correct

M sent.... in VA also

Can anyone tell me what these are & where they go? Base paint same red as body, but painted over with black. Hard rubber. Can't find anywhere on car that they would go, looks like bumper part.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

one more coming....

GN

Those are blocks that support the fuel tank in the fuel tank recess. They just "sit" in there and the tank sits on top of them (and is also has a retaining strap).

Click to view attachment

Gas tank supports.

Fuel tank supports? IIRC, they go between the body and the tank to prevent metal on metal.

Hope this helps!

Steve A-

Thanks Rob & Arne!

I would have NEVER guessed that. Tank not in car when I got it.

Gotta get than Haynes manual asap.....strap and felt supports are fine.

GN

If you're not too far from Silver Spring, MD, I can help you with the D-Jet system. I've gotten familiar with the system over the last couple of years, and it's pretty simple (and primitive) as EFI systems go. Most of the parts can be tested fairly easily, and a surprising number of parts are still available for it (either OEM new, reproduction or replacement components).

Bill -

Wow - thanks. Plan is to first see how car runs on Weber 44's. If it runs well with them, I'll leave them on for now but still purchase the system from Ken so I can switch anytime I want.

It does look VERY simple as far as EFI systems go....even simpler that what was on a '72 Volvo if I remember correctly. No Mass Airflow sensor.

You are about 2 1/2 hours away - depending on I-95 traffic! so it could be 4 hours. I had an office on Route 50 just west of 495 years ago and could make it there in 2 hours - but traffic has since increased a lot.

One guy told me with my electrical background and experience with EFI he thought I could put the system in in 3 hours. If so, that would be good news.

GN

Ok Friends - 1st stage detailing just finished - good news/bad news - but great pics - see here if interested....

A great find for $3k? Wow. I'm amazed, as was my detailer who specializes in Porsches - mostly high end ones - but who has seen and done a lot of 914's - he says this is one of the cleanest he's ever seen that is not a full restoration.......bumpers coming in 2nd stage


See here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2539593

looks awesome, wish mine looked that good. how does it run?

I noted earlier in the thread that as I am almost totally tied up with a major project it will be awhile before I can finish the carbs. I've just been hitting the right one now and then as I have a few free minutes. It will be a month or more before I have it running, time permitting.

Detailing could be done as someone else who did it here at my house. Normally I do mechanicals first and worry about looks last, but when my detailer saw the car he wanted to jump on it asap and I said "Have at it..."

GN

Greetings from the past my 914 friends. Been 18 months, but I'm finally in a position to jump into getting the 914 running as other projects are out of the way and it soon will be warm enough to work in my garage again.

My plan is to first get the engine running with the rebuilt Webers - again, my close friend in whose garage it sat for 12 years assured me the car was running perfectly when parked in his barn - he and the owner had been out for a good drive and my friend said it ran great.

Had the tank professionally restored with lifetime lining warranty. Fuel injection pump is correct for carbs. Need to rebuild 2nd carb & install them, soak the cylinders with some Marvel Mystery oil for a few days, put in the fuel tank assembly and get the engine running.

Lots of broken things to fix after that: rebuild rear calipers - no call back from PMB Performance after leaving a message earlier in the week. Both door handles broken, don't work. Need front left marker light. Lots of little stuff.

After having the car detailed, hail damage that was not visible before became apparent - a cosmetic issue I'll deal with last after car is running well and on the road.

I'll be needing the 914 brain trust to help me through all this uncharted territory - glad you all are here.

GN

I think PMB was at a show. They are a small shop but the best in the business.

Good luck with the car and welcome back to World.

Not sure if anyone has mentioned it (havent read through all the pages) but Dorkiphus.net is a Maryland/Virginia area based forum, and another great community of P cars & BMW.

Tried to reach them by phone, all staff were busy on other lines - left a msg. for a call-back, have never received call-back - will keep trying....

GN

Bulldog -

First I've heard of it......thanks - maybe later....lots of questions to post here first.....more coming later today......

GN

Injun - how are you? Hope you are well.

Bad news about the detailing - it revealed that both the frunk and trunk lids have hail damage. Was very well concealed before the polishing and waxing. VERY noticeable after the detailing.

Not sure what I'll do about it if anything......you only see it close-up - from a distance - as in the pics - car looks great.

Anyone with "easy" or less expensive fixes for hail damage, please let me know. Any others heard of the dry ice then hair dryer method?

