Nice work @friethmiller . It's nice to see it coming together and your build is top notch!

Thanks Doug and Shivers! Inching closer to the day I get to drive this car. It's been 3 1/2 years of restoration work and I've never driven a 914. I'm taking my time trying to get things in place and learning as I go. Here's where that engine is going

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Doug, Do you mean the hike with the black plastic plug located on the passenger side at the rear of the case? Or, the smaller hole on the other side?

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This one

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I'm having AC installed this summer as part of engine/transmission rebuild with Mark Henry. Really looking forward to having the car back. Plan is to build a GT deck lid and install a 12x24 condenser underneath. Two 11-inch puller fans will be used. One fan comes on with the compressor and the other is controlled by the trinary switch or switch in the cab. I've built up a simple diode matrix with color coded wires to simplify installation. A Sanden SD7H13 compressor, engine mount, pulley and belt have been supplied by Gilmore Enterprises. Under dash evaporator, condenser coil, hoses, dryer come from Vintage Air.

I saw pictures of used dryer/receivers in the older messages in the thread. From my discussion with HVAC techs, those should never be reused. It has a limited capacity for moisture removal. If the refrigerant is replaced due to maintenance or a leak the dryer should be replaced.

Has anyone had an issue with electrical overload with the AC system? VintageAir claims the under dash evaporator may need up to about 25A for the blower and compressor clutch. The condenser fans could require about 9A each. That's up to 43A total. Maybe I'll be looking at an upgraded alternator next summer.

Usually those will be start up loads, actual running loads will likely be less, Warren with your huge Optima yellow top battery those start up loads hopefully won't be an issue. I'm planing to run a 10+ gauge wire direct from the battery to up under the dash for the head unit.

Hope you're taking photos!

I have a bunch of wire, connectors, etc to ship to you with the diode block.

Sounds like a cool build Warren914. Maybe you and/or MH can share some pics.

I don't feel it's my place to post photos of Mark's garage. I'll leave it to him to post those. Here's my hand drawing for the wiring. The diode block has six diodes to switch relays and shunt reverse spikes to ground. Six wires exit the sealed heat shrink module.

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Hi Warren..I think we're all watching these AC threads. I just saw your Facebook post on the AC install, and posted a link here. I'll go back and reroute people here.

Which evap unit did you purchase from Vintage Air. BTW, they're friendly and helpful should you have a question. You'll usually get someone on the phone that knows what they're talking about, which is a big plus.

Tech support at VintageAir has been very good. I'm pleased with their knowlwdge and willingness to help on the phone or via email.

I asked my kids (and Mark) for opinions on the evaporator. This was the unanimous suggestion.
Heritage Under Dash System Cool Only Blk Anod Eng Turned Aluminum
https://www.vintageair.com/custom/product-pop.php?pn=674005

I actually did not care for the evaporate unit that came in the kit from Classic Auto Air. It was the wrong color and too big to fit between the dash and my original A/C center console. Moreover, it wasn't the same unit that was pictured on their web site. I was a little upset since their customer service couldn't help me. In a micro-fit-of-rage, I decided to purchase a "more" original unit off eBay and use that one instead. The problem with an original unit is that it's... well... 50 years old! So, I decided to create my own Frankenstein. I restored the front end of the old unit and married it up with the new backend/evap motor. The two halves almost matched exactly. Just had to fill in a small spot in the back. My goal was to get the best of both worlds. None of the hoses or electric is hooked up yet but here are a few photos.

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Looks good.
I rehabbed a VPC unit for my T4 powered Notchback. All I changed was to add a new style expansion valve. Blew very cold. I did discover that using the Mastercool tool to crimp the fittings to the hose requires multiple crimps at 180 deg increments to avoid leaks.
A bigger problem for me has been finding vents in good shape as they are a specific size. Yours look good.

That looks great!

Same tool here. I found that going past the the indicated stop point works too.

