Full Version: Oldest 914 restoration know to man
Thanks for the “how to” on the sway bar. I need one on my conversion car. I will order a set of Brad’s mounts this week.
Your welcome, thank you for letting me know it was useful 
I will finish it out with the JB weld and final fitting. The other side is just a rinse and repeat process. Though I have thought about building another adapter and using laser bore sight to mark the center on the other side. The might be taking this to an extreme.
I will finish it out with the JB weld and final fitting. The other side is just a rinse and repeat process. Though I have thought about building another adapter and using laser bore sight to mark the center on the other side. The might be taking this to an extreme.
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 23 2017, 07:29 AM) 
Your welcome, thank you for letting me know it was useful
I will finish it out with the JB weld and final fitting. The other side is just a rinse and repeat process. Though I have thought about building another adapter and using laser bore sight to mark the center on the other side. The might be taking this to an extreme.
Once you get both holes, slide the sway bar into place and make sure things line up nicely. You can pull the bar most of the way out one side, and then use it as a level to realign the metal. I'd add the JBWeld once everything's aligned and let the JBWeld cure with the bar in place.
Little steps will add up to the whole. Keep on those and you'll progress nicely.
Looking good!
Thanks for the tip Mark 
got in the shop tonight, and finished up the swaybar installation.
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Not as smooth as my roller bearing mounted swaybar on the EG conversion, so I need to add a bit of machining and a grease fitting, to give them a little less friction. That equals more lathe and mill time.
Click to view attachment
Not as smooth as my roller bearing mounted swaybar on the EG conversion, so I need to add a bit of machining and a grease fitting, to give them a little less friction. That equals more lathe and mill time.
Got a bit more done today, might keep me out of the slackers thread.
First up horns, each bracket needed to be clocked correctly. And the electrical posts needed to be bent from 90 degrees to 0 degrees or maybe 1-2 degrees if your wanting to be picky.
The Horns are Hella SuperTones, 130dB Might keep somebody from running over the top of the 914.
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Next up cleaned up the Cibie Friving lights.
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Wow they where dirty
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Both sides mounted up
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Need to find some SS screws to mount the grill covers with, anyone know the screw size off hand?
Back to the sway bar installation
JB Welded them in. Brad says that will work, and in reality your clamping these, and just keeping them from falling down behind the gas tank. That would suck.
Click to view attachment
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If it becomes an issue, it is not like I don't know my way around welders
In the wheel wells, once set I will hit them with a top coat and then undercoat them. Just to make it match what Dad had done.
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Been working on my second set of Mini-Lites the first set is going up for sale.
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Last but not least some brake Porn
PMB, a sourced set of Brembo Alpha calipers, and speed bleeders
Click to view attachment
Alphas Much bigger than the 914-6 fronts
And they are Aluminum Much lighter to boot
And I ordered to many speed leaders, did not realize they come in pairs.
Yet it worked out because the Alpha Calipers required a M10 bleeder and I just so happened to have 4 sets for my EG build, that is using Boxster Calipers which are also M10. For once a mis-order worked for me.
Speed bleeders going into the classifieds also. At a fraction of the orginal cost
First up horns, each bracket needed to be clocked correctly. And the electrical posts needed to be bent from 90 degrees to 0 degrees or maybe 1-2 degrees if your wanting to be picky.
The Horns are Hella SuperTones, 130dB Might keep somebody from running over the top of the 914.
Click to view attachment
Next up cleaned up the Cibie Friving lights.
Click to view attachment
Wow they where dirty
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Both sides mounted up
Click to view attachment
Need to find some SS screws to mount the grill covers with, anyone know the screw size off hand?
Back to the sway bar installation
JB Welded them in. Brad says that will work, and in reality your clamping these, and just keeping them from falling down behind the gas tank. That would suck.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
If it becomes an issue, it is not like I don't know my way around welders
In the wheel wells, once set I will hit them with a top coat and then undercoat them. Just to make it match what Dad had done.
Click to view attachment
Been working on my second set of Mini-Lites the first set is going up for sale.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Last but not least some brake Porn
PMB, a sourced set of Brembo Alpha calipers, and speed bleeders Click to view attachment
Alphas Much bigger than the 914-6 fronts
And they are Aluminum Much lighter to boot And I ordered to many speed leaders, did not realize they come in pairs.
Yet it worked out because the Alpha Calipers required a M10 bleeder and I just so happened to have 4 sets for my EG build, that is using Boxster Calipers which are also M10. For once a mis-order worked for me.Speed bleeders going into the classifieds also. At a fraction of the orginal cost
Been traveling for work. here is the update of what I got done while I was in town.
First up got my welding area kinda of setup. I am still looking for some steel to build a good bench, or a used one I like.
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Nice to have dedicated welding space, now to get to welding. I have not been welding for about 6 months, man I am rusty, but I got back in the grove pretty quickly. I worked on some welding tank mounts, and other things to get the muscle memory back.
Then I started this.
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Welded up
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Spot on, like all of Chris' stuff, it
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Okay no I am not welding in a dark shop, I have some strong lights, but this welding table light really screws with the digital camera. This is just turning off the light.
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Thanks Scott
First up got my welding area kinda of setup. I am still looking for some steel to build a good bench, or a used one I like.
Click to view attachment
Nice to have dedicated welding space, now to get to welding. I have not been welding for about 6 months, man I am rusty, but I got back in the grove pretty quickly. I worked on some welding tank mounts, and other things to get the muscle memory back.
Then I started this.
Click to view attachment
Welded up
Click to view attachment
Spot on, like all of Chris' stuff, it
Click to view attachment
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Okay no I am not welding in a dark shop, I have some strong lights, but this welding table light really screws with the digital camera. This is just turning off the light.
Click to view attachment
Thanks Scott
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 22 2017, 03:39 PM)
I tend to measure project success and the amount of fun I have had by the number of chips, pile of metal shavings, and metal abound.
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Successful and fun day
Great little 3" lathe. I have the same one myself.
QUOTE(914forme @ Dec 1 2017, 09:05 PM)
Did you actually use your Tig welder for part of the right bolt or is it just a really clean MIG weld?
Its mig.
QUOTE(Amenson @ Dec 1 2017, 11:04 PM)
QUOTE(914forme @ Dec 1 2017, 09:05 PM)
Did you actually use your Tig welder for part of the right bolt or is it just a really clean MIG weld?
