That _is_ with the valves opening. You can see indentations from the valves in each of the clay strips. Why would one clay the heads except with valves operating?

Did you measure cam lobe lift before you installed the cam?
Just curious.

And the valve clearance seems a little close @ 2mm.
That is ~.080.
I seem to recall someone telling me they liked no less than .120, but I would have to check my notes, so don't quote me yet.

And my final length on pushrods was 269.5mm (10.61 in.)

sorry for the OT request: can you post a pic of your Ducati frontend setup. i'm curious what you did to the caliper mount(s). I tried to zoom into the pics but it's either covered or blurry.

Just got my WebCam #494 and measured lobe lift at .345".
WEB card says valve lift is .465" so they assume a rocker ratio of 1.347

In most of my experiences degreeing T4 cams and setting geometry the intake ratio came in around 1.33 and the exhaust around 1.29.

For years most cam manufacturer used a factor of 1.3 for intake and exhaust.

When we prep heads we set valve spring coil bind limits for any given cam based on my findings.

Thank you!

You might recall my thread about rocker ratios.
I got my ass chewed by people telling me "Just use 1.3 like everyone else!"

They must not understand that to get within the 5% valve lift that Jake advertises that you MUST achieve (that is 0.05) you need more than TWO significant figures!

So there is a big difference between 1.29 & 1.33 when trying to calculate valve lift to THREE significant figures.

And my webcam 86b has an advertised valve lift of 0.500/0.500
I measured the cam lobe lift before installation and got 0.365/0.365
So for them to make a cam with 0.365 lobe lift and advertise 0.500 valve lift (.500/.365 = 1.37) they used 1.37 for their rocker ratio.

I installed the cam and measured .504/.475 so the rocker ratio in my engine is closer to 1.38 I/1.30 E.

Happy to post Duc pics. I made the Brembo mounts such that I could go back to the APs if ever needed, keeps value in the bike. The forks were not modified at all. I think they are kinda fugly, but they sure do work. Note that the pads don't sweep the entire rotor so there is some rust that develops on the inside "ring" of the rotor. Scotchbrite was invented to fix that. Pic...

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Powder coating finally done. I think it all turned out pretty nicely. Still gonna be awhile till it runs. I still need a dizzy, going to ceramic coat the header/muffler (Bursch), and the dual Dells need to have the CB update kits installed along with complete rebuild.

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Dear God, that's one awesome bike!

More PC pics...

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She is a beauty, thanks. And good lord you should hear it run with the Conti pipes.

There's your punishment for subjecting my eyes to that eyesore. Please (please) post a video of it running (please).

My Triumph 955i Daytona has the factory carbon high pipe and factory race tune, which sounds great. But in terms of class, it doesn't come close to your old Duc.

Coating looks good. Did you disassemble the two halves of the shroud or have it coated as one piece?

Fan shroud was completely disassembled, cleaned and blasted, then reassembled for powder coat. It was coated all as a single piece with sacrificial hardware (screws) holding it together. It'll get disassembled again, all threaded holes will be chased with a tap, and then stainless allen heads will be used for final assembly. The stainless hardware is not stock, but this aint no concourse build...

Yes she is and thank you for the pics! I have been on Ducs for +20 years but never on a bevel. Building and riding custom bikes keeps me unfortunately from finishing my teener.
And now back on track with your awesome build!

Are you missing some tin?

Don't believe so. I just did a complete mock-install with it all today, and all is accounted for. The rear plate is not in the picture but I have it. Now if I could just find all of the rubber bits I need (Alt cooling elbow and a half dozen grommets for wiring harness(es)...

Looked like you were missing one of the under cylinder head pieces. Maybe I just didn't see it.

I have them both, they are sandwiched together in the pic. Good eyes...

Lots of work completed today. Fan shroud assembled, all engine tins test fit. I am really happy with the powder coat on the tins. Using anti-seize on everything. I think I spent more then an hour on the oil dipstick tube, recall these cases are from a bus I used to own so the oil dipstick needed to be relocated.

