That is a very good question. And one I'll need an answer to at some point in the future. I'll give you a

Figured it out, it has to go on the outside to tighten up. After disconnecting a bunch of stuff, I was able to positioned correctly.

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The remaining speed nut is where the bottom pad and vents fasten to.

Has anyone had any issues with the 914 Rubber dash top? I have tried everything to get the ash tray gap to an acceptable amount, but no such luck. It appears to me that the mold may have been off because the horizontal area above the tray is not straight. I would be more willing to accept this if it didn’t fit so much better in the old dash top. The other thing is the left side is not sitting properly around the gauge pod. It seems to be kicked up a bit.
I know it is attached properly as I had the entire dash out for the restoration. And was able to get to everything easily to make sure it was right. This is the one piece I was hoping would put a smile on my face... not so much
Maybe I just need to let it sit out the sun for a while???
914 Rubber has been a great resource to get this car to where it is today and where it will be in the future. I’m just frustrated in this crowning jewel piece of the interior.

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I am getting ready to install the fuel pump on the engine fire wall. I was going to move it to the front near the fuel tank but have decided for now to keep it close to the original location being that the electrical is in place and can be readily connected. I was going to use riv nuts to mount it, but this requires a fairly large hole to be drilled, and I do not have the tool. What have you used to mount your pump in this area?

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Also getting the fuel tank ready to install, I received the newly plated line that connects at the bottom of the tank, ( thanks bdstone ). His came with two gaskets or fiber washers, is this correct? If so, I need to find a new set for the larger line ( maybe Ace has these).
I plan to use the braided fuel line underneath the tank due to its flexibility, but not sure in the engine compartment, does one have an advantage over the other?

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Today I was able to spend a bit of time cleaning and inspecting the transmission before I attach to the engine.

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I do not know the history of this trans so I was wanting to at least reseal it before running, but now have decided to put fresh 90 wt and run it.

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Yes! Mine is like that too. I tried adjusting the little screws on the back to raise it up but ran out of adjustment. I put it on the back burner as something to try to tackle later but it does drive me nuts every time I look at it. Also like you, the gap in the original dash was very good.

huh, i knew i had the option listed on the COA ans purchase paperwork but didn’t know what that thing was ans it never worked so i probably just need a new relay too- where did you buy it?

I finally decided to go back to my old dash top as it only had two small cracks I have nothing bad to say about 914 Rubber, as they have been a pleasure to work with. This car is 47 years old so who knows what has happened to it over the course of its existence.
Although it’s a tough pill to swallow, I can’t let it deter from the project progressing. Onward!

This was already installed on the car when I purchased it. I have seen these for sale, just can’t remember where.
I have yet to hook the wiring up other than installing a ground wire to the negative terminal of the pump. I know one of the wires from the carmagic switch goes to the positive terminal of the pump, but not sure about the other if it goes to a switched side of the fuse panel or since mine has the relay for intermittent wipers, if it goes to the brown wire off the relay.

I made my own intermittent wiper harness and bought the relay on ebay. Jeff Bowlsby has a great write up on them that includes part #s to look for: https://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/Wip...nstructions.pdf

So I already have the intermittent relay on my car. I have installed the car magic switch in the column. The new washer pump has been installed under the reservoir, I have grounded the pump and run a wire to from the positive terminal of the pump up to the column, this wire will connect to one of the car magic wires, but I am not sure if the other wire goes to the switched side of the fuse panel or the intermittent relay.
Any help with this would be appreciated.

You can see the two blue carmagic wires, one of those will connect to the red wire from the washer pump. Ian am looking for direction on where the other should go.

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I am trying to get all these little loose ends tied up before dropping the fuel tank in, as it is much harder to work in there with it installed.
I am using the braided fuel line under the tank as it is much more flexible. I will probably add enough extra to lift the tank out without having to remove the lines.

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Also wondering what this hole next to the brake fluid lines is for. I don’t want to install the tank more than once if possible.