Well what you see there is the difference between rusty to fluid. Both MIG'd.
TIG should be operational this week. Then lots of practice, lots and lots of practice.
Some of the TIG stuff I lined up, need to make some tooling to do them is some 901 transmission rebuilding tools. I have a clutch spline I started to make into a tool. Would like to TIG these up.
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And a Long socket that has been cut and prepped , and never welded. Just waiting on me to get the nerve to grab the TIG and do it. Maybe I'll do that today. Force me to finish the TIG setup. If I wanted to get it done, I would just grab the MIG and do it.
QUOTE(914forme @ Dec 2 2017, 09:20 AM)
And a Long socket that has been cut and prepped , and never welded. Just waiting on me to get the nerve to grab the TIG and do it. Maybe I'll do that today. Force me to finish the TIG setup. If I wanted to get it done, I would just grab the MIG and do it.
If you want to make it a litle less threatening, you could use the Sherline to turn an aluminum or brass insert to keep its shape while welding. Then it's relatively insensitive to heat. Not to make more work for you or anything.
Well a bit of update.
TIG up an running, long long long road ahead on learning the skills. Currently my welds look good 2% of the time and the other 98% they look like
I also found some parts I tucked away in the shop, and got to work.
I had a couple scratches in the seal and bearing spacers on the struts. So new ones go on. Dang they are a tad expensive.
Drove the old off,
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And new ones back on with new o-rings also.
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And then I ran into an odd one. One Bilstein insert fitted perfectly in one strut. the other did not fit. two threads engaged and we are tight.
So measure, everything is the same, again
Swapped inserts, and the one that did not fit now fits in strut A with inset B. Insert A gets two threads down into Strut B and stops
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Like everything with this car one step forward 2 back. And I can not find my spanner for the insert top nut.
Oh and I also have an issue with the new ball joints locking into the arm. The ball joint key is narrower than the key that is welded onto the arm. I did find all my new ball joint hardware.
TIG up an running, long long long road ahead on learning the skills. Currently my welds look good 2% of the time and the other 98% they look like
I also found some parts I tucked away in the shop, and got to work.
I had a couple scratches in the seal and bearing spacers on the struts. So new ones go on. Dang they are a tad expensive.
Drove the old off,
Click to view attachment
And new ones back on with new o-rings also.
Click to view attachment
And then I ran into an odd one. One Bilstein insert fitted perfectly in one strut. the other did not fit. two threads engaged and we are tight.
So measure, everything is the same, again
Swapped inserts, and the one that did not fit now fits in strut A with inset B. Insert A gets two threads down into Strut B and stops
Click to view attachment
Like everything with this car one step forward 2 back. And I can not find my spanner for the insert top nut.
Oh and I also have an issue with the new ball joints locking into the arm. The ball joint key is narrower than the key that is welded onto the arm.
I did find all my new ball joint hardware.QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 16 2018, 08:48 PM)
Like everything with this car one step forward 2 back. And I can not find my spanner for the insert top nut.
Meh, just use a pipe wrench...
And I thought I was the only one that had days like that.
QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 23 2017, 08:58 PM)
Well I am pretty darn excited to start this project.
It has been a long time coming.Oldest 914-6 Restoration know to man has just gotten kicked into high gear.
The back story:
My father had owned several sports car and sporty cars in his life. His then current pride and joy was a Lotus Elan. That car gave me my first addiction into speed and driving fun. It was 1970s and I can remember sitting in the passenger seat, going down a road, top down. Wind was blowing through my blond curly locks. Yes I did have hair
And all I could see was the wood dashboard in front of me, and if I looked out the side, I could see the tops of the phone poles. If I looked to my left I could see my father grinning from ear to ear, like a cheesier cat. The other items I remember from my Lotus days was my father constantly under the hood. And the fact it was so low, that we would drive under the parking lot gates.So it was a sad day when the lotus was sold. He did it just the same as I would have if in his shoes. He sold it to get the money to build his house. Dad by trade was an architect, I suppose he still is, he is just not practicing any more. So he built a very nice modern house for the three of use, and we moved. Boring cars filled the driveway at this point. A Ford Pinto, yes the blowy up kind. And an Audi 100, that was beige. That car was purchased wrecked. My father fixed it all up, and well we found out why it was wrecked. Every time it rained that car got hit. You would be sitting at a light and bam, rear ended. Driving down the road and get T-boned. It was crazy. Mom and Dad sold that car for all things a Triumph Stag. Really a lovely car after my father rewired the entire thing to exercise the Lucus Damons.
One day leaving his office he looked over at the repo lot next door. There sitting rather sadly at the back of the lot was a bright orange Porsche. Dad’s co worker and fellow car rebel rouser convinced him to go over and take a look. He knew it was a 914, he did not know until he got to the back of it what it really was. Sitting on two flat tires, with steel wheels and ugly hubcaps was a 914-6. Not sure how, but he got the money together and bought the -6. I can remember riding it just once. Not far from home we heard a odd sound coming from behind us, Dad shut off the engine, tossed it into neutral and we coasted home. Lucky it was a down hill run. Pushed it into the garage, and all hell cut loose.
Diagnosis from all his SCCA buds was more than likely a bad chain tensioner. Need to drop the engine and see what was up. Dad being Dad decided that was the perfect time to take it down to a almost bare chassis and start restoring the car. This was 1976 the car is only 6 years young. I spent many a day and night out in the garage with dad. He would be working on the -6 I would be playing like I was driving it.
Years past as I got older, I got into racing, my father supported me. First up was the gravity drags otherwise know as soap box derby. I ran these for three years until I got bored with it. Then cam motorcycles and motocross. We then switched to auto-x and that stuck with me for the rest of my life.
We also worked on a bunch of cars in that time frame. The first one we did together was when I was 14. It was a 1965 Jeep CJ5 he traded for some work we did on a guys basement. We got that finished and well Jeeps are not my thing. So we got Karmann Ghia, built it into a sleeper with bunch of parts we had from a 914-4 parts car. Redid the engine with a type-4 used a 911 5-speed, and all the suspension was redone. Going down one of the roads in the area, I keep hearing this loud roar of a V8 coming up onto me, we would hit the curves and it would fad away, and finally got out of the twisties, and heard it again. It was a guy in a vet, who I must have been really pissed off, as he could not keep up with my little VW in the corners. When I went to college dad drove the car to keep it “limber”.
