HOLY SHIT!

Are you any kin to Goliath???

DAMN- I have never sheared one of those studs, and I have had some pretty nasty encounters with them...

They exceed Aerospace quality!

Charles or myself may have some extras.

Guys: The scoop on Dave's engine was weird, he had a camshaft on one of the "problem" billets from early last year and it was coupled to ceramic lifters. If it had not been, it would have wiped out in 20 minutes.

In fact, seeing dave's cam gave me the leverage I needed to convince the cam grinder that "Those" Billets had issues and they should not be used- a suspicion I had never been able to totally illustrate with conventional lifters.

Dave had quite a few things going on at once- most of it aggrevated by a super rich mixture that was washing the cylinder walls down during a crucial ppoint of break in and accelerating wear.

Charles and i took care of him and learned something at the same time, due to the fact that we had never seen these wear traits before.

Dave, Slow down- DO NOT RUSH!

grab yourself a 12mm X 1.5 tap and chase those threads, they must have crap in them.... I also preheat the case a tad before installing those studs, and generally do not use 518 on them, my teflon 574 is slow to set and works great for them.

I experienced some difficulty from one of the studs yesterday myself as I was assembling the Super 2 liter, so it happens to all of us.... but I didn't break mine off

Keep it up Dave, it's a great thread, thanks man!


M

RIGHT ON DAVE Can't wait till you get her all back together and maybe I can catch a ride in that beast of yours AL

"Super 2 liter"? so what the hell is that?

k

My attempt to attain 50 MPG from a 2017cc TIV....

Read more about it later when I do the full write up on my website...

Its a high velocity, long stroke, long rodded, small bored, EFI'd, Direct fired daily driver for Beth's 79 German look vert...

long stroke huh? still torquey down low? hit that mpg mark with long engine life, and you'll sell them by the ton. price of fuel these days and all. sorry dave.

k

Jake

I figured that one out. I chased them with a tap this morning. I'm cetainly no goliath. I just had a lot of leverage. Interestingly, that was not too bad to drill and I got the thing dead center. I'll clean up the stuff tonight. Argh, back to cleaning parts.

I'll switch to the teflon stuff.

Dave

are the 2 return tubes plugged on your heads dave?

k

Kevin,
Thats exactly why we are doing this Super 2 Liter project- Gas prices have never been higher before..

The engine should make 130 lb/ft of torque from about 2,000 RPM on up from the computer models that we have so far..

It weighs in with a healthy dose of efficiency assistance (AKA CR) at 10.1:1 but should run fine on midgrade.

Its first long trip is scheduled fro November to the Florida Bug Jam- We want to make the whole trip on one tank of fuel.

Kevin My heads are off a 73 so no ports. I have a couple junk heads with ports if you want to play with them. Each head has 4 cracks.

Dave

surprizing cr. it's been a while since i visited your site. i look forward to the feature when you post it. when? 78mm(?), and i'm doing the fomula backwards to figure the piston size.

k

90.5 mm bore.. its a 78.4mm crank...

I used a TI 90.5mm piston inside a Nikisil plated, rebored 90mm (1700) TIV cylinder.

CR = Efficiency! It only has .035 deck to boot!

save those good 1.7 cyl guys!! would those be oem or the "other" "nickies"?

k

I plated a set of cast iron cylinders for Jake for that project- trying to improve the wear and oiling properties while getting a little more power from the reduction in friction. :-)

They aren' really Nickies... Just plated stock cylinders..
I am only doing it for friction reduction.

I am doing this for friction reduction as well... And also to control windage.

http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/r_d_superfinish.htm

Thats not chrome plated fellas- Those parts have been RAT Super Finished!

Jake, whats the cam advance here? 4 deg? And is it both in the cam and gear? or more one than the other? Whats it work out to, 2 deg a tooth?

I thought on a type IV that the cam advance/retard was done by a selected cam gear itself, not by adjustment - no?

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Jul 19 2005, 10:54 AM)

I thought on a type IV that the cam advance/retard was done by a selected cam gear itself, not by adjustment - no?

Yes and No, some cam companies make there cams with a 2 deg advance built in, some 0 deg, some of the type lV cam gears have a 2 deg advanced built in, some one may have there own gears made with a 4 deg advance.

There are the adjustable strait cuts, Magnum gears, makes strait cuts for type 1, and now makes them for type lV, $225 Fat performance has them made by Pauter $325.

QUOTE (V6914 @ Jul 19 2005, 09:46 PM)

QUOTE (V6914 @ Jul 19 2005, 10:46 AM) Jake, whats the cam advance here?  4 deg?  And is it both in the cam and gear? or more one than the other?  Whats it work out to, 2 deg a tooth?

I didn't advance the cam at all. Looking at the picture it's not as clear as I would have liked but, the dot on the cam is between the dots on the crank. If there is any advance built into the cam I'm not aware of it.

I'm back on track. 15 of the 16 head studs are in. I'm waiting for one from Charles to finish that task. The missing one is in a blind bore so I'll assemble the case.

