@wonkipop that is great. Seems like compression and premium fuel is all you need. Would love to confirm the heads and cam are the same. But I would be very surprised if they were different. Given the objectives for this 914, it wouldn’t make sense to have that many varieties of engine parts.

using the parts list catalogue (i have both, the USA version and the european version) - pistons are different. parts manual lists cylinder and piston with all piston parts but not rods as a single item.
euro 1.8 = 021 198 075 D
usa 1.8 = 022 198 075 A

the same camshaft is called up in both parts manuals and is universal to all 4s including 1.7. although i am yet to understand what all the various listings mean when referring to +1 wheel etc. will have to ask mike. or maybe you know.
but really it appears to be just the pistons.

the heads are different.
two head part # listed for 1.8 L jet
022 107 111 A
022 101 351 CX
and for euro
021 101 351 S
PCG 101 351 SX
have not got to the bottom of that.

if vw/porsche had done L jet on euro 1.8s i think they might have developed a tiny bit more horsepower as this seemed to be the case with all the fuel injected engines versus carb versions for the lesser VW models. expense was a factor i guess in going back to carbs for the final small engine 914.

be a great idea to do a trick L jet. looks stock but can at least punch out 10 more hp behind the plain clothes disquise.
be quick enough to give a few folks in stock 2.0 L cars a run for the money - while you stand around and just shrug your shoulders. feed it a diet of 98 ron unleaded.

stick a nice flow exhaust on it to cap it all off.

@wonkipop
@van b
@jeffbowlsby
I think I read somewhere that there is supposed to be a little spring under the idle adjustment screw to keep tension on it. See pic. Don’t have one on mine, using Teflon tape.
True or not?
If so, is there a spec or part number?
Parts diagrams just show the whole throttle body, not the pieces.
Thanks!
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FYI, a 1974 2.0 in my mechanics shop. Owner has found a stamp for the tin numbers and experimented with technics to produce this amazing replica.
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far as i know no spring on 1.8 TB.
then again never had idle screw out to find out.
if is there is completely recessed behind screw in the bore and not visible.
but i don't believe there is.

might be on 1,7. looks different?

there are no exploded diagrams of TB - its a kind of non maintenance part unlike carbies.
it was relatively common to take carbies apart back in the day for cleaning.
you need the exploded diagram to put those back together.
suspect idea of EFI TB was no touch/no need to touch - hence no info.

a little bit of gasket sealant on threads would hold it steady if its worn.
the screw on mine is still reasonably firm in the thread.

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nice.
good reconstruction of the model german worker version.

you would need to have had 4 six packs the night before and do the stamping at 8.00am the next morning to get the superb artistry evident on the engine in mine.

its kind of fantastic to see restoration taken to that level.
most tinware restos i see take the finish to a level beyond anything the factory could be bothered with and unfortunately obliterate the drunken supermarket shelf numbers.

@wonkipop
@BeatNavy
Ok; that’s my guess, too. No height for one nor shelf inside for one. I’ve used a single wrap of Teflon tape - holds but still allows air bleed.
On to other tidbits!

@StarBear

i cracked the mystery of the 021 905 205 S distributor that superseded original distributors (022 905 205AA). you might remember you brought this up back when we started off on the EC-A/EC-B rabbit hole more than a year ago. we couldn't work out the why and the what of the S distributor replacement that was listed.


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the 021 905 205 S distributor was staring at me in the face.
its listed on the original CARB emissions approval documents for the VW 412 and VW 1,8 bus.

it is the original distributor for the 412. except its listed as an 022 on CARB docs and as an 021 in the 914 parts manual. i am pretty sure that all that means is that 022 = US 1.8 engine and 021 means european 1.8 AN engine. i believe USA 412 used same distributor as euro 412 and euro 914 1.8.

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and pics below show what it looks like.
VW 412 variant engine bay and sedan engine bay

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its a single vac cannister distributor.
vac advance only.
no retard.
412s did not use vac retard at idle to clean up to pass emissions.
they had exhaust gas recirculation. did their clean up at cruise not idle.

conclusion.
the replacement distributor would do away with vac retard at idle.
make the 914 run cooler at idle but dirtier.
looks like that was the official VW and Porsche response to NLA double vac can distributors that went out of production. use the vac advance only model to replace.