His six sat on the side line.I graduated, got a job with Nancy Lowe, which also meant they found out I was into 914s and well I got to know Jon also. My daughter was born, and a month latter we found my 914-4.
Dad helped us build our house, and work on various cars, and vans, keep our budget down a bit as a young family. A few years ago, I got a Miata for my wife, for our 25th anniversary. We where married in 1989. The car built in November of 1989. She wanted one back in 1990, it is like I made the dream come true, only 25 years latter. I restored that car, and took my dad for a ride, he was hooked. And Mom was hooked too, so they found a 1994 M edition they liked. We picked it up, and I restored that car for them.
Years have passed and I have become blessed enough to have a career that I can afford to give a little back to my parents.
The Plan:
Originally it was going to be how I remembered the car. It did not have the sail vinyl or the warts on the front fender. He also had a top painted to match. I would like to build it the way he had envisioned it. As of today that plan might have changed. Some where along the way, he put the warts back on, and added the sail trim and vinyl and added a stock top.
I still plan on adding the following items.
I have a bunch of vintage speed parts I have been collecting over the years and picked up a few just recently. Thank you Scott, and Kerry your parts will be going to good use. And thank all you people who sold me stuff at the swaps like it was worth nothing in the 80s and 90s.
Engine: rebuild, add pressure feed tensioners, and turbo valve covers. Other items we will see what is wrong with the engine, it has been sitting a very long time.
Transmission: Add a LSD, convert the car to a side shifter, using Tangerine Racing parts, and JWest shifter.
Suspension: Add bushings, Bilstein Shocks, H&H Swaybar up front, maybe a stock rear swaybar. I have a set of mono ball front strut supports, and rear adjustable spring perches. Will also add turbo tie rods and a rack spacer to help with bump steer.
Brakes: will be stock, if not functioning PMB will get a call, and parts shipped out to them for rebuilding. I will also add bronze bushings to the pedal cluster.
Wheels and tires: I have a set of stock Mahles, hate to drive on them. I currently have a set of fake Mahles on it. Still looking for a set of Minilites in 6.5x15”. I should have never sold them.
I purchased my first set of Jon and Nancy Lowe. They used them on Nancy’s yellow 914-6 for autocross.Fuel: Tangerine will come to the rescue again with a set of Chris’ fuel lines.
Electrical: JWest fuse box will be added, along with Spoke LEDs. A set of Period correct Cibie Z beams will be added, and a set of Cibie fogs will be added also. Audio wise I will add a small bluetooth amp, and leave the stock radio in place, just disconnected from the speakers.
Interior: Stock, but I will add a set of seat heaters to keep cold at bay. If passenger seat is not comfy for the wife, we will convert it over to a late style seat and back pad. At that point maybe change to a set of aftermarket seats. I would love a set of GTS LeMans
Exterior: I guessing it will be stock now. Though I am torn I liked the clean lines with out the sail panels vinyl, and warts, with the painted top. That is how Dad originally wanted it.
If the engine is not up to snuff, I will go with a small bump using Nickies, and a bump in compression. And some different cams, and a set of larger heat exchangers. Though I am really hoping to keep the costs down and live with the stock stuff it is in good working order.
Almost everything I will be doing is completely reversible, except a few exceptions and even they can be fixed if people want to drive a 914-6 with out sway bars. I would gladly do it if some one offered me stupid money for the car. As of right now it is more about the memories and giving back to my father.
So now I just need to get cracking: Wanting this done before April, would love to take Dad for a drive this spring. So what that also means, my 914 which is part of the Build Off Challenge will be resting for a little while. I had already packed up most of the part in anticipation of starting this project.
This is the garage it was stored in for 40 years.
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Saturday I brought it to my shop. Rented a U-haul trailer as all my trailers are up at the farm. Car has not seen the light of day in 40+ years.
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Now the for the fun part! Determining what is left todo on the car, and come up with a game plan.
Very cool. I am doing a similar project with my Dad's old MGBGT
that has been in my family for 25+ years. From a value standpoint it's not worth restoring, but I have great memories of my Dad and that car that make the project exciting for me.
QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 23 2017, 08:58 PM)
From a value standpoint it's not worth restoring, but I have great memories of my Dad and that car that make the project exciting for me.
Sometimes (or oftentimes) memories are worth more than money.
QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Jan 18 2018, 12:30 PM)
QUOTE(914forme @ Jan 16 2018, 08:48 PM)
Like everything with this car one step forward 2 back. And I can not find my spanner for the insert top nut.
Meh, just use a pipe wrench...
LOL, not a pipe wrench but I did use a set of huge slip-joint pliers and a rag and so mild invention of new word combinations I got them on. I think there was something in the threads. So I chased the threads. I spun them on a couple of times and then brought out the big gun. To get both of them on good and tight.
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Both seated the same amount.
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And then it was quick work to assemble everything else.
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I only switch the chamber plates 3 times
First time I did it right though I did it wrong 
The second time I thought I did it right only to assemble them wrong
The third time I did it just like the first time only to know I am correct this time
Progress makes perfect. Keep it up!
Yea! He's back!
We missed you...
We missed you...
Thank you both, feels good to get some stuff done on a none priority vehicle.
Tonight in this episode of parts that don't fit.
You'll see a manufacturer that says they have ISO 9001 rating.
You'll see a man void all waranties
And I invent some new words
I could never get the ball joints in the arm to seat properly. Or at least to my likely. So out came the calipers.
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So the opening of the ball joint needed to be opened up just a tad.
A diamond wheel and a bit of grinding latter with the Dremel and Ta Da!
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Much Better
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Little ceramic anti-seize and more brand new parts. And this side is together.
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The retainer clip that keeps the ball joint nut from backing off, does not fir the tabs on the ball joint.
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So which part to modify this time. The retainer or the ball joint. I'm pissed at the ball joint manufacturer so why not. And the both of the retainers fit the other ball joint. Crappy quality control.
Took the big slip joint pliers and modified the retainer tabs. And one side all done.
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Well, the other side I had to modify the tab area of the ball joint by the same amount. And rest of the assembly went much smoother.
