Well, still on it. Worked on the hood to eliminate the headlamp doors. I, know, it took me a while to convince myself to do it. The pop up headlamps are a great feature, but.

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Took the filler pieces from a spare hood, and tried to cut for a perfect fit. lots of measuring, yet still off a bit.

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I found that to achieve the correct angles, and keep the front lip correct, I needed to add a little.


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Weld on!

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The underside still needs some work, but heres a look at the top. The front lip lines up nice across the hood. I'm happy.

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Now, as far as the headlamp relocation, been doing a bit of work on that idea. Also need to install correct size studs for the front wheels, touch up a bit of errors in my welds, and general catch up all around. Thanks for taking a look.


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Man you are making great progress, and it looks great!

Nice hood work there

Thanks everybody,

I have slowed down a bit with cold weather, but not stopped. But as winters go it's a light one for Michigan. I have been thinking on the headlamp's, but going for the interior swap next.

Right now it has a early "smooth leather" interior from my 1st car, a 71, that I rode in 40 years ago, and have been riding on, and off, over the years. It's in excellent condition. But!

I'm installing a 70 black leatherette set that's from the car I just sold last year as a roller, owned it for 38 years. This set also includies the seats, and back pad, and was made from a thicker materials than any other car I've owned. It was a early 70. It's in perfect condition, that car only saw about 70,000 miles.

Setting up for a busy weekend or two.

Change in plans. Im back working on the headlamps. I love the stock lamps, great idea. So I still wanted pop up's, well at least motorized. OK flip downs in the bumper face. And some kind of cover when the lamps are off.
S
Started with location for motor in relation to motor, and keeping it all very low, and concealed in the trunk.


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Test box build to the specs of the opening. Relocating the motor location and clearance.

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Cut out the original mount for the motor, and reworked it to fit the project.

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Right and left sides roughly done.

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Okay, this looks really interesting....

Thank you, and on with the show

Positioning the location and locating mounting points, swing room ect. When fitting them in.
Found that not only that the motor position could be improved, I also tried many heights as far as fitting in the factory opening thats for a fog lamp. First went so that the complete lamp would show. Then realized that the appearance would be poor. So same size lamp, and 80% opening to shine through. Wont see the top bit of the lens.

Work in progress.

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Made up first linkage incorrectly since the relocation, so need to do one a bit longer.

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Item view.

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Interesting! I take it you dont have headlight height laws in michigan?

I have thought about that, and have a solution in mind! Not to limit the though, but between after dusk driving, and having it addressed by law inforcement, the solution only needs to be somewhat minimal. More to come......

Is this the stock vs turbo tie rod?

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Yes and theres a picture of it installed also.

...........I must have missed the installed pic...can you re post it?

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Here is a idea that I tried, and it worked. The tool is used for heating material for repairing cuts or marks in seats. I only used a piece of cloth under the coin sized heated part of the tool. Moving it around in small circles over the damage for about 40 sec. After a few minuets the dent lifted up almost flush!

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Headlamps on hold, still working out the bugs.
On the interior, I changed out a early "sinning leather" for an early "leather". I like the more flat sheen of the now installed interior.

As I said the headlamps are going slowly, but I am making progress. The interior I had stored for years, was warped on the corners of the back pad, and the door panels also needed some work.

Here is the "shinny leather", and all its flaws, and a close up of the less gloss, and thicker mill, "leather"

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Steam seemed the best idea, so out with the tea pot and after steaming a few times, and blocking out. worked out well.
Also changed out the top padding and fiber board strip only, the rest of the panel held up well.

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Finishing up

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Using a early interior, living in the 70's, well early 70's!


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Original riveted handle, still attached.

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Early interior, requires a early drivers seat. lots of room to reach an early hand brake.

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No changes to dash.

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Headlamps have become a daunting task. Each time I think I have it right, I over think it and start again. The housing is not square, the tuBe for the monts is on a angle. When rotating the housing the geometry changes. I'm getting close, and looking at additional lamps in the turn signal buckets.

I found disscustion about turbo tie rods, well what I got from eBay a few years back looks now to be fake. So....I got a set for a great price here on the form and installed them correctly. Much better with the steering stops, and now I have the bellows to.

A lot of catch up and correction this month. Found the front spacers were to large, poor clearance to the fender. Originally I had 10mm in the rear, and 20 in the front. 10 all around should work, waiting on the new front spacers to arrive.

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Spent free time on the flares, and valances. Little body filler, and texture finish on the valances, filler and primer on the flares. Still working on the front end and lighting.


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Lookin good! That texture is nice!

After seeing how nice they turned out I may consider it for mine.

thats what I love about build threads, getting ideas and products I would have never tried.

Keep up the great work.