@Van B might have a view on this. ie distributor curve at back off on throttle.
but looks like VW just did away with the retard as a replacement part at some point in time - probably after their statutory obligations to emissions warranties and spare parts provisions ceased. 10 years after manufacture?

you can also see it in engine bay of 1,8 914 in porsche museum.
this is the replacement S distributor they offer.

here is the euro 1.8 with the 021 number of the S distributor.
be the same as the 022 version originally listed for USA 412s.



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Since the vacuum can has it’s own PN, I’m sure the assumption was that you’d use the appropriate can for the model.

yep, thats what i am thinking.

assuming you can get hold of one of these S distributors still?
and given your friends in houston texas at that great shop with the double vac cans.
and if you really wanted to get particular, search out a speed limiting rotor too.
(i think the texas guys them on their website).
you could get yourself a brand spanking new (almost) original set up distributor.

VW would definitely have had to have been doing it this way.
modular thinking?

meaning you could reproduce overheating the heads at idle in a traffic jam on a hot day in australia while you smiled at the smug do gooder in the tesla beside you knowing you were keeping your NOX down and your CO2 overproducing.

ENGINE BAY INSULATION PAD - 1974 1.8

another esoteric detail picked up sifting through research material for EC-A/B. @StarBear @Van B

appears to be two different types of engine bay pad -------maybe?
a grey one and a black one?

maybe @JeffBowlsby knows the answer to this one?
maybe its in Dr. Johnson's book but not sure, but not in edition i have.
he doesn't really do engine bay in detail in first ed on my shelf.

at first thought maybe the black finish pads i was seeing =
either owners repainting or refinishing the pad or
replacing the pad with an aftermarket pad of a different construction.

that is until i looked at photos sent by porsche museum of dr. marchart 74 1.8 in the collection. has a black insulation pad. maybe they restored this car?
but in most respects it looks very original to me. it might have been given a light touch refresh. ??? (don't have a month of production date on porsche collection car).

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i believed all the engine bay pads were the same. similar to mine.
grey coloured pad.
mine is 01/74 build car.

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more examples of the typical grey pad i thought was standard.
production dates scattered right through model year.

11-73

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12-73

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02-74

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06-74

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most of the 74s i have on file are grey.


----

however then there are these.
they look pretty much the same as porsche collection car.
black with a different kind of ripple like finish.

11-73

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12-73

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05-74

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05-74

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------

you can find examples of both types in 75 1.8s as well.
eg

11-74 grey

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11-74 black

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quick scout of 73 1.7s only turned up grey ones.

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??????????

Tough to say if mine was grey or faded black. But the back was a synthetic upholstery wool, heavy, and held moisture like a fat pig… as I learned.

Regardless, it went into the trash and I now have a modern closed cell foam piece that will go in.

Here’s mine. Sort of dark gray. Original. Haven’t ever taken it off so can’t tell if it’s the stuff Van noted.
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yes. same as mine. and most original cars.
i think they are meant to be grey.

even though all the black ones look to be the same material, which made me think it was some kind of factory variant, it is perhaps likely that they are replacements, using a common source for a replacement a few years back (or decades).

a lot of the black ones don't appear to have correct factory fixings whn you look close, including the one in the porsche museum.

i'm thinking the black ripple material versions might be what they made 911 engine pads out of a few years back?

interesting because that blue 1.8 that was on BAT a few months back claiming to be a 20K + miles car does not have a factory grey sound pad!

My firewall pad. 4/74 build date. Greyish now. But may have been black. I seem to be missing a clip to hold the center in place haha.

its just a big plastic snap plug same as the two on the sides.
sort of thing that eventually goes brittle and breaks and falls out.


thanks for the photo. general conclusion i think is only one type of original pad.
grey.

whatever the black ripple ones are is very likely replacement aftermarket jobs.
interesting that the car in the porsche museum has the black ripple version.
possibly indicates the car was restored to museum condition after dr. marchart donated it and is not so original.

certainly the much debated 20K mile 74 that was for sale on BAT earlier this year also may have been sporting a non original back pad amongst many other items spotted by folks on this website. not so original as advertised and claimed.

the white 1.8 in dr. 914s collection in atlanta looks to me to be about the most honest car around and a reliable example. its grey - like all of ours that are known from near new.

another one for engine tin stamp numbers.

sadly one of the hurricane flood damaged cars.
looked to be an ok car. not anymore. water up to the door handles.
late 74. going by the plastic expansion tank.

