Have you determined which cylinder is 'missing' by pulling the sparky-plug wires?
Have you checked for even rate of air flow (air balance) on each carb throat with a UniSyn or other measuring device?
Have you checked/cleaned your idle jets?

If none of that fixes the issue, I'd go back to square one and verify/adjust the valve stem clearances - especially on the 'dead' cylinder. Perform the check/adjust when the motor is stone cold.

Mark -

* First following Tomlinson's detailed procedures for trouble-shooting carbs, closing idle mixture screws one by one to see which affects idle speed. If that doesn't help, will go to plug wires.

* Don't have UniSyn yet, plan to get one.

* Idle jets are like new. Just completed meticulous rebuild of carbs, using ultrasonic cleaner on all jets, all jets like new, all circuits on carbs open and flowing. Carbs are like new.

* Valves adjusted by Porsche dealer not too many miles ago

Thanks for the list!

GN

Guys & Gals - ever felt like an idiot?

After hours checking and re-checking the carbs, not understanding where I failed in my meticulous rebuild of them - I see the spark plug wire on Cyl. #3 loose! Cannot believe how well a Type 4 runs on 3 cylinders!

And can't wait to drive it tomorrow and see what it's like with all 4 hitting!

Now idling fairly smoothly at about 1,000 rpm, and transitioning to open throttle wonderfully - at least in the garage......am I a happy Teener or what?

GN


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGwHtxqGs_Q

Well, it idles well until the engine is hot, then not so good.

And while accelerator pumps and open throttle seem to work well, with partial throttle positions less than half-open (I'm guessing) there is stumbling, some coughing and an occasional back-fire.

Obviously more work to do.

Very pleased with the power of the 44's otherwise - even surprised.

Do not think the partial throttle issues are due to the size of the 44's: problems did not exist when Porsche dealer installed & tuned the carbs, and did not exist when my good friend (passed away 4/27 in his sleep at 79) rode in the car just before it was parked in his barn almost 14 years ago.

Changing oil & filter now to synthetic, then back to working on carbs....

GN

Where abouts are you at? I'm in the valley

Johnny -

Goochland County west of Richmond........valley is very long! Where in the valley? Love to get together........love to see your 6......

Richard

bottom of Shenandoah county, at most 2 hrs away

Good friend lives on the Shenadoah River just east of Front Royal......

GN

If I can get the engine running well, maybe we could meet 1/2 way somewhere......like Waynesboro? about 1:15 from me........

Is your ignition timing right on?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm

[/quote]

Is your ignition timing right on?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9.../914_timing.htm
[/quote]

Mark -

I confess I have not checked for several reasons - was done not many miles ago by Porsche dealer, and car was running perfectly when parked 14 years ago.....

I will check if nothing else pans out, but performance does not seem to indicate timing is off to me. Idles well until hot, open throttle of 1/3 or more power comes on smooth and strong.

Thanks,

Richard

Beautiful car. You’re gonna have fun with this car.we are in our second. My wife’s was the first. A 76 2.0 that was upgraded to a 2270.
Car ran well enough as a 2.0 with the 44s and runs even better as a 2270.
What distributor are you running?
How much fuel run through? Did you clean the fuel system? New rubber fuel lines?
Amazing how the fuel line breaks down, flecks off and plugs idle jets.
I’d encourage you to get the synchrometer, timing light, dwell meter. Will help you in the short and long haul.
Our second is mine. A 74 1.8 FI. Wife told me to get it and stop trying to steal hers. Okay.
It, too, is destined for a 2270, with 44’s (likely) but that’s off a ways.
Good luck and have fun with it all.

Mike - yes, see the fun coming in every drive! A bit spoiled by my Cayman S tho. Feels like I'm driving something from the early 1900's......

Know nothing about distributor - probably original - car has only 60k miles. New cap, rotor, wires, plugs.

Cleaned fuel system completely before connecting: newly lined tank, new hoses on both ends connected to original's in tunnel that were thoroughly cleaned before connecting.

Synchrometer will arrive Monday.

I am a mechanic with a full shop & tools. But never worked with Weber's, but have Tomlinson's Tech Manual and am following it closely.

Curious how you got to 2270.....????

GN

Hmmmmm.......interesting......running much better today for some reason......20 miles of mixed driving......idles usually around 1,100 - but, sometimes just dies.....?????