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Called it a night.
Tonight in this episode of parts that don't fit.
You'll see a manufacturer that says they have ISO 9001 rating.
You'll see a man void all waranties
And I invent some new words
I could never get the ball joints in the arm to seat properly. Or at least to my likely. So out came the calipers.
Click to view attachment
So the opening of the ball joint needed to be opened up just a tad.
A diamond wheel and a bit of grinding latter with the Dremel and Ta Da!
Click to view attachment
Much Better
Click to view attachment
Little ceramic anti-seize and more brand new parts. And this side is together.
Click to view attachment
The retainer clip that keeps the ball joint nut from backing off, does not fir the tabs on the ball joint.
Click to view attachment
So which part to modify this time. The retainer or the ball joint. I'm pissed at the ball joint manufacturer so why not. And the both of the retainers fit the other ball joint. Crappy quality control.
Took the big slip joint pliers and modified the retainer tabs. And one side all done.
Click to view attachment
Well, the other side I had to modify the tab area of the ball joint by the same amount. And rest of the assembly went much smoother.
Click to view attachment
Called it a night.
Is it going to be together in time to caravan down to Okteenerfest?
Good to see you've the time to work on your projects again Stephen. Maybe production outside of China will become a reality with the new tariffs imposed. 
QUOTE(Amenson @ Mar 26 2018, 10:04 PM)
Is it going to be together in time to caravan down to Okteenerfest?
Yes, that is the plan. I want to get it up and running trailer it down to Okteenerfest, and enjoy the drive with my father. That is the reason I plan on towing down. Might have an empty trailer on the way back though if I take some side trips. The plan is to take Mom and Dad down to enjoy the drive, the scenery, and well the 914-6. And then all the great people and 914s that make Okteenerfest so enjoyable.
Kent, I just want parts that fit
I can get bogged down in the details if I let my inner German engineer take over. Hell, that guy almost cost me two fingers! Sometimes I just have to tell that guy NO, it will be fine, it is good enough, and let's get this done. I won't even tell you how much time I spent looking at these ball joints just to put them back into the box for another day. Check and re-check part numbers to make sure I have the correct parts. You can only stare at the PET for so long before you go
I had even considered cannibalizing the EG build just to get this car done. I knew its ball joints fit, lol.
I see the guys get out the grinder all the time to make the parts fit. Many different years of parts and many repro parts often create issues. The worst is trying to make parts fit on a freshly painted chassis. I'm a strong believer of pre assembly on a primered shell but due to the labor cost, that never gets done at the shop. But then there's always time to fix the issues
Nice to see ya back Stephen. My lofty goal as well to head to Octeenerfest.
Incredible the fuss you had with the ball joints! My front struts are
Together but I haven’t indexed the ball joints yet. See if they fit properly.
Keep at it. Looking good
Incredible the fuss you had with the ball joints! My front struts are
Together but I haven’t indexed the ball joints yet. See if they fit properly.
Keep at it. Looking good
Mark, only people with deep pockets get to build a car the 100% correct way. If I was a betting man, I would guess even Singer has a few items that get installed after the paint has flown, and all the pre-fitting is done. I am trying this approach on the EG build, but am thinking when I get back on that one it's going to be a raw build. Not sure I can take making it too pretty without being able to
Luckily this car will have a bit of touchup to be done. And everything that I have for this car is a "bolt on" So far I have not let my welders touch the chassis. For me, that is like being a crack addict with a pipe, a bag, and a lighter, and not hitting that 
I keep looking at the swaybar re-enforcements thinking they really need to be
Thank you, Dion, hope to see you at Okteenerfest
Luckily this car will have a bit of touchup to be done. And everything that I have for this car is a "bolt on"
So far I have not let my welders touch the chassis. For me, that is like being a crack addict with a pipe, a bag, and a lighter, and not hitting that I keep looking at the swaybar re-enforcements thinking they really need to be
Thank you, Dion, hope to see you at Okteenerfest
QUOTE(Dion @ Mar 27 2018, 01:36 PM)
Nice to see ya back Stephen. My lofty goal as well to head to Octeenerfest.
Incredible the fuss you had with the ball joints! My front struts are
Together but I haven’t indexed the ball joints yet. See if they fit properly.
Keep at it. Looking good
At least you will have some big brakes to stop that beast.
QUOTE(914forme @ Mar 27 2018, 09:28 AM)
QUOTE(Amenson @ Mar 26 2018, 10:04 PM)
Is it going to be together in time to caravan down to Okteenerfest?
Yes, that is the plan. I want to get it up and running trailer it down to Okteenerfest, and enjoy the drive with my father. That is the reason I plan on towing down. Might have an empty trailer on the way back though if I take some side trips. The plan is to take Mom and Dad down to enjoy the drive, the scenery, and well the 914-6. And then all the great people and 914s that make Okteenerfest so enjoyable.
Empty trailer on the way back....does that mean that I can turn up the boost and show everyone what the insides of a Suby 5mt look like scattered throughout the countryside and still get PorSTI back to OH!?
Scott that is always a choice, let's see if we make the goal. Hitting the mark will be the first thing to see if turning up the wick on that time bomb is an option. Afterall you should have enough meat under the rear now that shooting gears all over the countryside is now an option. 
One item I see getting in the way of not having a driver is the engine. I have two of them both in unknown condition. Both might require machine work, and that machine work might be fast, might be slow.
I really need to get the engines on a stand and see where they stand.
But first, this chassis needs to become a roller again.
One item I see getting in the way of not having a driver is the engine. I have two of them both in unknown condition. Both might require machine work, and that machine work might be fast, might be slow.
I really need to get the engines on a stand and see where they stand.
But first, this chassis needs to become a roller again.
A bit more progress:
Worked on getting the old rotor off the passenger side rear. Like everything on this car, it rusted solid. Sitting is a real bitch on cars.
First up get the rotor off the hub. I used a couple of cap head screws I had around. Could not get the rotor keeper screw out. So I drilled it out. Remnants still need to be removed. Letting it soak in some penetrant.
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Backing plates need to be cleaned up.
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Old Shocks off and replaced with these Bilsiens. Custom valved, adjustable colors, 140lbs springs, monoball shock tops.