# = 607. i think. bottom of 7 is worn off.
if its an original car means california EC-A with console (oil temp sensor plate fitted to bottom of engine case). its got a console so its probably still relatively original.

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Unfortunate for that 1.8. With water up to the door handles, I bet all those electronics, FI brain, AFM are totaled (no longer usable). That little car is now a parts car.

another one for the research file.
for sale on BAT at moment.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-porsche-914-71/

Vin 4742909654. 184 cars before @StarBear 's car.
K 4829576. built the day before SB's car tues 27 Nov 73.

engine tin stamp # 605. found on other EC-Bs.
can just make out tune up sticker. two vac hose to distributor. = EC-B.

car has a console - looks original to the car (goes with AC).
has the oil temp sender plate on the engine case.

accords with pattern observed for engine stamp #s.
605 = car with console guage set up built at factory.

will add it to the data already compiled down the track.


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i think its a full sister car to yours @StarBear .
colour etc. (although i can't remember what your interior is steve, black or brown).

when you look at the BAT description it notes that it was originally ravenna green, now repainted to forest/zambesi green.

however...................
that statement appears to be made as a result of the karmann badge paint code which is L 65 K. that is the code for ravenna green.

but look at the photos carefully. the car was definitely forrest/zambesi green originally.
the giveway is the shot under the dash. classic factory paint finish there where the paint spray gives out and goes thin and you get primer showing. thats original factory finish in that area (sloppy like the factory). completely repainted restored cars do not replicate this.
there is no trace of ravenna paint spray anywhere there. cabin under carpet paint looks original to me. all f/z green. underneath photos show all paint on underside around bottom of trunk etc is f/z green and looks worn and original, not repaint.

one last clue. it has a vin sticker that is silver. the sticker is definitely original. you can see the repaint edges around it. every ravenna green car i have found has a black vin sticker. every forrest/zambesi green car has a silver vin sticker.

i think this car has a karmann plate that got stamped wrong at the factory.
they marked it L 65 K when they should have marked it L 64 K?
first time i have stumbled across a k plate that might have been marked wrong.
we have seen other instances noted of K tags in front trunk being numbered strangely.
but first time i have seen a paint code stamp that might have been wrong.

its not a bad looking car.
its had a lot of work done on it.

anyway its virtually the same as your car steve?
fuchs, console, EC-B #605 engine and in forrest green built the day before yours.

@wonkipop . Yep; a sister car! Mine has brown interior which imho goes better with the z Green.
Yeah, never seen a misstamped k plate though there was a discussion a few months ago about a possible misstamp. Will have to check it out further.
Thanks!

A few more notes:
Can’t see the k plate clearly. Looks like originally Ravenna then repainted a dark z Green, nearly Irish Green. Z Green has always been hard to get right - too blue, too yellow, too dark.
My appearance group has a black center bumper panel not chrome. Chrome I thought were only for 2.0 cars.
The luggage rack is useful but detracts from the car’s clean lines imho.
Original owner since 1980?? And this person only had it one year - to do paint etc and flip.

it was painted back in the 2000s or so by the look of the receipt dates?

the present owner is doing a flip, but did not do the majority of the work.
see the dates on all the receipts.

it has definitely not been repainted on the cabin interior.
see the under dash photo.
and that is not ravenna green in under there. its forrest/zambezi.

there is something funny about the k plate.
drunken germans on the production line?

it would be worth looking right over that car but its in colorado i think?

what is the black centre bumper panel you are referring to @StarBear ?
you are correct they did not get the exterior shade of the green right for f/z green on the exterior repaint.
its too dark.

i agree brown interior much better with green.
brown and green is the color of a tree (in a forrest unless its australia after a bushfire when the regrowth starts and then its vivid black and vivid green).
brown also goes well with phoenix red. "the jaffa".
mind you everyone used to think i'd bought the worst kind of 70s kitsch back in the 90s.
not now! taste + updating its a dangerous thing. always go for staying original.
i no longer get people say my car is kitsch and tasteless. its all - oh man that car is beautiful.

