Here's the 911 board with the reflector installed. The fit is very good and should be an easy update for anyone. One annoyance with the converter module is it has no undervoltage lockout. It starts turning on at about 3-4V and can run very hot at this voltage.

The 911 foglight burns about 9W.

any updates on the beta testing of these? hoping to get a set when you are ready to do so.
@spoke @mepstein

Dr. Phil

I did get a 2nd set of fogs assembled for mepstein but haven't refurbished his or my foglight cases. Don't want to put the foglights in beat up cases. It will be a few weeks before I get our foglights ready to test out.

I'm further ahead with the 911 foglights as they use a dc-dc converter module with very few discrete components and are very easy to assemble. Any further 914 fogs will use this module.

Here's a link at Pelican:

911 Foglights

This is the 2nd set of 911 fogs built and sent to a 911 guy for him to install and evaluate.

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thanks for the update . If I had known your issues were mainly dealing with
the condition of the fog lights I could have sent you mine, they are mint condition no rust or corrosion. in fact if you make that next set with this 911converter you are now planning on using I will pull these off the car and send them to you if you want to put them in and do some testing or have me test them. I have some other running lights I can put in or just go with out them for a while , I rarely drive the car in this 100 degree heat. I would like to have it complete before Okteenerfest though.
either way let me know.

Phil

Jerry, I wish I sent you better condition fogs. I just know it was taking me so long to send anything that I wanted you to have something to work with. I found the nicer sets when I stopped looking for them. I can refurbish the housings at work, powdercoat, ect so don't feel like you have to do more work on these. I promise not to post pictures until they look pretty.

I’d love to do these but my fogs are actually aftermarket. Pilots I think...

@Spoke any chance of doing amber?

Interesting thought. I'm not sure amber would work with the board designed for white LEDs. The reason is the voltage drop of the amber LED is 2V and the voltage drop of the white is 3V.

With 8 LEDs in series, the amber LEDs would drop 16V whereas the white will drop 24V. The issue is the boost converter I've targeted requires at least 3V difference between input (up to 14V) and output (16V for 8 amber; 24V for 8 white).

If 2 more amber LEDs were added, then the voltage drop would be 20V and compatible with the converter. I could either make a separate 10-LED board for ambers or make one board which would accept 8 or 10 LEDs.

Finally got around to installing the LED foglights on my 914. The following posts detail the installation of these LEDs into an early 914 foglight.

The later foglight lenses have less room inside the lens and require a thick spacer (3-5mm) so the LEDs fit under the glass lens. On the early foglights, this spacing isn't an issue.

Start by removing the bumper. 2 bolts on each side. I loosened the bolts all round then removed them on one side and rested the bumper on a bucket while the bolts were removed on the other side.

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Open up the foglight fixture by removing the small screw on the bottom of the fixture which holds the bezel in place.

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Disconnect the bulb holder from the bezel/lens/reflector assembly. Take the assembly to the workbench. Do both sides.

On the car, the bulb holder is removed from the 12V wire by loosening the flat-head screw holding the 12V wire to the bulb fixture. The bulb and its holder will not be used.

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The bezel/lens/reflector assembly is separated by removing the 4 metal clips behind the bezel. Always wear eye protection when removing/replacing these clips because they have a tendency to fly across the room.

Also remove/replace in a smallish, clean or clutter-free room. Reason for this is when these clips fly, they can go all over the place and are hard to find. Chances are at least one of these spring clips will fly during removal/replacement.

Remove the clips with a flathead screwdriver depressing the longer of the 2 arms of the clip. Notice that the clips are different on the left assembly than the right assembly. Take a picture of the assembly before removing the clips so the orientation of the clips is remembered.

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Once disassembled, clean the glass lens and refurbish the bezel as you desire. I only washed the bezels on my car. Replace the rubber gasket around the lens with a new one. These are available at 914rubber. Notice the tape on the top part of the LED lenses. This is to attempt to cut off the light bleed upward. It does cut off some light on the upper side but isn't 100%.

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This is the spacer ring to align the LED board to the glass bezel. It will be attached to the board when the board is assembled.

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Here's the board with the alignment ring attached.

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When mating the LED board with the lens, make sure the gasket remains in place.

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Here is the board mated to the lens. The alignment tab tat the top of the lens fits into the alignment gap at the top of the board alignment ring.

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Now comes the tricky part: getting the spring clips back on to hold the bezel/lens/board assembly together. The lens is self-aligned with the bezel via a ridge on the outside bottom of the lens. There is a recess in the bezel where this ridge will fit.

To assist this step, 4 special clips are provided to hold the board in place. These clip right on and hold the board in place so the spring clips can be installed.