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Peened the case and the tube in the neighborhood of where they come together...

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Slotted the tube and safety wired it to limit movement (I love safety wire).

Then (next post), used some JB weld to give it some glue.

And here's the final solution. Kind of crude side of the shop but I have had these cases since my college days (a very long time ago) so keeping them going in this 914 is just cool. Plus, no one can see this crude solution unless they follow this thread. No concourse here..

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More pics because I am bored and this thing is coming together nicely...

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And another...

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One more before I go finish a bottle of Old Forrester.

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I won't get much more done this month because dag gone it I have tickets to the Italian F1 GP at Monza in a week and a half. That will take some time for sure.

Right now I hope this thing runs either late (late) fall, or maybe not till next spring. No reason to rush...

Cooling flaps going back in. It doesn't seem to me like the flap on the left (cyls 1 & 2) opens far enough? At full open (travel limited by other flap bottoming on oil cooler vent/tin), it still seems kinda closed to me...

Pic below is full open (thanks 914world for rotating my pics)...

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Finally something to complain about - your engine stand is filthy!
aren't you ashamed to but that thing on your super clean floor?

Engine stand is filthy - yes. Good eyes. It bugs me continuously. I very nearly had it powder coated before I began this build, but the build was ready before I pulled the trigger.

It will get powder coated before my next build (the engine that came out of the car (dropped #3 exhaust valve) will get built to a ~2.3L). Then when that build is complete this engine will become permanent barn art with a special stand and a glass top (for Bourbon drinks).

Engine tins all installed -just as a mock-up. It'll all come back off for some tweaking on the fitment. Fan along with alternator brackets and alternator back cover plate come back from powder coat today but may not get installed until I get back from - wait for it - the Formula 1 GP at Monza next week.

Muffler is out for ceramic coating, I still need a dizzy (someone pls sell me one), and I still need to rebuild the carbs. Then, maybe it will run.

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Alternator installed, more tin work fitment, removal, tweaking, re-fitment. Thermostat bracket and alternator cover plate powder coated. Thermostat not hooked up (yet).

Driver side detail pic...

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Does anyone make stainless valve cover bales for these engines? Seriously I'd buy 2 pair.

Finally back from my Italian vacation. Took in the F1 race at Monza and decided that F1 drivers are sissies and Porsche Super Cup drivers are real men. I wish they televised the Super Cup races on this side of the pond.

Anyway, more work on engine tin fitment. I have installed and un-installed the tins maybe a dozen times. Tweaking it each time for details that I have always hated. Removed some metal on the tins around the Thermo cable so no rubbing. Removed some metal around intake manifolds to ease gasket & manifold placement.

Also work on mocking up the heat exchangers and various heating system bits. The OE rust on the heater tubes was replaced with powder coat in the color "Porsche Silver". What appears what/grey in the pics actually has a leeeetle metal flake in it, and my powder coat guy clear coated them. Will have to sand away some of the PC for perfect fitment, but I am OK with that. Going with all stainless hardware on this side of the engine as well.

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New thermostat & cable from Awesome Powder Coating.

Does anyone know what gasket material was used as OE on the surfaces where the fan housing meets the heat exchanger tube(s)? The two more or less "S" shaped tubes that take forced air from the fan and directs it down the HE? Appeared to me that there was some 40+ year old cork there when I took things apart. Would like to replace it.

Fan, belt, and alternator pulley fitted. I fit a fan guard as was used in the buses. Not sure I will leave it there.

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Close up of thermo cable & cooling flaps. I indexed the bar for the flaps, the two white dots mark the cold position when lined up. When warm they will (hopefully) become un-aligned and I'll know the flaps are operating at a glance.

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Cork seems like the right gasket material between the fan shroud and heat ducts. Here's a look at what's left of an original gasket.