i had that experience today with one of my other cars.
i was driving the citroen xm to the workshop for my weekly break from my real job.
had to do a pickup of some LHM for the xm because its leaking hydraulic fluid out of its pressure pump. all citroens do. you live with it.
i pulled out of the side street to go down a major road.
two trendoid young blokes were about to cross the road.
i paused to let them cross.
they both said in unison, "beautiful car mate".
and then got down on their knees and did the worship routine in front of the car before getting up and completing crossing the road.
it was very funny. and beautifully un-woke.

yep - another ground zero modern fuel injection marsupial bites the dust.
its almost as bad as watching a koala die.

@wonkipop The section of bumper (front and rear) between the top strip and the bottom valence. See pics. Mine are black (some sort of soft black paint) not chrome. All the other 1.8 Appearance Group cars I’ve seen have black center pieces; all 2.0s have chrome. But then, as we know, there ARE exceptions to every configuration!
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yes - i see what you mean now. the actual bumper.

very interesting point you make.
about differences in appearance group spec for 1.8s and 2.0s.

FYI - the Appearance Group was the same for 1.8L and 2.0L cars but the AG items varied from model year to model year. Chrome bumpers were not included in the AG in 1974...they were an extra cost item.

@wonkipop our 74 1.8s never came with the timing plug with a vacuum fitting to allow air to be fed into the canister did they? There is a (US spec) 74 1.8 for sale in Austria on the 914World Facebook group page. The ECU is also not mounted behind the battery.

relax mate, that freak of nature is when they fitted an AC unit,
its an aftermarket thing,/dealer thing,
both shifting the ECU and sticking the hose into the timing plug.

don't worry, your dear old dad handed you down the real thing.
a dinosaur from the birth of modernism.,
keep it sweet.

f'n great when the voice of authority comes in and he is not wavering,

Ah, that kind of explains it. More than one person has tried to convince me that I had changed out my bumpers which I know I hadn’t. Mine is “standard” 1974 AG, while the chromes are “premium” 1974 AG.
Gheesh….

Was just curious. I didn't know they moved that much stuff around when they installed that garbage that robbed even more power from our already meek engines haha.

Random question regarding the following years of 914 (75-76) what did the 7th pin add to the L-Jet system? I was reading through wiring diagrams on Jeff's website but can't seem to track it down.

it concerned a revision to the wiring design of the incoming air temp sensor.

i'll see if i can dig it out.
there was a thread in the garage section where the AFM internals were discussed.
basically the temp sensor got its own distinct connection (7th pin).
i think maybe the location of the temp sensor was also revised in the afm unit itself as well but not entirely 100% on that.



EDIT.
thread here.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=360434&hl=

Thank you for the information. Interesting how things changed slightly.

@wonkipop
@Van B
@L-Jet914
Curious - while doing some post driving season cleanup I removed the rain tray for the first time ever. Noticed that the two rear outer screws are yellow zinc plated and slight longer than the other four bronze-like finish, slightly shorter screws. See pics below.
Any experience, history, or insight? To my belief these are original and, again, yet another quirk or something purposeful?
Of course, this follows my recent discovery (confirmed as correct) two different screws used to hold the speaker housings.

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well well well.

i'd have to get the screws out to see how long they are.
but ...... i may not have your set up. there are a couple of bolts involved in mine.

whats on mine is 3 phillips head screws across the rear edge of the rain tray (trunk lid edge).
they could be different lengths but i would have to take them out to find out.
but all three look the same in terms of diam.

across the long side towards cabin there is 2 bolts (sides) and 1 screw (centre). the 2 bolts are in circular recessed depression, the bolts look to me to be identical to the same small bolts that hold on the rain funnels. M6 bolts. very small. accessible by a socket. the screw could be a different size to the three along the rear edge. i'd have to get it out to look. it looks like it is smaller. to my eye, smaller diam head.
EDIT - CORRECTION - i just went and had a proper look with the torch, it was a bit dark out in the garage earlier. its three identical little bolts across the back. all the same.
M6. not a screw in centre.

the finish on them all is silver. any bronze finish long gone and oxidised away.

i've never changed them in 33 years. but i guess they could have been changed by first owner or original service mechanics. now that i look at it the bolts seems out of place even though same as funnel bolts. why wouldn't they all be screws. but i dunno.
i've never touched them.