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Reinstall the spring clips, one on each side of the heat sink. An installation tool will be provide to help install the spring clips. Again use eye protection and do the work in a smallish, clutter-free room in case one of the clips takes off.

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Reinstall the spring clips to both lights and we're almost ready for installation. Need to add quick connect spades to the 12V wires and clean the ground spade.

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The driver side 12V wire is kind of a pain since it is 2 wires soldered together with some shrink wrap on it. The 2 wires were also flattened by the attachment of the wires to the bulb holder. I had to use a spade made for 10-12 gauge wire.

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This spade isn't optimal as it should be shielded but it was all my FLAPS had in the 10-12 gauge range. The ground spade needs to be removed from the fixture and cleaned.

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The passenger side was easier since it had only one wire with soldered end. I was able to use a shielded male spade on this one. The spades will be included with the LED boards for easy installation.

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Time to connect the LEDs and test them. The board is set on a bucket or other item so wires can be attached without stressing any connections. Do not let the board hang by its wires. Also avoid touching any of the electronics on the board.

Before making the connect to the ground spade, a short section of heat shrink tubing is added to insulate the ground spade. Once the ground connection is made, slide the tubing into place and heat it.

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Test the board before continuing. If any connections are not made, now is the time to adjust things.

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Install the bezel assembly making sure the wires are all inside the unit. Make sure the bezel is on straight. Replace the locking clip on the bottom and replace the small screw to hold the locking clip in place. Test the light again.

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Repeat the installation on the other side. Support the assembly, slide the heat shrink on the ground wire, attach wires and heat the ground tubing. Test the light.

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The wire should tuck nicely inside the fixture. Make sure the wire stays inside the fixture during installation.

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Install the bezel making sure the bezel assembly is straight. Screw in the locking clip and retest.

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Replace the bumper and the installation is finished.

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...and after all that.....964 Fog Lamps. You can't do anything but stock bulbs in them.

I'm getting ready to order some boards with updated dc/dc converter modules and was wondering if I should get the boards in white or black. One guy trying out my 911 fog lights thought they would look better with a black board.

Anyone have a preference?

Here's a crude attempt to photoshop a black PCB on the driver side.

Great work, great thread.
Did I miss an updated picture of the light pattern with the final taping?

Paul

This set is for @mepstein . This set and mine will be the only ones with the discrete dc/dc converter running 500ma. All further foglights will use a dc/dc converter module running about 425ma.

Mark, do you want me to paint one of the bezel rings or are you going to send another set already painted/powder coated? I'll only need the bezel ring as the back side of the enclosure is not necessary to install the led boards.

I haven't done a before and after with the tape. The tape does help with the upper light but does not completely cut it off. With such a small lens close to the LED it's hard to completely cut off the top of the light pattern. I'll get a before/after with Mark's set of lights.

I did a lot of experimenting with the light pattern from the LEDs and the results were less than I hoped. Actually none worked. Trying to shade the LEDs from the upward light output only managed to reduce the LED output.

I have a set of LED fogs on my 914 and my 911. They are 2x brighter than the standard bulbs and 1/3 the power. They don't seem to blind anyone as they're not that bright.

At this point I think I'd like to get a few of these in some other cars to get some other opinions. What I'd like to do is sell up to 5 sets at a reduced price ($100/pair). The regular price will be $165/pair.

I've only worked out the clips and fixturing for early fogs so only looking for those with early fogs. The boards will be black.

Let me know if you're interested. I've started building the boards and will have them finished in a couple of weeks. I'm hoping to get @mepstein s fogs to him next week.

Very cool stuff. Driving my rural roads during dear season, the more light the better.

At Okteenerfest we had a demo from a tech from VintagecarLED.com install a set of their headlights in the stock 7"housing. It was a slick switch, with less amp draw than my H4's installed years ago. I installed them 2 days ago and they light up the night with a well controlled beam set HI and LO. The model number is VC3500Standard and we were offered a 15% discount total $160.65 for attendees, and I believe the regular price is $179. I watched a YouTube test of 12 different brands of LED headlights, and this was the winner for me.

I'm not in the market for these right now but I love this stuff and the work behind it. My $.02 - on this car shown, white boards. The lights just sort of disappear that way.

That said, I have black bumpers and black grills so if I would get them I'd probably go black boards......

Any progress on a rectangular version for 75-76 and 911s?

Do you know if the 75-76 version fixtures open up? I had a 911 version where the glass lens was bonded to the metal reflector. I couldn't get them apart and had to give up.

Printed a spacer for the later foglights and they fit nicely using the original clips.