Actually whole car need a complete first-class paint job - paint on trunk & frunk lids is very checkered - probably not in my budget.....

Hope to have it running in a week......left carb rebuilt & back on engine....engine bay cleaned up, tablespoon of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder as engine has not run in almost 14 years.......

GN

Mark -

Bummer. Stainless fuel lines PO had are only for engine bay. BUT, looks like fuel line from fuel pump to engine bay is late model tough fuel line - not original. So I may stick with it for the time being.

Is the procedure for putting the stainless lines in the center tunnel posted somewhere, or on YouTube?

Thanks,

GN

Just ordered new rebuilt rear calipers from PMB - and so glad I'm not having to rebuild them myself - wholly new plating on calipers, at a great price.

Be here in a week, just in time to get the car on the road....I hope......right carb is way more messed up than the left one was for some reason - 14 years of evaporated gas on everything......

GN

Working on rebuilding right carb - lot more gummed up, lot more work than left carb.

I was told early on by several that the Weber 44 carbs were too big for the 2.0 engine unless the engine had been modified internally - it has not been modified at all.

While having worked with carbs since I was 15 in 1960, I have rebuilt all kinds of carbs in my life - but Weber's are a whole new world to me. So, I bought this great book:



In this book, a chart indicates that indeed dual IDF 44's are indeed specified for this engine with 36mm venturi's - which mine have, and with the 36mm venturi's call for main jets of .155 to .160. The main jets in my carbs are .135's, which would indicate to me that there is no way these carbs are presently "too big" for the engine - with the .135 main jets.

This is great news for me.

Additionally, the experts at PMB strongly advised me to keep the Weber's on the car and to not re-install the original fuel injection - as a major 914 restorer they said too many parts cannot be replaced anymore, and they advise against it for that reason.

Seems to me someone here is an expert on Weber carbs here - can anyone remind me of who that is? Would love some pointers on initial settings for the carbs - the book has a few on initial tuning of the mixture control screws, and there may be more I haven't read yet. But it would be good to have a resource here who is an expert on these carbs.

TIA,

GN

Ok, carbs are mounted - waiting on fuel. So I'm now in the frunk - and need some tips. I'm ready to put the tank in as well as fuel filter, pump, etc.

Long ago I posted pics of the big big rubber bumpers that the tank fits in - see my post #53 - can anyone send me a pic of how they mount? Can't find any anywhere. Tank came out of car, all dis-assembled. I assume they go on the bottom rim...but where?

2nd question: Guy who did my tank resto took off the fittings from the bottom of the tank & they are gone. What size are the fittings? Do I have to get them from Porsche? Or will Pelican have them?

TIA,

GN

Saw your questions on the other thread and thought I'd answer them here.

Type 4 is the designation of the VW engine used in 914s and VW 411/412 models and later buses. It's also sometimes called the "bus engine" or rarely the "411 engine." The last two are not entirely accurate applied to 914 2L engines because the version of 2L in 914s was unique for our cars.

There were at least 3 different horsepower outputs for 2.0L 914s. 73-74 models for the US market had 7.6:1 compression ration and made 91hp, while cars for the European market had 8.0:1 compression and made 100 hp. The catalytic converter and other emissions controls reduced power for 75-76 model year cars to 88hp.

Brent - thanks for the info!

So, if my 2.0 is w/o cat & air pump, with dual 44's, any chance it's putting out 100hp?

GN

Smarter people than me will have to answer that because I don't know how much the carbs factor in the equation and I wish I did because I'll be running 40IDFs on my 2L. But the 100hp version also had higher compression flat topped pistons which is an easy upgrade. I'm not sure if there are any additional mods on the 75-76 models that reduced hp, but my guess is that with cat and air pump removed, your car would be like a 73-74 US car @91hp plus whatever the Webers add over Djet.

Thanks, Brent. Yeah, it a WAG at this point.

If I keep the car, I'll do a top-end job with a little bore & flat-topped pistons....maybe more......

GN

Good News. BAD NEWS.

Fuel tank & lines completed, tested, started engine today - 1st time in 13 years. Good news is - it started, it runs, no smoke, revs fine once above 2 grand. No unusual sounds coming from the engine. All that is good.

BAD NEWS. It took pouring fuel down carb barrels to get engine to start. It runs terribly, like it's on 2 cylinders. All new Denso iridium plugs. Dist. cap, rotor, plug wires look not that old. Have new ones ready to install.

Engine won't idle below 1,500 rpm, runs very rough, continues to miss at all RPM.

