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BillC
QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 19 2024, 12:17 AM) *

You might want to miter the corners of the engine compartment seals so they will close up tightly when the engine is in place.

That's a good suggestion. However, I think I'll wait until after the engine is in, just so I don't accidentally trim too much off.

IIRC, the factory actually installed hog rings to keep the corners closed.

QUOTE(914_Tcup @ Mar 20 2024, 12:03 AM) *

Do you have a post somewhere about your "Boxster"? I am looking at purchasing one, but want to see what others who wrench on them think. popcorn[1].gif

The Boxster is a '99 that I bought as a failed restoration and turned into a Spec Boxster race car. The guy I bought the car from bought it from an estate sale, but quickly realized it needed more work than was financially effective -- the roof was torn, the a/c shot, clutch slipped, old brakes & bearings, mice had moved into the center console, etc. This was perfect for a race car donor, since it was all stuff that would be removed or replaced in the conversion process.

Being a newer car, it is a little more complicated to work on (as a street car) than a 914. But the best part is virtually no rust -- the factory rust protection was greatly improved over the intervening 26 years. As a race car, though, it is fairly simple to work on, since most of the complicated stuff (a/c, heat, folding roof, interior, radio, etc.) has been removed.

Sorry, no post about the car, though. However, I did write a 2-part article about the conversion a couple of years ago for the local PCA chapter magazine, Der Vorganger. If anyone is really interested, I can see about copy/pasting it here.
BillC
In today's episode of "Trying to work on the 914 while life gets in the way", I finished wiring up the third brake light. I wanted to make sure I could remove the engine lid without having to remove all the wiring, and also to connect it to the car without modifying the factory harness.

First step was installing a plug at the base of the engine lid, so I can unplug the wires if the lid has to come out. I bought a Deutsch connector kit and crimp tool on amazon, and was pleasantly surprised at how well the crimp tool works.
Click to view attachment

For the wiring, I bought a roll of dual-conductor 16-ga wire in a black sheath, and ran it under the firewall padding and along the factory harness. Then, I used these piggyback connectors to tie into the left, rear brake light:
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
I made sure to heatshrink some insulation over the piggybacks, just to help keep things from shorting.

Finally, here's a pic of the 3rd light lit up:
Click to view attachment
The trunk lid isn't closed, which is why it looks a little funky.
FlacaProductions
Worthwhile addition - nice work.
bkrantz
Very cool.
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