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It's great that we have 914 Rubber.
Unfortunately on many parts they get pumped out too fast without a lot of real world test fitting.
Enter the dash top.
Mine is the same way.
I think I found out a way to get the ash tray to fit better.
Don't ask me how after all this time.

One other thing you may or may not have noticed.....
Both ends of the dash top bow up a bit such that they don't meet the lower trim all that well.
See yellow arrow in the following pic.

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I have a big (1/4" gap) on both ends of the dash where the upper dash top meets the lower dash pieces.
It bothers me enough....that I've thought about getting the lower dash pieces reupholstered such that they come up and meet the upper dash top better.
Currently I have some kind of material in there that just fills up the gap.
Aggravating for sure.

Your car looks great.
Keep up the stellar work.

Thank you for the kind words.
Regarding the dash top, I decided to remove the new one and go back to my original which was in pretty good condition.

Starting to get some tidbits ready for the engine. After cleaning the fuel injection harness I decided to replace the fuel injector rubber boots. For some reason I had two black and two grey boots for the injectors. Does this signify something, perhaps odd or even cylinders? The grey boots were still in good condition so just changing the crispy black ones.
Notice the handy dandy release tool I made with a large paper clip, just a few taps with a hammer on the edge to flatten out.

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Im not sure if the wire orientation matters, but I marked one of the wires after taking it out so it would return to the same side.

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Getting the boots on were a bit of a pain, I used a bit of WD 40 to lube the boot.
After you get the wires through make sure and push the tab back up on the connector or it will not lock into place.

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The plastic piece that fits into the injector is notched on two of the corners as if to fit into the injector in a specific manner but the injector has no such matching cut outs. Does anybody know if it matters which way these go in?

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After replacing some of the seals on my side shift trans yesterday, I decided today to tackle the small shift rod seal. This little bugger gave me about a 2 hour plus fight. First I tried a seal puller with no luck, too big for this small seal. I tried a small screw driver, a pick, I drilled a small hole in the top of the seal (very carefully) inserted a screw and tried to pull it out, no go. I used my Dremel tool to carefully cut two notches 180 degrees apart, and then inserted a washer into the notches and slid a long punch through the washer and tried to twist it out, no go. Next, I got the torch out and put some heat to it, tried prying again with several different tools, no go. Finally, I put it in the vise with thin wood strips to protect the part, more heat more prying and it finally gave up.

I started by pressing the roll pin out with a small bolt on one side and a socket on the other. This worked perfectly. I was careful not to press the pin all the way out, as these can be a bugger to get back in.

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After removing the shift rod, the process of removing the old seal began.

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This is what was left after getting the seal out. Notice that the old one was not rubber coated on the side like the new one. Perhaps this is why it was so difficult to get out.

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I will install the new seal tomorrow

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Time to get the fan shroud cleaned up

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Decided to pull the trigger on the 123 Dizzy

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I’m trying to figure out if I have all my bits and pieces for this 2.0 L , I purchased this engine in pieces so I do not have the luxury of photos or bagging and tagging.

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Connecting the new alternator wiring harness to the alternator. I love working with clean new parts! I will clean up the pulley and prep for paint.

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The pulley after fresh paint

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I can’t remember where this plastic piece goes, I seems to fit well here. It did not show in the book so will have to wing it as I assemble.

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Now getting the air filter housing ready for paint, this should be the last big piece to clean and paint other than the targa top.

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It looks like you're just a couple of steps ahead of me in the putting it back together process, so your thread is a huge help.

How did you put the new FI injector boots on without ripping or cutting them? Will the small end stretch enough to go over the connector?

You have to remove the wires from the plug, use a paper clip with a flattened end to remove the wires. Slide the new boot on then reconnect the wires.

Cheers,
John

Your photos make sense now. Thanks for the info. this seems like an easier project than I thought.

Trying to figure out if I have all my heater parts and pieces.

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Also got this vacuum line kit for the 2.0L at AA, I wish it had the red lines included. I may have to use bbrocks method for changing these to the red color.
I think 914 Rubber may now be carrying the red lines...