Big problem shifting from 3rd to 4th about half the time - want to go into 2nd, grinds the gears as the syncro can't handle the RPM.....gearshift just doesn't want to make that move from the 2/3 column to the 4/5 column......weird. Sometimes goes smoothly. Sometimes seems to refuse.......

A way to tighten the linkage?

GN

ok, my major issue now is not t he engine, but the shift linkage.

Fully 50% of the time, I cannot get from 3rd to 4th.....no matter how I am trying to get the shifter to the right from 3rd, it wants to go into 2nd - and this is really tough on the synchronizer - and probably how it was weakened. (no problem with synchronizer from 1st to 2nd).

It's like the horizontal part of the H pattern going right from 3rd does not exist, no matter how hard I try to find it.

Can the shift linkage bushings be replaced like on many vehicles? If so, is there a site like Pelican that has instructions for doing so?

TIA,

GN

Yes ... https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ift_improve.htm

Thanks Mark.......I knew it was there somewhere.......lots of the pics are missing/unavailable.....I'm a guy who needs pics.....even the parts blow-up of the shifter linkage is not available.....

I'll check with Pelican and see what's up.

Thanks again,

GN

There's 4 shift rod bushing locations in a late car.

1. The firewall bushing (figure 2).

2. The coupler bushing (pair) just aft of the firewall (also shown in figure 2).

3. The rear shift console housing (on the transaxle) where the rod enters it (not shown, but easy to find).

4. The ball cup bushing where the rear rod 'socket' contacts the lever in shift console (figure 1).

The most difficult part of the job is while you're replacing the coupler bushings. The center 'pin' needs to be pressed out to remove the old bushings (or the remnants), and pressed back in after the new bushings are installed. The outer housing (fork) is structurally weak so one needs to be real careful not to bend or break it while pressing the pin out, or back in.

Mark -

Again, thank you so much. Plan to dig into the linkage next week. Want to go back to the Pelican site to see if I can find, and print out, a blow-up of all the linkage parts so I can get a better handle on how they all work.

On test run tonight, engine is running better than ever - really strong. NO WAY these IDF 44's are too big - they seem perfectly matched, and the car has more than twice the power that I expected.....will detail in another post.

Getting from 3rd to 4th is now impossible. I may have damaged something repeatedly trying to force the shifter to the right. With a double-clutch maneuver, I can get from 3rd to 5th - and then back to 4th or just stay in 5th.

Also having trouble getting the tranny in 1st gear when stopped. Linkage is horribly sloppy and loose.....not nice sitting on an uphill incline at a busy intersection stop sign with a guy in a big truck pulled up within inches of your butt -


GN

My 914 has an MSD system - something I know nothing about, but understand is a very popular performance option today.

I stumbled across this:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/m...MSD_install.htm

So I immediately went and re-gapped my platinum plugs for .050", and there was a big difference in engine smoothness and power.

Once I did that I re-adjusted the idle mixture screws and got a smoother idle.

Now I have new plug wires to install too.....if I can find where I put them.......

I am continuing to study and learn about MSD........was at the largest and best car show in Central VA today, and amazed at all the older cars that had MSD and how the owners swear by the performance gains.

Bad news is adjusting the Idle Mixture screw on Cyl.4 does nothing....makes no sense as I've verified that all the idle mixture passages are free and open, as is the idle jet. Can't figure that one out.

I'd say engine is now 80 - 90% of where it should be. Very happy about that.

The engine is now running better than ever, strongly and smoothly firing on all 4 cylinders under load, from about 2 grand and up. Pulls smoothly like a freight train above about 3,500 rpm. No missing, popping, back-firing at all.

More than anything I'm super-surprised - and super-happy - about the power this little Type 4 puts out......and could live with it long term.

GN

Well, well, well. No wonder!

HOW did this linkage shift at all?!?!?

Put the 914 on the lift, pulled the front boot at the firewall, and.......THERE ARE NO BUSHINGS AT ALL IN THE COUPLER!!!! Not only that, the firewall bushing is not in the firewall, but loose on the shift rod behind the firewall!

So apparently the bushings in the coupler were worn out, destroyed - and who knows what happened to them - no, no pieces laying in the boot. Maybe some bacteria ate them while in my friend's barn over the 12 years it was there.......

