That is really nice. I hope you work your way around the whole car so we can replace all the exterior lighting with LED's.

Jerry, are you still going to produce the non-blanking style?

Yes, the board is set up to bypass the blanking circuit. Price will be $130 ($10 less than blanking boards)

Cool


Ready when you are

I will take a US non-blanking set.

I'm in too...

Bought a light meter to better analyze the output of the lights. Seems to work pretty well.

Click to view attachment

The first lights I looked at where these ones for my 930. They are similar to the 914 brake lights but with 48 LEDs vs 56 LEDs on the 914 brake.

Click to view attachment

I measured the light output in LUX on the standard bulb and the LED board from about 4 ft away in the garage at night. The opposite light, the center brake light, and the license plate lights were covered up. I measured at 3 angles: 0, 15, and 30 degrees.

Here is the comparison of the 930 taillights. The LED drops off pretty quickly from center but starts at a much higher intensity. This focused intensity of the LEDs was pointed out by some folks.

However, the center relative intensity of the LEDs (directly behind vehicle) for the taillights is over 6x that of the bulb.

Click to view attachment

This is a comparison of the brake lights on the 930. Here the same profile is evident. Directly behind the vehicle the relative intensity of the LEDs is 3.5x that of the bulb.

Click to view attachment

I tried to put this information into a format which would directly relate to the light pattern behind the vehicle. This graph shows the brake light pattern as viewed from above the vehicle. The intensities are 1x, 2x, and 3x of the standard bulb.

The driver directly behind the vehicle would see 3x intensity of the bulb.

A driver in the next lane at 10FT left or right from the vehicle about 25FT behind the vehicle would see an intensity about 2x of the standard bulb. This assumes the driving lane is 10ft wide.

Click to view attachment

That is great data. The key is even with a more drastic drop off the output of LEDs stay above that of the bulb at all times (if I read you right).

Well done.

Can I get a set of US blanking please.

Pete

I will take a set of US with the blanking please.

I'm in for a set of US Blanking

Since I'm getting up there in age, I'm thinking that 'blanking out' during a left-hand turn probably isn't a good thing

I would like to get my grubby little hands on set of F&R LEDS. SPOKE, the work you have done here is appreciate by so many. I have been following this thread for a long time and am finally ready to buy up a set when you have them for sale. Please PM me with details to purchase.

Thanks

Marginally better than blacking out.

An update: It is finally on!

Front and rear boards have been ordered with expected delivery 1st week of Jan. Will be ordering parts next week and should start building 2nd week in Jan.

As before, we'll work through PM's and a group buy thread to be created. I won't do a website or other mass purchase procedure as these boards are assembled one by one and we can't handle more than a couple folks at a time. No funds will be requested/accepted until we can build your boards. To speed up the process, I have a colleague lined up to build boards with me.

The only thing that is "group buy" about this process is the boards have to be purchased in quantity. Assembled boards take a lot of time and I try to keep the time between payment and shipping to a minimum. Even then it's still about 2 weeks between payment/shipping.

Purchase/building will be done first come-first served. I'll start with folks who PM'ed me before and/or responded to this thread first. We just can't build quantities of these boards fast so please be patient.

3 pairs of the prototype front LEDs have been install in 914's so far. This includes mine and 2 others.

Here's some pics from mikesmith's install. He has the euro lens and his boards do blanking of the running lights when the turnsignals are on.

All that is needed for install are a screwdriver (here a large phillips head for the lens and small one for the board screws) and maybe a or 2.

Click to view attachment

The board with both clips attached. The attachment of the front board was more complex than the rears. This PCB won't actually clip in but be held in position by the clips.

Click to view attachment

The bulb base is installed to the original bulb location. One thing we'll try to resolve is the difficulty installing the bulb base to the socket. These sockets tend to get really oxidized with a lot of crud build-up making the install difficult. A couple of folks had issues with the rear bulb bases.

Click to view attachment

The board is installed. The top clip basically holds the board at the correct height and the bottom clip helps keep the board level by exerting pressure on the board to the bucket when the lens is attached.

Notice the RTV applied to each LED to absorb some of the vibration and to keep the LEDs in place during shipping and installation.

Click to view attachment

A comparison of the original bulb and the LED board. Light comparisons are difficult to convey with pics since cameras tend to auto-balance the shutter speed based on the light received and the light output of LED are extremely directional.

The original bulb in running light setting:

Click to view attachment

The LED running lights:

Click to view attachment

The LED turnsignal:

Click to view attachment

Looks great!

http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/2012/11/take-my-money.gif

Looking good, Jerry

I'm ready for a pair of non-blanking ones when you're ready to start shipping

Question: I currently have a pair of Craig's parking light kits that have a plastic separator between the turn signal and parking light segments in the bucket. Do we need to install some sort of separator to keep illumination from the LEDs from bleeding over?

Those look very nice. Can you post a video of the blanking and non blanking operation please.

Still in for US front's and rears, this is exiting!

GREAT news, I'll start saving my pennies for the front and rear sets.

The separator will not be necessary and may interfere with the PCB. The light output of the LEDs is very directional. For this reason, the LEDs are mounted at an angle on the board to point directly in front of the vehicle.

Here's the blanking version during bench testing. You'll notice the running lights blank immediately when the turnsignal comes on and remains off about 1 second after the last turnsignal blink.

On today's cars the running light comes on immediately after the turnsignal is released. They can do that as everything now is controlled by processors. There is no such signal on the 914 so I wait about a second after each turnsignal blink before turning on.

Sorry I don't have a non-blanking board to show.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRBFT2LwVhc

So when do you think you'll be shipping these baby's out?

OK, I see how it works now. Thanks for posting that. I can't wait until it is time for me to buy these, front and rear for my car. I hope by then you have an LED side marker setup too.

