You should be able to flip the intake of you want. A lot of people do this. Not sure what years.

Would need a custom adjustable alternator mount to make room for the throttle body.

And that is an issue

Because I don't have access to a machinist or CNC equipment

You don't need it Before CNC people made some pretty intricate stuff. CNC allows you to take a drawing and build it to an exacting standard. For one off stuff, your faster just building the damn thing. It is when you need to make 2 or 2 million that CNC becomes your friend.

Some steel, some washers, a bit of welding and you can build a prototype, and bit more welding you can make it solid, and bit of grinding you can make it pretty.

Or lay it out, go to one of the 3D print bars, print out your rapid design prototypes and test fit it and get the design right. Print the final in PLA, and use it to build a sand cast, melt down some ingots and pore the thing, and from their finish it up, with a step drill. Once you have that done, find someone to print the thing in metal. SLA will do the same thing, works like a champ, and very little final cleanup needed.

There are people who will do the run if you can make the design. Some times it just costs you a

If you want to DIY it, I respect that, look for a place that is setup to rent the tools. We have a place in Cincinnati called the Manufactury, wood working, Machine Tools, and some heavy 3D stuff, I know they have a similar space in the Bay Area as I have seen them, while working in silicon valley. I fly in and break shit, rebuild, make it better and get the F out. I can't take the Bay Area Pirus gangs Should be something in your area, like the UrbanWorkshop

Lots of ways to do this, you just seem to be hitting the brick wall over something that is trivial in the other scheme of this build. And don't feel bad we all run into that wall, just trying to pull you up.

I have a guy..
He makes an alternator bracket that moves it to where the AC used to be. I will be ordering on in a couple of weeks. I will dig up his contact info.

I would need it where the power steering pump used to be as I plan on installing A/C if I keep the car long term. It gets way too hot in the summer here in SoCal in a thin roof car stuck in traffic.

Gotcha. Well, 2x75 works for me!

You won't regret the AC install. I've got the AC tools and can show you how to install a Vintage Air unit without any modifications or drilling of the lower dash pad.

76-914, Do you have a thread on the Vintage Air install? Which evaporator did you go with?

@Costa05 here is the build thread. It should be towards the end. If it's not covered, pm me. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=201776 Excuse the Highjacking.

Thanks 76-914. Agreed...My apologies to the OP for the hjack. AC in AZ is a must!

No apology needed, I'll be installing A/C once she's up and running.

It's been a crazy month for me so not a lot of time to work on it but I finally got the motor back in with it moved 2" forward and it looks like this is going to be the magic spot. I have space for the release fork and slave cylinder, room between the firewall and throttle body, and the axle angle is completely within the range of the CVs I have.

You can see my CV angle finder (pat pending ) that runs from center to center of the cups.


Plenty of room up front


Plenty of room in the rear


Now I need to fab up a trans mount and I think it'll be time to get the assembly off to the fabricators to make a jig for production.

Oh look another kit by someone that doesn't have a driving car....

I'm just saying you should prove it all works as complete swap before trying to get money from the group. I need 2 hands to count the people that thought they had great engineering skills that actually sucked and flopped.

Slow your roll there Jr.

As you can see this is a Coldwater 914 cradle that I am "adjusting" to fit the Subaru new gen H6 engines. It's not rocket science to move an engine 2" and check CV angles.

As long as the CV angles check ok through the full suspension cycle there's nothing else really to test.

Chris914n6,
Dylan knows what he is doing. I have worked with him and I am impressed with his knowledge and experience. If you need two hands to count maybe you should work on your math skills.
Bruce

Looks great to me! I’m first in line for a production cradle! Thanks for your work on this for the benefit of the group.

Won't be long now. LMK when you get that thing on the road and I'll give you one of these.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Well the engine is back out and the cradle is at the fabricators.

One of the main "adjustments" I'm making to the cradle is the engine mounting pads. They will be slotted to allow you to move the engine forward or rearward depending on your needs.

I should hopefully have a prototype in about a week to test fit

I also received my Canton cooling tanks so I can start the cooling system design finally.

I also swapped slave cylinders to the newer accumulator style without the accumulator to allow the line to be connected at the rear of it rather than the top for more clearance.

And I also found my spare Bosch style starter which fit perfectly also.

I test fit one axle shaft with the high angle 930 joints and it had a lot of angle to spare so one more thing checked off the list!

I'll try and get some pics up soon, haven't had much time to take them.

someone mentioned this starter?
11-14 SUBARU IMPREZA WRX OEM EJ255 STARTER FXT 23300AA560
this one is on ebay and i've had it in my watch list for months.

Which engine are u using Chi-town,..EZ36,.. ??

Yes it's an EZ36.

Jim, I used the Bosch style but that will work too.

I would love to see this motor set up with ITB's!

I'm working with a company in the UK to hopefully hammer that out.
I have the design to use the Triumph Speed Triple units but I wanted something a bit bigger after doing some math.

I saw you where looking at a shifter setup in the classifieds, I can tell you can build it for less.

