Finally getting back to Taylor's project. Next part going is the lower portion of the fuel tank / shock tower panel.
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After all the trimming and fiddling it's ready to go in. But there's always something. The left side lines up perfect. The right side not so much. It will need some creative tuning.
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At quitting time the bottom flange is rosette welded in. And the center section is seam welded, smoothed and polished.
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Bottom flange got pretty beat up from spot weld removal. It's not really meant to be removed

Finally have the front firewall / fuel tank support welded into place. I did have to cut out an additional thin section and patch it up.
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Next, the big kahuna. The front bulkhead under the dash. It's going to be some tough work. The side flanges need some serious repairs.
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You've got guts. That is an intimidating piece you are tackling there.

Might be a good time to relocate he fuel pump to the front?
Nice to see some progress.
Cary I'll catch up with you later this week.
Mark

1st order of business today. Test fitting the donor front cockpit bulkhead. It's got some twists and turns. But it went into the hole.

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Decided to take on the tunnel issues first.
The clutch tube is disconnected in all 3 locations. The firewall, the shifter guide loop and the tunnel wall in front of the shifter.

Here's the firewall strap.
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Here's the ripped out section.
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Here's what the shifter guide loop should look like ............... minus the rust LOL
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Here's Taylor's guide loop in pieces.
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Here's Taylor's engine fire wall.
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We'll start with the firewall first.
After a little work with some hammers, blocks and re-bar.
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After some low power welding with my little 110 welder.
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Test fitting the MiddleMotors firewall stiffener. The 72's that we've used it on before had the clutch tube hole in a higher location.
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Cut open the tunnel in 3 spots ........................
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Another short day .................
Re installed clutch cable tube.
Started with installing Jack's shift loop replacement piece.
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Tidied up the front strap area in front of the shifter.
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Installed the clutch tube.
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Time to fire up the torch. Brazed in with the Mapp torch. Could have been a bit hotter and faster. But didn't feel like breaking out the oxy torch.
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Next onto the engine firewall. Even though I repaired the firewall I added the MiddleMotors firewall stiffener.
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Next ......
I figured I'd get the trunk rail repaired before the bulkhead goes in. Easier to weld and much easier to add OSPHO and primer for long term protection.

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The smaller hole(s) on the flat portion I welded closed. The new 141 lets me really make a small weld.
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The vertical portion got a patch piece. Lots of trips back on forth to the sander to get a nice tight fit for easy welding.
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I'm not going to over finish. Both of these corners will get sealed up with JB Weld or All Metal.

Left side will be a little more complicated. Damage goes into the piping slot. But having the dash and bulkhead out gives me good access to the back side.
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Finished up the other trunk/cowl/fender corner. I'm going to look at adding some additional Dremel bits to my tool assortment.
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Backside. No bulkhead or dash. Makes it much easier.
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Using the Millermatic Mode on my 141. Really lets me dial it in. It gets pretty tricky some
time with old metal and hidden seal sealer.

Now on to the dreaded bulkhead. Lots of spot weld cutter holes to build back up for a
new 1/4" hole.
I'll ring them. Then sand/grind down. Then drill a new hole. Plus it strengthens the flange
during the need for going in and out for fitting.
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While I'm doing that Jack is creating some patterns for the hard sections that got tore up
during removal.
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I forgot to post the continuation of the flange repairs to the front bulk head.
Numerous sections have to be removed and replaced.
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Cut outs continue.
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Decided to repair and install the chassis ties to get a better test fit of the bulk head. They would need to go in first anyway. But they too were pretty tore up so I'd been holding off.
More of the same on the flange repairs. Some hole filling, some cut out and replacement.
But we got it tuned up and she got a nice coat of cold galvanizing on the inside.
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Here's where she goes.
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Test fitted and ready for screws.
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About 1/2 way welded in. Short day, heading out for dinner with the wife.
Plus an oil change on the daughters car first thing this am.
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Cary - I have to applaud you for the way you save these cars.

I know Taylor appreciates it. This is much deeper than we 1st thought when we got into this. The idea was Taylor wanted to get some hands on in the metal department. He got a whole lot more than he bargained for.

Hoping this winter we can get this to paint, but still a ways to go.

Let Taylor drive my 72 when we went to lunch, I know he misses it.

Amazing work Cary! I’m quite sure Taylor will respect and care for that car far longer than if it were just bought in good condition. Plus gold metal memories of the intire project.

