Put me down for two!

Chris, count me in for 1. PM details when $$ needed.

Just a heads up for those looking to purchase the meter and do the repair themselves.
The Wavetek Meterman LCR55 is discontinued.
The suggested replacement is the Amprobe LCR55A. Component Tester.
I have one coming. I'm at $202 with a padded case.
Coming from Tequipment.

http://www.tequipment.net/AmprobeLCR55A.html

I agree. I would be in if it was possible to then take a rebuilt unit and calibrate it. I found this author very very helpful in getting my FI running well. Here is a description that I think people probably know about.
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/manif...sure_sensor.htm

A kit of repair parts would be massively more valuable with a good piece of technical writing to go with it. So, although mine works at present, I would be in.

This morning I figured out how I'll make the hollow 7mm allen wrenches for the adjusting tool kit.

At present I've been making adjustments to the unit in my DD, using a Narrow Band O2 gauge to see the results of each adjustment. A W/B would be better though.

I only need cost data on one more component of the repair kit to firm up the sales price. I should be able to make the G/B formal announcement within a week.

I'd be in for one or 2 also! Thanks

I have room on my shelf for one.

Thanks
Olin

Jamie, I thought you were all in on the LS1 conversion and liquidating all your other 914 shtuff. 2nd thoughts?

Here's the quote I finally got back from Bosch's factory rebuild service.

Good day!

Depending on the part number ... between 349 and 599 EUR (incl. 19% German VAT) plus shipping.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards

Matthias Klumpp

Robert Bosch GmbH
Automotive Tradition (AA/ATR2)


Whoa ............

I'm in just to support the cause.

I'll take one; Wes

Has anyone used the Sinometer MS8222H Digital Multimeter & LCR Meter
for measuring inductance to calibrate the MPS?

It's only $43 on amazon.

Count me in too...

i need good mps'

Sean,

I don't know you, but based on your threads, I'll bet you have a 6-pack or 3 of these things stored for this magic day

I'm ready to start taking orders.
Introductory Price of $97.95 is good from now thru July 31, 2012.
I expect to atart shipping kits by late August if I get enough sales quickly.

A Tuning Kit is available with a special hollow 7mm hex tool, small flat blade screwdriver, and new Full Throttle Stop Screw.
Tuning Kit introductory price - $42.95
Both Kits Together - $132.95
Prices include shipping.
Order using Paypal from our Whats New Page.

edit 7/9/12: fixed erroneous repair kit price

Paypal sent!

Thanks for making these.

I am starting to work on my friend's stock 914 to get it running so this will come in handy.

John

Chris,

I have to gather some funds
I will buy soon
thanks for doing this!

brant

HaHAH!!

Just ordered one. Thanks Chris!

Since there will be a long delay until the kits are ready to ship, I'm emailing paid invoice copies to everyone who places an order now.
After you send in an order you should receive your receipt within 48 hours.
If not, check your spam folder.
Adding me to your email address book will probably help if my email isn't getting through.
christopher dot foley at tangerineracing dot com

also just ordered one with tune up kit, from your store via PayPal. Keep us posted for delivery date.

I just ordered a kit with the tools. I've got 2 1.7 mps's, one's borderline and the other is less than that, so if I can fix the one, I can use that and the other as a spare.

Done via PayPal

Thanks

I bought a Sinometer, not sure if it's the same model, but it was a piece of junk. The thermocouple stoped working as well as the henery meter.... save your money to buy a nice fluke.

Thanks to the 13 people who placed their orders right away!
Gotta keep the topic on page one or two in the Garage until we get to 100.

Very interesting. I'll order one, soon, and I'll update my page with the info on the kit. I get hits from round the world, from D-Jet owners far outside of the 914 community, so I may be able to drum up considerable interest (e.g. Volvo, M-B, Citroen, etc.). As for calibration, hate to tell you, but using either an LCR meter or a bench tester (like an EFI Associates tester) is the only way I know how to reliably set up an MPS. Too many variables to using a mechanical method (with a vernier depth gauge).

i just bought 3 cars so Im low on dough. good thing we have a little time to recover

Free bump for more action

My plan is to install a wide band sensor... so is there anyway to get it close first Chris and then adjust on the road or perhaps on a dyno?

Right now I have a rebuilt unit...but I know it is running lean on part to full load. Goal is to change out to the kit and see what happens and then tune to the AFR gauge with the kit.

Does this make sense given what Brad has said?

I think one can tune a rebuilt unit solely by making adjustments in a vehicle, once one understands the effect of the three adjustment screws.
I'm currently tuning my car with a narrow band AFM. It doesn't have the precision of a wideband but I know the engine runs lean at idle and light throttle, it goes rich of stoich. with a little more throttle, and is sufficiently rich at full throttle.