Engine will not start w/o fuel down carb barrels. It did a few times, but then would not.

Other details: drove car up our 1/2 mile road, hard to keep running, but I can tell from that little drive 3/4 mile drive with a poor running engine that I'm going to love driving this car if I can get it running well.

I wish I thought the problem is ignition. But I'm strongly inclined initially to think the problems are in the carburetors - especially the right one which was really gummed up badly. Did a complete rebuild on both carbs, and while I'm very experienced at rebuilding carbs, I've never done Weber's before - and boy - are they different.

So first is to eliminate ignition as the main problem - compression test - then on to the carbs.

Other good news: all new rebuilt calipers on rear from PMB Performance, new rotors & pads from AutoAtlanta.

Not thinking that getting this engine to run well is going to be easy or simple.....

GN

4,000 miles ago Porsche dealer did compression test: 105, 105, 90, 100, prior to doing a valve adjustment.

Would not expect much difference now.

I’m by no means an engine guru. Aside from the bad carb you suspect, is the timing
within spec. Maybe that can help with the idle and erratic running through the rev range. Someone with greater experience will chime in I’m sure.
Good luck!

Thanks, Dion - but doubt that is the issue. Local Porsche dealer put the carbs on just 2,000 miles ago and thoroughly tuned the car for the carbs. 4k mis. ago they did a full tune-up of the D-jet system. My good friend in whose barn car was stored told me it was running perfectly 13 years ago when the owner drove it in his barn with him in the right seat.

For sure I'll check timing - but doubt that's the issue. The engine is missing badly at all
RPM.

Thanks for the help tho!

Wondering if there is a Weber guru out there who might give me some pointers on troubleshooting the carbs? Tomorrow I'm going to hold engine at 2,000 rpm & spray fuel in each cylinder venturi to see if that smooths things out - seems to me that that surely would expose the carb and cylinder if one is not working properly.

Going back to my Weber carb book too - but pretty sure it didn't cover major running issues like I currently have.

GN

Is there a Weber guru who can help me with my carbs?

Engine won't run unless idle speed screw is turned in so far that the idle mixture screws are not in effect - won't idle below about 1800/2000 rpm.

Followed all procedures in Tomlinson's "Weber Tech Manual" but nothing works.

Ignition seems fine.

TIA,

GN

Found this great site and will be going through this procedure with care.....and will report on the results.......

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_...nt_controls.htm

GN

Take a look at this one too:
http://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetors-jetting-102/

It was pointed out to me on another thread and full of good info.

This is my first post on this site so I may be doing it wrong but just wanted to respond that i’m An old 914 guy who has drifted away over the past 20 years. Now would like to get my old ‘74 2.0 running again. I live in Charlottesville and would enjoy connecting with 914 people again.

May want to start a new thread separate from this one. Introduce yourself and tell us more about you and your car so we can help. Pics are always good!

Good to have more people from VA here.

Welcome to 914world! Great folk here, lotsa help - almost anything you could want to know.

I'm between Richmond and you, so we must get together.

Just like BeatNavy said, start a new thread and introduce yourself - that's what I did here almost 2 years ago - see my first post.......

GN

Thanks BB -

Today I found only 1 of my accelerator pump jets is working, and that one not well. All mixture screw passages are clear.

I've decided to do another rebuild on the carbs, this time carefully checking each and every circuit for proper flow before putting them back on the car. Too many things are not working right. I'm learning more and more on how the Weber's are designed and work, and my engine just isn't going to run properly until I do.

The good news is the engine seems to run fine and sounds good mechanically - no smoke, actually sounds pretty good above 3k rpm.

So, I've got a lot of work to do. Good part is the 2nd time you do something, it takes less than half the time as you know the route.

As far as re-jetting, not even thinking about that presently:

1. Porsche dealer installed the carbs 1,500 miles ago and certified in writing that the car was running perfectly at that time.

2. My good friend - a great guy, who passed away in his sleep on April 27th at 79 (and no known health issues) assured me that when the 914 (owned by another friend of his who used to race 911's) was parked in his new barn, it was running perfectly - and he was in the right seat having just taken a ride in it.

3. Current jetting is totally supported as being correct in Tomlinson's book on Weber Carbs on VW and Porsche engines.

Thus, I'm pretty sure I do not have a jetting issue. But I will read the link you sent! Thanks!

