Sweet. Hope to see you spank my v8.

Btw do I see some new projectors retrofitted into your headlight housings?

Matt

Woo Hoo!!

Running way too rich right now. O2 says I'm at 8.1 @ 10psi. Time to tune down the secondary injectors. Looking to be around 12 @ 10psi. I'm starting by reducing pulse width by 25% and see what happens.

Well WCR was the first real outing with the turbo rotary. I think it's too radical to be streetable. Too loud. Too much fun. But ultimately no suited for my driving style. Hammer on!

I think Andrew has talked me into another swap. 1.8t and tranny from an Audi/VW. On the hunt now! Thinking of buying an entire car to pull apart. Maybe an entire harness swap. Couldn't be that hard. At least it will be all German again.

Anyone need a rebuilt 901 with an H gear? Need to finance my next swap with parts from the old swap.

Stay tuned for part 3...

Why not de-tune it?



















And then do another car with the 1.8t for the wife.

I need something more reliable like my V8. Nothing really is as relaible as a chevy V8 but I want to enjoy the car and not be worried everytime I take it out. Looks like I may have a buyer for the first blown engine. If I can unload the rest of the drive train, it will finance the swap.

I can't leave well enough alone...

Seeing the green subie driven from Idaho is plenty of motivation. I would never drive this combo that far.

OHhhh Man!



Thats exactly my thoughts as well, pull the entire harness and start from scratch... You could even keep the climate control system.

I think a megasquirt system is what you might want to go with though.. Unless you want to spend $900 on tuning software and license.. If you do, Get a drive by wire car as they can adjust more parameters and you can run a MAF less file.

Also the AEB head (early) is a large port head and flows better out of the box. They also have bigger wrist pins, but you should upgrade your rods anyways (if you plan on running more than 350hp).. Cheap insurance and thats ALL you need to touch on those 1.8's...

034 motorsports will be your friend if you like spending money They can dyno tune really well.

It doesn't get any nicer than an LS1.
Too common? Psh. I think you are ready for it.

LS1 is cool but too much $$$ when you price the adapter, ECU, etc... The best LS solution is the smag legal crate motor. Still $8k complete plus $1k for the adapter. At that rate, I might as well go 3.6L. Which would be cool but I really cant afford to fix a Porsche 6.

The Audi/WV needs no adapter, is smaller and I can use the factory stuff if I pick up the whole car. It's not the first time I stripped the harness and motor out of a donar car.

$9k for a lifetime bulletproof mega powerplant doesn't sound bad. Just sayin...

Neither does 3k.. Oh and you can part out the rest of the car. Spend the part out money on going through the engine, Making it bulletproof. Also gears are interchangeable through the many years so he can mess with the ratio's and do what he wants.. Or just run a 2.8 trani and have a bit longer ratio's. (I have a 1.8 trani from my car that I wore the syncro's on first and the 2.8 trani from my parts 2.8 car in the backyard, I'll be mixing the gears in the 1.8 and 2.8 to make a nice autox/track car for gears 1-3 and 4/5 will be cruise gears.

Think about it. What do you want in the end? (Considering everything... Cost, reliability, performance, longevity, brute HP potential, etc.)

Rotary has HUGE potential. No doubt about power to weight. But for brute power and reliability and longevity and drivability, and... LS1 is a no brain3r. (Really, who figures there's a better engine for the money?)

Audi would be another new adventure.... And the same potential. Hmm. Go go go go!!!

Um... $9k???? I can get a Trail blazer SS aluminum block 5.3 from the junkyard locally for $750... That motor is right at 300 HP with no improvements - At 9K you should be close to 500+HP with an LS2/930 combo - Just saying...

Look what followed me home today. Can you say donor car???

2000 VW Passat, 1.8 Turbo, 5 Speed, Chipped ECU, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, bunch more goodies. The guy hit a 1 foot by 3 foot piece of concrete on the freeway at 1am. The right front wheel took most of the blow along with the rocker panel and rear wheel. The bumper and intercooler were also damaged. Engine runs good and is driveable, but the two wheels and tires are wasted! The guy is out of work and sold it to me cheap. Real cheap!!! Some of the interior was sold prior to my purchase. Hence the lawn chair drivers seat.

