Try calling a bodyshop that mixes there own paint, they could probably do better than a supplier can.

Thats who im dealing with, A bodyshop that mixes their own paint. They dont have the mix ratio, nor does anyone else. That little batch they gave me was a test sample.

Update with a toner list. Hope it helps.

This is ppg dbc bc/cc 8 oz.

D777 187.0 Transparent Green
D794 52.5 Verdant Yellow
D753 40.9 White
D780 3.4 Brilliant Yellow

Awesome! Thanks!!

Andrew

Thanks!!!

Andrew, do you think they will be able to make this?

They cant make it in their non water based product line because the toner strength they use is different than PPG. However he is checking now to see if he can cross refference these toners to try and make a match...


He is mixing up a 4oz sample of what he can figure out from the above. I'll spray it tonight and compare it to the other green.

Paint shop couldn't figure it out. Went to the more expensive paint shop and they were able to do it. I'll pick up the paint on Friday.


Spent 3 hour tonight.

Guide coat, sand, guide coat sand, sand, sand. Went over the car in detail and fixed a bunch of little things that could have been overlooked. Laid a bunch of guide coat and sanded lots of little areas. Still have to do under the targa bar, but that's it. Then it's 320 (the shop was out, yay...).

Also prepped the jambs, removed the thresholds and cleaned some surface rust, removed the door strikes, taped off the factory stickers, ect.

nice job Andrew!! I also had another thought about the paint. I know that they already found the color, which is great, but like we talked about the color might be *slightly* off due to converting it from waterborn to urethane single stage. What about giving them the 1977 turbo signal green? L62Y this (i assume because it was 30 years ago) might get us closer to the actual signal green??



just spit-balling here. let me know...


so, all thats left is sanding the entire car down with 320 and then were ready for paint??



keep it up!

and prep under the targa.

I tried that color first and they couldn't find it. I'm pretty sure it's going to be really close. Again I'll look at the color beforehand. I have a really good idea now of what the color looks like in person.

And yes, 320 then jambs and targa bar. Well take the doors off and paint the underside of those at the same time and the underside of the trunks if you want that done.

ahhhhh.... can't beleive we are almost there!

Are you still thinking about next weekend for paint? Or this weekend?

It seems like you knocked almost everything off that list last night. Awesome!

If we had Saturday, no problem. But we don't and I don't want to spray under the targa bar the same day as the body. However this test paint dried pretty fast. You might be able to take the car home after a day.

sounds good.

being able to take it home after a day or two would be great!

if you think we could knock out spraying under the targa bar and prepping the garage for paint in a couple hours, i could come tomorrow evening.

no worries if not, im just so excited!!!

almost ready for

Well we still have to block sand the car in 320 grit and that'll take a couple of hours so I dont think we can get the garage ready for paint after that. However if you want to come by early on sunday we could get a full day in, prep the garage, spray the pre area's mentioned and do our best for getting the garage prepped. Then next saturday we could spray it in the morning and you can take it home on sunday assuming the paint is hard enough.

How are you coming on your duty's? That engine lid is of primary concern as we will want to spray the underside of it on Sunday.

sounds good andrew.

I finished sanding the one bumper that I bondo'd at your house and added bondo to the rear valence.

My girlfriend is now in Oregon for 6 weeks so I have the entire weekend to myself.

I am planning on putting a long day in on saturday and finishing all of the panels. So everything should be ready to bring back to you on sunday. Ill make sure to do the engine lid first if I can't get to all of the other panels by saturday night. I think I am also going to take the front valence down to metal. I have a feeling that just putting bondo in that one section wont be good enough.

I will be sure to bring the plastic for the paint booth too. I think I will have most of what we will need.

Did we find a place to get matte black?

-Peter

We can get the flat clear from the shop and throw it on some of the black that I have. I probably only need like 8 ounces of my black paint.

Probably a good idea to take that valence down to metal. Just realize that it needs a lot of work.

Did some cleaning and organizing.


Blue gun = primer sealer gun

Silver gun = Paint gun

Materials bought

I see ya bought Nason single Stage...

A little advice from a painter.... with the hot weather, do alot of light coats. If you pound that stuff on thick it will solvent pop really bay, I'm talking like, 1 light coat, wait 10-15 minutes.... and get as many fans running in that garage as you can, the higher airflow will eliminate solvent pop along with an extended flash time between coats....

and good luck bro!!!

-Matt

Good advice! We will be spraying the body probably closer to 10am next saturday. It will probably be mid 70's. However if we prep next friday and can spray @ 8am, then Im going to shoot for that as it will be probably 5-10 deg cooler.

Tomorrow will be a test day, spraying the jambs and under the targa bar. If we need to make any adjustments to flash time or anything we'll find out then.




When I sprayed my car I used cheaper quality paint and I only had 1 sovent pop

8 hours in today.

Car is block sanded and 99% ready for paint. We have to clean the gutters out to make sure no crap flied up while spraying like what happened in my car .


