914World.com > V8 Project Update

FL000

Jan 10 2021, 11:01 AM

QUOTE(cali914 @ Jan 9 2021, 11:29 PM)

You are lucky from the head situation and the accident. Get a edelbrock programmable fuel injection kit and you will be so happy.

I am seriously considering the Edlebrock Pro Flo 4. I am fairly sure having an untuned carb and timing off messed my heads up. I need something with an ECU to help make that stuff easy for me.

Went back and forth on LS, Audi twin turbo, and others but staying the course on SBC for now. Money is part of it (debatable on how much more/less to go these routes) but mainly it boiled down to getting it back on the road as soon as possible. Not sure I can handle a 1-2 year project and just want to drive

FL000

Jan 10 2021, 11:18 AM

QUOTE(Andyrew @ Jan 9 2021, 11:33 PM)

Hopefully the damages are just the oil pan??

Wish I had the oil pan on it

The crank pulley and one of the crankshaft counter weights took the brunt of the impact. Engine landed on the stand first which was more forgiving than straight concrete. Other than the tiniest marks on those areas, nothing visibly broken. With a cast crank who knows if it was damaged seriously and what will happen when I fire it up.

Rotating assembly still turns smooth, and going to press on ahead since I don’t want to drop more money into this block. It will still be fine for getting my trans mounted and all the tidbits that go along with that. Then I can figure out the longer term replacement for this engine.

djway

Jan 10 2021, 12:36 PM

If it was welded it doesn’t look like the weld penetrated so essentially it wasn’t welded.
That should be brought to their attention.

FL000

Jan 10 2021, 01:36 PM

QUOTE(djway @ Jan 10 2021, 10:36 AM)

If it was welded it doesn’t look like the weld penetrated so essentially it wasn’t welded.
That should be brought to their attention.

Good call, reported it at saferproducts.gov

A quick google search turned up empty so maybe this was a one off occurrence, but who knows.

FL000

Jan 11 2021, 09:27 PM

Alright back to happier times. Got the 01E mounted to the engine. Will probably come half a dozen more times but feels good seeing them together.

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djway

Jan 12 2021, 01:26 AM

QUOTE(FL 000 @ Jan 11 2021, 07:27 PM)

Alright back to happier times. Got the 01E mounted to the engine. Will probably come half a dozen more times but feels good seeing them together.

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PURDY

cali914

Jan 12 2021, 11:19 AM

nice

tygaboy

Jan 12 2021, 12:40 PM

Great to see things going back together!

FL000

Jan 24 2021, 07:26 PM

Calling all

out there. Modifying my gas tank for an internal fuel pump and got it this far. Looks fairly good to the eye.

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Then shine a light behind it and see this all around the patch

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What’s the next step? Keep chasing each hole down with MIG? Switch to TIG? Is there something I can just coat it with and call it a day (only partially joking). The metal is pretty thin and worried about getting into a cycle of tacking, sanding, and continuing to burn through the ever thinning metal.

Thanks

76-914

Jan 25 2021, 08:38 AM

QUOTE(FL 000 @ Jan 24 2021, 05:26 PM)

Calling all

out there. Modifying my gas tank for an internal fuel pump and got it this far. Looks fairly good to the eye.

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Then shine a light behind it and see this all around the patch

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What’s the next step? Keep chasing each hole down with MIG? Switch to TIG? Is there something I can just coat it with and call it a day (only partially joking). The metal is pretty thin and worried about getting into a cycle of tacking, sanding, and continuing to burn through the ever thinning metal.

Thanks

You can buy a repro from Pelican for ~ $200.

tygaboy

Jan 25 2021, 09:15 AM

When I welded on my tank:
Go with TIG, very sharp, longer than normal taper length on the tungsten, very thin filler rod, perhaps even MIG wire. You're after the smallest HAZ possible.

I didn't use the following technique on the tank in my pic but:

Tape over all the openings leaving room to insert a shop vac hose in one of them. Put a sock or something over the end of the hose and leave enough room around the hose so that when the vac is on, you're creating a SLIGHT vacuum inside the tank. Yes, this is very unscientific, but...

The vacuum causes the weld puddle to pull inward and leaves less weld material sitting higher than the parent layer that requires grinding. YMMV.

Hope this helps.