The Plan:
strip apart the harness wire by wire and get rid of what I don't need. No biggie, been an electrician for over 20 years. Decide if I want to keep gauges, info display, etc...

Install the engine/tranny package. Get it running as is but with my air/water intercooler. Then decide if any other mods are warranted. The engine should be good for 200hp as is.

Sell off current engine, ECU, 901, etc... I sold my first blown rotary for $500 yesterday. Who would have thought there was a market for blown engines???

This time I am using the factory VW ECU and components. No custom programming. I may get it tuned once complete and see if there is any more easy hp inside. At least I don't have to invent the wheel on this one.

The intake and exhaust on this engine are on the same sides as my current setup. Nice! This is a throttle by wire so the pedal will have to swap too. The clutch master cylinder also.

Other than some interior bits, this is a complete car. I should have most everything to pull this off.

Goal
Have it in running condition by WCR 2013!

Is there a record for the most engine swaps for the same car?

Stay tuned for part three of my build!!!

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YEEEAHH!

You wont find any more HP than whats in that tune. The ECU and engine self tunes itself on the fly, maxing it out.

You'll really wake the engine up when you swap turbo's. (They have "eliminator" turbo's that bolt on to the stock exhaust manifold...)

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...gory_Code=VVWTK

http://www.ringer-racing.com/category.sc?categoryId=32

Throttle by wire is good IMHO.

Hey Mike, The old lady next door is going to have a cow with your new adventure. John

It's in the garage right now. 914, still under rotary power is in the driveway. I'm almost ready to pull the engine. Going with a boxster tranny. Same except the 100mm flanges and set up for mid engine cable shift already.

Boxter trani, Well that blows the budget right out of the water

6 speed or 5?

So ...what are you going to do with the Rotary

Psst. Hey. Ecotec 1000hp, smaller displacement. Ready by next WCR.

See you on the track!

I was hoping you would bring that. That's how you roll after all!!
This Audi stuff is just an in-betweeen. Don't tell me you don't know that.
just some friendly ribbing Mike. Can't wait to see what you do next. Because there is more than Audi...... :hmmm:

Whatever I get my hands on. See if I can work a deal with Parts Heaven. See them on ebay from $400-$3200(Boxster). Same VW trasnny $300-$1600. Same Audi teanny $800-$2400. All the mounting points are similar, The differential, hubs and gearing are different but similar. The mounts have to be fabbed anyway, so any will workk. Boxster looks like the cheapest in the long run if I include my fab and engineering time. The key is bolt on shfiter, no fab or engineering. Exact same bell housing. 100mm flanges that will bolt up to my 911 CV's. I just have to figure out axle lengths once its in.

So it will be mostly Porsche with a little Audi to keep it interesting. This version will be a ~250hp, factory reliable motor. I intend to keep the MAF sensor and I found a Lambda converter to scale my wideband O2 0v-5v output to the 0v-1v input to the ECU. Should run even better in closed loop. 034 Motorsport is going to reflash my ECU to remove all the equipment I removed from the car. No limp mode, unless an active sensor triggers it. ODBII will still have access but my read modified.

Al at Parts Heaven asked me to bring the car as is to the swap and show in June. I'll drive it there and back then pull the drive train. Selling off the rotary stuff and H gear tranny. If you want anything PM me.

Been busy on the donor car. Stripped the wiring out wire by wire. Once you get the interior out there are a shit load of wires to pull. I started with the radio and speaker/amp harnesses. Easy to spot and took out a lot of wires. Switched to the tail lights. followed those to the front and removed. Then air bag, abs, AC, interior lights, wipers. I was left with some relays, fuse panels and misc extra wiring. I then pulled out a schematic and got it down to the EFI, Steering column and gauge cluster. It still runs!!! Its ready to pull out compleatly. Should be an easy transfer. I'm keeping the gauge cluster. It needs a little trimming to fit the stock dash, not too hard. Then I get to keep most of the idiot lights and dash comoputer that says "STOP Low Oil Pressure". Turn signal and high beam lights should work too. I might even be able to get the traction control to work if I fab sensors to the wheels.