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I wish this diagram was color coded so I know which lines need to be red.

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Time to clean and inspect the seat belt bits and pieces.

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Off with the old PRESS sticker

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And on with the new sticker

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And now for the retractors

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The belts seemed pretty dirty, so I decided to give them an overnight bath

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After soaking and manually agitating the water was black, so I dumped it out and soaked again in water only. The water was only slightly dirty, so I called it good. After this, I hung them up over night to dry. They seem to be working much better now.

I was making fairly good progress today until my four arm engine attachment interfered with the right side tin going on.
I was able to get the alternator, some of the left side tin, the 123 distributor installed before the road block. I will need to get some kind of hoist to lift the engine off the stand so I can rotate the arm 180 degrees and then put it back on the stand. I’ll then continue with the assembly.

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This is the part of the arm that interfered with the tin.

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I tested the thermostat with a heat gun to make sure it works, and it was satisfying to see it work as designed.

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Is there any benefit to mounting the coil here versus on top of the tin? I have both mounts, so I can go either way. I kind of like this one better.

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Is there any benefit to mounting the coil here versus on top of the tin? I have both mounts, so I can go either way. I kind of like this one better.

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Yes, keep it on he fan shroud. All the ones mounted on the tin caused fatigue cracks as the tins are too weak to hold the coil over time. Porsche moved it there for a reason.

John, do you have a part number for the fan shroud coil mount?

Thanks in advance!

Steve A-

I’ll check tomorrow and let you know.

Started on the vinyl last week, the weather has been in the 70s with low humidity, so need to take advantage. I am trying to finish anything that needs to be painted or glued before the heat and humidity set in.

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I was super stoked on how the vinyl turned out and happy to have that behind me.

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Today was rear window install day. First off I replaced the engine lid to glass seal.

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Set the spacers at the bottom

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Install the butyl rope

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And then the glass. It went ok, but I’m not at all satisfied at this poor design of having nothing to keep the glass in place other than the butyl. I’m going to try and come up with something...

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Also worked on installing the vinyl on the floor

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Then started fitting the carpet

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And finally the carpet strip and threshold plate. These were a bit of a challenge due to having to redrill all the holes since an inner long support kit had been installed. I’m going to leave the center consul and carpet pieces off in case I need access to the electrical after first start/test.

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Looks great! We were in sync on targa vinyl, but you leaped ahead with carpet.

Nice touch with the new stickers. Where did you get them? And I assume you have to take them apart to remove/replace them?

Yes, you will have to take it apart to get the old sticker off, but this is very easy to do. As far as where I purchased, I don’t remember, they were sitting in a box for a couple of years. Either 914 Rubber, AA or Pelican I would guess has these.

This is great, thanks for posting and sharing all of your information. we are several months behind your project but will use the information gained from your posts

You are welcome, l have also benefited from other posts in a big way, so just trying to pass it down.

I pulled the targa top out to check the condition. It will need a complete restore. Off with all the old bits and pieces.

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The short side metal pieces are not included in the new 914 Rubber seal with the fuzzy trim, so I had to dissect them off the original seal. This is not an easy task, but it was better than finding a piece of steel and and cutting, etc.

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These are the harvested pieces, not great but they will do.

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This will be its new home.

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Time for some window seal replacements. The new seals are from 914 Rubber.

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First off was replacing the top fuzzy seal

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The first thing I notice is that the original seal or fuzzy strip is much more substantial than the new one. So much so that it won’t even stay in the track, perhaps I got the wrong seals? If not I will have to use some adhesive to keep these in place.

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Next were the vertical seals

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These seals fit nicely and are plenty long so I will trim later when I install them.

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Today I’m continuing with the refresh on my targa top. I will be installing the 914 Rubber headliner. First I just laid the piece in to check the fit, it looks good but I wasn’t sure if it’s supposed to be trimmed on the sides to lay flat or not. I elected to leave it the way it came, because the chances of me getting a good clean straight cut would be slim.

