Thanks, I'll give that a shot tonight.

Engine is in. Bottom side is all buttoned up (heat exchangers, ductwork for heat, muffler, cables and shift rod. All good. I'll post pics a little later. Right now I have a question about wiring. There is a small in-enginebay wiring loom that connects to the rear of the relay board with a multi-pin connector. Off of this loom comes the reverse light wires, starter wires, and (I believe) oil pressure switch and coil wires.

My question is specific to the coil wires. There are two. One I assume for each "side" of the coil. The coil is numbered 1 on one side and 15 on the other (I think). Both wires are either black, or so dirty no amount of contact cleaner will reveal their original color.

Does it matter which of these wires goes to which side of the coil?[i] Yes, electrical stuff is my weak point. If I can get this sorted out, I'll start the car tonight or tomorrow.

One of the wires should be black/purple stripe. This goes to the negative side of the coil.

Thanks, which is the negative side? If it is obvious I am missing it.

Black/Purple is the tach wire and goes to negative (-) side, terminal 1 on coil.

Black is hot (+) and goes to terminal 15 on coil.

Look for the "-" symbol near the posts on the coil.

Sweet. Now I just got to see if I can identify black/purple. Thanks VERY much for the assist. Dizzy wire goes to 1 or 15?

It connects to the same spade as on terminal 1 (negative).

Here's a reference: http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/Elec...lectric_73C.jpg

Coil is #6 in the diagram, dizzy is #5.

Perfect, thanks so much.

Good luck with the initial start Look forward to hearing how it goes...

It RUNS! Took it awhile to sputter to life, and it missed quite a bit for the first few minutes, but it ran at a little over 2k RPM for 15 mins. The idle speed on the carbs was set very high, so I just let it run at high idle for cam break in. I turned the idle speed down from side to side and got it to idle nicely at just about 1k RPM. Takes throttle reasonably well, revs out nicely and returns quickly to low idle. So initial carb setting is in the ball park. Ignition timing also in the ballpark since it ran, but I need to advance that when I have put a few more heat cycles on it.

One small fuel leak (I have installed serviceable glass fuel filters on each side of the carbs, and one has a small leak). No oil leaks that I can find. But man is it noisy at the rocker covers. So I need to investigate that. I suspect that my valve adjusters are contacting the rocker covers which is going to be a bummer. This build has chromoly pushrods so (I think) the spec for valve clearance is 0. I will obviously double check.

For now it runs. Merry Christmas to me and thanks to everyone here that has offered advice and assistance.

I'll post a few pics later, right now I think I am gonna celebrate with some tasty adult beverages.

few pics of the install from the underside...

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Noise from the left side rocker cover investigated. Seems one of my valve adjusting lock nuts wasn't locked, allowing for a tad too much clearance between valve and adjuster on the exhaust valve on #2. Since I ran it this way for the better part of 10 - 15 mins, I removed that rocker shaft with rockers and inspected. Also inspected the pushrod. All seems OK thankfully.

I have probably 5 good heat cycles on it now. Drove it today for 10 miles and I am (I hate to say) underwhelmed so far. But, the timing is only set by feel/eyeball and I am running an 009 dizzy. Which I hate. At small throttle openings it stumbles and bogs, then clears out and pulls (sorta hard). It is driveable, but not all that it can be I don't think.

All of the oil appears to stay inside the engine, no fuel leaks, and the carbs feel very close to dead-on.

Someone sell me a proper dizzy? Please? Friends don't let friends drive around with Bosch 009s in their cars...

Really nice work,you have a truly handbuilt blueprinted engine which sets it aside from "just an average" rebuild.
The 009 is ok but just,these were made for industrial engines that run @ constant RPM around 3600,I did read that people in the know can get them to work by slowing the full advance which comes in too quickly for a street driven engine.
You could try increasing the spring tension on one of the internal counterweights to get the advance "all in" @ higher RPM,I did that years ago with some success on a 010 which is basically the old version of the 009.
Failing any improvement with the 009 you could run a vacuum assisted distributor but you then have the hassle of finding vacuum points on both your carbs,my Dellorto's have them but I'am not sure about the Webers cause I've never run them on a T4.
If you buy a vacuum dizzy look for the Bosch one with a 205 end number (from memory),I have one converted to Hotspark pointless ignition that will go on my 1800 as I have a 009 on there now.
The cheap Chinese made SVDA (?) is used with good results on the T1 motors but I don't know about the T4 perhaps some on here can chime in.