Brads writing on the subject has been a great help to me in getting my car running well (thanks Brad!)!
I have access to a LCR and setup a MPS per his settings adjusted for my altitude (sea level).
The problem is that the factory settings are way too lean.
I have confirmed this on another 914 as well.
My theory is that cars were already set on "lean kill" from the factory to meet 70's emmisions with the technology they had.
Add to that 10% ethanol and a free flowing exhaust (both my car and the other car have Bursch exhausts) and you have a very lean running car (solid white plugs and inside the exhaust header) that bucks on the factory settings.
So an LCR just gives you a place to start IMO/experience.
I have not yet added a wide band sensor, but that is the real solution.
If that is not in your immediate future, I would have one set with an LCR and then turn the center screw out (richer) until it runs better.
To do this easily you really need to drill the full throttle stop so that you do not lose that adjustment evertime you want to adjust the mixture.
I believe both my and the other car are about 2 turns out on the center screw only.
Start with 1/2 turn at a time until you are getting closer, then go 1/4 turn until there is almost no bucking at anything other than very light throttle, then go 1/8 turn or less until you are happy.
You should find that the idle mixture adjusting knob on the box is close to the middle of the adjustment range.
If you think your car is rich, I would not recommend leaning it out without a wide band sensor in place!
I have put about 9000 miles on my car since adjusting this way and it always starts and gets decent mileage.

Chris,

Please add me to the list. I have so much invested in my 914 that I have to drive it until I'm 90, so I know I'll need one, at least.

Tim

There's a Paypal shopping cart button for the kits on the Tangerine Racing Whats New Page.
Or you can call my shop to place a credit card order. 860-643-1550
The special introductory price is good thru July.
Hopefully I'll have more than a hundred orders by then and the diaphragms will be made sooner rather than later.


I'm going forward with the tool kits already and they'll be shipped ahead of the repair kits to anyone who wants to start adjusting a good MPS they have in service.

If you want to get it really "right", use the LCR or a bench D-Jet setup to first get it to the specs on my page. Then, you can either tune it on the road using a decent AFM, or, better yet, take it to a dyno shop and get it right. What mixture you run for steady part-load is a matter of choice. Some will want to run it richer for better cooling and better load transition, others will run it leaner for better fuel economy. Setting the full-load mixture should be straightforward.

If you don't have an LCR to do the initial setup, it can be pretty tricky to get it right, but I'm sure it can be done with an AFM and some patience.

I think that if one re-assembles a unit with a new diaphragm having the adjustment screws set at the exact position as with the original diaphragm it should be possible to start the engine and begine tuning by wide band AFM.
Just like with carbs, setting the idle rpm up a bit might be necessary to begin the tuning procedure.

hey, you might want to offer these new parts over on The Samba classified ads, might help you get to your minimal order faster. many type I and Iv VW's use the same MPS part

Thats a good idea.

thanks, great tuning info, What's an LCR?

Inductance, capacitance, resistance meter. Most multimeters don't include inductance.

Olin

I know getting 100 paid orders in 5 weeks is rather ambitious, but this is looking hopeless.
We're stuck at 21 for more than a week now.

Other cars using D-Jet include:

M Benz 250, 280, 300, 350, 450
Porsche 914/4
Renault R17, R17G
Saab 99E
VW Type 3, 4
Volvo 1800 E, 1800 ES, 142, 144, 164E
Cadillac 1976-79
Jaguar XJ-S, XJ12
Citroen SM, DS
BMW 3.0Si (early types)


Maybe you can market these diaphrams on forums for those cars too?

Thanks Jeff!

Now all we have to do is join enough forums by 7/31.

Has anyone invited Dave from The Bird?

This is a major component that many have tried to address over the years and Chris finally has a solution.

It's worth asking guys...

I have posted this info/link to the benzworld.org site under R107's forum. Lets hope they don't delete it as spam. :~

I contacted my cousin who is a former Saab club president.
He says he'll get the word out, but doesn't think there are many 99Es left out there.

I may be one of many Chris. I will want 2 diaphragms and one tool kit, but was dragging my feet till "t minus 10" because of a slow 2nd qtr.

Posted now to the Volvo 1800 whre I received this already:

"Outstanding! There will be MANY 1800 owners interested. Presumably they will come with instructions on how to do the repair, and test the electronics at the same time.

There is a repair service for the MPS but I've never before seen the diaphragms offered."

I totally understand your perspective Kent. I hope you are one of many!
I'm not too anxious about this yet, just trying to keep the ball rolling.

This afternoon I was redrawing the full load stop screw with a hex inset for an allen wrench instead of the screwdriver slot.
Since I'm going with a thru hole for tuning purposes allready, it shouldn't be too hard to broach the hex shape.
I'm going to submit that to my machinist for cost comparison and get them ordered very soon.