Sprayed under the trunks and engine lid, the jams, and under the targa bar.


The targa bar was a PITA and some of it came out dry. I'll be respraying this this week with my touch up gun.

Rest of it came out clean. Really wish I did the jambs for my car

The color is amazing and is the correct color no doubt.

However getting the 914's both in the garage was a little bit of a task... But I managed.

Great Job Andy, I am planing on painting my jambs Thursday and full paint Saturday.

You are almost there. What's next?

the pictures do not do this paint justice. The difference between sunlight and shade is immense.

As far as what is next...

I'll do my best to create a list:

- prep/clean garage... and then clean it again.
- air blow car to get rid of all surface dust
- prep car
- de-grease car x2


Then primer base, and then paint it.


That is for the car; for the bumpers...

I think they are mostly done except the front valence which needs a little lovin' then matte black paint.

Im sure I forgot a few things, but that is a general idea.

Today was full of anguish...


For those of you following along at home, there is a lesson to be learned. Harbor freight 1.4 spray guns do not do a good job at primer. They do an OK job at paint, but your money is well spent on a $100 dollar paint gun vs a $15 paint gun.

I was going to do a wet/wet with the sealer and paint on the engine lid and the doors today. However here are the issues I had in order.


1. I mixed up my spare hardner for my spare reducer when mixing the first batch of primer. Primer was ruined.

2. I mixed up to much harder in my second batch of primer (Doing a small quantity its hard to eyeball it in the larger cups that I had). Primer hardened as I was straining it in the gun aka it hardened in the gun as well. 30 minutes to clean out the damn gun.

3. I learned that the Harbor freight gun really is what has been causing my dry mist issue that I have been having on the car this whole time. As I was laying down the primer on the first door and seeing how dry the overspray was coming out, I decided to thin out the primer a tad bit, then proceed to use my good gun. HOLY CRAP! I forgot how much of a difference there was!! This gun immediately solved all my problems and laid out the primer perfectly.
However in my hurry to try and get door clean of the dust from the adjacent door spray I cleaned the door with wax/grease remover and didnt wipe it down with a dry towel afterwards. Thus creating a not so good layer of primer.



So, End of the day. Tomorrow I am going to sand down the primer sealer I just laid to 320 grit and proceed to laying color on those area's.

This is why we do test samples..

Sigh... At least I learned something...

Glad you got it all figured out andrew. I'm sure it was frustrating but we can all relate to those evenings in the garage where nothing goes right.

keep at it! looking forward to this weekend.

Last night I sprayed the engine lid, doors, and inside the targa sails.

Everything went off pretty much without a hitch. One thing to note is the top coat smoothed out really well however it looks like it has tiny dust particles or it evaporated quickly. I think this might have been because I left the fans running all night but I am not worried at all it looks really nice and will wet sand to a really nice finish.

5 coats.

Unless you have too much draw the fans had nothing to do with it drying to quickly. You are more likely to have issues without fans than you are with. As the paint dries, the solvents rise to the surface and nee airflow to be carried away from the paint. Without that airflow you get solvent poping. Most likely what you have are small dust particles, a good wet sanding will knock them out. Again, you get what you pay for in this business, hence the 15.00 paint gun experience. Next time buy a small mixing cup, or a measuring stick, it's only a couple bucks and it makes mixing small amounts much easier

nice andrew!

What are we going to do about the bumpers? Are you thinking rattle can or the flat black from home depot?

Scotty, great advice! I didnt notice any solevent pop and it really look like its just small dirt particles. Im pretty sure itll polish out really nice! I think ill give it a try on monday before Peter takes it home.


Peter, its totally up to you, i think either will work just fine. If you want we can try the home depot stuff the. If that doesnt work topcoat it with rattlecan.

yea, that sounds good. We will probably get a better, even coat out of the spray gun. so lets try the home depot stuff. do you wanna shoot it the same day as the car? I thought we were going to shoot it a different day?

also, i think on friday night i want to acetone the engine bay and spray with rattle can or green (still debating). But I dont wan't to leave it as is. we can figure it out.

Tested the engine lid with a wet sand and polish. Tiny holes were still there.

Wet sanded more, and the holes were more pronounced. Looked over the jambs and the rest of the car and there are these little holes all through it.

Im pissed. Nothing is going right in this final stage. I am going to take the engine lid to my material supplier and show them what their paint is doing. This is totally unacceptable. My paint was well more than 1/2 what I had to buy this paint for and I never had a single problem with the actual material.

15-20 minute flash time @ 75-80 deg. Pressure @ 35-40psi on the gun, Perfect pattern, 50% overlay, Mixed exactly per specs. Very little dust in the air at all (actually was really nice...).
Sigh.
Im going to grab a beer now..

Oh I forgot to mention, Tomorrow I will spray the engine lid again (If the materials do NOT turn out the be the problem) and make any changes I can think of. If this does not turn out, we are NOT spraying the car until I get this resolved.

Sounds like solvent pop. What temp reducer are you using?