FL000

Jan 25 2021, 05:50 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jan 25 2021, 06:38 AM)

You can buy a repro from Pelican for ~ $200.

Hey Kent, forgot to mention this is a reproduction tank I got from parts geek for ~$200. I decided to cut a large section out of the top to remove the internal baffle and make room for my new pump/baffle.

I’ll show a few pics of what I did in a bit.

FL000

Jan 25 2021, 05:59 PM

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jan 25 2021, 07:15 AM)

When I welded on my tank:
Go with TIG, very sharp, longer than normal taper length on the tungsten, very thin filler rod, perhaps even MIG wire. You're after the smallest HAZ possible.

I didn't use the following technique on the tank in my pic but:

Tape over all the openings leaving room to insert a shop vac hose in one of them. Put a sock or something over the end of the hose and leave enough room around the hose so that when the vac is on, you're creating a SLIGHT vacuum inside the tank. Yes, this is very unscientific, but...

The vacuum causes the weld puddle to pull inward and leaves less weld material sitting higher than the parent layer that requires grinding. YMMV.

Hope this helps.

Thanks Chris, and I do plan to use the vacuum technique. I used it on my first patch attempt but I messed up the patch so bad (not due to vacuum) that I decided to cut it out and try again. This is my second attempt with a new welder, and although skill is probably more important than machine I am having much better luck

I got some silicon bronze tig rods too and may just try brazing the rest since I am just trying to cover pin holes at this point. New to TIG and will play around with the sharpening as you mentioned also

Rider914

Jan 26 2021, 12:22 PM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 8 2021, 11:13 PM)

WOW! That could have been a life changing event. Sorry for the hassle. It'll work out.

As bad as that went, it couldn't have gone any better...
Unfortunately, I have had to tell myself that many times over the years.

FL000

Mar 6 2021, 01:04 PM

QUOTE(Rider914 @ Jan 26 2021, 10:22 AM)

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Jan 8 2021, 11:13 PM)

WOW! That could have been a life changing event. Sorry for the hassle. It'll work out.

As bad as that went, it couldn't have gone any better...
Unfortunately, I have had to tell myself that many times over the years.

Definitely a good way to approach it! Feel exactly the same way.

FL000

Mar 6 2021, 01:17 PM

Haven’t posted in awhile but have been busy. Unfortunately working like 4 different things at same time so not much finished.

I did declare victory on the tank though. After multiple weld/grind/inspect cycles experimenting with MIG/TIG/brazing I got the top to only have a few remaining pinholes. Was mainly worried about slosh so put a finish coat of JB weld on it and sanded smooth to paint.

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I wanted the bottom pinhole free with metal and muggy weld solder rods were what finally did the trick. Low enough temp that I was able to use heat gun and wicking allowed the solder to flow into the remaining holes. Didn’t attempt pushing my luck and sanding smooth so once I knew the leaks were gone I just painted it.

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Relocated cap to driver side and basically have it setup like @tygaboy did on his; why reinvent the wheel when I can just capitalize on everyone’s trial and error and good ideas

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FL000

Mar 6 2021, 01:28 PM

Also making progress on the clutch master cylinder. Wow it is tight adding a clutch master cylinder next to brake master but @dwillouby took the guess work out with his bracket kit.

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I rounded the corners to remove some excess material and to give the radiator hose something smooth to rest on.

I am going to use 3/8” aluminum tube from the M/C up behind tank and then transition to rubber hose for final connection to reservoir.

Apologies for rotated pics but doing this in car while daughter is getting horseback lessons and not in the mood to fight it!

FL000

Mar 6 2021, 01:36 PM

Here are some from under and above the pedal cluster. Following what @76-914 and others have done with a few deviations here and there.

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The blue inlet fitting points right at the steering shaft so I swapped that out for a 90 degree fitting.

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A little bit of glare from flashlight but you can see I grounded some of the accelerator linkage off to make sure it clears the clutch master bushing. Nothing scarier than letting off the gas and the car doesn’t respond

been there done that.

FL000

Mar 6 2021, 01:51 PM

Nothing new that timing a SBC is a pain in the rear on a 914. Don’t have the best visibility to front of engine and stock timing tab doesn’t fit well either. Yes I know if I was smart and had an LS I wouldn’t have this problem, but maybe someday I will catch on

To give me the ability to check the timing I am using a factory hole in side of trans at about the 10 o’clock position , viewing from rear - or here (forward most of 2 side by side ones)

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May not show well but I put a number of degree marks on the flywheel using a metal awl and a paint pen. Figured the paint will make it easy to see and the scratches will save the day of paint comes off!

