Damn you guys, now I want a v8 conversion. Looks like a great project.

Well the 2.0 engine is gone now.

$700 is in my hands, and I've met a great 914 guy

Thanks Doug Wright, it was fun!

So my engine bay is a little empty. I'll be workin on the radiator setup.

Andrew

The heads where magnifluxed and checked for cracks, Said to be good, though the seats werent perfect, although runable. 70 bucks and I have basically perfect heads...

I think I'll do it.

Dads saying that he thinks we should destroke it... So that it revs higher.. and less tq.

Anyone else have an idea? how much higher will it rev? Given a high revving cam, and a performer rpm or such intake? Roller rockers are on the wishlist (christmas or something)


Andrew

Andrew, I loved reading this post, keep it up. You seem to have a lot of surrogate fathers helping you, take advantage of this brain trust. You are very fortunate to have this help and keep up your humor it makes me smile.


Neal

Thanks neal.

Alright guys I've been thinking (oh no... RUN! HE'S GOT A WELDER IN HIS HANDS, RUUUUUN!)

I've been thinking about chassi (hmm *checks word's spell check*Gah, stupid "s") chassis strength.. Yes this does include the welder.... I was thinking of adding some tubes in very percise locations to strengthen the car... I cant really put super good pics of it... But let me Tell you what im thinking.

Up front in the trunk, Since I will be cutting the inside fender wells, I think I should put a couple braces in there. Mainly, From the front A arm pick up point on both sides To some point on the firewall of the gas tank. Creating a triangle. Also from those two bars, possibly putting in one or two bars that go horizontally, one at the bottom by the a arms, and one in the middle, possibly holding a battery down the future when I decide to put the battery up front.

In the middle of the car.. I dont know, suggestions accepted, but I dont want this to be a tube car... I have ONLY a certain amount of welding skills.. lol. I want to add as much strength as possible while not cutting up the car or "ruining it" Maybe 10 bars max through the car. I do have plans of welding in the interior long stiffening kit. My longs are perfect, but this is a going to be a v8 car.. and you never know what that extra tq could do.

Next I heard some traffic about the rear suspension ears possibly flexing a tad.. I also saw the thread where they ran a tube from the front engine fire wall to the ear.. Looks good... Anything else in that compartment?

Also the rear trunk.. Somethin like this



Anyone have any advice? Where can I help this problem of "stress"? I get it enough myself...

Andrew

Maybe like this?

Thats what I hear is strong.. Picking it up at the trani mounts..
Thats a thought.

I think that still might give me enough room for a spare tire... I've got a space saver that I've got to fit back there.

What about the front? The interior?

Ehh?

Andrew

andrew, you have to be careful strengthening the car, you build the front and rear up too much and the middle gets all the abuse......I'd say just reinforce the trailing arm ear tabs like shown in the thread for Bill Pickerings 914/6 race car.....

there are V8 914s that have no additional bracing that have been on the street for years and years....

you can save some time and money by skipping all this unneeded bracing and move onto other projects on your car

in a few years when you are making some real money and if you are still enjoying the car, get a "proper" transmission that'll take abuse, then add a full cage with all the bracing to make a car you can beat on and not worry about a thing....

Looks good!

I cant believe someone's trying to "detune" a sbc. Its like... well I dont have a good analogy, but it sounds funny.

Where did you get your space saver tire?

Space saver spare, pick and pull, there was a 924S there.. 5 bucks...

hehe

Mike, Ya I know "To many projects".. But Im just thinking of what area will get the most abuse? I have an extra trani, and Im going to keep picking those up, plus half shafts.. I basically want to make the car be a... IF something breaks.. THIS is it.

making it the "failsave" or what not.

Matt, you know why im detuning it..

Besides... Im detuning it to rev, and for fuel economy. Actually im tuning it.. lol. Im forcing all the tq and hp up high.

STILL dont know what cam im going to use.. and Im probably picking it up today!!

Andrew

Im thinking 6k is my rev limit.

I just dont want it to fall off at 5k, I want it to pull to 6k.

Oh ya, its a four bolt main... and I plan on putting roller rockers and possibly destrokeing the crank.. 327 or something...