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Installed - required a 38mm socket. Good thing I work on large machinery otherwise I would not have a 38mm around. Yes it is a 3/4" drive, bit over kill for a shock top nut. Never thought I would be using 3/4" stuff on a 914
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Rear Arm still has to come off get cleaned up, have the pivot arm bushings installed, and new bearings installed.
Onto the passenger front
Hub and parts all laid out.
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All assembled
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Struts and Arm in place and mocking up the brake calipers
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Alfa GT Brake Caliper, why you might ask. 3" caliper bolt spacing, larger pads, lighter calipers. think of them as a 911S Alloy caliper for the 3" strut.
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Had to remake the caliper hard line
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The small piece is the part I cut from the PMB original line. These SS lines are hard. Also tested the flare on the SS line using the scrap piece. Screw it up first before doing the real line. I will take a picture of the original and the modified line. Before I duplicate it for the drivers side. Luckly I have the proper tools to form them and remake the flare. But man SS is hard to work with.
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That is where I stoped late last night
All of this to get this car off the lift so I can do a timing belt on the wife's EOS, and all the other odd spring jobs that come up. I really need a couple of lifts. a 4 poster to store stuff in a vertical fashion. A couple of mid rises, as I like to move my stuff around to fit the need of the work. Bolted down 2 posts just don't work for me. I have some stuff that is over 30 feet long. Everything in the shop is on wheels, so when I need to get the big stuff in, smaller stuff just moves around.
"Times a wasting time to get wrenching"
Worked on getting the old rotor off the passenger side rear. Like everything on this car, it rusted solid. Sitting is a real bitch on cars.
First up get the rotor off the hub. I used a couple of cap head screws I had around. Could not get the rotor keeper screw out. So I drilled it out. Remnants still need to be removed. Letting it soak in some penetrant.
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Backing plates need to be cleaned up.
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Old Shocks off and replaced with these Bilsiens. Custom valved, adjustable colors, 140lbs springs, monoball shock tops.
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Installed - required a 38mm socket. Good thing I work on large machinery otherwise I would not have a 38mm around. Yes it is a 3/4" drive, bit over kill for a shock top nut. Never thought I would be using 3/4" stuff on a 914
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Rear Arm still has to come off get cleaned up, have the pivot arm bushings installed, and new bearings installed.
Onto the passenger front
Hub and parts all laid out.
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All assembled
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Struts and Arm in place and mocking up the brake calipers
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Alfa GT Brake Caliper, why you might ask. 3" caliper bolt spacing, larger pads, lighter calipers. think of them as a 911S Alloy caliper for the 3" strut.
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Had to remake the caliper hard line
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The small piece is the part I cut from the PMB original line. These SS lines are hard. Also tested the flare on the SS line using the scrap piece. Screw it up first before doing the real line. I will take a picture of the original and the modified line. Before I duplicate it for the drivers side. Luckly I have the proper tools to form them and remake the flare. But man SS is hard to work with.
Click to view attachment
That is where I stoped late last night
All of this to get this car off the lift so I can do a timing belt on the wife's EOS, and all the other odd spring jobs that come up. I really need a couple of lifts. a 4 poster to store stuff in a vertical fashion. A couple of mid rises, as I like to move my stuff around to fit the need of the work. Bolted down 2 posts just don't work for me. I have some stuff that is over 30 feet long. Everything in the shop is on wheels, so when I need to get the big stuff in, smaller stuff just moves around.
"Times a wasting time to get wrenching"
I made two steps forward and the two steps back to move three steps forward in the end.
So the short of the long I got al the suspension in place on the front, and looked over to see the steering rack under the bench
Take everything back out, instal the steering rack, and put it al back in. So where I was today when I stopped to eat at 3pm is where I once again am when I stopped tonight.
Frustrating to say the least. Not sure how I forgot that piece.
First thing this morning I made the second brake line for the drivers side. And fitted it up on the bench.
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The Alfa calipers are a bit big, so the stock rain shields have to modified just a bit to make them fit.
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Trim a straight line from point A to B then debur.
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Passenger side is done, well almost I need to get a 803 615 715, not sure where that got to
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Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And need to build the swayer drop links, some semi joints and tube, easy enough.
So the short of the long I got al the suspension in place on the front, and looked over to see the steering rack under the bench
Take everything back out, instal the steering rack, and put it al back in. So where I was today when I stopped to eat at 3pm is where I once again am when I stopped tonight.
Frustrating to say the least. Not sure how I forgot that piece.
First thing this morning I made the second brake line for the drivers side. And fitted it up on the bench.
Click to view attachment
The Alfa calipers are a bit big, so the stock rain shields have to modified just a bit to make them fit.
Click to view attachment
Trim a straight line from point A to B then debur.
Click to view attachment
Passenger side is done, well almost I need to get a 803 615 715, not sure where that got to
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And need to build the swayer drop links, some semi joints and tube, easy enough.
Sunday:
Got some time over Easter after all the festivities and people started taking naps. My wife and I went off and let the sleeping beauties sleep. She went off to work in the years, one of her favorite things to do. I went off to work in the shop, one of my favorite things to do.
Did not take any pictures so, sorry it was a productive afternoon.
Got drivers side (left) front suspension done. Installed the turbo tie rods, no issues.
Moved to the back, installed the other rear shock. Dropped the left side rear arm for cleanup. Removed all the brake lines, started installing the PMB Stainless lines. Pretty close match, I like them, a tad bit of tweaking to get them just right.
Pulled the Rear Brake Prop valve. Check PMB for rebuild if they do the -6 valve.
Pulled all the 9-14-6 shifter stuff out of the tunnel.
Installed Tangerine's racings conversion spherical ball linkage bushing on the firewall. As always stuff.
Pushed the 914-6 back over to one side of the shop. I did not drop the Passenger (right) side arm as I can get to it where it sits.
Monday:
Got my invoice from PMB for the prop valve, very reasonable. Paid for that one. They do rebuild them,
Got my shipping label printed off, and ready to make the shipment.
Searched for a supplier that has the parts I need. Spent lots of time in the PET
QTY 2 - 900-013-037-02 counter sunk screws to retain the rear brake rotors.
QTY 1 - 803-611-715 retainer spring for the brake lines on the strut, or rear arm. I lost one HTF does that happen, everything was bagged and tagged.
Swaybar drop links, I built the for my EG Build / Auto-X car, and can't find where I got them from.