Hers a couple pics of the stripped dash and wiring...

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Here's a pick of my getto intake tube, just used to verify the car was running throughout the operation...

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EJ25D with 5 speed

Too much time on CL while the site was down.

This is going to be a throttle by wire install. In this pic of the pedal, there are only 3 bolts holding it to the bracket. Should be an easy transplant, 6 wires to run to the pedal area. I will have to fab a hydraulic clutch. Looks like I have donor parts, but I might go with a Wilwood master cylinder.

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I know what you mean.

That green 914 from Idaho motivated the change. I would never driven the rotary that far. It makes a better race motor than a street motor.

I'll see if I can drive it to Moab one of these days.

BTW, Nice score! Subie... doobie... doo...

Mike, Have you considered using the pedal assy. from the VW? Could even keep the power brakes.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread,

It inspired me as well. I've got some crazy ideas bouncing around.

I am considering it. I could tie front brackets into my roll bar cross tube. The fresh air box would need to be removed or heavily modified. So would the front firewall. Not sure about the power brakes on my 930 calipers. They work great right now. Why fix it? Will most likely mont a master cyl next to the existing brake master. Seems like an easier solution?

I'm thinking of cutting out the entire front firewall and welding in the fire wall out of the suby. This would alow me to utilize the pedal assy., heater, a/c, dash
, and all. According to the tape measure it's all doable.

Any update?

My back's been too fuched up to do much. 1.8t is ready for a new timing belt. Hope to pull the engine out this weekend. Maybe...

Looks like the K03 turbo has lots of shaft play. Need to upgrade to either a K04 or GT28. Can't decide. the cost difference is minimal, leaning to the GT28. Looks like I have a buyer for my 901. That should help finance the project.

Need to stock up on DOM tubing for the engine cradle.

Overall progress is slow. Doctor says I have a pinched siatic nerve (sp?) Need to take is easy for a while. Waiting for xrays to come back with final results.

If I can sway you... The GT28 is an AMAZING turbo for that engine... I ran a GT28RS aka GT2560 on my APR stage 3. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks.


Also you can run that turbo like that for quite a while... They came from the factory with shaft play.. You could do the popular "frankenturbo" Similar to the GT28RS, little less HP.

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showpr...kit-&cat=20

Just keep in mind, if you do a turbo upgrade you'll be looking at injectors, ecu/tune, fittings, ect ect..

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...gory_Code=VVWTK
This is an "eliminator" turbo, it eliminates the need for a custom exhaust manifold. So therefore its technically bolt on. Just supply a fueling solution.
You could get your own injectors and Maestro tune it. There are lots of people with tunes that you can use. Or you could have 034 tune it.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showpr...-ecu&cat=20


http://www.034motorsport.com/turbochargers...ng-p-17552.html
Heres same kit with O34 providing tuning solution.


Your looking at 2k+ even with used injectors and tune.. You might be able to find a used kit cheap. I see them every now and then.

Personally I'd run the stock turbo for a while and save up till your bored with the power. They generally have quite a bit of shaft play. Does it hit the housing?

Also, Ouch on the nerve.. Hope you feel better!

Yikes! Take it easy there Mike. We all know your just going to yank out this motor after you finish and start another crazy build on the same car.

My understanding it that the K03 shaft is supported by oil. They feel 'looser' than a bearing turbo when unlubricated.

But if you need a place to dump that K03, hold on to it for me.

What a great idea on using the Subie firewall. After all, that steel was recycled from boat loads of scrap shipped from the US, which was initially tons of German bugs and vans scrapped for use in American K-Cars built by Chrysler in the day.

Kind a makes sense to repurpose it, yes?

You may be correct. it is a little loose when you wiggle the shaft.

You got first dibs...

Maybe I should buy more 914's? On for every possible engine combination. Although, I think I'm done after this swap.



Here is a link to part 1
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=113156

Here is a link to part 3
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=187914