I would like to pre run before installing, but it looks like a lot of work to make this happen. So the answer is no, I’m going stab it and hope for the best.

Finally got the engine installed, what a pain. I should have purchased the engine plate that sits on the floor jack. I had the engine on my floor jack but was not able to get it stable enough to my liking, so I put it on a four wheel dolly, rolled in under with ease and then used a cherry picker to raise into place. This was my first engine install and I will do several things differently next time. Like leaving the fuel rails and hoses off, these took a beating and made things much more difficult than they needed to be. Hopefully I didn’t cut a fuel line or worse break an injector.

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It’s bout to get real

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Then I figured I would attach the axles to the trans and this where things went south. So the rubber bellows was not lined up correctly with the bolt holes so I proceeded to try and align them and all of a sudden one of the ball bearings drops out then another. I tied to get them back in but it wasn’t going to happen. So I started removing the outer CV joint, but then while I was maneuvering it around to remove the bolts the axles pulls out and all the bearings fall out. So I have this huge mess, grease every where. Then I tried to get the CV joint out but the dowels had a good bite and we’re not letting go. Then I remembered, I had not torqued the stub axle bolt down, so I was able to easily tap it out and pull it and the attached CV joint out together. I think I spent most of the day dealing with this mess. Of course I had to clean everything up again, and I had no more grease or extra CV gaskets.
Some days are just going to get the better of you, this was one.

Yeb That’s one of those days when it is beter to walk away and try the next day again... Ask me how I know...

yikes! i hear you, been there and done that too, especially with the fuel rail removal prior to install. it’s really tight with everything on there. i have done CV and this time with just transmission it was not an issue, but luck for you your stub axle was not torqued down! BTW thet motor looks great! do you think it’ll be running for the Classics opening in 2 weeks or Werks in 3?? hope to see you there!

Phil

Hard to say, I never know how much time things are going to take. Some days a good amount of progress is made and others, not so much. I would guess probably not at the current pace.

Cheers,
John

Oh wow! I feel your pain, but did you invent any new words? Still, this is a huge accomplishment and that engine looks sublime! I also decided to use the chassis as my engine "test stand" and don't regret it. Also, if it is any consolation, I've lost count of the number of times I've installed a 914 (or bus) engine, but after a 35 year hiatus, it was like a whole new experience again, and not in a good way. Like an idiot, I tried to stuff mine in there with carbs on. Horrible idea. You are making great progress though despite the greasy little BBs running all over the floor.

Most (close to all) of us have real jobs and turn wrenches as a hobby and often take one step forward and several steps back. I can't recall how many flat VW engines I changed back in the '70's, but after 40+ years the motions are not quite the same.

@BB - Thanks for the heads up with regards to installing the engine with carbs attached.

She’s alive! Well most of her.

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The one thing I really wanted to hear when I turned the key to the on position was the fuel pump, well, it didn’t happen. Before I put fuel in the tank and try to start, I need to figure this out. So far I have tested for power at the pump, no go. Then I ran a wire from the battery to the pump and the pump is good. I have power to the relay, and I have switched the relay for another untested unit. One of the reasons I decided to install the pump on the back fire wall (close to its original location) is because the original wiring was there and it would be easy.
The original wires had the plug for the original fuel pump cut off, so I just lengthened them a bit attached the brown to the ground and the (I think) black and red to the positive side. I guess the next step is to check the control box?
If this turns into a big hassle I may relocate it to the front where I wanted it in the first place.

This is the battery set up I decided upon. I wasn’t keen on it at first but the weight savings was very attractive. If it doesn’t work out, look for it on the classifieds.

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I have yet to test the headlights, I had the relays out, and ran out of time. The fog lights are not working either. So, as expected, I have some issues to work through

Another great milestone! At this rate, you'll be driving before me.

A couple thoughts on the fuel pump. First, I'd make sure there is a known GOOD relay in both the power and fuel pump sockets before digging deeper (and of course double check the fuses).

If it still won't run, you could try by-passing the ECU by wiring the pump like you would for carbs. It's a simple jumper to ground (http://www.914world.com/specs/SirAndyCarbFuelPumpRelay.php). If it runs, then your probably looking at something amiss in the ECU circuit. IIRC, the pump should run for something like 2 seconds when the key is switched on and turn off again unless the engine is started. I would also deduce from the method to trick the pump into running with an ECU, that the brain is controlling the pump by completing and breaking the ground circuit, so that would be another clue of what to look for.

I have a weird relay that refuses to work with the cover cap on. If I pry the cap off to expose the relay, it works fine. As soon as I glue the cap back on, it stops working. I've repeated this twice now with the same result. Fickle little bugger.

Your CV joint story had me laughing and crying at the same time. I had the same thing happen to me a while back. You see one of those bearings fall out while you're lying on your back under the car and just have time to say oh sh*t before the rest go like dominos.

Your car looks fantastic. Great work!!

Thank you, I will try to solve this mystery by starting with good relays per your advice. Electrical gremlins can be quite annoying. Sounds like your relay is afraid of the dark.

