All the parts are back except for the ones I forgot to order which I don't know about yet cause we haven't got that far yet. I'm sure I have enough to build 95% of the engine anyway. It's all new except for the heads, oil pump, and crank which was repolished.

Gotta take a first step. Ring gaps. Here's the top ring at a depth of 12 mm (top of piston to 2nd ring). .019". These are pregapped from JE. Everyone say run em at that gap. All rings were between .018" and .020"

Dave

Time to move on to another task. Put the can gear on the cam. The gear is countersunk and the bolts are shortened to make room for the Schadek oil pump. The old gear is on the right with no clearancing.

Dave,

Are those your replated Nikkies, or new ones?

I remember these days...

Have fun!



Tom

The gear will only align one way cause the spacing of the holes is not consistent. This is not right

This is correct. All the holes line up

After chasing the bolt holes and cleaning I tightened to 18 lbs with Locktite 262. Job done.

Dave

Tom

They are reconditioned.

On to the crankshaft. Time to install #3 main bearing, timing gear, spacer, dizzy gear, and retaining ring. #3 bearing is on with hole for dowel toward the flywheel end. The wife is gone and the gears are in the oven heating up. Fortunately, I have about 6 hours to get the smell out.

Lookin good Dave!

Glad you are back on it- sorry it took a while- we were trying to dis-sect the issue piece by piece.

Here's the rest of that assembly. After the bearing, the gear to drive the cam goes on. The only hard part is the side with the chamfer fits against the bearing. Next is a spacer, easy to forget. Then the distributor drive gear and finally a retaining ring go on. Access to oven cost some shopping time. Money well spent, she'll never know the difference. Coarse, I cleaned everthing really well first. 400 degrees for 30 minutes got the gears hot enough to expand them so I only needed a tiny bit of persuasion on the cam gear. It was really pretty easy except for the run from the kitchen to the shop.

On to connecting rods.

Dave

Dave, a small cooking eye works well for the gears... sit them on the red hot eye and cover them with a valve cover for 20 minutes and they'll drop on like nuttin!

Ha Ha Dave. When I did mine I didn't bother to make the run from the oven to the garage with the hot gears. I brought my crank inside and set it up on the kitchen counter right next to the oven. I did get some strange looks from the wife on what I was 'cooking'. But she didn't complain. No smell, no mess, so I wasn't worried.

Demick

Actually, it wasn't any problem. Everything went fine. I am glat the wife wasn't here though. Just 1 less "nutty" thing to explain.

Laid out the rods and bearings.

Cleaned everything and installed bearings

I was wondering what the outcome to your motor was...
Glad it's moving forward and hope it's a success this time.
Ferg.

say hi to the family

I checked the clearance with Plastigauge All 4 were .001". You'll have to trust me on this but the area between the orange lines is the plastigauge.

ARP rod bolts torqued to 15 then 20, then 25 and final 29 lb

Rod side clearance.019"

Keep going Dave!!

This one has engine rebuild CLASSIC status written all over it......

Cam Bearings and Main bearings #1, #2 and the thrust bearing #4.

Thrust bearing have flanges which limit the movement of the rotating assembly in it's long axis (crank and cam forward and backward). This is a double thrust cam bearing. If you are building an engine you will hear about this. Both halves have trust surfaces.

Here are the dowels in the right side of the case. There are 4. One is hidden by the # 2 bearing half. These dowels are the reason the right side of the case is on the bottom and attached to the engine stand. They are a bitch to find if they fall out. Cam bearings are in too.

I set the thrust bearing in the case and centered it in the dowel then scribed lines on the bearing (someone far more clever than me came up with this). Then when you install the crank you rotate the bearing to the scribe marks and the dowel is centered.

Bearing #1 scribed.

Bearings scribed

Next I installed the cam and crank. I lined up the 2 dots on the crank gear with the dot on the cam gear

Check of clearances. Tightest spot is rod cap to cam lobe. About 2 mm

The last thing I did today was torque down the case through bolts to 36 'lbs and check the bearing squish on bearing #2. This was the only one that plastigauge would work on. It's between .001" and .0015"

Who made your counterweighted crank? Can you tell a difference between it and a regular one in any way with engine running?

What kind of rods are those?

'Nother little trick: install dizzy drive gear, special washer, and dizzy before closing the case. (Try pulling that drive gear w/o dropping special washer into case after closing case w/ engine in car if you get drive gear 1 tooth off)

Hey, good luck this time around.

I'll be adding this to my "favorites".....I should be starting to put together a motor almost identical to yours, only major differance is the cam I bet....

Did you get the specs from Jake for clearances??

I'll have to see if he included them in my engine kit.....

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 15 2005, 08:47 PM)

I'll be adding this to my "favorites".....I should be starting to put together a motor almost identical to yours, only major differance is the cam I bet.... Did you get the specs from Jake for clearances?? I'll have to see if he included them in my engine kit.....

me too!

keep on postings pic´s

Heheheh....

I have some of the same pictures Dave...



