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hot_shoe914
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kkid
QUOTE(hot_shoe914 @ Dec 18 2013, 08:38 PM) *

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Hey shoe!

Thanks for dropping by.

Soon we will beerchug.gif

kkid smile.gif
David_S
Man .... I keep reading through this post and it still sounds like it is an ignition timing issue. I will soon be stabbing my distributor back in and I really hope that I dont have the hell that you have had !! I still think that if you pour fuel into the intake, you should have some kind of a reaction out of either the intake or the exhaust. It may be a backfire, but you should get some kind of reaction. If you dont get any reaction, then I would think that the timing is way out of whack. If it is crank/cam timing, then your compression would be off. If it is ignition timing, then your engine could be firing with the piston at the bottom of the stroke and you would get no reaction. I was doing some research for when I get ready for my engine, and I stumbled across this article. The second half had (in my opinion) more information for starting off than the first half. I hope it helps you out, and this problem is solved soon !!!!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm
Triaddave
I just got the 74/2.0 going last night. the problem was the injectors were not getting spark. tested with 4-nobs lights. the hot lead was disconnected...fixed that and it fired up. you can check the injectors with 3 volts (2 1.5 AA batterys taped together), listen for the "click". test each one and also check for ground at each one. then check the harness for current usuing the light(s). Then track back to trigger points and power...
kkid
QUOTE(David_S @ Dec 18 2013, 11:25 PM) *

Man .... I keep reading through this post and it still sounds like it is an ignition timing issue. I will soon be stabbing my distributor back in and I really hope that I dont have the hell that you have had !! I still think that if you pour fuel into the intake, you should have some kind of a reaction out of either the intake or the exhaust. It may be a backfire, but you should get some kind of reaction. If you dont get any reaction, then I would think that the timing is way out of whack. If it is crank/cam timing, then your compression would be off. If it is ignition timing, then your engine could be firing with the piston at the bottom of the stroke and you would get no reaction. I was doing some research for when I get ready for my engine, and I stumbled across this article. The second half had (in my opinion) more information for starting off than the first half. I hope it helps you out, and this problem is solved soon !!!!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm


Thanks for the link and advice. Will double check that as well.
You shouldn't have that kind of problems. I think I have a special case(engine). Never have a problem like this before.

Good luck on yours and Merry Christmas wreath.gif !

kkid smile.gif
kkid
QUOTE(Triaddave @ Dec 19 2013, 04:48 PM) *

I just got the 74/2.0 going last night. the problem was the injectors were not getting spark. tested with 4-nobs lights. the hot lead was disconnected...fixed that and it fired up. you can check the injectors with 3 volts (2 1.5 AA batterys taped together), listen for the "click". test each one and also check for ground at each one. then check the harness for current usuing the light(s). Then track back to trigger points and power...


Thanks for the idea of checking on the injectors. I think mines are good since they're from running car(who knows when the last the ones came with the motor were actually used).

Hope yours will run as it should and have no problems like mine.

Merry Christmas! wreath.gif

kkid smile.gif
kkid
Merry Christmas to all!

My engine now squeals like a big when turned. Thought it's a belt. So I removed the belt then turned the motor by hands. It still squeaks when the crank shaft goes up to little before TDC for either #1 or #3. It might be a fan that is touching the fan shroud. Because I removed it once to replace the seal(the builder did not change it!). I can check it by removing the fan and turn the crank the shaft by hands to see if it still makes noise. Maybe I can try to remove the impeller fan with the motor in the car. Will see....

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

kkid smile.gif

kkid
Update with news

Good: I am on the road again! smile.gif Damn it! How fun the car is!! driving-girl.gif

Bad: Still running with the old motor! Damn it!! smash.gif Don't tell my wife about it. sad.gif

Click to view attachment

Yes, I pulled the new motor out and put the old one back in there. That's the only way to get the car running at this point and started right up as usual.

The new motor still squeals (by hand rotations) even if it's out of the car, even with/without the fan. The internal noise seems to come out from of the case or between the case and head area. I now realized it cranked with the starter slower than normal. Will post the piggy squeal on youtube later.

This is what I did or changed/installed on the new motor(maybe more but as far as I remember).

1. New crankshaft seals f/r
2. New injector seals
3. Valve adjustment
4. Adjusted the end play and shimmed to the spec
5. New plugs
6. New ignition wires
7. New ignition points
8. New ignition condenser
9. Changed passenger side and corner engine sheet metals(motor came with sheet metal with holes for a/c compressor)
10. Changed hardware for alternator bracket
11. New fuel filter
12. Stainless fuel lines from Tangerine Racing
13. New fuel hoses
14. Rotated the dizzy drive gear to get a correct alignment
15. Static timing
16. New oil and filter
17. Primed the oil system prior to the starting
18. Recharged battery
19. New dizzy cap
20. New exhaust studs(6 out of 8) on the heads - the motor came with heat exchangers installed but 5 nuts were rusted and unable to loosen so had to take the nuts and studs all together then installed new ones. 1 stud was loose and looked to be glued with an epoxy like a JB weld!
21. Cleaned gas tank then installed a new sock and hoses underneath
22. Newer clutch assembly from other motor(less than 10k miles)
23. Alternator seal(rubber spacer)
24. Stainless engine sheet metal screws from 914rubber.com
25. Terry's accelerator cable
26. added TDC(white) and timing(red) marks on the other edge of the cooling fan
27. New seal and washers on taco plate
28. Readjusted fuel pressure @ 29PSI+ with a gauge
29. New intake runner hoses
30. Disconnected cold start valve fuel hose for fuel pressure gauge
31. don't remember...

My advice --- Don't buy a motor that has never been fired up or tested. It may not run like mine. Even if it's rebuilt it may not run specially if it's a resale item that a seller has no idea how it's built. Buy an engine that is still on a car or with a recent bench test result.

Now what should I do with the motor? Should I take it to Mark to examine? Well, my time and money were well spent for this phase.

I believe the seller won't take it back after we found out it has a failure. So I will tear it down to find out the problem and rebuild myself.
My journey will begin.

Thanks for reading.

Have a great day!

kkid smile.gif

kkid
Hey guys!

Spring is here. So I started working on my poor motor today.

Someone gave me a suggestion that the squeak noise maybe caused by a dropped dizzy drive gear washer in the case.

So I took the gear out to see if the washer is still with it. Yep, the washer came out with no problem. It wasn't dropped in this case. Does the gear look OK for you guys?
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment


I also tuned the flywheel a few cycles by hand again. It's not hard to turn with the all spark plugs removed. But there is a noticeable hardness at a point in the revolution. Somehow the squeak noise seems to have disappeared today.

Where should I go from here?

kkid smile.gif





stugray
A squeal sounds like the fan is rubbing the housing.
kkid
QUOTE(stugray @ Mar 28 2014, 08:50 PM) *

A squeal sounds like the fan is rubbing the housing.


Nope, tested without the fan once. But it still squealed at that time. It was like a critter in the case.
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