I've always had good luck running FI dizzies with vacuum advance on my 40 IDFs. I just take vacuum off one side. I don't think it needs to be taken off both, but I could be wrong! :-)

So - RoadGlue - you are saying you run the OE FI dizzy? I have duel Dellorto 40 DRLAs. They each have 2 vacuum ports at the base just below the throttle plates. It is worth a shot then to re-install the dizzy I took off the engine (nicely running FI 2.0), plug one vacuum port on it and connect the other to a single vacuum port on one of the carbs? Is this a pretty common solution?

I have been tuning carbs and ignition timing all day. The 009 flat-spot will not go away. I can't see having invested this much time and energy into this build just to sacrifice driveability because of the stinking distributor.

I'd absolutely give it a try! My previous carb cars all ran stock FI distributors, but I can't remember which models.

I'm sure you can find an advance curve chart somewhere, but I'm at work and can't really dig around right now.

I'm also not familiar with Dellorto's enough to say which ports you should be using (perhaps they're all the same...).

Great build. Been following since the beginning.

Thanks so much. I'm going to give it a shot this week. If you (or if anyone) has any more info please share.

Very nice work. Good luck with your distributor efforts.

May I ask how you refinished your Bursch exhaust? Looks good! Thanks

Thanks for the compliment. The Bursch was high temp ceramic coated by the same guy that does my powder coat work. I can get the exact brand/color of the coating if interested.

I found this on a shelf with 4 - 5 derelict Solex carbs for beetles (or something). I suspect it is either off this exact engine (1976 bus cases used in this thread), or my other bus engine (1979). When I first built the '79 (in 1986), I removed whatever dizzy was on it 'cause I was convinced that the 009 was the way to go. I spent years and years driving around a flat spot in that bus.

This likely needs some love, and I can send it out for service but wondering if it is more desirable (for driveability) than re-using the OE FI dizzy?

So my options now are:

1) re-use OE FI Dizzy
2) service this one (in the pics) and use it
3) run the 009 (not really an option).

As always all assistance appreciated...
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I have DRLA 40's and have never been able to see a vacuum signal from those 4 ports on the sides of the carbs. I have vacuum plugs on them.

The biggest improvement I ever got in drivability and performance was to get rid of my Bosch distributor and weak ignition coil. I was running a 050 with a blue coil. It had a flat spot off idle and it took a while to warm up and hold an idle. I switched to a Mallory dual point because they quit making the electronic version. I set it up with the gray springs and converted it to a Pertronix II with a Pertronix low impedance coil. No more flat spot and it will hold an idle sooner and it accelerates better than it did with the 050.

Strange about no vacuum from those 4 ports. There is also a 5th port on what I generally consider the right side carb. It has a rubber plug over it.

I don't think the Mallory as available any longer? I have been hoping someone has one on a shelf somewhere and would be ready to sell it to me...

Strange about no vacuum from those 4 ports. There is also a 5th port on what I generally consider the right side carb. It has a rubber plug over it.

I don't think the Mallory as available any longer? I have been hoping someone has one on a shelf somewhere and would be ready to sell it to me...
[/quote]

The Mallory wasn't available when I bought mine either. The dual point is the same distributor only not electronic. They still sell a kit to convert a Mallory dual point to a Pertronix. The Mallory Unilite works on an LED which I have heard is more prone to failure than the Pertronix. The Mallory has a bigger cap with more distance between the leads and more robust bearings...It also has a built in adjuster for the range of advance that makes it easy to set up.

Pic of the engine installed from the top side. Pay no attention to the Brad Penn oil bottle crankcase breather apparatus. It is temporary (and it works). I will fabricate a proper crankcase breather box in the coming weeks.

Custom throttle cable bracket and linkage arm work great. Carbs are nicely synched and she idles very smooth from side to side and takes throttle smoothly also. Engine and transaxle have solid mounts from PO, I may change that. Even with solid mounts vibration not too bad with carbs synched well.

For now, she runs. Pretty well. Pulls stronger almost each time I drive her and if it weren't for the freak'n 009 dizzy I'd call this done! Heat works well and I will drive her all winter - in between salting and brining.

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Oh, and my trunk light works. Never knew until tonight...

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Going for another test/tune sortie...

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If the vacuum canister is working on the FI dizzy then you might as well just give it a light cleaning and see how it works before you spend time refurbishing it.

I thought for sure you'd get more input on this. The board must be in hibernation for the holidays.

Yes RoadGlue, I had thought that asking about which dizzy to use might attract us much attention as my "1mm step in the cylinder heads" bit from months ago. My plan is to re-use the FI dizzy with a light cleaning. I know it was functioning well on that engine.

My real desire is to understand if the dizzy pictured a few posts ago with the last digits of "205" stamped on it is a contender, if it might be better suited than the FI dizzy (2 vacuum posts), and if yes (it is a contender and better suited), I'll have it fully serviced - which is kinda pricey.