Good to know on the Master Cool Crimper. I haven’t used mine yet and will definitely keep that in mind when I do. FWIW, I still have usable vents from the front of my new unit that I don’t need. If anyone wants them, I have 5 plastic vents that are approximately 5” x 1 1/2”

I need a replacement vent but mine is Vintage Air. Let me measure mine tomorrow and post a pic. These companies are small and may share a manufacturer.

My vents are aprox 4 x 1.25
I always went a little past the indicator mark when crimping.
What I noticed was the ferrule didn't crimp in and kind of stuck out at where I assume was the location the jaws met. I was able to get the device back on the ferrule while in location which I mounted it to be 180deg from where I assume it was originally.
I tried the AC again after it had been sitting for a while and still seemed to blow cold so fingers crossed.
I also made a bracket and installed the throttle stop solenoid which really helps drivability.

Here's the final mock-up of the A/C compressor before installing the engine. Two things I learned here. 1) Tacking the legs to the mount with the compressor installed and lined up worked very well and saved a bunch of time; 2) the oil filler tube is going to be in the way of the compressor and something will need to be modified. I know Doug extended his filler tube to accommodate the compressor. I'm going to see I can get a flat allen head bolt to provide enough clearance for the oil filler cap to screw on. The last pic shows how I tried, and failed, to get enough space from grinding down the offending compressor bolt.

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If you shorten the filler would it clear?
I used epoxy or JB weld.

Does that bolt screw into a nut welded in place or a tapped opening on the bracket? If so maybe use an elevator bolt and nut one diameter smaller to pass through?

How are you going to set and check ignition timing with the ac compressor mounted right over the timing port?

As mentioned before by Doug, the timing can be set/checked with the hole at the back of the case against the fly wheel. I did that by rotating the engine to the timing mark and then painting that spot on the flywheel. You can also remove the compressor from the mount with just 4 bolts.

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Perhaps. Could also get a inch bigger belt so the compressor would be above the cap. Going to wait and see how much room I have in the engine bay once the engine is installed.

The offending bolt is a compressor bolt (back housing). I believe it’s an M8 with a fine 1.0 pitch. It might be hard(er) to find in a flat/low profile replacement. I’ll check with Belmetric and see what they have.

Why are you mounting the compressor on top of the engine? SD7H13 and similar will mount to the side closer to the battery. I've seen photos and it looks good. Gilmore Enterprises sells the mounts!

Because I don’t want to cut into the side of my engine bay and tin to side mount the compressor. I just spent way too much time repairing/replacing all the metal in the engine bay. It’s a better location for me. You can certainly go that route if you want.

An AC compressor in the stock location interferes with the HE on my header, so your choice to move it was perfect.
I did some development on a top mounted AC compressor but abandoned the project. This looks good.

Wow! Glad I went this route. Thanks, Chris. All credit goes to Doug (dlee6204) who started this thread. The pulley standoff was based on his design and he went out of his way to assist me in modifying the compressor mount for my Sanden 508 compressor.

Ok, I have had a few questions about the A/C mount and how I assembled everything. Since the dimensions b/w the mount ears on the Sanden 508 is approximately 82mm (pic 1), the two side pieces between the U-shaped brackets were cut to 80mm (pic 2). These two pieces slot into the U-shaped brackets to give an overall width of 80mm (pic 3). Note, before welding these four pieces together, alignment should be checked against the blower assembly. Make sure the U-shaped bracket at the back has the relief to go over the timing hole plug (pic 4). For mounting the legs, I tacked the smallest one on first and then with the compressor on the mount on the engine, I tacked the other legs on. Keep in mind, having the compressor belt or a string mounted over the pulleys is very helpful for alignment. Removing the mount, I then finished welding the legs on the workbench. I did one more final fitment just to verify everything before priming and painting the mount.

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I used the Gilmore mount and a Sanden sd5h11 compressor and I did not have to cut the engine shelf.
I did have to cut the rubber attached to the shelf and the engine tins.