Have all the components soldered on the first of 3 black board sets. I'm offering the first 3 sets for $100/pair but no takers yet. Normal price will be $165/pair. There's lots of expensive components on these boards.

There are 5 911 owners with the 911 version of these foglights now. Once I get past this initial startup, I plan to make these generally available.

This set has been cleaned. Now will glue on the LED lens holders and screw on the heatsinks.

Printed a jig for drilling the holes for the heatsinks. This set is done and ready for assembly.

According to the maint. manual they do not, like the 911 version. I will have to look for a replacement LED bulb to the 35w bulb to be replaced in the lens housing. Any recommendations?

Hi Jerry, @Spoke
I will try a set...I have all your other LED offerings and love them
I will PM you for the details
Thanks!
Danny

Hey I missed your posting back in sept. About having components for the round fog lights, I have been waiting for this since the beginning so if you still have available one of those first sets at $100 I will PayPal you now!

Phil

@Spoke

I’ll buy one of the intro sets if still available. Thanks

@mepstein

Is this in addition to the white set? I painted the early rings and should be ready to ship all the parts back to you. The boards will be mounted in the early rings. I didn't do anything with bodies. Please PM your contact info.

Yes.

Spokeworks brings good things to light!

Very cool thread, love to see fabrication like his.

Spoke,
I would like to to try a set. If they are still available

Spoke - First off, well done on tackling this design! Not noticed this thread until today.

Great that you went for a "single box" solution; the fog lights are typically subject to some airflow and not near any heat sources - which is good. Kind of wondering if there's any way to extend the LED heatsinking out to the rear metal enclosure? Again, this is usually not exposed to a casual finger burn and the mount lug to chassis would be a great "thermal sink".

Obviously some serious three dimensional issues to solve there, getting the right stack up and profile to contact well to the outer shell. And the added expense over an "off the shelf" heat sink. But 10ish watts dissipated inside a small enclosure with only convection cooling to the casing might mean the electronics be running hot....?

Again, love seeing this kind of project being tackled, with modern electronics being integrated tastefully into existing components!

- Tony

@mepstein
@DRPHIL914
@bahnzai

Guys, I have you down for the three V2 boards I'm assembling right now. I'll get with you about payment and shipping and all. These boards are black in color.

Unfortunately, I fucked up the design of the boards by making them too small. The amazing thing is I had these V2 boards designed about 100mil larger and I out-thought myself and at the last minute made them the same size as the V1 boards.

Mark and I are the only ones with the V1 boards with discrete dc-dc converter. His boards are shown below. In the first picture the black surrounding the board is the plastic part I printed to hold the board in sync with the glass lens and gasket.

The problem comes in when looking at the 2nd picture with the board mounted in the light bezel. The clips barely touch the board. This is not good or sustainable. The board needs to be about 150mil larger.

@mepstein
@DRPHIL914
@bahnzai

One other thing with these V2 boards, you'll have to send the glass lens and bezel to me so I can fit these boards myself. I had so much of bitch of time getting Mark's boards to fit that I cannot have you go through this. This will also help me understand how to ease the mounting of these boards in the lens/bezel.

What I will do is replace the gaskets with new 914rubber gaskets and mount the boards. It will ease your installation greatly. If you want as well I can paint (gloss black) the bezel for you if you want.

Jerry - Does it matter if the lights are early or late?

And I'm in no rush for the second set so if you have someone next in line, feel free to move me down the list. I'll get them but the second set will be on my shelf for a while.

@Tbrown4x4

I am in the process of redesigning the boards (V3) to be 150mil larger. The plan is to offer 5 members a set of foglights again for $100/set. These will be a couple of weeks out as I haven't finished the design yet. The boards will be black color.

Todd I have you down for one of the board sets. You mentioned about using the fogs for 100 mile commutes with 914rubber yellow lens. These should work well with them. Here's a 911 with my foglights with yellow lens.

Not a problem with later years. The lens is flatter than early years thus a larger spacer is needed however the later bezel is flatter thus allowing the spacer to take up space with the original clips to be used.

And no, you are getting a second set. I still haven't gotten a ride in your 914/6... Shit's piling up on your side. Karma's a bitch.

I have 3 late fogs from you although 2 of the glass lenses are pretty beat up. One is fully cracked in half. One is in good shape. If you want to send a better set, that's your decision.

If you want, @Tbrown4x4 is looking for a set, I target the set to him.

I figured you could use those old ones for testing. I don’t need them back. I do have a better set and we’ll work out the details later. Thanks.

Those look great. Should make the drive a little safer. Should I PayPal you the $ now or?