I will fit the FI dizzy soon and do some driving...

Removed 009 dizzy, installed OE FI dizzy. Timed to just about 32 BTDC at 3500 RPM. Better. Pronounced flat spot gone, but still a slight hesitation or flat spot at small throttle openings. I have 100 miles on it since the engine went back in. It keeps getting better with every outing.

Have discovered 2 small oil leaks, both of them on the cylinder head side at push rod tube seals. Very small to be sure. Disappointing. Somewhat expected, but still disappointing.

Have checked and re-checked snugness of all exhaust nuts/bolts (head and muffler side). All good.

For now I am going to just drive it. I filled up the gas tank and am going to burn through that this weekend (if the weather permits). At 500 miles I will drain the break-in oil, change the filter and pour in some Brad Penn 20W50.

Note that dual Dellortos running at WOT just about a foot behind your head are LOUD. Music to my ears, but LOUD. Many of you know this already...

Okay, that's a good start! Until you get an AF meter on the exhaust you're going to be fighting unknown demons.

Have your rings seated yet? Are you running a head temp gauge?

Love the sound of four throttle bodies wide open inches from the back of your head.

Keep us updated!

Cheers,

Randy

Did I see you out on HWY 22 in Crestwood toda?. Startled me to see a 914 pass by me...

Probably me. I put about 100 miles on the car today, all local and close to home (LaGrange, Buckner, Crestwood). I have the HP now to pass other cars at will.

On a short night drive last night and as I pulled up the driveway I lost all lights. Pulled into shop and switched it off, then tried to re-start. No luck, battery dead.

I have a sneaking suspicion that the super cool powder coating that I had applied to the alternator (generator(?)) bracket means that i am not charging while driving (or ever).

So, alternator (generator(?)) has to come out. This seems like it'll be a pain without removing the engine, I'll reconnoiter it over the weekend...

Interesting. I don't think that the alternator is grounded through the bracket. Powdercoating them is common.

Did you install a new alternator? There's an issue wherein one of the binding posts inside newer alternators can touch and ground out on the stator cover. Might be that.

I wouldn't have thought the PC would be an issue either. Did not use new alternator. Had one on the shelf, had it tested (positive) and used it. I'll start to troubleshoot over the weekend (I hope). Unfortunately while I am comfortable building an engine up from all of its component parts/pieces, the electrical systems baffle and frustrate me. I do own a reasonably good quality multi-meter so I guess I will break it out.

From what I've read the alternators are normally grounded through the bracket and that this can be a problem unless you fashion a separate grounding path with a cable tied to somewhere else (e.g., fan housing).

It's a pretty simple check with a voltmeter to see if you're charging. Do some testing before fighting with the alternator. I had a battery that kept running down a few months ago that had me wondering if my charging system was working or not. Turns out alternator was fine. It was a bad parasitic drain from radio. Just a few checks with a multimeter helped isolate.

Then I stand corrected.

You can probably snake a grounding cable through the tension adjustment panels to just see if grounding the alternator chassis starts the charging process. If it works, then route it stealthily underneath the car. Shouldn't require pulling the motor (thankfully).

Update on charging issue. Definitely was not charging, voltmeter across battery was 12V with engine running. Keep in mind that I powder coated the fan housing and both the alt. brackets. So just removing PC from the bracket(s) was not going to get it done.

I added a ground wire from one of the Alt cover plate bolts up the grounding stud located above the relay board. Charging again! What is strange is that I get more than 14V across the battery with my voltmeter, but the gauge in the car reads about 2V lower.

Now I am seeing a small oil leak from the rear of the engine. I hope it stays small or goes away (right....).

What if any "gasket" solution did you use on the pushrod tube O rings? I am about to replace old pushrods with new Vicon O rings (recently carefully installed with engine oil lubrication only -- leaking!), with new pushrods and Vicon O rings. Much advice from engine builders who use Yamabond or similar vs. experts here who say just smeer with engine oil!!

I simply used the O-Rings that came with my gasket set (VR set). No Yamabond or RTV in my build(s). I smear a little grease on them for installation and make sure to use the wire pushrod tube "keepers" inside the rocker box. I am experiencing very small (and hugely disappointing) leaks from several of them.

Forrest recently used a sealant on one side and just oil on the other side. Oil only side is leaking! I will use sealant this time and report back.

An update (and a question of course). I have 1200(ish) miles on the engine now. It has been doing quite well. Changed oil from Brad Penn break in oil to Brad Penn 20w50 at 500 miles. Leaned out the idle and the main jets on the Dells recently as weather warmed up and it lost a little of its "edge". Running quite well. Now instead of wondering if I can pas cars ahead, I simply downshift and go. Very liberating.