That should help, right?

Andrew

My car is an autocross car. No street. So the bracing is a bit extreme for what you would need on a street car.

Here is the front bracing along with the radiator setup.

If you want to destroke your engine the 327 crank would be a good cost effective choice. The 3.25" stroke pistons are available cheap from Summit or other suppliers.

If you wanted to go with a 3.00" stroke and make a 302 you'd have to find a large journal crank and that would cost more as would the pistons.


Mike T

Hey Mike,

is that a custom radiator or a one from Renegade/Rod Simpson??

Well, here is the cam that was suggested by the Machine shop.
Now that I'm comparing specs, it seems a bit odd in the Adv Dur vs the Dur @ .050.
None of the cams I'm looking at have that much variation.
Is this totally wrong for our purposes?

It's an Elgin "Pro Stock" Cam
These are the specs on the box.
DURN DUR. @ .050 CAM LIFT Valve Lift Lobe Centers
IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex IN Ex
291 291 218 218 0.303 0.303 0.455 0.455 105 115

Thanks,
Dan

I bought it used so I'm not sure but believe it's a Simpson. Seems to work well. Temps at this weekend's autocross were never over 200°. It's not a street car and temps were mid 70's. Never had the car running for more that 20 mins at a time. Sufficient for autocross I think.

Mike T

Heres an update...

Got the parts from Steve (very much earlyer than I expected. Thanks!!!)

I have the bottom end assembled, the top end... well, silly me, I cant fine a stupid head bolt.. I assume I wont find one at the local flaps... So Im just going to hit pick and pull.

Engine's painted... I'll paint, or clean the carb (depending on how bad it is..) and paint the air cleaner junk black with silver accents..

Should look pretty darn good!

Heres a buncha pics.

The twin (huge) fans that I got from Steve... I think I'll just use one.. there 15in...

hehe... I know im going to be shot down for this one. But here goes nothing.

Steve dropped off this front hood, and honestly, I really like it! It will create a pull from the front hood, and it will allow for air to escape smoothly. Later on I'll cut the fender wells, and reinforce that area because of the strength lost from cutting the fenderwells.. But currently I think this will be perfect. Its a perfect design for my radiator and fan setup as well.

I will be putting a grill in the opening, adding another layer of fiberglass to fill in any trouble area's, and for strenth, and finishing so it looks nice, and painting it all body color.

ITS FUNCTIONAL..... Im no ricer..

Let me know what you think.

Adapter plate for the later model v8 (86 and up to the LS1) that will be for sale on ebay or whatnot soon. also the rails that hold the two radiator fans together.. Dont think im gona use it.

Cool trick stuff.

Harmonic balancer from renegade or whatnot.

and hehe, remote oil filter, which I will tap into the lines and add a oil cooler, Yup, I dont want any over heating problems, my big ars aluminum radiator, big old fans, and this oil cooler, should prevent any of that problem. Besides all the engine stuff is clean, hot tanked, and everything should flow very nicely.

Water lines.. gona paint tomorrow or so.. (yes, if you dont know, I like keeping things clean..)

Boring single exhaust... One cat, one truck muff.. first few miles im going to do will be taking it down to a nice muff shop, and having them take out the cat. Shouldnt be that hard, not that much money.

Later on I'll spend some cash and do a nice, cool sounding dual exhaust. We have some interesting idea's....

Andyrew, you make the old parts look good. Hope they meet and exceed your needs along with being functional. It was good to meet you and your father. Enjoyed your car and what you are doing with it. Glad the parts are being used instead of rusting away.

I know you have a few holes to fill in parts needs. Let me know what they are. It appears I will be getting out of the 914 business until we move. Need to cut down on my P-Car reserves and get back involved when I get moved.

Steve Hurt

Alternator mount, and "custom" alternator... I'll just use my basically new alternator from pick and pull, spins better.

In the background is the smog pump... Can you guess what Im going to do with that?..

save it incase the Man says that all cars have to be smogged.

OH er.. ya..

Also my 9in Kevlar flywheel... Some interesting wear marks, but asside from those, it looks new.