I’m happy to provide laughter, it is kind of funny looking back. Not so much when it happened

Cheers, and thanks for the kind words.
John

That's a good one. Just another indication that I'm not right in the head is that I somewhat enjoy chasing down electrical problems. Something about the process of isolating components of the circuit to zero in on the problem pleases me. What I don't like is discovering the "problem" requires tearing out the dash to access for a 10 minute repair.

I too enjoy the challenge of fixing electrical issues, the problem is, I’m not very knowledgeable when it comes to understanding the way everything works. So I will be relying heavily on the world members to get me through it.

So far, I have no power to the fuel pump, headlights work but are not popping up, and the fog lights are not working. And even though we rarely get thick fog here, I want them to work.

On a good note, my horn works, stereo works, the fresh air blower works (thank God, I did not want to have to remove and reinstall that piece), blinkers etc. So god willing, I’ll be fixing some of these issues this week, with the fuel pump having the priority so I can get this baby started.

I can’t wait to see yours out on the pavement where you can open her up.

Still trying to sort out the lack of power to my fuel pump.

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I have gone through Jeff’s fuel pump trouble shooting tests, and so far the first 7 are good, but #8 failed indicating a bad relay board. Should I stop here and replace the relay board. Or should I start testing the ECU board. I do have the ECU from the original engine (1.7)
I should fill you in on what I started with and what is currently in the car.
It had a ‘73 1.7 liter with d jet when I purchased the car. The PO ( who is reputable) posted a video of the car running, so I know everything was good several years ago. Fast forward, I purchased a 73 2.0 with the fuel injection components, and that is what is in the car now.

This is my current MPS and ECU. Are these compatible?

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I also have this MPS off the original 1.7

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Definitely start with the relay because 1) it should be easy to test connectivity along the traces for the fuel pump, and 2) from what I understand, the relay is much more likely to go bad than the ECU.

I agree, I’m really hoping it’s not the ECU. It would be very difficult to replace it with all the wiring and such. I do have the extra ECU from the 1.7 if needed, and maybe I could just change the box out if need be and leave the harness in place.

Off to the classifieds to find a relay board.

Did you test the relay board? With a schematic you should be able to test conductivity along the traces and confirm that is the problem before throwing money at it.

So, after taking a break from the car during the hot humid summer, I am back at it. As previously stated, I was having an issue of no power to the fuel pump when I turned the key. After replacing the relay board still no go, so I swapped out the ECU with an extra I had and this did the trick
So now that I had power to the pump, it was time to put gas in the tank. I checked for leaks and found none, so it was time to light the fire. First I disconnected the coil wire and cranked it several times to get the oil moving. Then I hooked it up and tried to start and nothing.
I started checking to see if I had fuel to the pump, and there was not. I had a hell of a time getting the air out of the system, but after a fuel bath I was able to finally get fuel up to the injector rail. Once I had fuel to the engine she fired off immediately She ran pretty good for just having the timing close, and also idled nicely.
So after tying up some loose ends, I was ready take my first drive ever in this car.
The car was still without doors, rear trunk lid, engine lid, and the windshield. The purpose of this drive was to make sure I had a working transmission, I was not disappointed, it seem to shift smoothly into all the gears. Big relief! I did not want to install all the other pieces on the car until I knew the trans was going to work in case I had to drop the engine and trans. Less chance of getting dings or scratches if they stay stashed away under heavy padding.

So now that the drive train appears good, I am starting the install of the remaining pieces. The rear trunk lid was first. After bolting it on, I slowly lowered the lid to check alignment and latch engagement. It all looked pretty close with a small adjustment needed. When I went to push the release button, nothing happened, so I figured it was in the locked position, but after switching the position with the key, nothing. I must have put the latch together improperly Now my lid is shut and I cannot see how to get it open, what are my options? Help

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Hello John,

Nice build.
Thanks it gives a lot of information on the build. I am doing a 70 with a 2.0, side shift in Adriatic Blue.
Thanks again Jim

Jim, you are more than welcome! This forum is the best! I was fortunate to follow several builds here to help me out in a big way. The least I could do was to give back by posting some of my work.
Good luck with your ‘70!
Cheers,
John

Really nice work, everything on your car looks great. Your write up has been appreciated as well. Looking forward to seeing it on the road.

John - WOW! Your car looks wonderful! Great job and thanks for documenting.

Thank you! Do you have any ideas on how to remedy getting my trunk lid open. I must have put the lock plunger in the wrong orientation after disassembling and cleaning and now I can’t open the lid.

By the way, love the new BMW. Because two projects (that I know of)were not enough…

Cheers,
John

Morph Maybe this link has useful info : http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=207951

Finally got the trunk lid open. I tried a golf club, a ratchet with several extensions added and taped to hold them together, and a brass rod with a bend on the end. What finally worked was the brass rod. After learning I could see through a couple of small holes at the top of the firewall I was able to get the brass rod back to the lock and release the latch.