Jack is off with one of his Federal Highway buddies so I was all by myself.
A couple shots of the right tie brace all finished up.
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I didn't over grind the spot welds. It will get sprayed with seam sealer.
Probably should changed out more of the flange to get a smoother and flatter surface.
Or maybe I could have used the Lenco panel spot welder.

I decided I'd leave rebuilding the flnges on the other brace to Jack. I'll start checking things off the list.
First order of business is welding in the patch panels Taylor cut out from a donor firewall.
Test fit #1 on the left side panel.
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Bottom flange was junk so I cut off the bottom 1/2" and added on some new metal.
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Tacked into place. But I did stop and fill the big gap in the corner before moving to the other and harder patch.
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Now on to the more difficult patch. In Taylor's defense the front shots don't tell all the story. Not only was he matching up the front. We're carrying the engine shelf on the backside with us. More photos tomorrow.
The starting point.
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Test fit.
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Trimmed and locked in. Added a flange to the outer right big hole.
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Welded in and heading home ............... I'll finish tomorrow.
Won't over do it. Beings that this will be a fair weather driver and both sides will be covered up with 914 Rubber parts. Front side sprayed with seam sealer.
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Almost out of gas, showing about 4%. Will probably have to steal the one off the 180.

Here's the left side all tidied up on the front side.
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Here's the right side with the welds all tuned up. Once again, it will be sprayed with seam sealer after it's primered.
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Back side of both patches.
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Next, onto filling the large gap in the engine shelf.
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Here's where I was at after building up both sides twice. Then I cut down the welds to keep it from pilling up.
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The front after a little tuning.
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The under side of the engine tray after welding up the rosettes.
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Looking good. Thanks for posting.
I have a bunch of sheet metal work to do and this really helps me with ideas!
I need to find some copper scraps....

I see it as my way of giving back for all the help I received over the years.

Here's a shot of the white board. We keep chipping away at it.
While I'm working on the list Jack is rebuilding the left chassis brace / tie.
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While I'm going in and out from the engine bay with the car on the rotisserie I'm wearing the bump hat Mike (Warpig) gave to me.
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Lots of ugly thing to catch your head on.
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I've forgotten to mention .............. the sand keeps coming.
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Picked a couple new cans of Rustoleum cold galvanizing.
Here's a shot of the front of the right patch sealed up.
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Oh boy do I need that hat! Cut my ear last night on the corner of the windshield frame as I backed out after installing sound deadener. That engine bay is nothing but a head gasher.

On to the rear engine seal channel. Decided to go with the new one I had in stock.
We would be time, which is $$ ahead. Filled all the spot weld removal holes on the engine
tray.
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Then moved on to shaping the straight piece to the curved rear engine tray.
Tried a couple different ways outside the car. No go. Wrinkled the rolled lip.
So I started on the right end and clamped it down with a pair of 6R Vice Grips.
Then heated it with the Mapp gas torch. Working about 2" at a time. Go my curve/shape
then clamped it again. Rinse and repeat until I got to the other side.
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Drilled 5/32 holes every 2" and welded it into place.

Onto the rest of Monday's work. Waiting for powder coating at Rothsport.
Staying in the engine bay. On to installing the right suspension mount. But first, doing a little patching on the upper long.
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Hell hole is in relatively good shape. Just need to weld up the spot weld cutting holes from removing the right engine shelf.
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Scalpel ................ Cutting away the outer layer of the upper long.
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The inner box support look pristine.

Next a little work with the lie detector (wire cup brush). Under suspension mount welded up. Hell hole ramp is a before shot. But its all done.
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Patch all ready to go. Opened area sprayed with Weld Thru primer.
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Back to it. Welding in the patch left from Monday's work.
A few self tapping screws and a clamp.
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Blip, blip, blip. No real issues.
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Ready for the suspension mount fitting.
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Time for fitting the suspension mount.
1st issue, the bottom edge needs a little tuning. A little too long.
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Here's the measurement points for the suspension mount.
Hole in the center of firewall.
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Here's 28.25"s from the measurement hole.
I created a piece of brake line with a bubble flare for the hole end. And a 37 degree flare for the mount hole measurement.
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After a little welding ............... Right in place. Right & Tight.
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Welds and exposed metal covered with cold galvanizing.
Ready for the right engine shelf.
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I think we'll strip off the black paint sometime in the future. This is the first P318 that came in black. As tough as it was to clean off the welding surfaces I'm thinking it was powder coated.

I'll ask, but if it's paint leave it.

I'd planned on leaving that to you and Taylor and who's ever going to prime and paint it. Just documenting what I saw. I only removed what I needed to weld. Then coated that surface with weld thru primer.