Plan to use an old timing light I have, remove light and extend the wire length, and position snake cable style camera and timing light near hole to check when engine is running. Probably easier to see than explain, so will add pics later (if it works)

FL000

Apr 3 2021, 05:34 PM

Making slow but steady progress. Hard to believe it has been over 4 months since it has been on the road. Need to wrap this up soon.

Wanted to fabricate my cable shifter but didn’t trust my skills, or at least in a timely manner. Went with the Cable Shift setup and pretty happy with it so far. The original adapter on the trans had one cable coming in at an angle that interfered with my trunk pan so I made some modifications. Here it is in a test setup to make sure it works while I still have some room to work on it.

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Reminds me of making a go kart as a kid

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Shifter is a bit industrial for my preferences so I will spruce it up in the car.

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Hydraulic clutch seems to work well and can get into all the gears, except reverse. Not too concerned since i was able to before I mounted the trans to engine. Thinking it can be difficult without engine running.

FL000

Apr 3 2021, 05:41 PM

Got my fuel lines routed (mostly) also. Using aluminum line with AN fittings at tank and PFTE for final connection to engine.

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76-914

Apr 3 2021, 07:10 PM

Looking good. Should be ready for some summer runs.

mgp4591

Apr 4 2021, 02:53 PM

QUOTE(FL 000 @ Apr 3 2021, 05:41 PM)

Got my fuel lines routed (mostly) also. Using aluminum line with AN fittings at tank and PFTE for final connection to engine.

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What are you looking to run for your clutch m/c reservoir?

partwerks

Apr 4 2021, 09:57 PM

QUOTE(FL 000 @ Oct 22 2019, 07:29 PM)

I know there are a number of electric water pumps on the market, but the Davies Craig caught my eye and is the one I went with. Pretty slick little unit that uses pulse wave modulation (PWM) to hit the target temp, which should help on the efficiency side. It also has as a control module that allows you to set your target temp, and control the radiator fans. Set it and forget it in theory. Here it is installed

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Yes that is a drop of water below it, yes it drives me nuts, and yes it will be fixed

The pump looks lower then it really is compared to the engine bar, but I am going to secure it with a mount higher to be safe.

I was pretty proud of these adapters I made, even though they don't look all that impressive! The tube was too thick to put a DIY bead in, so I welded a bead around it. Seems to be sealing good so far.

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As I mentioned the waterpump uses PWM, which basically means cycling between off and on. For DC motors that is a better approach then say trying to control the RPM with varying voltage.

Because of this I was concerned my heater core would not see a consistent flow of hot water through it, and consequently may lead to inconsistent heat flowing out of the blower. Probably wouldn't have mattered, but I am a bit anal by nature so I decided to account for it.

I installed the booster pump shown in the previous post, and added an Arduino UNO to control it. I tapped into the potentiometer wire from the heater valve, and the more you turn the heat knob up the more the booster pump flows. This also seems to be working well.

I have the craig davies pump. Only problem I had, the first flanges had Porosity problems. Took a year till I got some replacements that actually didn't seep.

FL000

Apr 5 2021, 09:33 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Apr 4 2021, 01:53 PM)

What are you looking to run for your clutch m/c reservoir?

I am using this one from Wilwood. Going to mount it somewhere in the vicinity of the brake reservoir.

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The rubber hose is crazy thick and don’t want to bore a huge hole under tank so making use of 3/8” aluminum tube and a hole that is already there. Will flare one end for hose to reservoir connection.

FL000

Apr 5 2021, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(partwerks @ Apr 4 2021, 08:57 PM)

I have the craig davies pump. Only problem I had, the first flanges had Porosity problems. Took a year till I got some replacements that actually didn't seep.

I noticed some of the designs have flanges that bolt to the pump body. I was concerned that could be a leak source also, and mine has the inlet/outlet formed into the body best I can recall.

I had the pump controller mounted in the center console, but my shifter cables will be in the way now. Need to find new location.