That is a tight spot.

Also, good idea on scribing of the bearings. Here's what happens if you don't, then bolt the case together...





And no, the crank would NOT turn over after this stroke of genius...

Tom

dave's new video, titled "much faster the second time around" . are you racing for the whistler trip? do you plan on breaking this one in with rocky's carbs? might not be a bad idea if it will work.

k

The scribe procedure is straight out of Jake's video and I've been told to do it that by other builders too. Jake's video has got a bunch of great ideas.

The clearances on the rod bearings are the same as last time and they were fine before. I wanted to check them cause the crank was polished. I still have to check on the bearing squish, but I think it's OK. Some specs are in Wilson's book and a lot of times stuff like that can be found by searching ShopTalk Forums. Jake's taken a lot of stuff off of there since . If I get really stuck I Email Jake and he's been awful good about getting right back to me.

The crank came from Jake. I think DPR welded it but, I'm not sure. The rods are part of Jakes combo. They came from CB Performance but, I won't give the specs. I hope people understand I respect the fact that Jake has come up with combos that work through hard work and I won't give his hard earned knowledge away. No hard feelings I hope.

Kevin

It certainly is quicker the second time around. I don't know about this engine for Whistler. I do want to get it done before Gerry goes back to school cause time gets tight then. I really doubt the carb thing. I've got the bugs out of the FI so I'm kind of leaning that way.

Dave

It's supposed to be quicker the second time around... After I lunched my cam and lifters, the motor came out and on the bench. I got a few of those "Well, it's apart again, I might try this" and "I think it needs more compression, and Aircooled.net just got those new AL pushrods, so I'll bump it up some more".

Ahhh, the slippery slope.

Glad to see it's going together Dave. I'm really excited to see the MS work with it!!!

Tom

You should see the clearances inside the 3.0!

The rod to cam clearance is only .018 at max interferance

Works like a charm!

I remember the thread on the engine running too rich and washing down the cylinder walls, and the rings didn't seat. What else happened???

Perry

Here's a link to the dead engineThread

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jul 15 2005, 06:34 PM)

Next I installed the cam and crank. I lined up the 2 dots on the crank gear with the dot on the cam gear

Jake, you see this pm me, I have a question?

Thanks

QUOTE (DNHunt @ Jul 16 2005, 05:07 PM)

Perry Here's a link to the dead engine

Thanks for the link Dave!

Was the cam the only thing that got roasted? I hope the pistons and Nickies survived OK? I remember seeing those babies at Duke's last year .

QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Jul 16 2005, 12:46 PM)

You should see the clearances inside the 3.0! The rod to cam clearance is only .018 at max interferance Works like a charm!

dumb question, but at what point is the T4 case completly maxed? Is 3.0 that limit because of the very small clearance, or is there other ways to get around that issue for even bigger displacements?

Clearance is the biggest problem. When you go over "about" 78mm stroke, it gets really really really tricky to avoid having the bottom of the connecting rods slamming into the cam lobes. There are ways to get more clearance, but they tend to be a wee bit expensive...

--DD

Well I got up Saturday morning with visions of getting the lower end done. I laid out the galley plugs. These are 3/8" National pipe thread plugs recess for an allen wrench. The tap is naturally 3/8" NPT and the drill is 37/64". I did it on the drill press. It leaves a lot of stuff to clean. I also did a couple of the 1/4" galley plugs near the oil cooler cause they looked bad to me.

One goes here on the left half rear under the fly wheel.

2 go here on the right half front near the fitting for the oil filter

And 2 go on the right half rear under the flywheel.

This is what I use to seal them. It is my friend and I'll use it a lot. Locktite 518.

Next I chased the holes for the head studs with a little oil and cleaned it with brake cleaner and compressed air.

About this time I'm feeling pretty smug. Got a lot done the day before and I was cruising. Installed the first head stud.

Ok, so I'm confident, cocky maybe, full of myself for sure. I'm going to show you guys I can build a type IV. Well you know what's going to happen, a dose of modesty. 2nd stud goes in 3/4 of the way and no further. It won't come out either. I tighten the double nut and add a vice grip to the inner nut. I know that the Locktite 518 is setting so I'm working pretty fast. I bung up the nut and now I can't get them separated and I know I have to get the stud out, so I try heat. Anyway things spiral downhill and I realize I'm not making any progress so I get out the pipe wrench (18") Anyway, the stud breaks and I've spent most of the last 2 days getting it out.

So, Jake, now you can say "A type IV's worst enemy is a guy with a 13 mm wrench or a pipe wrench". Leason learned. Slow down and don't get overconfident.

Despite my worst efforts yesterday I was pretty good today and rigged up a nice jig for the drill press and managed to very carefully drill the sucker out. I used some small dental instruments to fold the old stud in . The treads look pretty good. I've got a lot of cleaning to do.

Here's the broken stud and some nuts I tried to weld to it. Nothing gives you a dose of modesty like getting caught in your dirty underwear in public.

Dave