And apparently the firewall bushing was pushed out after being installed - as it cannot move once the rod is inside it - and how did any mechanic miss that when re-connecting the coupler???????

Well, the good news is this: the new bushings (on the way) should have this tranny shifting like new!

I can't wait!

GN

Mark -

All is apart and ready for new bushings. Please advise me on pressing out center pin of the coupler: I'm planning on using a 1/2" rigid conduit threaded coupling or even small piece of rigid conduit to place under the center pin, just longer than the pin itself.

Then to use the press to push the pin out. A piece of 1/2" roll stock to push pin out once pressed end is flush with coupler shaft. No pressure at all hits alloy U-joint piece.

And reverse the process to press the pin back in.

Sound good to you?

TIA,

GN

Mark -

All back together, all tight, went very well, thanks to your pre-counsel.

VERY disappointed that the rear shaft bushing (#3 on your list) is not tight in the shaft port on the shift box, but has over 1/16" slop in it. Thought about removing it and wrapping it with enough electrical tape just to make it tight, but already had everything greased up and removing the good bushing risked damaging it, so I let it go. The bushing was tight around the shaft, but not in the hole.

Seems this particular bushing also might be one of the most critical ones for precise shifting. May go back to it someday in the future.

Any idea on why this bushing is so loose in its mounting hole?

As I noted on another thread, disappointed as well that I could not take the car out for a test drive tonight. Had soft brakes and was bleeding all calipers and discover a major leak in the front right outer caliper piston. Problem is the PO put in brake calipers from a BMW 320i - but I have no idea what year.

GN

Glad to hear you were able to correct most of your shifting issues. I went with a CFR/Tangerine spherical firewall bushing, and bronze coupler and console bushings so I wouldn't ever need to replace them again ... but alas, I sold that car last year. I will be installing bronze bushings on my '71 when I get to that part of the build.

It's hard to say why your console bushing is sloppy without looking at it. It's possible that the bushing wore out and the hole was enlarged by the rod rubbing on it over time

You'll need to remove the rear ball-cup housing and the rod again, remove the console bushing and measure the diameter of the hole. Then someone with a known good console handy can also measure the diameter to determine if yours is out of spec and needs replacement. I'd be happy to do it, but my side-shift transaxles are 500 miles away at the moment.

If the enlarged hole is still perfectly round, you might be able to get away with machining a sleeve to take up the difference.

I ordered rear bushings from several different sources, and they were all loose in the hole. My temporary fix was to massage JB Weld into the gaps and around the bushing.

The hole in the bracket looked clean and circular, so I have trouble seeing it getting bashed by the shift shaft, but it was clearly too large for the bushings.

Gary

Thanks Mark!

Gary - very interesting. Have an idea for shimming it in the future - can do it while all parts are in place. Could only improve the tightness of the shifting, even if only to a minor degree.

Didn't mention it before, but also noticed the front rod was pretty loose in the new firewall bushing - guess that's normal too. It was a different material than all the other bushings, not white, but an orange and much softer material. Seems to me the material was too soft for the location and too loose as well....but what do I know? I'm an electrical engineer.....who should have been a mechanical engineer!

GN

Ok, discovered leaking piston O ring on front right caliper - which is from a BMW 320i (assuming PO would not lie to me about this).

Delighted to find out from Pelican that there are only 2 - 320i calipers - 2 piston ('79 - '83) & 4 piston (later) - mine are 2-piston, so I ordered a rebuild kit for both calipers.

Too bad PMB doesn't rebuild them - asked Eric but never heard back from him......

Anyone know if the original front 914 calipers were noted for being a weak design?

GN

As far as I know, Eric still 'restores' BMW calipers.

I thought so - emailed him and asked - guess he's just too busy to reply.....know they are swamped.....

GN

Ok, was able to take the 914 out for a good test of the shift linkage........wow! Not worried about the tiny slop in the rear console bushing. If anything, the linkage is TOO TIGHT.

All gear changes work great - except for one: the shift from 1st to 2nd, half the time, jumps from 1st to 4th. This never never never happened before the new bushings. 1st to 2nd was always quite certain and sure....it was 3rd to 4th that was the problem.

