Gerry and I completed deck height today. We set it up with .132" spacers under the cylinders and came up with a deck height of .049" on 1 and 2 and .050" on 3 and 4. the compression ratio works out to 9.90 so I'll use a set of .134" spacers to get tiny bit more deck and a little less CR.

Here's the gear ready to go

The lower end ready

The fixture on and torqued.

With the dial indicator on it

this thread is a hoax. dave's garage is not that clean .

k

Despite having to chase a washer Here's what we got done. Installed cylinders. Here is #4 going on.

Installed heads

Here is Gerry torquing 3/4 head down

Checking valve train geometry. This is half lift on #3 exhaust. The adjuster is parallel to the valve stem. That's what the orange line represents.

On the intial build I used an adjustable pushrod and a lightweight spring on the valves so the adjustable pushrod wouldn't bend. This engine is so close that the same pushrods work so I just checked them with the normal springs. Much less work.

Dave

Another of the same thing

Full lift on #3 intake. I'm also looking for coil bind. Lift is in excess of .510 on intakes

Valve train done.

I had a thought. Jake put these lovely valve pockets in the pistons and the deck is a couple of thou tighter than before and the lift of the intake is a little more than I expected. Maybe I should check the piston to valve clearance. I don't want anything to kiss.

I used something I'm familiar with from the office red boxing wax. When I do a cap I cut 1.5mm right of the top of the tooth and I check that dimension with this stuff. What is sittiing in the valve pockets measures 2.5 mm. It's made to stick so it sat in here really well.

After I did a couple of turns I checked them. Not a mark, so the clearance is greater than .110". I suppose it will be closer after everthing warms up especially the exhaust valve. I'm gonna run it.

One other detail. I decided to check the cam specs. I put a degree wheel from Tiava.com on the fan hub and a dial indicator on the valve spring retainer for #1 valves and then recorded where opening, closing .050 open and closed and max lift occured. It turned out close to the cam card so good to go.

Dave, are you sure you found that at Tiava.com??????
Gotta be careful where you put that "i"! Thanks for the reference.

QUOTE (Porsche Rescue @ Aug 3 2005, 05:08 PM)

Dave, are you sure you found that at Tiava.com?????? Gotta be careful where you put that "i"! Thanks for the reference.

yep....try free degree wheel instead....opps

Why what was I gonna link to? Nevermind I don't think I wavt to know.

Dave

Dave, Good measurements...

With that cam and those pistons I got the exact same running clearance a couple of wweeks ago, within 2 thou!

Was your max interferance point@ 8 degrees?

I call .080 totally safe on clearance, so you have a mile left before things collide..

But, where are the chopsticks?

John

Jake

I didn't check where the closest poit is. I'm not sure how I would do that with the bodged setup I used for measuring. Next time the head goes on it's for good. the headstud should get here today. I'm waiting on 1 top ring. It looks like I'll fire it up Labor day weekend and get it installed.

John

I had the head off so I set TDC with a dial indicator like I measured deck height. It is spot on. I have used a pencil, eraser side in but, I'll always remember chopsticks.

Dave

This may be the toughest thing to do. Getting the wire locks in to retain the wrist pins. Nerve racking too, cause it would be easy to drop them.

Safely in.

Oil cooler seals

Stuff for the front seal under the hub. I almost forgot the O-ring. 2" PVC works well for driving in the seal.

PVC in action

The big job of the day was balancing the new flywheel bolts. The old ones jake had supplied were exactly the same weight. Using a scale and then a balance and removing ever so slight an amount the new ones are all equal in weight. They are also clearance slightly.

Replacing the graphite coated washer in the flywheel.

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Aug 7 2005, 06:11 PM)

This may be the toughest thing to do. Getting the wire locks in to retain the wrist pins. Nerve racking too, cause it would be easy to drop them.

A shop rag or two stuffed into the cylinder spigot will do a lot to prevent bits from falling into the case. This is generally good practice whenever the case is assembled, and you're putting things onto it (like a certain wavy washer that made a bit for freedom). Just remember to pull them out before you put the cylinders on.

Here is the spacing sleeve in the end of the crankshaft. It keeps the pilot bearing in place.

Damn James that's a good idea. That would have made that set less stressful.

Dave

An old stub axle is just the right size to seat the rear main seal. The three shims are in already with a little lube.

Flywheel is on with the O-ring, 3 shims, spacing sleeve, pilot bearing, felt washer, seal, 5 hole washer and 5 bolts torqued to 80 lbs. Clutch is in place.

Pressure plate installed. The bolts are numbered with a stamp and the corresponding holes are numbered so I won't throw off the balance.

Gerry adjusting the valves

still havent figured valves out

i will though when i tear apart a engine.

Long Block DONE!

Dave

Congradulations Dave It must be a wonderful feeling to have it back together. I call a ride at WCC 06
Eric

Great Job, Must feel really good to get this rebuild done again, and let us know the performance of this Raby combo - I am thinking about it for my 4cly car.

Keep up the great work.

Dave, Hurry up and get that damn thing running!

914forme,
I have tons of folks you could contact about the "Performance" of one of my kits like Dave is putting together here, most of them are not on this board.

It's going in Labor Day weekend. I hate to wait but, I'm headed to Whistler for the PCA thing up there and I just don't have enough time to get it in, running, tuned, retorqued and valves adjusted, oil changed and some miles on it. It's killing me to wait. Sometimes it's damn hard acting like and adult. I'll just run Old Smoky. I'll lay down a smoke screen on the AX course. The tail draggers got to have something to wine about.

I have a real good feeling about this one. When we torqued the case down it spun so nice and easy and now it just feels more precise.

Dave

Yep- TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!

HASTE MAKES WASTE!

I decided to get some oil in it today so I got a little cheap pump that runs off of a hand drill and an oil filter block off plate. I had an old oil pressure sender which I drilled out and cleaned up. I added a mechanical pressure gauge. The end result was I pressurized the case to 25 psi with oil. Here's kind of a schematic courtesy of Haynes

Dave

I used a bolt with an O-ring to block the oil filter off so oil wouldn't back flow through it.

More

fgfh

The little pump that could.

So now there is oil in the cooler and some in the passages prior to startup.

You so smart....

Those V-8 guys get to prime their pumps beforehand, it always made me leary turning the engine over *WAITING* for oil pressure.

The first time I ever primed my 2270, I couldnt get pressure. I get out of the car to investigate, I discover a small Exxon Valdez coming out from under the engine.

Genius forgot to put on his oil filter... Must have been excited from *almost* getting the car to run...

Carry on Dave, carry on!!!

Tom

The engine oil prime rig I made for initial start up of my full flow engine is cool..

One piece of 12" long 4" PVC pipe...

One reducer from 4" to 2"

One reducer from 2" to 1"

One reducer from 1" to 3/8" NPT..... Then thread in the oil line that goes into the case main oil galley..

On the other end reduce it down to fityour air compressor...

Fill the 4" pipe with 4 quarts of engine oil and pressureize the canister with 60 PSI..... This completely fills the sump and gets oil all the way out to the rocker arms before the engine ever rotates....

Soin the engine over to get oil flowing from the oil pump and then hook everything up and crank for pressure... You'll have it in 10 seconds-

You can build this for 2 bucks and it works great!!

I have a high speed stainless version now- made from an emergency eye wash station- it has valves and the whole nine yards... If anyone wants to build one of these I'll share pics with you.