SS nuts and washers for the transmission case, as I am there might as well finish it up with hardware.
Today's goals
Get the box packed with the prop valve, and ready to ship, my post office closes at 4pm
small town living at its finest right there.
Clean up the driver (right) rear arm, prep for paint. I also prep to change out the bushings with the Rebel Racing parts I have. Trying to keep the project creep from kicking in. Tangerine racing makes some real nice stuff for trailing arms.
Order the parts I need from the above list.
Drop the left side trailing arm
Install suspension cross brace on the farm truck. - if it shows up today
Install windshield wipers on wife's EOS if they show up today, Amazon
me on these.
Eating the Elephant
Got some time over Easter after all the festivities and people started taking naps. My wife and I went off and let the sleeping beauties sleep. She went off to work in the years, one of her favorite things to do. I went off to work in the shop, one of my favorite things to do.
Did not take any pictures so, sorry it was a productive afternoon.
Got drivers side (left) front suspension done. Installed the turbo tie rods, no issues.
Moved to the back, installed the other rear shock. Dropped the left side rear arm for cleanup. Removed all the brake lines, started installing the PMB Stainless lines. Pretty close match, I like them, a tad bit of tweaking to get them just right.
Pulled the Rear Brake Prop valve. Check PMB for rebuild if they do the -6 valve.
Pulled all the 9-14-6 shifter stuff out of the tunnel.
Installed Tangerine's racings conversion spherical ball linkage bushing on the firewall. As always
stuff.Pushed the 914-6 back over to one side of the shop. I did not drop the Passenger (right) side arm as I can get to it where it sits.
Monday:
Got my invoice from PMB for the prop valve, very reasonable. Paid for that one. They do rebuild them,
Got my shipping label printed off, and ready to make the shipment.
Searched for a supplier that has the parts I need. Spent lots of time in the PET
QTY 2 - 900-013-037-02 counter sunk screws to retain the rear brake rotors.
QTY 1 - 803-611-715 retainer spring for the brake lines on the strut, or rear arm. I lost one HTF does that happen, everything was bagged and tagged.
Swaybar drop links, I built the for my EG Build / Auto-X car, and can't find where I got them from.
SS nuts and washers for the transmission case, as I am there might as well finish it up with hardware.
Today's goals
Get the box packed with the prop valve, and ready to ship, my post office closes at 4pm
small town living at its finest right there. Clean up the driver (right) rear arm, prep for paint. I also prep to change out the bushings with the Rebel Racing parts I have. Trying to keep the project creep from kicking in. Tangerine racing makes some real nice stuff for trailing arms.
Order the parts I need from the above list.
Drop the left side trailing arm
Install suspension cross brace on the farm truck. - if it shows up today
Install windshield wipers on wife's EOS if they show up today, Amazon
me on these. Eating the Elephant
Great progress
Those front calipers are my favorite part of the build! Will be interesting to see how many people notice that they are Brembo's when it is on the ground.
Those front calipers are my favorite part of the build! Will be interesting to see how many people notice that they are Brembo's when it is on the ground.
New Tool Tuesday
Okay so if you can't find the tool you need you make one.
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Rotabores
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Now it becomes a bit clearer what I am doing
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big stick driven into the flange
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All welded up
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Big long handle allows it to mount in my vice, or used on the car. For now it is being used in the vice.
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This is very handy for taking that nut off to remove the stub axle.
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More work to come latter tonight.
On a sad note you see my Portaband on the floor. Using it and it slipped out of the vice and hit the floor. Carnage ensued! I need to make a mount for it to better support it while working with it. Or I need to pickup a larger floor standing band saw. Work has a couple 26" units coming up for auction
Need to do 3 phase in the shop oh that opens a whole new can of worms.
Will also need to add a machine room to the side of the shop. Another 40 x 60 should do the trick.
Okay so if you can't find the tool you need you make one.
Click to view attachment
RotaboresClick to view attachment
Now it becomes a bit clearer what I am doing
Click to view attachment
big stick driven into the flange
Click to view attachment
All welded up
Click to view attachment
Big long handle allows it to mount in my vice, or used on the car. For now it is being used in the vice.
Click to view attachment
This is very handy for taking that nut off to remove the stub axle.
Click to view attachment
More work to come latter tonight.
On a sad note you see my Portaband on the floor. Using it and it slipped out of the vice and hit the floor. Carnage ensued! I need to make a mount for it to better support it while working with it. Or I need to pickup a larger floor standing band saw. Work has a couple 26" units coming up for auction
Need to do 3 phase in the shop oh that opens a whole new can of worms. Will also need to add a machine room to the side of the shop. Another 40 x 60 should do the trick.
A converter for three phase may be worth looking into. Made one years ago with a few parts. My friend still runs a mill and a lathe with it. Found the plans online.
Your Alfa brakes look great. Lots of work, frustration but you'll be happy in the end.
Active Day working on many projects from Dad's -6 to keeping my old iPhone off the workbench.
First up working on rebuilding the rear trailing arms. Pressed out the rear pivot bushing and tube. Upgrading them to Rebel Racing parts. But as everything with this project, it did not go as planned. One of the rubber bushings got stuck in the arm. I finally got it moved to one of the ends, and drove it in so it did not moved. Grabbed a drywall saw and cut one side of the bushing. Grabbed some long needle nose pliers. And twisted the end and finally got it out.
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Seam welded the rear pivot cup, do this to all my 914s. Just makes me feel better. And yes it allowed me to get my on.
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the item beside the outer cup, is a mount for my portaband. Don't want to see it fall on the floor again. You can pull one pin and use the portaband as a handheld saw. It is handy to have a portable bandsaw.
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I use a foot switch to control the on off. Allows two hands on the project.
Mounts into my older Record Vice. YES I love this vice it has been with me for years. I need a few more vices in the shop.
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I had to test my new stand out with the Portaband. So I mounted my old iPhone on the door of one of my cabinets. Built a a simple mount that holds the case to the door. Easy, keep it out of the dirt and grime of the work bench.
Click to view attachment
That is it for tonight, off to work on some gauges.