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Cork is correct!

Cork it is then! Thanks gentlemen(?)...

How does the "world" feel about the Bosch 009 dizzy? I had one on my bus engine (all stock except for dual Dells) and while it worked OK, I always attributed a small and annoying flat spot right off idle to that dizzy.

I believe for a street ride some amount of vacuum advance is desirable? The 009 is purely mechanical advance.

As always any/all advice appreciated.

OT - if you ever (EVER) have the chance to turn laps at the Porsche Experience Center in Atlanta, DO IT!

Our local PCA Chapter was gifted 4 tickets to the PEC by our dealer and one of them landed in my pocket. I chose to drive the Macan GTS as I am likely going to buy one in the next few years. They gave me 90 mins. on track with a coach. I was allowed to drive as hard as I felt I could, and I pretty much shredded an expensive set of tires (I have done quite a few DEs in my 993, so going somewhat fast at the racetrack not entirely new to me). No complaints from my coach, no complaints from me. They have several "modules" at the facility including a "handling track (sorta high speed), 2 skid pads (one is wet), a low grip handling circuit, launch control and slalom straight, and a "kick-plate". All very much fun. They do have an off-road track but they would not let me drive the Macan on it, apparently there's a water crossing that is too deep. There is an on-site restaurant, bar, museum and Porsche Classic workshop. They are building a hotel on-site as well.

The Macan and my ugly mug...

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So now back on-topic. My 2056 build is nearly complete. I just need to finish a throttle cable bracket, pre-tune the carbs, double and triple check everything, and then I think I can install it back in the car and run it.

And yet I have a conundrum...

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You can see that my transaxle is filthy, and I cannot bring myself to bolt it to the engine (which is spotless) in this condition. So, do I simply clean-up the exterior of it (which will be a painfull process with contact cleaner, simple green and toothbrushes), or do I rip it apart and make any needed repairs (it was working fine) and send the case(s) out to be beadblasted? I kinda hate to tear it apart just to clean it up.

As seen here I have already spent more than an hour doing a rough cleaning, and I am discouraged by the results...

Steve, one of my customers with a large ultrasonic parts washer, like the one I use, recently sealed the vent on his own tranny and ran it through his large ultrasonic parts washer. It won't hurt the seals or gaskets, and if any fluid did get inside it won't hurt the internals, so why not.

It worked well for him.

If you find a shop with one large enough, be sure to drain the lube before taking it in.

Large ultrasonic parts washer. I will search locally for a shop. Thanks for the tip.

Getting very close to being able to install the engine back into the car (just in time for winter of course).

Have distributor installed and timed at 5(ish) degrees BTDC for initial run and cam break in. Carbs are pre-tuned and synched by hand/ear. Am working on a throttle cable bracket that affixes to the right side engine tin (pic below).

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The plate bolts to an existing nut that was used for the coil mount and I added a rivnut next to that for additional stability. The throttle cable will affix to the outermost hole in the bracket. I welded a couple of extensions onto one of the throttle linkage arms to accept the barrel nut. I'm not finished dressing it up yet, but you get the idea. Very clean install, and when I'm done dressing it up it should look pretty much like a factory bit.

Question for those with carbs - do you install carbs before engine in car or do you wait until engine in place and then install? I ask because the carbs are just incrementally wider than the engine tins and it appears that they may hinder installation.

Life keeps getting in the way of me completing this. Plus as soon as I put it back in the car I won't be able to look at it as much...

Throttle cable bracket slotted to match carb tops, linkage lever-arm modified to accept throttle cable. All bits bead blasted to look as if they came together.

I am trying hard to get the engine back in the car this week. Might even hear it run.

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This picture rotated by "the World" for unknown reasons...

I think I saw a thread here on "the World" about a wiring harness "fix" wherein there is a jumper to ground from the relay board. I think I have that handled. I have a low PSI pump to install and I will run return fuel from carbs to tank.