Dave

Oil pressure relief pistons. I test fit them and the pistons are nice and free in the bore. So I laid out the pieces. It was finally time to get into the gasket kit. There is a copper sealing ring for the smaller assembly and an aluminum one for the larger

The large one goes on the right side front on the bottom

I found this old square from my dad and I used it with vice grips to tighten it. It fit the slot very well. Then a couple of taps with a mallet and chisel and it was seated real well

The small one goes between the lifter bores on cylinder # 1.

Here's a type 1 oil pump that's ready to go.

Nice and clean and packed with a little grease

Allright I was following along O.K. until you got to the type1 oil pump??
Why are you using a type 1 pump?

By the way! This thread 'ROCKS!'

Dave,

I think I topped your breaking the stud move.

I tightened the case down while the front cam bearing was not set properly... thinking the case was binding up a dowel or something. Well, I cracked the front cam bearing journal.

He is using a TI pump because it is far superior, it came in my kit and he is using my other oil system mods based on the TI pump.

My 3 liter is running the same pump- they rule. Tons of volume, better pressure and less HP draw from the engine..

Still making progress. Here's something that's easy to overlook. Thermostat cable pulley. It goes where the Q-tip is.

Here's the other end of the Q-tip from the inside of the case. Can you say oil leak?

Here's the windage tray and the oil pick up in the left side of the engine. There is an O ring on the oil pickup tube that needed for the oil pump to suction oil from the sump. I use a little bit of Gasket Maker on the ends of the windage tray seals cause they always want to come off the tray. That tacks them down a little.

So you not going with a Tuna can or Deep sump?

I'm trying to show that you have to catch a ring on the top of the oil pickup with on of the case bolts. I left the windage tray bolt to the oil pick up slightly loose to make this a little easier.

The part of the case the line goes to is the boss that breaks if you over tighten the stainer.

Rich, No deep sump or tuna can.

Here's the distributor drive with the thrust washer and spring. I think most people put this in before putting the case together. I aligned the notch in the dist body with the rotor and put the drive on the shaft. Then in it goes and I put the nut on the bracket

Here it is in the case half and nutted down. I have a crankfire ignition so I just run a dummy distributor but, it is nice for finding TDC.

I already posted pics of the crank and cam aligned. I put in the cam plug, put on sealants and dropped the left half on. Put in the oil pump and torqued everything down.

Here's the lower end. The crank turns smooth as can be.

Dave

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jul 20 2005, 05:59 AM)

I found this old square from my dad and I used it with vice grips to tighten it. It fit the slot very well. Then a couple of taps with a mallet and chisel and it was seated real well

[QUOTE]

Sqare?
Why am I sooo confused?

"I'm trying to show that you have to catch a ring on the top of the oil pickup with on of the case bolts. "

Huh?

Or what?

QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Jul 21 2005, 05:29 PM)

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jul 20 2005, 05:59 AM) I found this old square from my dad and I used it with vice grips to tighten it. It fit the slot very well. Then a couple of taps with a mallet and chisel and it was seated real well [QUOTE] Sqare? Why am I sooo confused?

Dave

Here's what I was doing. my dad's old tool just fit a difficult place. That's all

QUOTE (Dave Eddy @ Jul 21 2005, 05:34 PM)

"I'm trying to show that you have to catch a ring on the top of the oil pickup with on of the case bolts. " Huh? Or what?

The ring I was trying to show is on top of the oil pickup and a bolt goes thru a hole in the right side of the case then thru this ring and into a threaded hole in the left side of the case. The point is if you tighten the stainer more than 9.5 lbs you may break the threaded hole in the case. Type IV syndrome and ruined case

Time for crankshaft end play

Three shims .0145", .013" and .012" gave me an end play of .0045"

Here are the felt washer and the pilot bearing.

Here is the washer installed.

Good stuff Dave. This is a very informative thread as was the last one.

I should be doing deck height today but, I'm going to Walker's swap meet instead.

Other than the head stud it sure is going together nice. I haven't needed the persuader yet at all. It's a great feeling when the case halves go right together except for the last mm or so and then the crank turns by hand with a little flick of the wrist.

Dave

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jul 22 2005, 05:07 PM)

Here is the washer installed.

how does these marks hapen? there should be a big washer between the screws and he flywheel

You need to use the flywheel bolts lock plate, and you need to use a new one each time you torque the bolts, and you should of used an old one when you set the end play.

The locking teeth on the flywheel bolts, after there torqued on the flywheel a couple of times, they've chewed away a grove, now there is no material left for the bolts to lock into, so use the locking plate, it keeps the bolts from coming loose.

You guys are both right. A new washer and new bolts for the final assembly. I can't answer the question of how those got there except to say that someone didn't use a washer with this flywheel at sometime. While we did endplay we used an old washer and old bolts. When we installed it on the last build we used a new washer and the bolts Jake supplied. I can't remember when we checked endplay on the previous build. So, I can't say if it was us or not. With a new washer and new bolts, I think it will be Ok on final assembly but, I'll listen to all opinions.

Dave