First up working on rebuilding the rear trailing arms. Pressed out the rear pivot bushing and tube. Upgrading them to Rebel Racing parts. But as everything with this project, it did not go as planned. One of the rubber bushings got stuck in the arm. I finally got it moved to one of the ends, and drove it in so it did not moved. Grabbed a drywall saw and cut one side of the bushing. Grabbed some long needle nose pliers. And twisted the end and finally got it out.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Seam welded the rear pivot cup, do this to all my 914s. Just makes me feel better. And yes it allowed me to get my
on.Click to view attachment
the item beside the outer cup, is a mount for my portaband. Don't want to see it fall on the floor again. You can pull one pin and use the portaband as a handheld saw. It is handy to have a portable bandsaw.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
I use a foot switch to control the on off. Allows two hands on the project.
Mounts into my older Record Vice. YES I love this vice it has been with me for years. I need a few more vices in the shop.
Click to view attachment
I had to test my new stand out with the Portaband. So I mounted my old iPhone on the door of one of my cabinets. Built a a simple mount that holds the case to the door. Easy, keep it out of the dirt and grime of the work bench.
Click to view attachment
That is it for tonight, off to work on some gauges.
I've been thinking about buying a portable band saw just for metal cutting. Any tips on building a jig w/ table?
QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 15 2018, 11:28 AM)
I've been thinking about buying a portable band saw just for metal cutting. Any tips on building a jig w/ table?
I need to redo my table. I bought this one used from a pawn shop. Great deal, as cheap as Harbor freights better quality. The Dewalt version the top handle unscrews making it easier to bolt to a stand.
I am going to make a new blade guide to use when using it I mounted. It was broken when I picked this one up. So the blade guide will be a tad bigger than the original. But it will allow me to bolt the top plate to the saw. Will most likely make a frame out of steel. And then screw a piece of melamine to it for the top. Nice and flat, yet easily replaceable when needed.
It works well for what I do, but every time I’m in Scott’s shop I see his big band saw and I think man I need one of those. It’s eats up shop space, and I have ways of cutting bigger stuff.
I’ll detail out what I come up with.
The stand was made out of flat steel and angle . Easy enough, and cost a few bucks. Steel was out of Lowe’s clearance. Stuff was so cheap, I drove from store to store buying all the had. Idiots it was cheaper than what the scrapers where paying for used unclean steel. I bought every stick I could buy. And been using it up for years. Love getting bargins on raw materials I can use to build.
Welding wire is a Blue Demin product designed for galvanized steel. Burns a bit hotter, and sparks a bit more. I like the penatration and puddle cleaning I’m getting with it. Oh and the slag comes off in sections great product for heavier welded items. I also used I to seem weld the cups. Worked great I stand blasted the cups before. Welded them up, nice and clean puddle, containers burn off. Bit more smoke, but that hose leads to a lLicoln fume extractor. That thing is the best. Need to build an adjustable arm for the extractor.. shop stays nice and clean.
Got the rear suspension off the passenger side. Used the fixture from Chris' raised rear suspension pickup point. And now it is up on jack stands.
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Needed it to get some work done on another car. Brother in-Law came by and needed some heat shield repair on his car. Lift made this very easy.
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Just want to make it clear, life gets in the way. Work, Family, other people dropping stuff off for you to fix because your a mechanic, welder, machinist, nice person. Just go with it, carve out a bit of time to do what you want. You always have the right to say NO!
The above car, came in for one thing, change spark plugs. Left with attempting to find an oil leak, fixing a heat shield issue. That stuff is like tin foil. And cleaning up the plastic headlamps. I put so dye in the oil to see if I can locate the leak at a latter date.
What really bugged me was when I took it for the test drive before I did any work, I noticed a clunking every time I hit a bump. Most likely the strut top bushings or shock bushings. He did not want me to dig deeper into that. This to me is more important than the minor drip drip oil leak. Each their own.
After that it was working on Dad's mower, he is getting older as the reason for this thread, and well installing this muffler seemed to take for ever. When I jumped in I found out why. Threads where all buggered up. Drilled out and nut served them. Mount Bracket was screwed up also. Drilled up one size, and bolted it on. Then the it cuts an odd pattern. Started looking at it, and found a lift cable broke. Found the reviews that these cables are a notorious issue. Found some one making replacement steel lift arms, I could fabricate them myself, but at $7.50 per pair, why?
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Needed it to get some work done on another car. Brother in-Law came by and needed some heat shield repair on his car. Lift made this very easy.
Click to view attachment
Just want to make it clear, life gets in the way. Work, Family, other people dropping stuff off for you to fix because your a mechanic, welder, machinist, nice person. Just go with it, carve out a bit of time to do what you want. You always have the right to say NO!
The above car, came in for one thing, change spark plugs. Left with attempting to find an oil leak, fixing a heat shield issue. That stuff is like tin foil. And cleaning up the plastic headlamps. I put so dye in the oil to see if I can locate the leak at a latter date.
What really bugged me was when I took it for the test drive before I did any work, I noticed a clunking every time I hit a bump. Most likely the strut top bushings or shock bushings. He did not want me to dig deeper into that. This to me is more important than the minor drip drip oil leak. Each their own.
After that it was working on Dad's mower, he is getting older as the reason for this thread, and well installing this muffler seemed to take for ever. When I jumped in I found out why. Threads where all buggered up. Drilled out and nut served them. Mount Bracket was screwed up also. Drilled up one size, and bolted it on. Then the it cuts an odd pattern. Started looking at it, and found a lift cable broke. Found the reviews that these cables are a notorious issue. Found some one making replacement steel lift arms, I could fabricate them myself, but at $7.50 per pair, why?
Let the parts gathering continue.
Some times a box full of peanuts and brown paper brings you more than drugs wrapped in coffee.
Today they brought me a different form of addiction.
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Yes PMO Carburetors, will at least make the 914-6 go. Need to check the specifications of everything and get parts on order to make them right for the engine, car and altitude.
Did not unwrap them as I was putting them into storage, along with the digital ignition system.
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EFI will be down the road, right now I need to get this car running. Everything else can happen as smaller projects to make the car better.
Some times a box full of peanuts and brown paper brings you more than drugs wrapped in coffee.
Today they brought me a different form of addiction.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Yes PMO Carburetors, will at least make the 914-6 go. Need to check the specifications of everything and get parts on order to make them right for the engine, car and altitude.
Did not unwrap them as I was putting them into storage, along with the digital ignition system.