Ignition timing set to (about) 5 degrees BTDC for initial running, cam break-in and first heat-cycle.

BradPenn break in oil ready to go.

Anymore "gotchas" I need to know about before firing her up?

I am getting really close now. These cases haven't seen a transmission in nearly 30 years, so this is a big step.

It is quite aggrevating to me that the "world" rotates pics on a whim. This is a cool pic (in my opinion), but the "world" screws it all up. Stupid.

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For all you carb experts, is this an acceptable way to block off the vacuum ports? I won't use vacuum signal for anything. I do realize that the mixture screws are missing, they are on the bench.

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Also wondering about transaxle lube and what is recommended? I'll do a search for it but in the meantime if you happen upon this post and know an answer, feel free to shout it out.

Mounting low pressure fuel pump tonight, re-installing engine bay rubber gaskets, repairing a broken rear trunk hinge, and then I think I can install the engine and transaxle.

[And yet I have a conundrum...

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You can see that my transaxle is filthy, and I cannot bring myself to bolt it to the engine (which is spotless) in this condition. So, do I simply clean-up the exterior of it (which will be a painfull process with contact cleaner, simple green and toothbrushes), or do I rip it apart and make any needed repairs (it was working fine) and send the case(s) out to be beadblasted? I kinda hate to tear it apart just to clean it up.

As seen here I have already spent more than an hour doing a rough cleaning, and I am discouraged by the results...
[/quote]

I cleaned my tranny case without dipping the whole thing, used a plastic tub and just sprayed simple green type cleaners around and scrubbed & scrubbed till all the grease was gone, then painted it with hi temp aluminum paint, it's still staying clean.
i also put a length of plastic tubing stuck into the top breather fitting and ducted it down to just below the tranny case. Will save future gunk build-up

I ask questions, but don't get many answers. I'm trying not to get a complex over it...

Between the width and height of the carbs, I find it's easier to leave them bolted to the manifolds, and just unbolt the manifolds for installation.

And, as for the transmission lube, I go with Dr. Evil's recommendation for plain ole 90 wt dino.

I need to clean and paint my transmission as well. Any more tips on that? What kind of brush did you use and what did you cover/plug/protect?

First time seeing your thread bc I'm not on much, but yeah I'd get a complex too!

All the times I've pulled/installed the engine, I removed carbs/manifolds together. Gets rid of the extra height and seems just simpler for me.

Tranny, I think the way you did is probably what most people end up doing.

My wife and I both super enjoy our Macan S! After 2 years and 35K miles, it's been flawless and is a great combination of super fun to drive, nice on long trips, and fits our 2 kids and stuff in the back if we need to travel. And it'll tow a 914 without protest.

Got it on the carbs, I'll pull the manifolds with carbs intact before installation. I did see the info about old school dino oil for transaxle (80W/90 or straight 90W).

Cleaning transaxle - what a chore. I spent the national debt on contact cleaner and started with that and a couple of very stiff bristle brushes (Kroger). The only thing I covered was the vent. That got the really heavy grimy stuff off. Next step was a toothbrush(es) with more contact cleaner. Finally I went after it with simple green. Using a spray bottle I soaked it for an hour or so - repeatedly spraying it down and finished up with more toothbrush work. Took the better part of a day on again off again. It came out about as well as I could've expected.

Good also to know about the Macan S. I have heard nothing but good things about them and in the next year or 2 I'll pick up a lightly used one.

Any advice or tips on installing new engine compartment rubber seals? I have reconnoitered this briefly and seems like it will be quite painful. Not sure if better to start the rubber bit into the channel and slide along, or just start the upper bit of the rubber all along the channel and press fit the lower lip of the rubber. Kind of hard to explain.

I searched, didn't find anything specific.

Don't try to slide the seal. Place the lower lip in the channel and press upper lip in with a blunt tool (preferably something that WON'T puncture the seal). It takes a little time but it is only a minor PITA.