FL000

Apr 5 2021, 09:45 PM

Clutch master installed and hose ran to engine compartment. Only a couple curse words blurted out too working in the confined space

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76-914

Apr 6 2021, 08:26 AM

QUOTE(FL 000 @ Apr 5 2021, 08:33 PM)

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Apr 4 2021, 01:53 PM)

What are you looking to run for your clutch m/c reservoir?

I am using this one from Wilwood. Going to mount it somewhere in the vicinity of the brake reservoir.

Click to view attachment

The rubber hose is crazy thick and don’t want to bore a huge hole under tank so making use of 3/8” aluminum tube and a hole that is already there. Will flare one end for hose to reservoir connection.

Not to highjack your thread but I'm using the same reservoir and this was the only location I found that worked for me. IIRC, I set it back ~1/2" for tank clearance.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-...1604967786.jpeg

FL000

Apr 6 2021, 09:30 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 6 2021, 07:26 AM)

Not to highjack your thread but I'm using the same reservoir and this was the only location I found that worked for me. IIRC, I set it back ~1/2" for tank clearance.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-...1604967786.jpeg

@76-914 By all means, highjack - you are saving me time in the long run!

That is pretty much where and how I planned to mount mine so thanks for the confirmation.

FL000

May 20 2021, 07:46 PM

Precarious position. I really need to get a lift. Done this about half a dozen times but always hold my breath in the process

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Safely back down. Time for a drink

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FL000

Jul 12 2021, 08:04 PM

Been a couple months since my last post but have been keeping busy. Working on like 5 different things at once so hard to show progress

I made my cradle and got it installed. Tried to find someone local to bend my tubes but shops only had the pusher style. I was worried it would buckle the tube with the radius I was after, so I ended up buying a bender and put my son to work

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Pretty happy with how it turned out, and will keep an eye on it once driving to make sure everything stays together. I used 1/8" plate for the upper trans mount, and drilled hole in it to allow tube (0.120 wall) to pass through so I could weld from the top and bottom. The side mounts are 3/16" plate. A leaf spring tube kit with polyurethane bushings tie it together.

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FL000

Jul 12 2021, 08:13 PM

When I originally got my car on the road welding my own exhaust sounded way outside my reach with the tools and knowledge I had, so I had a shop do it. Still was a bit nervous this time around but went for it. Like most things tackling it one step at a time made it manageable. Old and new:

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76-914

Jul 12 2021, 08:24 PM

Your "beginner job" looks more professional than the other guys work. Great job!

FL000

Aug 12 2021, 06:20 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jul 12 2021, 07:24 PM)

Your "beginner job" looks more professional than the other guys work. Great job!

They turned out pretty well and are holding up good. You can definitely hear me coming so we will see if I stick with the Flowmasters long term.

FL000

Aug 12 2021, 06:29 PM

I need some motivation to make the final push so figured posting progress will help. I leave 8 Sept for Moab and this is what I want to have done more or less in order:

Speedhut gauges installed
Get miles on it
Front radiator ducting - in work
Center console
Rear trunk electronics panel cover
Rear trunk lid fiberglass repair
Alignment

I should receive my combo gauge Monday and can get that done mid-week. That will round out this package:

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FL000

Aug 12 2021, 06:44 PM

I have added a lot of heat protection this go-around, and it has made a big difference in the engine compartment and rear trunk.

Up front I decided to contain the hot air so it goes out the wheel well vents and not into my gas tank and cab. Boom mat has been awesome for this area. Thick, light, and works well with the hot air blowing directly on it. My goal is to have close to zero metal exposed.

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A thin gauge aluminum top will cover it, with mat underneath. I’ll paint it when able, but not a priority.

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You can see the front side portions will need some extra care to seal. Messing around with 2 part foam, foam mat, and styrofoam to see what works but also looks decent.

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FL000

Aug 17 2021, 07:08 PM

Gauges aren’t quite done but done enough to show this. Still need to add the speedhut temp sensor and oil sending unit on engine, hopefully tomorrow. Thanks again to @tygaboy for the gauge panel!

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I will say it is nice having a tach that doesn’t bounce every time the RPM changes

FL000

Aug 19 2021, 06:08 PM

Made my 70 mile round trip to work today! Drove great on the way there, but the way home was a little sketchy

About 2/3 of the way home I started having a hard time finding my gears. After a few minutes realized it was all the forward throw gears R 1 3 5. Got it home without a tow or burning my clutch

After some investigation I think it is a fairly simple fix, with the problem appearing to be that the shift handle doesn’t have enough forward throw to engage the gears. An extra 1/16” is probably all I need.