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Next I masked everything off that I didn’t want adhesive on, and then applied the 3M adhesive to both surfaces in a criss cross pattern.


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After waiting about 10 minutes, I had a buddy help me with getting it in straight, etc. Super stoked on how good this came out. It was a nice piece, and looks fantastic!

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Here’s more after the front pad install.

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I left the side seals a bit long and will fit the top if and when I can get my main targa seal in. Then I will trim the seals as necessary.
Happy to have this part refreshed!

+1, looks great, check another item from the list

Time to get the engine off the stand so I can marry the trans to it and start putting on all the bits and pieces.

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The trans meets its new mate.

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Intake runners, fuel injectors, fuel lines

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Got the 123 dizzy installed and wired to the coil

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Unfortunately, I may have to relocate the coil back to the tin location due to my coil wire being too short. I prefer this location though so I might just make up a longer wire.

Now trying to get my vacuum lines connected. I purchased the kit from AA but having a difficult time figuring this out. I have referred to many different diagrams and they all seem to differ a bit and then the ports on my air cleaner are a bit different.

Like this big port on the back of the air cleaner, it has an ID of approx 3/4” and I believe this is where one of the lines from the charcoal canister connects, but I don’t have any hose in my kit that fits this. Is there a reducer for this stub?

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Looking good! You made the right call installing your HEs with the engine on the stand. I was too chicken and they were a bit of a pain to put on laying on my back with gravity working against me. Not terrible, but once I got them on, I knew they would have been just fine to install on the stand.

Funny you mentioned this, I was very apprehensive to install these on the stand because it’s a lot of leverage hanging out there to possibly do damage. But the the ease of installing on the stand won out. So after the install I go to rotate the engine 180 degrees so I could take it off the stand, and guess what the damn gone HE hit the stand after 90 degrees , what a dumb ass am I.
So off came the one that gave me the least amount of trouble, turned the engine another 90 degrees and then laid on my back and installed the HE for the second time.
So all and all, if I had to do it again, I think I would go your route. The other issue was when I held my muffler up to check alignment, it was way off, so I had to loosen the HEs again to line up the muffler.
Live and learn baby!

Looking good, keep the progress reports coming, inspiration for us following behind.
Thanks

Well that makes me feel better but sounds a lot like how my weekend has gone. Lost count of the number of times I've removed and replaced the same damn part because this need to be done first or why the hell is that gasket still on the bench? Only now it's all happening in the engine bay. Funny how time erases the memory of what a pit of horrors that is! It's an adventure!

If it was easy, our kids would do it.

Lucky is the man who has that luxury, even more so his grandson/daughter

I’ve been working on the engine last couple of days. I do have a couple of questions though. First off, I connected the green vacuum hose from the throttle body to the new 123 Dizzy, I used this port because it had the same size as the one on the dizzy. The other advance/retard port that is capped off had a smaller port. I’m hoping this is right


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The next picture shows a splitter coming off the AAR valve, I am not using the cold start valve so not sure if I should plug this off or not.

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Just about ready to put the engine in, any words of wisdom are welcome at this point. Obviously I will remove the air cleaner before stabbing the engine. I was just fitting the last of the vacuum hoses, the more I can do outside of the car the better for me and my back.

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Looks like you have the green hose plugged into the ported vacuum side which is correct, at least the way it was originally hooked up. Some people claim the other side (manifold vacuum) is better but I tend to lean toward connecting the way it came from the factory because I don't know any better I guess.

Car is looking fantastic! Great work. I appreciate your detailed pics.

Cheers, Dion

BTW, where did you get the green vacuum hose?

It came with the Auto Atlanta vacuum line kit. Unfortunately no red hose though, and I was not up to the dying task that you were successful with.

Thank you. I figure if I post pictures, you guys will help in pointing out my screw up’s

Cheers,
John

Looks clean and detailed, nice!

Lookin good and thanks for posting your progress. Will you try to fire her up prior to installing into the car?