Kent I get it, not saying its bad just sayin' it ain't pretty For me, I might cut, I might cut the AC unit voiding any warranty that might have been implied. Who knows I might change my mind More than likely what ever I do it will be done three times over for the sheer hell of it. And I am sure lots of welding will be involved.

Has anybody tried to build one into the space taken up by the foam footrest? Seems like a good place to hide it without having to relocate other things.

I bought this for $70.00. I have not had a chance to test fitment. For the price, I figured I could use it for parts if it doesn't fit. The plan was to plump the existing side vents into it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-A-C-UNIVERSAL-...tHz&vxp=mtr

I was wondering if a cool-only system could be custom built into the center console.
The gauges could move forward an inch or so to add room.
Cut intake vents near the floor toward the front, and run hoses out the top to the side vents, and maybe a vent at the top of the console face?

I measured the console and drew up an idea I had, but its pretty limited in space. I think a rear cabin evaporator out of a Town&Country van could be made to fit cuz they are really small. I do not know how effective it would be. Put a blower in the bottom and flaps with vents up top that could fold out when in use and close to maintain stock look. Like this:Click to view attachment

Very cool idea. I am heading to Vegas next week and am going to go by Rennegade Hybrids. I understand they have an evaporator which fits under the cowl. I will let you know when I see it.

I found this, it is one of the Ebay condensersevaporator, it fits, no heat though, but it would fit.

Click to view attachment

This looks doable, just have to plumb the air intake into the cabin.

it is all flex duct, so it should not be much of an issue to do that.

Guys.....evaporators and condensors are not the same thing

I am in the same boat as a recirc air exchange for the evap only as trying to chill ambient air wouldn.t work well. Haven.t done any heat calcs...but that is my quess. Big thing is heat rejection...my quess is there is a lot of heat gain in our little cabins.

Sorry I fixed my miss use of part name in my previous post.

It will never happen again.......



Oh hell it will happen a lot more than that one time. Who am i kidding


Since that setup uses squirrel cage blower fans, you would have to build a box around it to get cabin recalculation. Nothing overly complicated, like an old school carb box you used for your supercharged blow thru carb setups.

The case is ABS the front screws onto it to make the 4 outlet holes. I would just cut the rear off, change the rear panel. Mount different fans that feed from the cabin into the evaporator case and move on. As long as you don't need heat nothing to this.

They make a version of this with a 12V heater section. Just not thinking it would make a huge difference when you go out in October in Ohio to the last auto-x only to have it snow while your there.

It.s ok....I.m not trying to troll. Hope I didn.t offend.

No offense taken. Some times my brain might think of the proper word, but my hands type what ever the ______ they want to.

It won't work. I have already looked at this setup. The fans are in the way of the gas tank.

Sorry....

This may be silly, but one could mount a shitload of these on the firewall.
Click to view attachment

forgive my ignorance but what is it?

It's a neat device called a TEC or peltier cooling module. Apply power and one side heats up while the other side cools down. Reverse the polarity and the heating and cooing sides flip. The biggest ones I see for sale draws close to 40 amps and only yields 1500 btus of heat or cooling (dependent on the way you wire it).

Understand the difference between an Evap and condenser, a unit mounted in the cowl, which drew air from the cabin exclusively should work. It is no different than the under dash unit. Both would need an appropriately sized compressor and condenser, but I see know reason why it wouldn't work.

I bought the same $70.00 special. It still has air intake and exit. Air intake would need to come from the above vent and sealed off to prevent gas fumes from coming in. Unless your gas tank still has all the vapor stuff on it. Air exit is pretty simple to connect to existing vents, but so much for the cables and air direction for top middle and below. Curious how much room it would take away from the passenger foam foot rest? I will take a look at it this weekend. Using the foam foot rest you could easily use the existing side vents and maybe add one in the center console area. Also having the evaporator on the inside, would allow it to recirculate the cold air versus always trying to cool outside air.

I actually had looked into these, they were predominately used in IC cooling but found a home in seat cooling. My new F150 Ford uses them. I think they will need some more development for cabin cooling.

Oh...I think it will work.....the trick will be on the condensor side or heat rejection so that that ambient temperature "feels" cool.

I think the condensing coil will need an assist fan somewhere to get enough heat transfer. Where would be a good place for that?

For me the condenser is a no brainier. I am running a Subaru engine with a front mounted radiator, Renegade makes an add on to their kit. So I will have plenty of air flow and an easy way to get heat.

So front mounted "sandwhich" arrangement with the radiator. No assist fans?

I am running the Renegade Cooling kit, it has two large electric fans