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The start:
2016 Build-Off
Here I go!

I purchased the car on eBay in 1999 site unseen, and only two polorid's in the post. Looked great, sitting in a empty dusty old garage. I ask lots of questions, original paint? Factory new looking wheels? History, on and on.

He couldn't tell me anything about the car, his buddy owned it and he new nothing.
Singed over ownership 6 mts ago. He did say looks like a great car, and knows it was fast. Says 2.0 on it. 400 miles away, a buddy with a flat bed, it was worth the risk. Price was right.

On arrival, I'm on it, all over the car. Long story short the thrill is gone!
Repaint in somebody's garage, 50 footer, or a polorid. Rear end hit, hard, car pushed into something damaged the left front. Right front damage, not to bad.
Engine runs on 2 cylinders, yet it is a 2.0, with carbs. Must have been the reason for the FIRE in the engine bay. One head is trashed from the fire, and theirs nothing else to talk about, except the A/C system they must have got on eBay and hacked into the car.

(Key words: eBay, "was" fast, Polorid, and risk)

I swapped in a 1.7 and a tail shift 2.0 exchangers with triad exhaust. 1971 complete interior (had one). Plus just about every other trim part. Polished the paint, cleaned up the wheels, and I drove it. Now it's time to fix It.

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MICHIGAN BUILD


(Short monthly update posts) @ Contest Link


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1973 Red 1.7

5 Major Tasks to complete during the Challenge:

1. Replace back half of rear trunk floor. (Rusted, rear ended, poorly patched)


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& Replace entire rear body panel, and Bumper. (Rear ended, poorly repaired)


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& Patch in 1/2 left front fender. (Poorly repaired)


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2. Delete headlamp doors, modify hood, and relocate headlamps.


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3. Install 4 steel flares, and modify all valances. 5 lug, and wheel tire package.


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4. Build up, and replace engine.
Installed now:

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With:
1.7 914 Engine balanced
260 x 396 Cam .006
96mm Big Bore kit
Mallory Unlite Distributor 14004
Weber 40 DCNF (w/ very short intakes)
Air jet 1.80 Main 1.25
2.0 L exhaust
Work in progress replacement.

5. Major interior renew.

Still need to finish the engine, and start it. Purchased here from a member a few years ago.
I have a 2nd 914 that I'm also working on, and been a owner of many since the 70's. I do all my own work. My enjoyment time.

I replaced the hoods with ones of better quality, reason for primer. Got started on this last weekend.

Remove the rear trunk have, and tail panel.
Look at the amount of weld they used and lots of filler. No to mention the extra layer of sheet metal.

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The tail was cut in hafe and re welded back, In turn the the panel holding the tail lights was flat across. No curve to meet the trunk.
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Used air punch from H.F. Worked very well. Lots of welds to do.
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the tail and hood are from a green 70 (in the data base)

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Nice looking job. You will have a nice 914 when you get her done. Keep up the good work.

Thanks Michael.

Well I rough trimmed and fitted the tail section, and worked on removing the glue for the carpeting. What a pain!
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Started cutting for the headlamps, and as I was putting this on the scrap pile I thought.....
This should be the teener torch.

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Relocating the headlights wondering what you have in mind.

I think that snow picture should be considered for the calendar.

If you have a high resolution version (8" by 10", at around 300 DPI) you should submit it - http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=265151

The headlamps are going to a challenge in it self. I have a few ideas, fixed in the bumper opening, and reshape the bumper lower edge for room, and along the top edge of the valance. Also was looking into retractable, also in the bumper. More to come on this.

One other idea I have that's not listed in my build list. That is to rake the roof, a bit. What do you think? And have seen drastic rake of the roof, but I thinking just a bit like this. Just chop the roll bar 2 inches, adjust the body work to meet the targa top, and Windows. Not a cut and paste job. No metal roof.
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Scraped all carpet, glue and some seam sealer. .
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Then paint remover, and a rinse
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My 73 build off challenge car. "Michigan Build"

Sep 2015 now the Build off car.
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And At the Midwest classic in 2004
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My inspirations for this build.
The one I sold, 27 years ago.

My 914 back in "80's sold in "88 Started as a club racer, then back to driver. Owned this one for ten or more years.
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The garage were I did all the work.
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Converted back to road car
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Club racing it in Oakland Michigan 1970-80
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The black car we have all seen.
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Nice Work John

I always thought your Red 1.7 looked great to me.
Admire your skills and work ethic

Mike

John,
Who made your rear trunk floor patch panel?

Right here:


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Great products! They have molds. Family owned company.

Humm. I have the same one, but mine does not have that lip over the cross brace. It just runs out straight. Did you fold it over to make the flange for the spot welds? Did you drill and weld in a nut in the cross brace, or just go with out it?

I bent the lip, and made the flange. I did not add the nut. Just be sure to line it up tight, before you decide where to bend. And that the small center cap fits the width.
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You might consider striping all the paint off the inside of the rear panel, and priming most of it prior to welding that piece in...
it will be easier to treat the small areas of rust with the panel out as well -

Looking good!!

Thank you,

Update:
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Weld primer only where needed, expensive stuff.
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Printing found on the factor metal.
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Very little experience at welding, but improving.
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About 250 welds.
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Finished up the rear early steel bumper. Needed to close up the holes from where some PO drilled to mount tits on a early bumper. I also used a wheel to knock down the weld, disc to removed 80% more, then a flapper disc to finish. Buy the time I get to the fenders, I think I will feel confident that they will turn out nice.

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I'm looking at bumper hole filling in my future too, was the chrome already off of yours? Or did you remove it? If you removed it, how did you do it? Thanks.