Also both my fuses for my fans blew the last part of the drive. I have gone overkill on wiring gauge, but have some ideas on things to check. The wire connections are first on my list.

76-914

Aug 19 2021, 06:43 PM

Your gauges look great Josh. Chris @Tygaboy knocked it out of the park with that panel. I like your idea to contain that "Box of Heat" with the thin gauge aluminum. Question; do your fans run in tandem or independently? What kind of amps are your fans pulling on start up vs warmed up?

tygaboy

Aug 19 2021, 06:57 PM

Great to hear things are coming along, sorry about the issues. You'll get that fixed in no time!
And your gauges do look really nice!

FL000

Aug 21 2021, 08:58 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Aug 19 2021, 05:43 PM)

Your gauges look great Josh. Chris @Tygaboy knocked it out of the park with that panel. I like your idea to contain that "Box of Heat" with the thin gauge aluminum. Question; do your fans run in tandem or independently? What kind of amps are your fans pulling on start up vs warmed up?

They are wired independently, but triggered to come on at the same time either from engine temp or A/C trinary switch. Each is controlled with a relay and 20 amp fuse. Same setup I had in my previous setup and never had this happen. I redid a bunch of my wiring while I was in there, but must have goofed something up. The fuses don’t blow immediately, just after some time.

IIRC my fans are rated for 15 amps at startup and 10 while running. Need to check that assumption, and not sure what my actual running amp draw is.

FL000

Aug 22 2021, 02:46 PM

The wife and I drove to Wrightwood for breakfast this morning. Beautiful weather and hardly anyone on the back roads.

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FL000

Jul 30 2022, 06:51 PM

A little over 5000 miles on the 01E, then returning from WCR car coasted to a stop. My driver side output shaft hub was sticking out about an inch and trans fluid was leaking from it.

Finally got the inner half shaft unbolted today and the culprit was the center bolt backed out. Happy that it will be an easy fix but bummed I didn’t think to try and do a roadside repair.

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I’ll replace the seal for good measure, make sure the passenger side is torqued to spec, and maybe through on some blue locktite to boot.

In the future a jiggle test will be in order before a big trip.

dan10101

Jul 30 2022, 07:08 PM

Such a bummer end to a great weekend. I had the outer stub shaft break on me at the dragstrip a couple months back. You're talking about the inner stub shaft right?
I think mine was loose a bit too. All I know is that it's tight now!

Get that sweet machine back on the road!
(and the track!) LOL

tygaboy

Jul 30 2022, 07:36 PM

Glad to hear it wasn't something "breaky"! And great meeting you both at WCR! Looking forward to seeing you again next year.

FL000

Jul 30 2022, 07:40 PM

QUOTE(dan10101 @ Jul 30 2022, 06:08 PM)

Such a bummer end to a great weekend. I had the outer stub shaft break on me at the dragstrip a couple months back. You're talking about the inner stub shaft right?
I think mine was loose a bit too. All I know is that it's tight now!

Get that sweet machine back on the road!
(and the track!) LOL

Ah, thanks Dan. Yes it was the inner stub shaft.

FL000

Jul 30 2022, 07:43 PM

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Jul 30 2022, 06:36 PM)

Glad to hear it wasn't something "breaky"! And great meeting you both at WCR! Looking forward to seeing you again next year.

You too - nice chatting with you and cool to see your beast in person and on the road.

Cairo94507

Jul 31 2022, 07:31 AM

And he has air conditioning.... Seriously, a pleasure to meet you and your wife. Great car and I am sorry you ended up on a flatbed. We have all been there and that is no fun. Very glad it was an easy repair.

FL000

Sep 2 2022, 06:16 PM

Rubber moulding around the windshield was looking worse for wear so I decided to go with the factory trim.

Windshield frame needed a refresh - prepping for paint. I feel like I just did this

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A little warm this time of the year and plan to spray bright and early tomorrow.

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FL000

Sep 5 2022, 11:36 AM

A couple lessons learned but overall happy with how it came out. Next up get some miles on her and get windows tinted before RRC. Going with ceramic to see if it can help cut the cabin heat.

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