GN

I think it will be worth while to read the link and I think the title is a little misleading as it covers more than just jetting, including those accelerator jets. I'm in a similar spot in that I'm learning how the Webers work and trying to prepare for tuning. I do need to rejet, but the reason I passed on that link is because I thought it was particularly clear in explaining when the various circuits kick in and how to dial them in. This is after reading Tomlinsons book a few times but for some reason, the aircooled.net article and the others linked on that page clicked with me. The Redline one you found was also good.

I'll be following your progress carefully as you are ahead of me on dialing in your engine and I'm sure I will learn many useful things.

Brent -

Wow - thanks for the additional info - will now get to the article sooner rather than later!

Pretty sure my problem with the jets is the acc. pump valve at the bottom of the fuel bowl - carbs sat with old gas in them for 12 years before I opened them up. Left one wasn't too bad - right one was a nightmare....not the worst I've ever seen (that was in a 1972 Honda CB350), but in that direction. Most jets and circuits clogged in right carb.

The pump jets and passageways to the pump were clear in both carbs, and rebuild kit included new pump stuff - but not the valves.

This time I will bench test all circuits before re-installing the carbs.........

GN

Friends -

On a completely different subject, for one of my next tasks/TTD on restoring my '76 Teener - anyone know of a "How To..." video on how to remove the front bumper? Need to R&R the right mount as PO hit something and mount is pushed back about 1".......

TIA,

GN

Aviator 32 -

PM me your email address and phone number and let's get together - I live between Richmond & Charlottesville......

GN

[/quote]

This is my first post on this site so I may be doing it wrong but just wanted to respond that i’m An old 914 guy who has drifted away over the past 20 years. Now would like to get my old ‘74 2.0 running again. I live in Charlottesville and would enjoy connecting with 914 people again.
[/quote]

Just four bolts...access from inside the wheel well way up front... mine are Allen heads... big maybe 8mm tool....

Thanks Windsurfer! Will check next time car is on lift!

GN

HALLELUJAH!

After a 2nd, very meticulous rebuild of the carbs, I found many details I had missed in my hasty first rebuild, and this time took meticulous care to do it right.

Old saying: "There is always time to do it over, but there is never time to do it right!" Boy am I guilty! MY BAD!

This time I finished last night and told my wife I was 99.5% sure that the engine would start and run well - without any priming.

I was so sure this morning, that I insisted that she have the honors, and put her in the driver's seat while I made sure the choke ("starter valve") on the Weber's were working.

SURE ENOUGH! Engine started easily, and even idled smoothly! THIS IS HUGE!

Engine was running so well I had to take the car up and down our 1/2 mile private road twice - car ran wonderful!

Yes - I have yet to do fine tuning on the carbs, but the great news is from here that is a minor detail.

Now that I know the car is mechanically sound, I'll be getting it registered with plates next week, and get this car on the road! I can't wait!!! It's been almost 2 years since I bought the car, and only now is it ready for the road. I've just had too much other stuff to do or it's just been too hot to work on the car.

The Bob Tomlinson Weber Tech Manual and some stuff on the web others have sent me here have been priceless help.

ONWARD!

GN

I'd love to post a short mp4 recording of the sound of the engine at fast idle, but the site will not allow me to attach that kind of file?

Any suggestions?

TIA,

GN

Most people post the vid on youtube and then follow this FAQ to embed the vid in your thread post http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=97052

Let's here that engine!

Brent -

Thanks man! YouTube's I know how to post, no problem there.....just did MP4 when my wife started the car yesterday morning.

Want to fine tune the carbs a bit, then I'll do a video.

I'm very surprised at how nice this old car sounds - having a hard time believing the exhaust is stock from the sound - but 90% sure it is all stock including the California catalytic converter that I'll remove when I have time......

GN

The 914 hit the road legally today! Put about 45 miles on her, surprised at the handling on a car with no anti-sway bars......some first-drive points:

Engine running rough, like 1 cylinder missing. But not totally - just like it's at 1/2 power of the others.

Still did 75 on the interstate.

Seems there are some weak parts in front end suspension.......

Downshifting from 4th to 3rd is a challenge.....4th to 2nd nigh impossible......

Seems like she's firing on 3 cylinders though so I've got my work cut out for me - is it carb or ignition? Right now I'm inclined to think carb.......

So here she is idling very rough - will work on fine tuning carbs in next few days.....any input/feedback is welcome......


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPK-iB5RJQo


GN

some pics....left left marker lens in frunk......she's dirty, will wash & polish soon....engine issues first.....("go" before "show")









GN