Well the 3rd to 4th is no longer a problem. But half the time, 1st to 2nd jumps to 4th. I have to be very careful and deliberate to hit the 2nd gate.

Apparently because of the new bushings, the spring (requiring forced R and 1st) now is 4x as strong - and in the shift from 1st forces the shifter to go over to the gate for 4th. I cannot let the spring "do its thing" because it seems to force the linkage too far.

Looking for input from those here who know this linkage and tranny better than I do - as it's all new to me. I know this car's linkage and tranny are not known for their positive attributes. But I don't see any adjustments that I can make to change this problem......

TIA,

GN

Hmmm.....rebuilt calipers for 1980 BMW 320i at Summitt Racing for $41.......

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ado-18fr.../bmw/model/320i

Can't pass that up - looks like the ones on my 914....

GN

Dialing in the shift rod is sometimes a time-consuming process. It's even worse on a tail-shifter arrangement.

The point of adjustment for a side-shifter is located under the shift lever in the cockpit. If you have a center console, you may want to to remove it, or at least the horizontal cover panel and any carpet covering the shift lever's base.

When you look at the rear of the lever assembly, you'll see a open slot, and below that, you'll see a clevis (19) at the very bottom of the lever where the front shift rod (30) inserts into it. It is a split clevis with a bolt (1) that cinches around the rod. Place the shift lever into the neutral position.

Take a silver Sharpie and mark both the linear and lateral positions on the clevis and the rod where it sits in the clevis. Next, reach down into the slot with the appropriate size socket (IIRC, a 13mm) and loosening the cinch bolt (1).

Click to view attachment


Now you'll be able to adjust the forward/rearward motion and the rotational movement of the clevis as needed. You'll need to keep the shift rod from rotating while moving the shift lever around, especially if the clevis is still holding the rod tight. A suggestion is to have a friend under the car to make sure the rod doesn't rotate (or move forward or rearward) while you're adjusting the shift lever's position.

If that's not an option, you can secure the rear of the rod with a pair of Vice Grips inside the rear access plate (located between the seats near the firewall). You will need to remove the center armrest box if so equipped) to find the plate.


Do not adjust the linear movement if you're not having difficulty going forward and rearward into the gears.

Make slight rotational adjustments either to the left or right and tighten the cinch bolt on the clevis, taking note of the alignment marks mentioned above. Test it out and see if it's now shifting better (or worse). If worse, loosen the cinch bolt again and readjust the shift lever in the other rotational direction and test again.

You'll probably have to play around with the adjustments for a while until you get it spot-on ... it's sort of a right of passage ...

Mark -

Cannot thank you enough for the detailed description of how to "tune" the linkage.

Understand most of it, but not all. Looks like one of those "you have to do it to understand it" things.

Some responses in blue:

Richard,

My apologies--I thought I emailed a couple of links to 2 different sets of instructions on how adjust the shift linkage (one from Dr Evil and one from Chris up at Tangerine). I'm apparently having some email issues again....

Here are the links:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=188120

and

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...shifter++bungee

The second was posted by Clay Perrine--I couldn't find my link to Chris' procedure, but think it's similar.

Hope these help!

Steve A-

Steve -

Thank you so much! Will read ASAP. I've been wondering if there is a way to adjust the tension on the spring - don't see one presently, but have not looked closely.

Looking forward to these articles!

Richard

Both Mike's and Clay's threads spell out good methods. I hadn't seen either one, nor Chris' method before. I know Chris sells a nice 'precise adjustment component/ on his site.

Looks like you have some other good options to try out. I've heard of some folks finding worn out springs in the shift lever assembly's base, but I haven't experienced that fault myself. I'm not even sure how to tell if they're worn

We're installing a THOMAS side-shift trans in our '71 and will be installing a Rennshift shift lever assembly that I got from Steve ( @Steve ) a couple of years ago. Adjusting with the new shift lever will be new territory for me.

Thanks Steve -

More driving makes me think the problem has been with the ShiftER, not the shift linkage. Getting the feel so I'm hitting 2nd now 90% of the time....this helped from another shift linkage thread - a post by Dave Darling, "But there are many reasons that we tell people to momentarily pause in between gears when shifting a 914; allowing the lever to fall into the correct plane is only one of them."

The shift linkage is all VERY tight...like in a new vehicle.......