Pile of new parts ................ Thursday 11/1
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On to fitting and trimming the engine shelf. Took quite a bit of work on the sand bag to
get the shape I wanted.
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All welding surfaces prepped with weld thru primer.
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Welding in the small patch piece Jack whipped up.
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After welding and sanding.
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After cold galvanizing.
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Don't forget to drill your D-Jet bracket holes on your new Dansk battery tray before installation. Doing it in the car doesn't give you much angle of the dangle.
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Plus don't forget to weld on your battery hold down nut.
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After some twisting, turning and tuning ................
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Well Super In Law finished up the left chassis brace / tie so its time for me to install it.
I had to make a couple tweaks (like every part I install, new or old) before it was ready.
Its all about a nice tight fit for nice flat welds. But then you run into thinner spots in the old metal, then thins sections of the new flange and seam sealer coming thru the joints and so on and so on.
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Screwed into position ............

Magic ...............
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I'll notch the right brace access to the lower sway bar nut. So when it comes loose some time the next 50 years the holes ready to go.

End of the day ...............
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Tomorrow. Jack will pound out another set of suspension mount tie plates while I get back into the frunk seal channels.

I wish there were 9 days a week. I have a 914-6 to totally disassemble and prepare for stripping next week at Rothsport. I'll send the VIN to SirAndy. Its' been in storage at Rothsport for 15 years. At the same time I'll climb up on the rack and get the serial # off a 914-6 engine up on another rack.

Looking good there on all that fine rust repair work.

Great work by your whole team!

I like the cold galvanizing spray, I have found it to be very rust resistant.

Can you prime and paint over it or are you planning to remove it before the final paint?

That always seems like an issue when you are repairing a car section by section. You need to put something over the sections as you finish them, but it is painful thinking you will need to remove it all before final paint. It is a lot of trouble to mix up and shoot two part epoxy primer for each little section and have to clean you gun afterwords. It is nice to just grab a can of something and spray it on. I used to use Eastwoods rust encapsulator, and the primer and paint I shot over it is still sticking well. I did this on interior and engine areas. On the outside of the car I stripped it down to bare metal for the final paint.

John

John it comes off with lacquer thinner. But I'll leave that up to the painter.
I'm going to try and get a hold of Rod Emory and see what he does on his projects. He buys the stuff by the pallet.

Started Saturday with getting Jack set up create a couple more pairs of suspension ties.
1st. our cleaned off partial upper long for test fitting.
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Got the 1st weld together piece just about ready.
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Here's a couple links of getting to the install task.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2537320

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2536585

Thank You, fine sir ................

Back to work on Taylor's car.
Friday task #1. Weld in the cut outs from the clutch tube repair.
Job one is creating copper backers for the middle cut out. That one has the tubes laying right on the bottom of the tunnel................
I use an old piece of copper pipe to create the backers. Cut into three 1" sections and a 3" section. On Doug's car I tried to make them removal. Not. They're jammed in too tight. So they'll be there for eternity. But they'll be hidden under the green Eastwood Encapsulator that will be applied in the future.
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All covered up. Not going to over finish the welds. The car is going to be totally undercoated.
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Job #2. Weld in the suspension mount tie plates. Took Super In Law another 4 hours to get the tight fit I was looking for.
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He's creating 2 more sets of rights and one left.

Running my MillerMatic 141 at Warp Factor 10. Capn I'm giving it all I got ....
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Gooder than new ....................

All the flanges aren't repaired, but I did a bulkhead test fit on Taylor's car on Tuesday. A little tight in a couple spots, will need some scalpel work. But all in all pretty pleased that it would slip right in.
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If it warms up and stops raining we'll getr blasted along with the tail light panel Taylor brought over.

Finally getting back to Taylor's car after a getting Mick's car up and running and solid month at Rothsport.
Job #1, strip paint off donor part.
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Ready to go.
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Work continues. In and out, In & out to get it to fit correctly. Almost there.
In a conversation with Bruce Stone sounds someone in Europe is thinking of taking on this crazy task. Not for the faint of heart.

Time to get back on the horse. Beginning the welding in of the bulkhead. Because of all the angles, bends and flanges they'll still be a little bit trimming and patching of the upper part after the lower portion is welded in.
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Like I've said before, this piece really isn't supposed to be removed without first removing the cowl/windshield frame.

The left corner / vent hole will have to be re created. Got pretty tore up during the harvesting of the donor part.
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Wouldn't be a MiddleMotors post without a couple tool shots.
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