This was never chromed, was steel painted black when new.

Welded the rear fenders on, and the left front fender patch.
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Getting cold in Michigan.

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When lining up the fenders I start at the bottom of the fender and line up the bottom edge to the same height as the stock fender.

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Cutting a wedge and angling out the valance mount channel.

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Im learning as I go.

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And did the right side.

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The left front fender patched in.

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Now Ill move on to the fronts and the valances as I move forward.

Did you purposefully make a notch in your front patch for your clamp?

Your work so far looks very good!

Thank you

Yes, and the notch will be gone when I add the flare.

i finished up the front fenders, and the 3 of the 4 valances. Lots of time with the hammer on the fenders to keep the welds flat.

Heres the fenders, and the change to the bottom before installing.
( for some of you, yes I still have and use my Mid-west cup)
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Nice Work!

The side valance has to be more then bent to fit. Just bending would cause it to move down also. So I start with a cut, and a wedge.

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Then out come the close up lens for slightly improving my vision.

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Hammering the curve to reach a bit of a curve.

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Need to change the angle of the lip on all , due to the wedge added change. I want these to line up correctly with the fenders.

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Done with the side's. I feel that they will work out fine, with out having to do to much fabricating. I wanted to keep it simple, with a little flare!

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I was sure to think 10 times, measure twice, and cut once.
I could have cut paper templets, and built it all up first, but in the end I find
you always custom fit and work each corner for a good fit.

Nice Work, looking very good.

Now for the rear. I have a snow plow/scoop and have all ready modified it to a duel port. So same as with the side valances, need to use a wedge shape.

The rear valance.

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Had to check fit to the car, many times.

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Clean up the first weld.

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And the second weld.

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Working the edge to fit the curve of the fender.

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And the last adjustment and fit.

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3 done:



Just arrived 2 weeks ago, and center caps at Christmas.

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Now onto the 5 lug conversion.

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And seeing if my calculations were correct, on these I just got mounted up. I know I should have gotten the rims and tires first, but went on with carful measuring and fitting when installing the fenders. I think I got it correct based on this.

5" 13/16s inside clearance on the factory Fuchs
6" On the Euromiester


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about 1/4" more on the inside. The 9" wheel, (Stock 5.5) that leaves 3 1/4 outside. Flares should add 2", Stock clearance is around 1" and I can work the lip for the last 1/4. Thats the plan…..at least for the rear.

The front may require a spacer or a slight rework, to fit the also 9" rims up there.
going with 9's, for the 1st time, on all 4.


Happy New Year!

All 3 done, now to change to 5 lug. And Turbo tie rod ends. I'll do the front valance when I attract the headlamps.

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Great metal work there! That looks very well done!

Nice work, looks like quick progress!

Looks good, can't wait to see the finished product.

Hey, Nice exhaust. give me the serial number off the left flange (TW OOO) and I can give you some history on that... dave @ triad

I like how you didn't complain about the original disappointment with the car. Didn't bullshit around and just dealt with the restoration and build. Good onya.

Dave,

I'll have to one up you on that. I purchased this from you back around 03. As I recall you had lived in Michigan and we're coming for a visit during the dream cruise.
I talk up my Traid every time, it's sound great, and it is a fantastic quality build.

Not sure on the build date, but it was around 03. Thing is, don't think it will ever ware out. Any other history on this one would be appreciated. It a 2.0 used with 2.0 headers, on a 1.7 engine, fits beautiful.

Thanks,
John

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I agree, nice metal work . You make it look WAY too easy.

Nice work and great pics! Following along in case I ever work up the courage to flare my car.

Back at it over the last few weeks, installed 5 Lug package from PMB Performance. Pressed in new bearings, and seals. Turbo tie rod ends, rack spacers, and shorter firmer springs and shocks.


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Also went with a pair of old front calipers I had from the 70's these are Girling calipers, that were tested for use on some VW's. Had to trim the calipers a bit to fit the rotors. But they mount right up to the strut housing, no adjustment required.

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I will be using spacers 2mm rear, and 15-20mm front. Trimmed the lip of the rears looks like all will clear fine.

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very nice work sir, very nice.

Wow John,

I am very impressed with what you have accomplished on your build!!

Congratulations, keep up the good work!

Vysoc

It looks like the same "hack" did my rear trunk and damage repair as yours. Some people shouldn't work on cars or own tools. Thanks for sharing your repair. It has motivated me to dig into mine and get it fixed. Your detailed pictures really helped clear up some of my concerns.

Put together the rear struts. Old pair of Koni red adj, and new welt 140 lb springs.

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Got a little bit done last night, put the drop links in with new bushings. Heated up the bushings in water, and pressed them in A bit sideways, till they popped in. Then big pliers to squeeze on to the studs.

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Heated up the wheel studs a bit to be able to remove them, losses the lock tight. Then moved the long ones up front, and the shorts to the rear. Shorts are still a bit to short , need to order additional 10 more.

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Was able to mount all 4 wheels, and completely lower the lift. Everything clears fine. Till I'm road worthy I'll have to wait on exact spacer size, but I'm very close.

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Still to go:

Finishing touches on the flares, and valance bodywork
Headlight doors delete
Headlights added to new location
Interior swap out.
Replace both doors
Engine build up, and replace


I have added a few extra tasks to my original build list of 5.
This happens all the time, one reason my projects always take so long. But This time I'll have to draw a line, thanks to a dead line.

Of course I'm sure I'll find more to do, other then drive it, after 9-14-16.

Nice work. Fat rubber.