GN

Next 914 challenge: alternator not charging.....should not be a problem diagnosing as I'm an electrical guy, and have some good threads on diagnosing whether it's the alternator, regulator, chassis ground, whatever.

My main question is: How do I access the alternator and check the belt tension? Seems pretty inaccessible to me......

GN

Diagnose the trouble: https://www.pelicanparts.com/914/914qa/914Q..._alternator.htm


Don't forget to check the fuses on the engine compartment's relay board. I had an intermittent power outage that was caused by the 25A fuse that had two broken strips of the fuse near one end. The fuse looked good until I attempted to pull it out and the fusible material fell into two pieces. Apparently the two pieces were touching and intermittently, vibrating apart every now & then

Click to view attachment



This thread discusses replacing the belt, so it works for checking the belt's tension too. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=38596



Hopefully you find the problem lies with an external component, so you won't have to perform this major surgical procedure: http://www.914world.com/specs/alternator_replacement.php

Mark -

Wow. Everything I needed - and more. Thank you.

See two places for fuses on the relay board - one has a blue fuse in it; the other is empty. What is the 2nd empty fuse holder for? Can't find anything that describes layout of relay board.

Thanks a million - for the hundredth time????

GN

The other fuse holder isn't used for anything. I keep a spare 25A fuse in it so I don't have to go searching if the main 25A power fuse ever goes out again

"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."

Proceeding to do the same.......

Drove about 25 miles on back roads/twisties - gotta replace those flat-spotted tires that sat in a barn unmoved for 12 years - ordered new tires tonight.....

Tightened alternator belt, just a bit loose, not too tight. Gen light out now, but just getting 12.2 v, so doing the D+ to DF jump tomorrow with VR out to see what that does.

Pulled front right caliper that was intermittently leaking - bad news - cannot be rebuilt (got kits from Pelican) - a noticeable crack in the outer piston well. Now, where to find decent 1980 BMW 320i front right caliper???? Eric at PMB says to avoid the cheap $40 Cardone/ACDelco ones as the Chinese seals are no good......

Oh - washed the 914 too.....

Have now put 200 miles on the car since I got it running.

I'd call around to a couple of local bone yards to see if they have any 1978-1983 BMW E21/320i cars on the lot. Those years all used the same part# calipers ... then rebuild it.

Mark -

Wow. How do I ever thank you?

Looking at parts at Summit Racing and Rock Auto it seems that 2 different calipers come up.....but the both are 2-piston with same size pistons. Can't see how it would make a difference. The re-manufacturers like Cardone are all out of cores to rebuild.

Never seen a cracked piston well before - right at the outer lip. Thinking it had to be a factory defect in the casting. Brake would work fine - except when you most needed it - a hard stop. Jam the pedal hard and the fluid would flow under the inner seal and out the crack - and the pedal would go to the floor! But it would pump back up quickly if you didn't hit it so hard. Needless to say, I only drove it in the country with no cars around at low speeds......

GN

This is the caliper I have:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk...519&jsn=898

Cardone 19225,

Summit Racing: ADO-18FR131

GN

With 4 working brakes and all new tires, took my "Arrest Me" red baby for a long drive last night and got her good and hot. 70 mph on interstate.

Bad news 1: Significant loss of power when hot - not good. Assuming loss of compression. Assuming she needs an engine rebuild - strange at only 60k miles. But I was prepared for one when I got the car. Tho hoping not necessary.

Bad news 2: Engine oil temp got really high - less than 1/4" from red line, and wasn't driving that hard. Anyone tell me where the gauge normally sets when ambient is 87 deg.?

Good news: Love the way the car rides on new rubber. But that's true of any car. Handling a bit better - old tires had 95% of their tread, just old, hard, and flat-spotted after sitting for 12 years. Wonderful on interstate.

Like-New front bumper & rubber & fog lights coming from DrPhil will make her really sharp for the 9/14 PCA event.

GN

TO MODERATOR:

Since it's been almost 2 years since I joined this great forum, can you change the title of my thread to "Virginia Teener" or something like that?

THANKS!

GN

Mark -

Thanks for the offer - forgot to post here that Eric at PMB had one and sent it to me....think I posted it on the "What did you do...." thread.

All is well and I have 4 excellent working brakes!

GN