When spraying the Transtar, you can achieve different textures, with distance, and speed. I sprayed 3' away, fast sweeps multiple coats, with full pressure on the nozzle. Multiple coats, from different distances, over the trim black, is very close to factory.

They look good to me, but I have had them turn out closer to factory look in the past. Pratice before spraying pays off.

Thank you to all that are following, and or commenting.

I agree that to be leagal the motorized original lamps I the fog lamp location won't do. So, I am adding HELLA Micro DE Series 12V/35W Xenon Driving Lamps to the turn buckets.

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I have seen this size lamp added by others here, thanks for the inspiration.

First I turned the bucket upside down, this will allow me and I use the factory sockets for the turn and running lamps. I had already modified the housings with the 2nd socket.

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Plotting out the locations, and making many cuts, and lots of time with the file, to minimize the size of the hole.

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Used wax to figure out the size and shape of the scoop from the lens to the lamp.

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Added a bracket to the driving lamp, so it mounts to the fender independent of the buckets. I'll use a flexible seal between the two from moisture and vibration. This way I will still be able to adjust the lamp direction using the adjustment screws.

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Cutting the lens. Tried hole saw and metal, and wood drills. Heat was a idea but discoloration was a problum. I think I could have got the lens to the correct temp, but hard to control even temp across the lens. So I am going with a wood drill, and saw blade.

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Here I go

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I can't bear to look.......That wood bit could snag and break the lens real easy.

You might want to try a hole saw instead.

Good luck.

Slow, and easy......don't want the bit to heat up. Just shaving my way along.

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yea, get a real hole saw.

Amen, but the pilot bit will want to pull into the plastic very quickly as it is a std bit. Plastic drill bits have a very acute angle (135 degree IIRC) which keeps it from pulling thru too quickly resulting in a broken plastic piece. So yes, a hole saw is best but pre-drill the pilot hole with a bit made for plastic or recess the pilot bit enough so that it doesn't bite into the material too early. Aircraft Spruce sells these bits if you can't find them locally.

Start to finish 10 minutes per cut. Shaving off just a layer at a time. Works even when overlapping a prior cuts. If you cut to fast, you will see the plastic turn white. You want to cut, not melt.
Then saw, and file. Light sand, and polish.
Mounting and wiring next.

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Too scary for me... ;-)

Well done!

Now, how you going to seal water out?

Thinking brutal, but can make a mess. So working on rubber seals.
From scrap 914 weather striping, and seals.

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Looking good interested in how the rockers look completed now that they are textured and fit against the flares.. I might go this way versus using the fiberglass rockers I have currently.

REALLY nice lighting

Awesome headlight solution!

But... Why did you mount the headlight cover upside down?

Those are definitely some "mad" skills you have my Man.
Well done.
You are in a league of your own.
Nothing like this has ever been done.

Thank you all, I have the running and turn lamp in the bottom hafe, and wanted to keep them amber. Thinking of adding daytime running/marker in the top. Without cutting the lens, anymore.

Also stuck with stock white for headlamp souronds.

I ran in to a bit of a problem when starting my build engine, so I went to the "Garage"

LINK:
> Oil filter bulge, like Jiffy Pop, Fresh Engine first start, help! Michigan Build, 2016 Build-Off


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I'm Back from the "Garage" engine is running great. 25 minutes at around 2000 rpm. No oil leaks. Now to swap out the drivetrain. She sounded strong, with that cam.


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First here is a few pictures of my home powder coating I did a few years ago. used a small oven, and home gun set up.

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Been busy. After the oil pressure concern was solved Garage postings

Also a few of engine exterior build up.

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I moved the engine on to the trailer, yard trailer.

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Out with the old stock 1.7 still running well, after 40+ years, and 5 different cars.

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slowly down and away.


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Still on its way out.

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A few items I had waiting for this it next service.

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Here we go….new power, I have used that 1.7 and am used to its power, this should be good.


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installed a jumper to fool the fuel pump relay.

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Fuel pump and filter. Regulator also set at 2.5psi. First pump I installed failed, so had to route this twice.

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Also jumper to the 12 volt plug.

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Starter wired up.

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Finish up the cables and a few other things Ill be set to go.

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First start in car looks good, the oil pressure is 42. And no leaks. 3rd road test WOW oil everywhere.

Restart and oil pours out like a faucet.

Cause, thick washers for the oil cooler to mount were installed between the cooler and the block. By me. Ug. They should be out side the cooler with the lock washer, and nut. In turn the seal won't seal! major oil leak, at 42 psi.

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Big day for sure, great job. I lost a Black and Decker Workmate once doing close to the same extraction method. So just be careful, I like the idea though.

Well that took a while. Now I need to decide if I drop the engine to replace those seals or do I try to remove the cooler while the engine is in the car.?