Aw, come on. the shitbox was always pretty.

Click to view attachment

So I was looking into do I need the torsion bars if I go to coil overs and found this.



This car was hit on the driver side and I think it got pushed ? I will clean things up and think maybe I will need to cut the mount out of one of my donors ?







All cleaned up.



Back to the coil over with or with out torsion bar. The answer looks to be just leave them out. Rusted in good. But out now.





Randy

In looking at the mount today it will be a pain to remove . So what would be wrong with cutting it out ( dotted line) like the photo and weld it back in ?



Was thinking I can use the tab from the rear tie bar to hold it in place for welding .

Randy

Got some thing out of the doner. I pulled the hole mount . I think I will remove the spot welds from the backside of the stamping. Then I will drill out the centers and spot weld to the chassis. This may give me more metal for the welding ?



I will need to pull the "A" frame on the passenger side and the steering rack to get to the spot welds on the damage part. PAIN !

But it is the best way to repair it. Going the other way was dumb !

Randy

So I trimmed it up,drilled the pilot holes and used the weld cutter.
Now on to cutting out the bad part. Also need to weld up a small mistake. My bad.







Randy

Back to work. I know this is nothing like the work I see here but its all new to me. Installed the steering rear mount. Took about 3 hours. You guys doing hole floors,just incredible is all I can say !

And now its all installed and almost looks stock ? Using the a frame mount work out well. Just make sure that the mount and chassis are in good shape.





Now on to the other holes and the jack plate. I may make my own mount ? Because I don't have the rear fender off it would be hard to install a complete one.

Not bad for a HACK !
Randy

Nicely done!

Ditto...and thank you for saving another 914 (even if you are doing a Subaru conversion , hahahaha)

Hay CptTripps. Found some wheels you liked on a green 914. What do you think,can I make them fit ? Their 996 7" and 9" 50 and 55 offset.. From the photo of the green car it looks to have spacers.



And thanks, I'm still learning.

A little more work on the Boxster to 108 axle. I'm not going to use a spacer. So I cut the spline about .112". (now I'm going to here it?)

After I get the trailing arms cleaned up I will put it together.





The spline on the Boxster hub will need to be cleaned up a little.

Randy

Well you will need a spacer. I forgot the castle nut ! My bad.
So I made one. I will still shorten the spline . Want the spacer to sit very close to the shaft. The space could be stepped but I feel it will hold its shape better flat. Should torque up better ?






You could say its a thick washer ?

A stiffey ?

I now have 5x130 and a parking brake !







Now on to some welding !

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...

[/quote]

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...
[/quote]

Its not the hub he's drilling, its the rotors. Carry on, it should not be an issues. Just set two points, mark and drill. The lugs do not place the rotor in a perfect alignment. The counter sunk screw does that. Just make sure one of them matches up. And a lug bolt matches up, and go for it.

Yes I will use my mill.

I now have one stiffie !







Just need to weld the end.

Is their good way to pull the bushing ? And replace it with rubber or ??. Will be going some track and fast driving.

Thanks, Randy

[quote name='914forme' date='Feb 11 2015, 12:47 PM' post='2144938']
[/quote]

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...
[/quote]

Its not the hub he's drilling, its the rotors. Carry on, it should not be an issues. Just set two points, mark and drill. The lugs do not place the rotor in a perfect alignment. The counter sunk screw does that. Just make sure one of them matches up. And a lug bolt matches up, and go for it.
[/quote]


My dad was a Machinist, and I make my living as a Mechanical Engineer. I've always been "belt AND suspenders" so any advice I give is coming from "overkill is just enough"....... My name is Brian and I have TRUST issues.....

New paint.





Hello, my name is Randy and I have a car building problem !

Looking at the rotor shield and found some cracking at the mounting holes. So I brazed some AN washers and should be go to go ?



Randy

I was doing some welding and I saw this on the bench. So it got welded also. May not need it but ?

All installed. 930 CV, cut Boxster Hub, and a 108 MM stub. Stock brake caliper and rotor drilled 5x130.







Randy

Cleaned up the front cross bar and added some paint.



Been thinking maybe I will test fit the coil-over idea and see if it will work ? Also thinking about the German VW vented rotors with the 5x130 ? I can get them for $450 +- with shipping. I'm finding the 911SC front ends are big $$$$ .

Back when I started this I could have had all for $750. Wish I had gotten it then.

I know the manual said to drive out the bearing and the hub but it beats the hub a little. So I built 2 drivers.

Installed the crossbar and found the 11/1971 and the 09/1974 don't use the same lower ball joint. So I got the 74 lower arm and installed it.

Test fit the coil-over idea I have and it is going to be very close. With stock Alum. wheels ! Think a 1/4" spacer would be best with stock fenders. Tires in photos are 195/60r15'

I will be adding the steel GT flairs and 7 or 8" front wheels and 8 or 9" rear. At this point I'm not sure what spacers if any will be needed and foresure don't know with the coil-over's in the front ?











But it looks like it will work !
Randy

And no, i'm not going to use a 300# spring on the front. And some idiot mounted directional tire on backwards ! What a dip stick.

Great job on the front/rear suspension parts. I powder-coated all of mine, and I wish I wouldn't have.

I was going to ask if you had calculated out the actual spring rate compared to the torsion bars you are replacing.

Stock 911 19mm is ~110 Lb/in These are an upgrade to a 914 btw.
21 mm ~ 175 Lb/in
22 mm ~ 210 Lb/in
23 mm ~ 250 Lb/in
24 mm ~ 300 Lb/in
25 mm ~ 350 Lb/in

I never calculated the stock 914-4 bar as I never ran them. I rounded the above numbers to match QA1 springs you can buy. You could go variable, as they make 100-200lbs/in and a 140-250lbs/in, and a 175-350lbs/in. Never thought about using them as I have always gone linear.