Anywho, last night during a spirited drive wherein I may have (possibly, maybe) caught a little air (rear wheels maybe an inch off the ground), she started running on 3.

Cylinder number 1 acting poorly. Checked spark - good bright blue spark at the plug. Checked plug - looks good (perhaps even a little lean). Checked fuel, throttle plate is wet, accel pump is working. Placing hand over velocity stack yields no results (it should kill the engine), and turning the mixture adjuster all the way in on that cylinder does not change behavior. There is an occasional backfire (sometimes even with an exciting/scary flame) through the carb at open throttle positions, none at closed throttle.

Now, getting a little air and the subsequent running only on three are quite possibly, and hopefully not related, but I'm curious as to what you guys think may be the problem here. I will check compression next. Running chromoly pushrods so valve lash should be 0, will check that also. No strange/abnormal noises (like something broken) before, during, or after getting air.

This is what I get for saying to myself "I should post a follow-up to "the world" about how great my car is running"....

Now that IS a strange one indeed. Maybe pull off the rocker cover and poke around and make sure there isn't a stuck valve. Perhaps something came loose in the bump and squished a push rod tube... That's a long shot of a guess though.

Even though the accelerator pump is working, maybe a jet got clogged with debris during the "landing."

Crossing my fingers for you that it's nothing too serious.

Did some more troubleshooting last night. Removed all main jet stacks and idle jets. Cleaned all of them. Changed idle jets back to 60s (from 55s). Re-installed all. Now the thing wont idle. Runs on all 4 now, and takes throttle well, just won't hold an idle. Note that for the first 800 miles it idled quite nicely with 60s. So, I will dig deeper.

Never (ever) proclaim to oneself that your antique aircooled German car is "running flawlessly". This is what happens....

Check compression. Or first, pull valve cover off and check the rockers. Not to be the death fairy, but could be a bent or damaged valve or seat. Eliminate as many possible failure points as you can. If it's really running on 4 now, might not be valve related. But nice to cross that off the list of possible problems. Perhaps cheaper answers remain to be found.

sdoolin -

Are you running gas with ethanol?

Almost certainly running gas with ethanol, I don't shop anywhere specific for gasoline. I put 93 octane in it, but I'm not sure that means no ethanol? It sure ran well for like, 1100 miles...

Car was back to running on 3 at idle, so I took carbs off last night and thoroughly cleaned and inspected. Re-installed them and only running worse.

This is feeling more and more like a compression issue. So I checked compression on cyls 1 & 2. Both 0. Then I remembered my compression guage is a piece of crap/broken. So time to buy a new cool one. I am thinking more and more that my valve lash is set wrong and one or more valves not closing completely. But I need to (obviously) get into the rocker covers to sort that out.

Anyone have a fav. compression guage?

Does the starter crank unevenly? If you get a sound from it like "RR-RR-RR-..-RR-RR-RR-.." you have a cylinder with zero compression.

(Don't ask how I know.)

--DD

If you run ethanol in carb engines you are almost certain to get clogged jets.
This can happen in less than one tank.
The alcohol absorbs water, then the gas in the float bowls evaporates leaving behind the water.
Water corrodes aluminum in carb bowls leaving behind a white residue.
White residue clogs jets.
Fuel filters dont help.

Stugray - thanks for the 'splanation. This may come down to clogged jets, or something in the fuel system and to be sure, I hope it is that small of an issue.

To DDs point - the car cranks and starts evenly, and quickly, no strange noises there.

Having failed at determining compression in any cylinder due to lack of proper tools, I went ahead and inspected all rockers, swivel feet, pushrods, etc. I had somewhat hoped to find an overly tight valve clearance that would effectively hold a valve open and a loss of compression. No luck. All swivel feet spin nicely on the their valves, and all pushrods spin nicely in the rockers. Chromoly pushrods.

She still runs on only 3. All the time. Will not hold an idle.

Interestingly there is a very odd noise when she dies (won't idle). There's a "squishing" or "squeezing" noise from somewhere behind the engine tins, as if fluid is being forced through some small orifice. Goes away after a few seconds.

Sooooo, until I acquire a proper compression tester I am somewhat shooting in the dark and only guessing. I have cleaned the carbs thoroughly, but may attempt that again. A compression tester ordered from Amazon will take a few days to arrive, so the car is down for awhile.

I will re-iterate, never ever proclaim to oneself (or anyone else) that your antique german aircooled car runs flawlessly. There is a price to be paid...