I'll save it for later, when I get a beeefy trani.. I'll use the 7in clutch Scott gave me for the time being.. mainly so that I break my clutch, and not my trani.

Steve, so far, it looks like the only thing I need are the clutch extender (you have... Could use it in a week, or so, We'll drive down there... gota get outa the house), and a throwout bearing. I tried calling Rod simpson (cheapest) today but the guy didnt answer, so I'll call him tomorrow morn.

Next on my list

Box of parts.. Reverse fittings.. some bolts, whatnot.. thermostat stuff, and a water pump!!!!

And last, but appropriately not least, is the engine mount bar..

Which I like.. Much better than the clamp two U clamps on with some square tubing, and go...

Andrew

Dont install the harmonic balancer until you get the spacer that goes behind it. It should be cheap from Renegade. It appears to be the only thing missing in your pics. If the balancer was installed on another engine (I know it was).. he may have not pulled off the spacer that was sitting behind it.

B

Alright, Im sure Steve still has it on his engine.. If not, im going to get a throwout bearing from RSH, so I'll get one from him...(he seems to have the cheapest parts)

And ya, I actually was going to ask about that spacer... Thanks.

Andrew

Buy the throwout bearing from KEP. This is where everyone gets them from. Rod works from his house (no/low overhead) so yes his prices will be a tad cheaper than RHS.


B

I would... but I wana get this thing runnin soon. Theres a ford focus dyno day at a local dyno shop the 15th, (friend of ours has couple focus's, and dad occasionally posts on their bbs, making them jelous with high hp numbers and such. ) And I really want to get it on the dyno and get some tune time... Our Gtech just isnt working right.. (bout the only thing it does is 0-60 and 1/4 mile.. Hp numbers are inaccurate, and lateral/continuous g's just plain dont register)

Since RSH is down LA I could have it in my hands, maybe fri.. That is if he has the parts on shelf.

But if he doesnt have everything, I'll call KEP (Thats Kennedy, right?? Or?)

Kennedy is closer to us than RSH.. but feel free to buy from whomever.

KEP supplies these guy's with 90% of what you see being sold.

B

Aight fine. I'll give kennedy a call in the morn.. I thought they where located in like tennesee or somethin..

Nope, they are in Lancaster and the parts are usually shipped out same day and being in California, you should have them next day and their prices are lower. Anytime I order from them, I have it next day. They are great.

I agree, KEP has been awesome to deal with. Hobart Kennedy is a very patient man and has spent some time on the phone with me going over parts that I needed.

Andyrew, I like the hood idea and was considering something like that for my car although with more of a rounded/contoured look that you see on cars with a similar arrangement for added downforce. By this I mean they have a they appear to have a duct that goes all the way to the radiator instead of just a hole that looks straight at the firewall. I would think the sealed duct type set up would prevent water from collecting in the trunk when it rains. Does this make sense?

I like this thread idea of yours and think I will start one as well - although I think my progress is going to be much, much slower than yours

Aight, im gona give KEP a call.

I'll try to get a betta pic of the hood.. But my radiator "looks" straight at the hole, therefore the fans would be blowing the air straight twards the opening (I have a monster radiator that I have to put in at a huge angle... and there is a reversed scoop that raises the front one in.. I might put a small, small lip on the edge to give it a tad more turbulence.. but then again, I might now.

I'll see if I can get betta pics of it.

Andrew

today was...

A productively bad day... lol

Im quite positive I wont get it running for the dyno day... Mostly because I dont have everything...

So.. Incase someone is following price wise.. I made some larger purchases the past couple days (read ouch)

So, Kragen was 70 dollars for... erm carb rebuild kit, oil, wires, spark plugs.. and some other stuff.

Home depo was 40 bucks for some tools (little tools) and some metal for the radiator shrowd (more on that later)

Ebay got expensive today.. But I feel I made out fairly well

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7914176910
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7914966961

Ahh look at that ebay motors item number.. Isnt it satisfying?

Pics later..

Andrew

Oh I guess I could post some pics..

Dad rebuild the carb (Thanks!) yesterday,

And I have been workin on the lousy radiator shrowd stuff... Ahh I just have to make up my mind about a few things.. do some final cuts, do some painting, put the radiator in, seal everything up good with some expando foam, and Im good for paint..