The boards will arrive just after the new year. I will order parts next week so we will be able to start assembling boards in the 2nd week of Jan.


I did have a clip of the non-blanking front turnsignal. The clip also compares the LED turnsignal on the passenger side to the standard bulb on the driver side.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y2HTTtBjG8

I have a couple refurbed signal buckets I can donate to the cause if you need them. Just send me a PM with your address.

In for a set of the Euro non-blanking (Euro option 2). If I could only run the the white DRLs when the ignition is switched on. Guess I could jump the whites to the ignition, or rig a switch. Or just run with my tail lights on all the time. Hmmm Any way, very well done!

I am in for one set of option 2) Euro lens blanking to add to the rear LED lights I already have.

Still in for Euro-blanking fronts. And, if you're still making rears, I'm still in for a set of those, too.

These are way cool. Any chance you'll add the required flasher and turn this into a complete package deal? If so, I'd be in for a '74 mod with dual dash indicators.

Many thanks in advance. You da man! A true award winning contributor.

Rob

I would love to see a package deal that included front turn sigs (I want to go with the blanking euro lens fronts), rear turn signals (USA lenses version), and side marker lights.

I like that the blanking euro-fronts really make the turn signal stand out by turning off the running light lower before the turn signal activates.

What can you do for the side marker light? I wish someone could/would make a side marker replacement lens that was much closer to the body instead of being like 1.5" in depth. Assuming that is a pipe dream, I still want the side markers to be LED and function as running lights and turn signals. A guy can dream.....

Spoke- You have made an outstanding product for our cars that enhances their visibility, improves safety and reduces the electrical draw to power these lights. Your modification also updates the lighting to make the cars look nicer too when the lights function. I fully plan on converting to LED headlights to further that improved electrical safety and reduce the electrical draw to make the headlights bright. Thanks again for all of your time and effort- truly a great contribution to the 914 community.

I used two of these - you can see them in the shots that Spoke posted:

http://www.dx.com/p/g4-3w-110lm-led-yellow...dc-8-30v-156534

Click to view attachment

Remove the pins, solder some small wires from the pads to the contacts, then a little RTV to hold the module in place.

If you want to make the markers flash with the turn signals, you can use the Modifry modules:

http://www.modifry.com/index.php?route=pro...p;product_id=75

I would not mount these "under the fender" on a 914; the screw terminals really need to be protected from moisture and dirt. Inside the front bucket is probably a good location if you don't mind fiddling the wiring on the back of the bucket (you need a get a wire out for the sidemarker).

You could also use something like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-Amber-LED-Eagl...dc7&vxp=mtr

Click to view attachment

after removing the contacts from the stock housing.

The top one looks like a fried egg

I like the second choice ... I may just order some

Thanks for posting

Please post pictures if you do; they look like they could be a very simple drop-in to the existing housing.

Ordering parts now. Should have everything by next week to start building.

Let the fun begin.

I am excited!

Me too. Not quite ready for the install just yet; too much rust to take care of first.

It's the little things like this that keeps me going. Great hindsight. Many thanks in advance.

Great!

Just finished reading this entire thread, great product!

Too broke right to commit, hopefully in 6 months or so you'll be doing another batch for both ends of the car!

Measured the output of the US front LED board compared with the standard bulb. The meter reads out in LUX.

Here's the setup used. The power to the LED board and bulb is 14V. Both were measured with running lights and turnsignal.

With running lights on, the bulb burned 8W (0.6A) while the LED burned 1W (0.07A).

With turnsignal on, the bulb burned 26W (1.9A) while the LED burned 5.5W (0.4A)

I took light measurements at eye level being 0, 10, 20, 30, and 45 degrees off of the front of the bucket; each measurement 4 feet away from the bucket.

Click to view attachment

These LEDs are 23 degree devices. All boards made will have 30 degree LEDs to further widen the intensity in front of the car.

Here's a comparison of the running lights. The LEDs are a bit over 8x more intense in front of the vehicle and remain brighter even 45 degrees off center.

Click to view attachment

The LED turnsignal intensity is over 6x as intense as the bulb at 0 degrees. The LEDs have a nice wide angular intensity profile which is good as the turnsignals in the front will be bright for cars off the road waiting to enter in front of a 914 or when changing lanes.

Click to view attachment

This graph is an attempt to show the light pattern in front of the car. The lines indicate where the LEDs are 6x, 3x, and 1x the intensity of the bulb.

Click to view attachment

That's exactly the kind of brightness these little cars need to be seen. Excellent work. I can't wait to buy a complete set for my car. Scotty is working away and hopefully soon I will be able to buy a set.

Switching to the EP36 flasher. After driving the car a bit. The flasher indicator only flashes left or right once. Then goes to a slow dim blip on both. Rear LEDs seem to still run fine.

I assume the ground wire arrangement will manifest itself when I get there. The special lug will go on the incoming wire harness for the flasher socket?

What did you do with the wire that was on the K/C lug on the original flasher? This is the one that goes to the common connection of the indicators. This is the one that must be grounded with the EP36.

PM me if you want me to send you one of the piggyback adapters for this wire. Without grounding the wire from K/C, the indicators will not work properly.

Thanks for posting the results, Jerry.

Now, stop typing and get back to soldering

Trying to figure out where you want us to attach the common to the ground.
1973.
EP36 with piggyback terminal.

Click to view attachment
Here's the flasher relay arrangement.

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Here's socket for the relay. How do I get to the ground wire with the
relay seated in the socket?

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Here's the common wire on the back of the tach.

This is the first time I've seen the connection of the flasher relay. The piggyback connectors will not work unless the connector is cut apart to reveal the individual wires.

So what would be better here is one of those crimp-on jumpers to connect the 2 wires together.