This is the tool that finally worked.
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The 2 small holes at the top of the firewall made it much easier to see into the trunk.
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I had the release pin 180degrees out, so when I would push it in, it was doing nothing.
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It was an easy fix after I took the lock out and flipped the release pin to the correct orientation.
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oh boy! you are in good company, i also had this happen on getting my new motor back in the car in September, ended up taking the cv out just like you did and i took it completely apart and reassmebled it before reinstalling it. It was not as bad as i thought it would be.
Car is looking great, hope to see you out and about in Jax/St. Augustine/daytona soon!! I need to come down for the next Caffeine and Octane show.
Do you have a goal date in mind for road test?

I’m hoping by the end of the year. I have had a hell of a time with the doors, and glass, and getting them adjusted properly. With all new seals, things don’t fit as they used to. I’m still not happy with them.
The next thing on my list is the windshield, I have not decided if I’m going to tackle this or not. I have everything to do it, including new trim, but a bit hesitant on this task.

Cheers, and Merry Christmas!
John

The windshield replacement is not a particularly difficult task (having just replaced my original windshield recently...single-handed).

Assuming you've also purchased the new trim clips and spacers?

Pick up a couple of these suction cups from Harbor Freight (or similar):

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-23-in-dual-...5-lb-57501.html

Keep in mind, there are likely fewer and fewer auto glass installers that are actually familiar with butyl tape windshield installations. You'll probably get someone doing this for the first time also.

Plenty of videos available on YouTube showing how to do this.

John,

I called our local porsche dealer , they have a guy that does all of the windshield installation for the dealership all new and old. I ordered my new glass from Porsche, OEM, they went by and picked it up and brought it to my house and installed it., Glass was $500($50off PCA discount) and they charged me $100 for install, since i had the butyl already too. Check with the dealership they might do the same thing , or have a name of an independent that would install it for you.

I do have all the necessary tidbits, but I do need to look into the suction cups.

When I look at the top of the windshield it appears to me that the interior trim piece is too proud to let the windshield seat properly. I’ll have to watch the videos.

Cheers,
John

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Phil, not a bad idea. However I am reusing my windshield so not sure if they would be willing to install my old windshield. Might be worth a call.

Well it’s starting to look like a car again. I decided to tackle the windshield install, the butyl tape and glass is fairly easy. The pain started when I tried to install the trim it went well for the firs several clips, but when I got over to the passenger side near the top the glass was sitting up against the clip not allowing the trim to slide in and lock. And it was spaced evenly all the way around but there were three or four areas where the glass was up against the clip. Any way after much pain, suffering, walking away for a couple of days, a few modifications, I have the trim pretty much in, the lower corner on the driver side did not seat all the way in, but at this point I’m not willin to give it a tug to see if it’s locked in. If it’s not, a bit of driving will make it pop loose, then I will deal with it.

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I boogered up the corner piece of the trim while trying to get it in.

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Drivers side at the bottom still not seating properly.

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I know it’s bass ackwards, but I wanted to show how I installed the new clips.
I used a deep socket to set the clip.

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Then used a punch to push in the pin and lock in place.

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Also marked the location of all the clips so I knew where to apply the pressure when installing the trim.

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I’m trying to level out the front end and lower just a bit, but I’m having a bit of a problem pulling the end caps off the torsion bars. I pulled the adjusting bolt all the way out, jacked up the car to relieve any pressure, still not budging. I then took the wheel off and tried lifting the a arm up to see if that would work, again, no luck.

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The cap seems to be wedged in at the top position

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Getting ready to install the felt piece in the front trunk. This is a piece from 914 Rubber, it is bigger than the original. Has anyone had experience installing this piece? Should I trim to the original size or install as is. It is difficult to know due to the contours and uneven surfaces this covers.

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[quote name='Morph914' date='Jan 24 2021, 06:16 PM' post='2885395']
Time to get the fan shroud cleaned up

Fan shroud looks amazing, may I asked what you used to clean it?

[quote name='AKFish' date='Jan 29 2022, 10:40 PM' post='2978327']
[quote name='Morph914' date='Jan 24 2021, 06:16 PM' post='2885395']
Time to get the fan shroud cleaned up

Fan shroud looks amazing, may I asked what you used to clean it?
[/quote]

If I remember correctly, it was solvent and various types of brushes, wax and grease remover, then painted with a ceramic silver paint.

Got the felt glued on to the partition in the frunk. This was from 914 Rubber. I am mostly pleased with the results. It’s a bit tricky trying to get the felt to lay down on the top ridge. There are a couple of spots that didn’t get covered by the felt and you can see the orange paint on top, so I might try to paint these areas black.

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These are the two spots the felt didn’t cover.

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Added the door manufacturer/ VIN sticker to the door jam, I looked for info on the correct location without any luck, so I just took a leap and put it where I thought it should go.
This is not a show car, so I’m not worried about it.

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Is your sway bar keeping the A-arm from drooping enough to take the tension off the adjuster...?

Could be, I’ll check into that

Enjoyed reading your build this morning. I am putting a barn find BB back on the road, and while mine doesn't need much, I pick up bits and pieces of good advice by reading these posts. I'll be sure to get the lift device from tangerine when I put the engine back in, as well as take off the fuel rails. Thanks.

I’m happy to help, I have learned a great deal from others here so just tying to give back however I can

Cheers,
John