put back in there? ... I'm a bit stumped on that part myself
QUOTE(nathansnathan @ Feb 11 2011, 09:26 PM)
nice! It looks relatively good in there. Mine was seriously nasty.
link to pic (not for the faint of heart)
Any sort of plan on what metal you'll put back in there? ... I'm a bit stumped on that part myself
Wow! yours looks quite bad compared to mine!
Put metal back? Fender wise? Mmmmm I'm going to use fiberglass complete fenders Gt width and have them made in dry carbon..
that sounds like a good plan. [gross understatement]
WOW, best hour I've spent in a long time.
Truley amazing work.
Based on the quality of your work, I'd fly to the North Pole in a Paper Airplane with you.
FYI - You don't have OCD, if you did it would be CDO - That's alphabetical.
Smitty
Truley amazing work.
Based on the quality of your work, I'd fly to the North Pole in a Paper Airplane with you.
FYI - You don't have OCD, if you did it would be CDO - That's alphabetical.
Smitty
QUOTE(Smitty911 @ Feb 12 2011, 08:37 AM)
WOW, best hour I've spent in a long time.
Truley amazing work.
Based on the quality of your work, I'd fly to the North Pole in a Paper Airplane with you.
FYI - You don't have OCD, if you did it would be CDO - That's alphabetical.
Smitty
Thanks for the compliments and confidence! Lol about the CDO....
Good Sir, you have re-defined insanity.
I completely approve. Amazing craftsmanship. Keep up the good work and the pics.
If you are married, your wife should be sainted for putting up with your new obsession.
I completely approve. Amazing craftsmanship. Keep up the good work and the pics.
If you are married, your wife should be sainted for putting up with your new obsession.
QUOTE(ottox914 @ Feb 12 2011, 05:42 PM)
Good Sir, you have re-defined insanity.
I completely approve. Amazing craftsmanship. Keep up the good work and the pics.
If you are married, your wife should be sainted for putting up with your new obsession.
Thanks! gave my wife a horse....that levels it out pretty much timewise.....
Amazing stuff.
Those pics of the fender-cowl area are the best I've seen. I've been struggling to figure out exactly how the pieces fit together there as I repair mine (I'll be using metal).
Those pics of the fender-cowl area are the best I've seen. I've been struggling to figure out exactly how the pieces fit together there as I repair mine (I'll be using metal).
Gradually getting things back in batches from the powdercoater, just 2 more fixtures and the main bed of the jig and it's completely protected from the elements:
Also had some hubs ,discs and stubaxles mediablasted:
I am now building the new hubs for the rear to enable the car to have double wishbone suspension, almost have all the parts machined and cut and ready to be welded together.
When that's done, I will have the car chemically stripped and I will build a jig to be able to make and position my double A-arms in the rear. This main frame will run from front to aft, making it my new full flat bottom and making it one hell of a strong chassis...
Also had some hubs ,discs and stubaxles mediablasted:
I am now building the new hubs for the rear to enable the car to have double wishbone suspension, almost have all the parts machined and cut and ready to be welded together.
When that's done, I will have the car chemically stripped and I will build a jig to be able to make and position my double A-arms in the rear. This main frame will run from front to aft, making it my new full flat bottom and making it one hell of a strong chassis...
Have been to busy working on my house and not finding time to work on the 914.
But yesterday something came in the mail that Iwas really looking forward to getting, well the wait was worthwile, it's a beauty!!
But yesterday something came in the mail that Iwas really looking forward to getting, well the wait was worthwile, it's a beauty!!
Excellent work as usual and a nice quad gauge too...can I ask where you got that from please?
QUOTE(nsr-jamie @ Mar 22 2011, 04:14 PM)
Excellent work as usual and a nice quad gauge too...can I ask where you got that from please?
New Vintage, bigmarks design...
Excellent service!!!
too cool
QUOTE(Hontec @ Mar 22 2011, 11:07 AM)
QUOTE(nsr-jamie @ Mar 22 2011, 04:14 PM)
Excellent work as usual and a nice quad gauge too...can I ask where you got that from please?
New Vintage, bigmarks design...
Excellent service!!!
Great choice! The gauge looks nice!
That surface really shouldn't be powdercoated, IMHO. It's machined bare steel from the factory.
QUOTE
That surface really shouldn't be powdercoated
What do you think the consequences would be? (serious question)
QUOTE(McMark @ Mar 22 2011, 06:25 PM)
That surface really shouldn't be powdercoated, IMHO. It's machined bare steel from the factory.
We're talking about microns here, in my humble opinion it's negligable...
I've machined these hubs down to being perfectly round (in order to try and make new hubs for independent suspension) , trust me, in those days they didn't take tolerances to higher levels...man these were way off... not level, and not round. I ended up using a conus to press the hub onto the lathe, to try and make it as round and centered as possible.
Thus my conclusion is: it won't matter at all..
Worst case scenario is probably insignificant potential movement of the bearing. The bearing bore has a certain depth which corresponds to the dimension of the bearing. The depth has now changed slightly.
I guess I just tend to feel that if the porsche factory took the time to mask that section before paint or machine it only after it was painted, there is a reason for that. I can't honestly claim that it's bad to coat that area, but IMHO it shouldn't be coated. I guess I'm kind of splitting hairs.
I guess I just tend to feel that if the porsche factory took the time to mask that section before paint or machine it only after it was painted, there is a reason for that. I can't honestly claim that it's bad to coat that area, but IMHO it shouldn't be coated. I guess I'm kind of splitting hairs.
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