Then I'll be running the lines for the radiator, working on doing some fiberglassing.. ahh the joys are endless...

Anyways.. heres some pics.

In the above pic, the top two pieces are for the side of the radiator, they have L brackets so the radiator is supported. and I have little L brackets to support the shrowds.

This pic has my poor excuse for welding the ac thing in.. Its lots of tack welds.. I'll use some sealer to seal it up after I por 15 it, then I'll paint. It also has the bar that will hold the radiator in place, I'll make a clamp that will bolt onto the bar, and will clamp to the radiator, holding it firmly in place.

And heres the hole... Not that big, but it should work.

And here's the 916 bumper that will have its hole fiberglasses to the hole of the car, providing all the air that goes into the hole will go into the radiator and not through the air pocket between the bumper and the front nose of the car...

Yes I have to trim it a little.. It was made for flares. (I have flares...)

Andyrew,

I would have to vouch against the expanding foam. It's a royal pain to clean up. I used it on my first radiator and when i switched radiators it took me twice as long to change it out b/c of the clean up i had to do. I suggest finding another way. take more time on the shrouding so that you don't need the foam.

Thats what I told dad.. but he insisted foam... We'll see.

Andrew

Ahh, methinks its time for an update!

Amazingly I've been doing minor stuff this whole time... but ya...

Ok, The main things..

Im putting the engine in the car for a mockup.. checking bla bla bla.

I could have been ready for it to run, but I dont have the correct TO bearing (I'll get one from KEP, should get here sometime this week)

But I've gotten alot of "goodies" since last!


I went over to steves house on saturday, checked out his bunch of cool cars, and picked up more than I bargined for!
list
9in clutch and pressure plate
clutch throw extender (on pedal assymbly)
exhaust manifolds to work with his exhaust
radiator (spare)
High tq starter
shift linkage
Buttload of perfect (most NOS) seals (BONUS!!!!!)

And if you can believe it, he gave them to me.. Thanks Steve Hurt! (shotguneagle)

The most recent thing was yesterday, I went to the Turlock swap meet... Buncha hot rod stuff... Sooo... after recieving 150 bucks for selling carbs (hope the work out for ya Shane!) I had 150 bucks in my pocket to burn, and dad had a good deal of cash ready to spend as well. Well we spent 160 bucks (roughly) on parts. Heres the list!

Hugger headers $40
Performer RPM intake manifold $60
Holley 600 cfm carb $20
carb spacer/adapter $1
oil cooler $2
14in chrome (uggh) air cleaner $5
2.5in tach$5
wingnut $1
wire separators $1
header bolts $1
dizzy wires $5
spare dizzy (for shaft for priming oil pump) $2
gaskets $1
sandpaper (of all things lol) $5
and a timing marker thingy.. $1

I made a "guestimate" of how much everything would cost me new.... hehe
it was "around" 600...

I feel good.

Andrew,
Good scores! just plunked down a ~$200 on just valve cover and w/p gaskets, header bolts, manifold bolts, carb studs, "Right Stuff" silcone for the manifold, Bosch platinum 2 spark plugs, and anti-seize for the plugs. I ordered the HEI dist. and am shopping for a beefier clutch. I'm looking for motor mounts, maybe the urethane type but they are ~$50 ea.

I got the allen (female) head header bolts because the standard type are hard to tighten with a wrench. They've loosened on mine frequently.

I found a set of used Hooker ceramic coated Competition headers for $100 on eBay! These are for early Vettes so they usually sell for alot more.

Felix

Radiator...

DONE

(minous wiring the fan...)

Why does it look like its going to leak??? Are you going to put clamps on the red hoses?? Also, where is the air going to escape from?? Just wondering.

Oh the hoses arnt connected all the way.... air escape??

Scott,
You must have missed the vented hood pic...
When are you going to have your car running
Felix

hey Andrew, that ugly front bumper sure looks familiar ....did you get that from Jim???

so are you running the hot air from the radiator out the hood like that black V8 914 that was at the WCC???