Click to view attachment
EFI will be down the road, right now I need to get this car running. Everything else can happen as smaller projects to make the car better.
Can I ask where you sourced your rear shock top monoballs?
QUOTE(Travis Neff @ Jul 2 2018, 06:11 PM)
Can I ask where you sourced your rear shock top monoballs?
They are from Tarret and man the price went up.
I have been doing a lot of gauge building for a few people, while I am waiting for a process to complete, I got back on Dad's -6 today doing a lot of the stuff that needs to be done. Prepping parts for cleaning, rust removal and paint. I am onto the rear suspension of the car.
Love getting in the shop
Up frist pulling hubs out of the arm and bearings off the backs of stubs. I mount the hub in the arm. Use my SirTools bearing puller to pull the hub out. Then go after the bearing race that always stays on the back side. These can be a bugger to get off. Mounted in my handy hub tool. I could take a cold chisel and give it a couple on each side 180 degrees apart. That made enough space to get my bearing puller onto the back side.
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Note th homemade centering and surface the bearing puller goes against. It is designed to center in the hub, and then hold the bearing puller screw in the center also. Makes for an easy pull. Simple to make a 3/8 wash on the top of 1/4 Steel from the scrap bin and a 3/4" nut on the back side with the points rounded off. Not pretty, does a great job.
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I took apart both arms, and did 6 sets of hubs off bearings.
Carnage as follows documentation makes me feel like I got something done today.
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Late model 911 hub centric hubs on the left, original 914-6 hub on the right. Going hub centric - will need to machine the bearing spacer for the hub.
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108mm stubs - 930 CVs here we come, no worries about CV joints.
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Parts broken down. And a wheel that fell of the mower deck of one of the big tractors. Solid wheel because the area it mows has Locus trees, and the thrones eat deck tires for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with a snack in-between. I need to get that one done, have not ordered the tire yet.
Now to spend days cleaning all this up in prep for paint. And get parts ordered that are need to finish this up.
Love getting in the shop
Up frist pulling hubs out of the arm and bearings off the backs of stubs. I mount the hub in the arm. Use my SirTools bearing puller to pull the hub out. Then go after the bearing race that always stays on the back side. These can be a bugger to get off. Mounted in my handy hub tool. I could take a cold chisel and give it a couple
on each side 180 degrees apart. That made enough space to get my bearing puller onto the back side.Click to view attachment
Note th homemade centering and surface the bearing puller goes against. It is designed to center in the hub, and then hold the bearing puller screw in the center also. Makes for an easy pull. Simple to make a 3/8 wash on the top of 1/4 Steel from the scrap bin and a 3/4" nut on the back side with the points rounded off. Not pretty, does a great job.
Click to view attachment
I took apart both arms, and did 6 sets of hubs off bearings.
Carnage as follows documentation makes me feel like I got something done today.
Click to view attachment
Late model 911 hub centric hubs on the left, original 914-6 hub on the right. Going hub centric - will need to machine the bearing spacer for the hub.
Click to view attachment
108mm stubs - 930 CVs here we come, no worries about CV joints.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Parts broken down. And a wheel that fell of the mower deck of one of the big tractors. Solid wheel because the area it mows has Locus trees, and the thrones eat deck tires for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with a snack in-between. I need to get that one done, have not ordered the tire yet.
Now to spend days cleaning all this up in prep for paint. And get parts ordered that are need to finish this up.
QUOTE(914forme @ Oct 22 2017, 05:39 PM)
Now to keep me off the slacker list
Did a few things 914-6 related
First up Passenger side sway bar mount. At least Prep.
For refresher I am using Brad's mount on the 914-6
Click to view attachment
So I signed up the backside with the notch in the wheel well and used a transfer punch to set my first screw location. Drilled it, opened it ou for the bolt, and bolted it together. Moved the transfer punch to the next hole, and got a center mark, and drilled it out. I then bolted the sway bar mount in place to give me the location of the lower hole. I marked the center, and then drilled a pilot and then used a step drill to punch it out to clear the not on he back side of the Brad's outer plate.
That all done it looks like this.
Click to view attachment'
So then I need to mark the center one the swatbar location. Since I was missing time on my metal lathe, I turned a spacer down.
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Fits like a precision glove, well because it is a precision fit.
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Transfer punch inserted in the last picture , give it a few hits with the hammer, and disassemble the pieces one last time. Probably not
Drill a pilot hole and then drill the hole.
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Tools of the trade to fit these, in a pile on the floor.
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Small Ball Peen hammer
Socke wrench, extension and socket
Transfer Punches
Close Quarters drill - pilot holes
1/2 inch drill - step drill
Rotabroach to drill the big hole
Final Big hole drilled
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And in place, well I', holding it in place, did not feel like bolting it all together to take it apart again.
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Next up for this side is clean the undercoating. Scuff up the paint, and JB weld it to the car. Yes normally I would weld, but since I don't want to repaint, where the weld would burn off paint, it will be JB Weld. Brad says it will work, and I see no reason it would not work.
I tend to measure project success and the amount of fun I have had by the number of chips, pile of metal shavings, and metal abound.
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Successful and fun day
Oh the not fun part of my day, I have been working on one of the sets of MiniLites I have. Prepping for paint, as they where in good condition. But lots of small paint chips, and different colors. So following the instructions off a wheel restore that works on Ferrari Mag wheels I got to this point.
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That one was sitting on my stool that turns, hate the stool, but it does a great job for painting wheels
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And the last one, all where baking in the afternoon sun
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Hope to get a bit more done on the wheels over the week, but maybe I will focus on the sway bar mounts and install. Would like to start having the car go back together.
And well my plan is to put it together, as McMark says a running driving 914 beats any of them that are on jack stands any day.
Stephen, what was the step drill used for vs the Rotabroach? - and what sizes were they? Thanks !
1/2 inch drill - step drill
Rotabroach to drill the big hole
The Rotabroach was the size of the swayer reinforcement, can't remember the exact size. The Step drill I used to drill the bolt holes, I like using step drill because they debut the hole at the same time. The Rota's are great for drilling big in sheet metals, leave a nice clean hole. Love them.
Hope that answered the question and made it clearer.
Hope that answered the question and made it clearer.
Since you mentioned Derby and it is Derby week I thought I would post this:
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