Stock 914 T-bars are ~90 lbs/in just to add that little bit. Again I rounded to a spring you might be able to get from Qa1

Thanks.

I was thinking that I would start with 200 F and 175 rear ?

I want to get the chassis with the new motor/trans and stuff first then check it on the scales. May give me a better idea about where to start ?
Randy

Look what I found . 2005 WRX tran's with LSD . COOL.





Also got yelled at by my Wife. So no EG33 for me. Just going to use the STI motor. Also going with MS3-pro. This should be interesting ?

Randy

Getting ready for my winter project. (914) Been a little off track with old project's.

Just finishing up a Rally Forester that I used the Sti motor in. Now I will need to look for another motor ? Did a Rally-X in Tucson and had a blast. Using this motor in a 914 will be so very "COOL" ! Still needs paint but that will come.



I will try to stay on point with the 914.
Randy

Didn't see this thread before. Very cool.

Now for a motor question. What about the EZ30. Because I need a motor was thinking how much I like the sound of the 6.

Good idea,bad idea? I will stay with Subaru so this is another option. Want the water cooled motor because I live in AZ.

Thanks for the input ! Randy

If your asking me I say EZ30 all the way. Sweet engine. I too wanted an EG33 until Bob (BIGKAT83) and Ian (coldwater,com) both steered me towards a EZ. Never regretted that decision. And yes, the sound is sweet, too!

I thought EG33's had the most pwr,..and that the EZ30's were way less pwr,..??? FM

The EG's do have more power and aftermarket parts. They are also longer and heavier. IIRC the EG is 230hp and the EZ is 212hp. The EZ series has a longer engine life, some say. I've no problems using the factory ECU w/ the EZ30D and the car runs quite well. My buddy Chris has been wrestling with his EG33 using a factory ECU. He thinks it could possibly be some engine monitoring devices are hay wire which he will confirm over this winter. So if your on the "EG33 w/ factory ECU bandwagon", stay tuned. Or, forget the factory ECU go MegaSquirt. I think the only thing you would lose is the cold start feature.

Go 3.6R Most HP from a stock sub -6

I am running a EG33, and yes they can make way more power over 1000 HP. That being said, the EZs make it easier to package in the engine compartment.

I have several EG33s now so I will be sticking with them for a while.

Are you driving or navigating? I have done a few rallies and getting a good navigator is key, who can understand timing, and not get sick. My wife is defiantly not a navigator.

Megasquirt has the cold start feature. I think my problem is the IAC valve is dirty but I'll check everything when I flip the intake around. Either that or the purge control valve solenoid which is clicking occasionally (and I don't even have the canister hooked up). I also just found out the stock air intake is pretty critical, so I'll switch back to that.

The difference between the EZ and the EG is only 20 hp. I've driven both in a 914 and I doubt you could tell which was which if you didn't know. One is definitely NOT way faster than the other in stock form. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff for the EG33, and it is a pretty cool looking engine. It's also very strong and overbuilt internally. That's pretty much it. The EZ is smaller, lighter, newer. And it has a timing chain, not a belt.

Ahh,..yea, if that's all,. then most likely a EZ is a better setup,..I must be looking in the wrong place for EG33 stuff,..I don't find much but headers and better fuel injectors,..how much is a mega squirt system,..out front quoted me 1800.00 for there stinger box and harness,..Iam so ready to go with a EG33 or the EZ,..but a EZ cost is most likely way higher ???,..can both engines be Camed for performance,.. FM

I'm a driver or at least I think I am ? LOL Been doing the Rally-X thing to start. Then we will see. Over built the car because that is what I do.

This info is great, keep it coming.

Most of the motors (EZ) don't seem to have harness's and ECU's so I was thinking Mega S ? Also do the JDM EZ have more power like some of the other JDM stuff ?

I think I remember reading that there is a performance chip for the EG33. As far as performance add-ons: John at OutFront would know if anyone. Also, his Stinger package ain't such a bad thing if you factor in your time.

You can megasquirt the EZ. Bob's (BIGKAT_83) was and it ran very well. Felt just like a stock Subaru (no jittering or weird quirks). If you search on the message boards over there you can find his comments. Just search for EZ30. If you have experience with it you can do the DIYPNP and save some cash.

The only thing I know about JDM engines is related to the EG33. It's not the engine, it's mostly the ECU. They are much simpler. More of a static map, no altitude correction, etc. There are also fewer controls. No EGR system, fewer solenoids and sensors to break, etc. Sometimes the rev limiter is higher. You can do whatever map you want with megasquirt and you will eliminate the extras I mentioned.

A very way off but does anyone know what color number this car was ?

Back on a build. But having trouble with what way to go ? Build the want-to be 914 GT or restart the kit car what-to-be a 908-3 ?

Today I got the center diff out and the adapter on and end plate. This tran's could go on ether car.

But I also have a 914 trans with a adapter, starter,flywheel for a Subaru. I have a non-Sti ,turbo motor on it.





Maybe save the Subaru trans for the tube car ???

Anybody know the answer to the color question ?

Got some parts in. Very nice !



But still trying to decide what way to go ? Use the 2.0 turbo with the 901 or sell that setup and go with a EZ30 and the MT5 ?

Ideas ?

MT5

MT5 = Manual Transmission 5 speed, think that is what Subaru calls it.

There really should not be a question at this time. MT5 MT5 MT5

And any Subaru you want

That trans is not 05 WRX. The giveaway is it's a push clutch and that starts in 06'.

There are no factory LSD in the US 5 speeds, did someone install one?