The rear DS wall repair was more complicated, needed to do it in a couple of sections. Here’s the first part.

Here you can see where the original ebrake tubes are reinstalled and to get this to happen I kind of had to install the front and rear firewall at the same time on the drivers side.

…I’ll go back and dress the weld and make things look better later..

Ok so I’ve realized that when I retacked the clutch tube in place, that it was not in the right place.. it’s too far inward and not sticking out into the engine compartment enough. There is a bracket midways thru the tunnel that has broken loose and I will need to repair. I can see a brass ring around the clutch tube where it should meet the firewall (see the arrow in the pic). I will repair the inner tunnel bracket later. So ive cut the FW around the clutch tube, cleaned up the tube and will be correcting the tubes placement. Glad to do this cause those welds around the tube were kinda crappy looking.

…tube released

.. and cleaned

And a shot showing the remaining gap that needs filling on the firewall.

Fabricated a panel and tacked it in.. in this pic the clutch tube is loose in its hole so it can be adjusted outward later.

Spitz called himself helping, but honestly didn’t really do much…

Welds knocked down and lightly primed

Now to tackle the loose clutch tube bracket midway down the tunnel.. in this pic a small section of the tunnel has been peeled back and my pen is pointing to where the bracket snapped, and pulled the tube towards the front of the car.Click to view attachment

Now to tackle the loose clutch tube bracket midway down the tunnel.. in this pic a small section of the tunnel has been peeled back and my pen is pointing to where the bracket snapped, and pulled the tube towards the front of the car.Click to view attachment

Bracket realigned and rewelded… I didn’t shoot a pic but I rewelded the tube to the inside of the rear firewall, the correct length exposed now. All is VERY solid! Well, I will need to address the typical clutch tube repair at the front of the tunnel, but that’s for later..

Closed up, worked down and lightly primed

Nice.

One step at a time.

This is amazing work. I so need to come see it in person.

Clay

Thanks guys! Clay I look forward to having you out at some point.. want to show you my Volvo 1800E too, it’s shoe-horned in between the house and the fence at the moment tho.

I got around to thoroughly coating the interior of the tunnel, the area between the rear firewalls, and longs (as much as possible) - with Eastwood’s Internal Frame paint.

I attached the flexible nozzle to a long flexy thin rod which was helpful in getting the paint where it needed to be. The nozzle sprays the paint in a radial fan pattern.

Done

I’ve got this stuff running out of the longs but could only do so much with the heater tubes installed. Still though I think I got it in the most significant areas, around where the firewalls intersect. Here’s the tunnel, topside.

Wanted to polish off a bottle .. no, not that kinda bottle - welding gas! So I did some preventative work to the hinge brackets, both sides (engine lid to body).

Does anyone know if there is a reference measurement for the rear deck lid hinge mount… mine as all over the place on the passenger’s side. Looks like it’s been moved a couple of times and I want to weld it in, get rid of those screws .. take a look and advise please:

I am NOT a body man, I pay to have this done. But I was told by Richard Fisher that he puts the hinges on the lid and puts the lid in place, with the seal, then he tacks the hinge in place. That way everything fits correctly before the welding is done.

Hope that helps.

Clay

Yes that makes perfect since, thanks!


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Rusted through areas of the floor and firewalls are officially replaced. We have fresh clean metal there and buttoned up now - feels like a bit of a milestone.

I used the internal frame paint (shown earlier) as weld thru primer between the floor and tunnel/firewall sections, which is high in zinc and worked out great. I welded these panels on the outside of the car as well as the inside.. probably over kill but at least I can say it’s thoroughly done.

In process

.. and completed - I’ve got solid floors again !!

Good persistence, good looking progress!

Thanks, I set myself a paint date goal of mid- October.. so that’s my motivation as of late.

Ok so I installed the external seat supports .. coated the internal side with internal frame paint.

Here it is all buttoned up:

Got a couple small items checked off the list

The little bracket that holds the long parking brake cable.. I finally figured out where exactly it mounts but honestly I kind of just guessed at which direction it was supposed to sit (couldn’t find a clear pic, but pretty sure this will work)

Installed :

Next I fabbed up a little support bracket for the tube (of the long parking brake):

Well you did better than I. I forgot all together to put them on my car.

.. and got that installed:

.. then it was on to that pesky PS rear hinge (rear trunk lid), had to repair the bracket first:

Got it measured out and located properly before welding it into place:

The bigger accomplishment tho, was getting the corner brackets (w/ jack donuts) installed. Before:

Installed… I reused the DS one so it’s not as pretty but is definitely solid :

Been wet for a couple days but I was able to get out and weld up those annoying factory placed openings in the floor. These -

After..

.. next I’ll be patching the huge hole in the frunk floor (ac condenser). AC is actually gonna be a must, but since this car is slated for a Suby engine, that huge floor opening needs to go. Stay tuned..

I Have the same issue. Im thinking of making a plate that bolts in with reinforcement around it

My other 914 project car (a future build) has a generic plate of steel attached under where the opening was for a condenser… it’s all painted up nicely, but I hate the look of the generic steel plate tbh. If I was keeping that car non-ac I’d have to rip that plate patch out and source a proper replacement. But luckily the car will have ac too - and I have a condenser box for it. BTW, the replacement panel that I’m using on my current project is stock material cut out of a scrapped 914, was much cheaper than new but did have a couple small rust holes to repair.. no biggie tho.

Frunk floor replacement panel ready to install.. it’s a repurposed piece obviously and is crusty but very solid - looks worse than it is. I’ll go back and clean it up later when I address the area for paint:

.. not my best welds, as I had trouble chasing good grounds the whole time. All old metal - go figure

.. the inside side , I’ll go back and seem seal it at some point.

This next issue is a doozy… this car was in a front end accident in its previous life and the geniuses that made the repair, decided to graft a front section (of another 914) on in such a way that the seal channels (from the doner) we’re sitting down inside the old seal channels, and lightly tacked in . This caused all kinds of issues… not the least of which was that the seals no longer would sit low enough for the frunk lid to close properly. So I’m in the process of reversing this - ive cut away the excess doner metal in the channel and the excess original metal and am welding them together to correct the height and hood alignment issues. In the following pic you can see a long cut where my pen is pointing- doner metal on the left, original on the right. Then below that, of course you can see a section of missing metal - where rust ate thru because of the over-lap of the “repair”.

.. it was the same story on the driver's side, I butt welded the seam, ground down the highs, primed and skimmed the seam & channel with fiberglass filler for a nice level base for the seals. Here’s a shot of the DS post operation:

I stripped down the back side of my stock heat shield..