Phillip

You can bitch at your supplier all you want, but the chance of the paint being the problem are slim to none. There is no reason for the paint itself to leave " holes" in the finish. You're using the wrong temp hardener, reducer or don't have enough airflow, or are applying coats too quickly.

What gun are you using ? You are shooting at 35-40 psi which is WAY too high for a HVLP. 35-40 is conventional gun pressure, you should have no more than 20 with a HVLP

Im pretty sure its medium temp. The paint store didnt even ask me what I wanted.

Its a Huffy HDS590

No more than 20ps? Were talking at the regulator right? I think thats to low, im reading closer to 25psi right now. I sprayed my car at 30-35 iirc and it liked it much better when I was spraying at higher psi. My gun says 40psi max on the side of the gun. I think your right this could definitely be my problem. I will test spray tonight with all the recommendations I can get to see if I can fix these issues.

Thanks all!!!

Andrew

Andrew,

If you can get a photo the blemishes we can try and help.

My camera's batteries were dead. I was charging them last night. Photos in a sec.

The worst photo is where I wet sanded down quite a bit. Probably through a layer and a half. The other area is a typical surface wet sand.

Awesome color. It does look like solvent pop. May need a higher temp reducer as a 1st step.


Phillip

Now this was sprayed at 75-80 (Might have been 85 deg.. but that would have been on the first coat).


We still plan to spray tomorrow starting @ 9am. I can move that around however I want. I anticipate it taking 3 hours to actually spray and an hour to prep.

Here are the temps through the day.
7=64
8=67
9=71
10=75
11=80
12=82
1=85
2=88

My thoughts are to go to the paint store and swap out my full medium reducer for a high temp reducer.

If we start at 9, Spray at 10 and I use the high temp reducer then I will be in the high temp range throught the day, right? Or should I start out with the medium reducer and then go to the high temp reducer @ 11 or when the garage gets over say 78 deg?

I'd go with a medium reducer in the base and a slow hardener in the clear. If you reduce the clear, the medium will be fine, the hardener is what makes the real difference. Using the slow hardener will also allow the paint more time to flow out, you just need to adjust how soon you apply additional coats. 20 psi at the gun, the HVLP guns are designed to drop pressure internally so the 20 will get cut own to around 16 at the cap. Too much pressure will force air past the reduction points and you will get to much at the tip. It also has the potential to blow out seals with too much pressure.

we are using a single stage urythane. So, still a medium reducer?

it sounds like pressure in the gun and time between coats might be the problem?

Scotty,

Single stage.

The gun says 40PSI max. So I set the gun at full pressure on the compressor to 39psi. Then as the compressor lowers the tank it goes down to about 36 or so.
I spoke with my paint supplier and he showed me another gun that said 29psi max and he said for that gun he suggested 25psi. And that the gun pressure depends on the gun. He suggested 35psi on the gun. He also gave me slow reducer in exchange for the Medium as he thinks that that is the problem, and suggested I wait a longer flash.
He said solvent pop is typically a lot bigger.

They only have one stage of hardner.


Also He had never seen this issue before either and basically said to make sure the gun is clean (which is was), and spray the test pannel with the slow reducer. 2 mist coats then 2 medium coats (which is what I did). Then if the problem is still there bring the test panel in with the paint, and their spray expert will test the materials and give me advice, Or if there is still a problem then they will replace the paint.

I am on pin and needles, I have my boot set up. I was going to spray in the morning, but due to wheater change I will around 6, today. with all these issues, imagine me as a novice...

Paul, what temp are you spraying in?

This is why you do test pannels

The engine lid is a great test panel. If that goes on without a hitch and looks good the next day then keep on spraying!

It is 80 sunny right now @ 4pm, planning on doing it around 6:30 by then it should be arround 70-75 tops

What brand paint are you using ? Everything I have always used single stage or two stage had various hardeners for differing conditions. IMHO 80 and up should use a slow hardener. Alot of painting is also feel, I shoot differently then everyone I have ever worked for. I run 20 psi into my gun and tend to over-reduce my paints. It lays down slicker for me. Other guys would run the hell out of it the way I mix. Just remember, the manufacturers mixing recommendation is just that...a recommendation. Ina 78 deg, zero humidity, perfectly clean booth that is what works best. In the real world things must be adjusted. I change the way I mix based on temp, humidity, and even the way I feel that day

Scotty I dont't want to highjack Andy's thread, but biefly, I am using a single stage. here is a link of my thread. I will post the paint info there.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=132582&hl=

Scotty, See the pic. I dont have the actual paint on me so I cant check.

And I agree with you on on painting by feel. I am definitely still getting the feel of it.

Paul is using TCP global out of LA

Paul, 70-75 and you have the Med reducer right? You should be golden.

Yes, Thats what I have.

Slow reducer, 25psi, 20 minutes+ flash time, Same shit (less of it... but its still there).


Going to bring the panel into the paint store when peter gets here.

I sprayed a bumper with some black paint I have and so far no issues. Same setup but different paint, reducer, hardner.