MR2 shifter
push pull cables in the proper length
And one of these from Zero Decibel Motorsports

You'll be good to go

Man the prices of these shifters has shot up, still cheaper to build the setup, but dang, I should have invested in MR2 shifters, I would be sitting at 200% increase over a two year period. might have been longer than that now that I think about it.

one of the guys here, Ross maybe?, got me one from a pick and pull for $25.

Chi-town,...where did you get the axle measuring tool,..Thanks Frank

Frank most people end up making them. You cut the two axles you need to work with so they will not hit. Get a few of them stainless steel hose clamps with the screw ends. Put them around the axles two per axle piece should be fine. You take a piece of angle to bridge the gap, and slide the ends in place, with the suspension at its shortest location between the two CV cups, flanges, hubs, etc.... Make sure the circlips or what ever retaining device has not hit rock bottom so you want just a hair of play. Lock the clamps in place with the angle.

Then you should cycle the suspension up and down, maximum travel. This will be based on the travel that your shocks and springs will allow. So you need to know that. If they don't fall out or bind, you got a length that works for your build. Take you measurement. Repeat on the other side, they can be off

Yeah I was being lazy and wanted to buy a complete unit.

Frank it's a piece of aluminum tubing with a piece of hose I can slide on it, about $5 from home Depot.

You measure from the center to center of each cup (the deepest part), subtract 1/4 inch for plunging CV's, for non plunging it gets little more complicated.

Measure both sides as they are almost never the same.

Just an FYI to any other Suby swap guys, I just found 4 MR-2 shifters for around $30 each if anybody needs one to run cable shift.

Great progress. I ran a 4.11 Suby 5-speed Phase 1 transaxle out of a ‘98 Forester initially but ended going to a Phase 2 trans with 3.90 gears. I wish I could find a higher geared one; I’m cruising at about 3200 rpms at 70 mph. It might seem like you’re spinning that sixer a bit too high with 4.44 gears. Good luck with your project!

Subscribing - go Dylan go.

Strawman-. The gearing is for canyon runs, no top end needed. The EZ36 will spin 7k rpm all day with no issues.

Tdskip- slowly but surely

Been a while since I updated this so here goes..

Car is back on 4 wheels and rolling (without wheel dollies) for the first time in 14 years!

Front suspension is back together with Bilstien B6, Powerflex bushings in powder coated arms with Lemforder turbo tie rods and ball joints.

I found out the PO had installed Sway-Away 22mm hollow torsion bars to deal with the weight of all the batteries, nice bonus!

Still need to drill the hole for the front sway bar and get all the hardware plated to install it.

Painted the 74' Boge housings to match the Bilstein dust covers.


Also finally installed my Nardi steering wheel with solid hub.


I've got a long list of things I need to button up with the chassis then I'll get back to the swap list.

How does the oil pan depth of the EZ30 compare with the Type4 engine?

I've got a Porsche 912 and looking at swapping in either a EJ series or an EZ series. With the EJ, I can easily buy or make a lower profile oil pan. But with the EZ, looks like the pan is part of the block.

The upper section of the pan is structural to the block, the lower section is a shallow steel pan.

Compared to a stock EJ pan I would say they are about the same depth, maybe just a pinch shallower for the EZ

This is a great build! The Subaru 3.6 is an awesome engine. Any new information on the production cradles?

I'm working with a very slow fabricator at the moment, hoping to have one test fit sometime next month.

In the mean time I've just been collecting all the misc parts it needed from all the parts cars I've gone through. I think I finally have everything I need.

I did aquire a few goodies:
H&R front sway bar
Factory Rear sway bar
Blaupunkt CR-4090 radio
Some really clean tail lights
Stainless steel brake lines
Really nice seats
A bunch of nos weather stripping

Only work I've done is rebuilding the fog lights and swapping out old hardware for freshly plated ones

Go go go man! Let’s get this thing running for the sunner

I had the pleasure of picking up a roller from Chi-town and he's top notch! When it comes to subarus and 914s he knows his stuff. I'm selfishly waiting for this build to continue on so I can copy every thing he does. Keep up the good work!

Happy to see one rescued from EV land!

Any updates?

I'm finally getting back to it after disassembling 13 parts cars and rebuilding one whole car.

I'll post some pics and misc later this week

Pics will be up tomorrow but here's a short list of things that got done

Installed front sway bar and stainless brake lines with Endless CCRg pads

Removed the clutch tube, accelerator cable tube, heater control tubes and center brace out of the tunnel to open it up for coolant lines.

Mocked up the MR-2 shifter with a plate to bolt in the stock shifter location, need to work on extension.

Installed a Blaupunkt CR4090 for that vintage look, had to repair the firewall bracket.

Swapped out a bunch of hardware and latches for freshly plated ones

Swapping out the torsion style LSD for a Plated unit as soon as I get the friction plates WPC treated.

It's nice to get back to work on it

Good to see the lil gal gettin some attention

woohoo! Any news on that 3.6 cradle?

Any progress updates?

Yes 3.6 motor updates please