being curious i had a look at the PET.
its got the info for only the early rain tray!
- they don't appear to have updated the PET.
it lists only two screws. 2 of AM6x20.

so i had a look at the factory workshop manual. it does not appear to have the later rain tray either. and contrary to PET it lists 1 AM6x15 and 1 AM6 x20. the longer screw appeared to hold the funny little rubber handle that was fitted left hand side of the early type rain tray. the back of the early type rain tray seemed to hang on three strap like things with whats called clamping discs. having never seen an early rain tray or early car up close i'm not really clear on it.

but anyway none of my material has anything on our later rain trays.

@wonkipop Interesting! I couldn’t find anything either. All mine are screws with the same Phillips head but different finishes and lengths. No bolts, except as you noted those holding the rain funnels.
Let’s see if any other 1.8 gurus have info. Probably either keep mine the way they are or replate the five that are bronze finished ( but only on the heads). Might (?) I have painted them in the past? The 80s were a bit of a blur…..

had a scout through files from EC-A EC-B research.
this is best i could do for a photo.
its from a car that was sold on BAT about 6 months back that was down, but pretty unmolested. had all sorts of original stuff on it including recall sticker. reliable i would say.

you can only see the screw retaining rain tray on truck lid edge.
mine look similar to this. possibly were cadmium once but its oxidised.

the bolt i am talking about being like rain funnel bolts is in the rear recess either side.
where arrow points.

nothing anywhere in my files had a clear view of it on any cars. its just recessed far enough it never appears visible on any photos.
have drawn a blank there.

logic tells me they should all be screws.
but then again....we sure have found plenty of odd bits of logic when it comes to the 1.8s. anyway i wouldn't swear on mine.

interesting prompt from you. never taken a close look at those rain tray fixings before.



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PS @StarBear

if you really wanted to know, @dr914@autoatlanta.com has his very original white 1.8 in his collection.
that would be guaranteed unmolested. he'd be able to take a look and tell you whats there for sure.

then we'd both know.


EDIT
i went on auto atlanta website.
this is their kit for fixing late rain tray.

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now this does not entirely make sense to me either.
its only got 5 screws. you can see varying sizes.

i've definitely got 6 fixing points on mine.
three across cabin side (which have the M6 boltss).
three across the trunk side (which have M6 phillips head screws).



dunno. need a certifiable reference vehicle.
that white one in his collection would probably be pretty trustworthy.

@wonkipop Yep, that kit makes no sense.
As for that white 1.8 lead, do you mean George at AA, who has a different Dr914 handle? Didn’t see it on @dr914 member summary.

yes george at AA

@StarBear

i found this on a thread here.

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http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=305228


i would say the two longer screws with washers and 1 shorter screw match mine across the trunk side. i can still see the rubber spacers in mine. they are a bit perished.

and i'm going to guess that the 3 M6 bolts on mine across the cabin side probably are not original. someone maybe took the rain tray off before i got the car 33 years ago and maybe lost the screws?

or heinrich ran out of screws at the karmann factory 50 years ago and walked across to the funnel box and borrowed some of those M6 bolts before he knocked off for a pilsner.

@wonkipop Now those two longer screws make sense. I think I have an extra pair of those valence spacers; mine are gone.

Or, Heinrich caught a glimpse of Greta bending over to grab a rocker panel and got way distracted and dizzy!

I checked and believe the comment in the thread that these spacers are different than the rocker spacers. The bolts are much thicker so the holes in my pair of spare rocker panel spacers were much too small. Seems right as the rocker panel bolts are much thinner. Can’t speak to the valence spacers as I’ve not compared to them.
No problem, though. Worked with my assistant Makita and got the job done!

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I would have to look at my screws now. I think all of my screws are silver in color and if they had any yellow zinc plating, it's all gone now. I have since removed my rain tray as I no longer drive the vehicle during the rainy months (or lack of rain here haha). I know for a fact that none of the spacers are present anymore.

Got new short yellow zinc ones at zcar site (240/260/280 Z).. if you need the exact site just let me know. They each come with the washer and a lock washer. Yay

Fellas!

NOS TTS for our cars on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255490292323

I bought one so… three left!