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I'm not trying to hijack the thread, just wanted everyone to know that you can fit some compressors on the side without cutting up the engine shelf.

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@AZBanks , very cool! Good to know on the side mount. Your engine/compressor look great. Best of luck getting everything running. I know I still have a lot to do and figure out on mine.

Hi that is a very clean setup. Can you number the diameter of the pulleys?
Regards Michael

Unfortunately, I cannot easily get to the pulley with the engine in the car now. I'll try and see what I can do this evening. I'm thinking the bottom (crank) pulley is about 4" (approx. 100 mm).

Alright. My 914 is operational! Turning my attention to finally wiring up all my A/C components. Got to get the A/C cooling before the Texas heat set in down here. I've created a very ugly wiring diagram. Anybody see anything incorrect here? I can run the evap from either the #8 or #9 fuse (switched power) or directly from the battery. I ran a separate 10 gauge wire from the battery to the frunk for the condenser fan. Just need to connect all the wires to the components and the relay. Thanks all.

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Looking for assistance on my wiring before I start hooking everything up. Thanks

Sorry I can't answer your question Fred. It looks good to me but I don't know sh!t about AC control circuits.

You left out the binary pressure switch. Also you want the comp to cycle on and off separate from the fans. Shouldn't be too hard to find a diagram from one of the hotrod sites. AC wiring is basic but not THAT basic.

From experience, you probably need two relays, one for the compressor, and one for the fans. If you are running fuel injection, you want to add an idle up device too. Get a tank switching valve for a Ford pickup with dual tanks. Cap the normally open side, and plumb it in parallel with the decel valve. Hook the wire up to another relay. Then once you have the car started and the AC running, you will have to add restrictions to the intake hose of the valve to lower the idle speed. I used a dowel rod the same size as the ID of the hose, and drilled out the center until I got the same idle speed as when the AC was off.

Hope that helps.

Clay

From experience, you probably need two relays, one for the compressor, and one for the fans. If you are running fuel injection, you want to add an idle up device too. Get a tank switching valve for a Ford pickup with dual tanks. Cap the normally open side, and plumb it in parallel with the decel valve. Hook the wire up to another relay. Then once you have the car started and the AC running, you will have to add restrictions to the intake hose of the valve to lower the idle speed. I used a dowel rod the same size as the ID of the hose, and drilled out the center until I got the same idle speed as when the AC was off.

Hope that helps.

Clay
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This is genius!

Thanks All! Really appreciate the input. Sorry if I oversimplified the wiring. The instructions (image below) that I received in Custom Auto Air's 914 A/C kit was beyond terrible. While their phone support is good, they don't really know the 914 setup. From what I can gather, this kit was "acquired" when they merged with another company several years back. I'm just trying to figure it out the best I can. I'll see about adding a relay for the compressor. I'm running dual carbs, BTW.

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No worries, Chris. You've done plenty already to help my 914! Which, by the way, sounds so sweet with your custom exhaust/muffler. Get a ton of compliments on the sound of my engine.

After fixing a leak, and securing a new ground for the evaporator unit, my A/C is finally operational!! I still need to tighten the compressor belt a bit more but she's blowing colld air. Not a moment too soon! It's officially summer here in TX. Shout out to Doug (the OP) and several of the others that have chimed in on this thread. Thanks y'all!!

Here's a pic of the wiring in the frunk with the condenser & dryer

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With everything buttoned up:

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Pic of the flexible condenser intake flap (part of a door seal from Home Depot):

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Pic of compressor with hoses - Note the 2 new 10 gauge wires on the battery for the evap and condenser.

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Congratulations! Did you understand what Clay was saying about a two tank Ford? He is one of the most expert hot weather guys I can think of, but what tanks? Am I too far north?

I understand and believe you but I don’t have fuel injection. Is there a different solution for carbs? The compressor pulls my idle down a little too low.