Fresh oil (lucus 30w break in oil) and now hit the 100 mile mark.
I am waiting now on the Redline jet-pac for mains and air correction jets. It will be here for the weekend and a few jets from Cb that are not in the kit.


Head temps are under control (WOOHOO!)stable just under 350*f. It only breaks the 350 mark on spirted pulls and come right back down. Cruise is 325 -340*f
DID I say is 95-98 degrees here in NC wi h HIGH humidity
I will share the carb jet specs once I get the lean hole tuned out.

the Innovate LM1 is working fine. but NOT the Data Logging

Any one have the OLD Innovate Logworks 1 or 2 cd? The Log works 3 Crash on use with the Download of the log files
data logging would make this thing AWESOME

NOTE: Did any one tell you the thinner 30W oil will cool better than the thick 20W50?

I am running head temps around 230 on a hot day in NJ. Oil pressure is 78 lbs at start up and 38lbs at 3000 rpm hot. Running biral cylinders and Driven 15w50 oil. 30w may cool better, but what about oil pressure?

for those not familiar with CHT ..this from Raby QA
What is a normal temperature range for a Type IV engine?
Generally head temps are desirable below 365°F. I like heads to run 265°F-365°F as a norm. 375°F -395°F is getting warm, with 405°F being too hot for any sustained period of time. Oil temps should run 180°F-220°F, as an optimum. 225°F-235°F is warm and 235°F+ is hot and should

WRT the Mallory module. I'd suggest not only adding the Mallory Circuit Guard, but also a ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the module. It was only after I had both that I stopped losing modules.

I second the Mallory circuit guard and ballast resistor.

Head temps or oil temps? Those would be cold for head temps. I usually don't consider my engine warmed up till the heads are reading 270, and operating temps are 280-360.

For my engines - 350 is pulling a hill at speed on the freeway on a nice day. 360 is doing that on a warm day. 370 is doing that at close to 90mph with temps in the 90s and the hill is long.

Zach

This about where I am at too for CHT
My oil is 210 to 220 about straight up and down

This sounds great for OIL temps. Perfect

Are you running a CD ignition like MSD or HiFIre?
The unilite is only triggering an electronic circuit and is low voltage and low amp. I cooked mine by pulling Ignition wires and hit it with 40K volts. Spike perfection is always a good thing but that is another 90 bucks? I think a spare module can had for that... will see how this one goes and decide if I take out insurance for the Mallory Circuit Guard
Ballast is not needed with the Hifire, or that’s what there paper work shows

Tuning the 40 IDF 32 vents. Still running a bit rich but my temps numbers are very good at 335-365 and peaks to about 375

I did have to drill some jets to get in between numbers
Base line timing @11* and all in at 3000 for total 29*
accelerator pump rod at 6.5 mm
idle jets 57
f11
main jets 137
corrections 210
wot is still 12.2 to 12.6
next try will be:
135 mains and 190-200 air correction

rich hole air 3200 to 3400 still in transition circuit and mains coming on

She will pull STONG if you let her...

Lm1 not logging?
Can you describe the hardware?
Is there a plug? Are you using a laptop?

Rich

I run a Mallory 6AL with the Mallory Unilite distributor on my car.

Seems to be a known issue with the logworks 3 application
There is a function to download the saved log files from the old lm1 recorder/display

This worked on the older logworks 1 and logworks 2 running xp or vista
the newer software crash on download of the log files and innovate did not fix in the newer version logworks 3
I can get an old PC but not finding the install cd / download for the older log woks app/interface

While waiting on a 57 idle jet, I pulled a plug to check how its burning...

...it has a nice tan!
Click to view attachment

What are you Mallory guys using for spark plug wires?

I have the red 8mm Malory plug wires, but they will attach to the VW OE distributor cap too

Today I installed an Older version of the Logworks3 software on a VM for XP (vm ware studio.) The old version was found in Way back machine for 2012 and is WORKING. It DID Not work on Windows 10. I was able to get 21 logs from the device and will clear the old (PO) logs and take my first recording of the AFR and with a bit of luck an RPM cannel too. I had to rig my inductive pick up to a 3.5 mm Audio jack input to the PRM adapter and analog adapter cable

Progress on the data logger and 57 idle jets are on the way. Hand drilled .60 were too BIG and .55 had a big lean hole in the transition at 3-4 k rpm Pop. Pop Pop and 16:1. I open my idle mixture screws another 1/2 turn and the Pops are gone. running pretty good and hands off the tip in pretty good.
Mains are reading 12:5 t o 12.8(1.30) for WOT and leaning out a little more as redline approaches . Trying real hard NOT to see REDLINE. But pulling a quite bit Higher and longer Into the upper rpm ranges 6K +. :-).Not just making more noise, but still pulling harder as it revs....(on the BUTT DYNO). Double valves springs will handle this No Problem

200 + miles on break in and leaks have been found and fixes

FWIW: I had to clean my speedo head of grease from the cable lube years back that made its way up to the head and the Odometer gear was slipping. ALL set and working very well and smooth again. That junked things up pretty bad and the needle/pointer was not returning any more

My first log....The last downward slope is the mains coming in at 35- 4500 rpm and look good at 13.2:1 and richening slightly (1.30)

I think I see the lean pop pop pop at 2-5 sec. (55 idle jets)

Here is an odd observation

While warming up the first light throttle up into the transitions feels smooth and no pops. try it again in a few seconds or another gear and is lean

Some times the ratios feel look good some times they are lean
I am going to have a helper watch my fuel pressure gauge on some next recordings

I did read somewhere that the fuel enricher (choke) gave some users problems rich or lean (not sure) that are not hooked up but the valves are in place.. I have seen dummy valves tap took off the ports (X4) with no holes.. 15-17 bucks each

I have richened the mains to overlap over the transition circuit and felt a little sluggish rich but not great numbers on the mains and WOT. But no lean hole or pop pop pop. I feel I’m on track with the correct 130 to 135 mains and richening the ideas to .57.
.60 Idle jet was very rich and 55 too lean
Fun to see how thy work


MORE LOGGING FUN TO COME

FIRST imported graph after a little smoothing
My RPM was off but working so I need to rewire my adapter on the 3.5 mm audio jack
Click to view attachment

I did get the RPM input working for the inductive 3.5 jack

Set the range for 0-1 volt and the rpm seem to be spot on now

woo hooo
another small win

FWIW:
It was 2 years ago today I was driving the gen 2 2056 for it short lived 50 miles....

Good job getting this sorted Robert.

Is the left margin AFR?

If so most of that graph looks dangerously lean IMO. Anything over 16 is "lean burn" In my book and above 20 should be avoided at all costs on everything.

18:1 appears to be the limit on a water-pumper set up for lean burn on gasoline.

During acceleration I want to be as lean as cylinder head temps can take it but below 13.5. Maybe richer on an air-cooled.

Only way to consistently run above 15:1 on gasoline is to have an engine designed for lean burn and a seriously active self-adjusting FI system with knock sensors.
Modern OBD2 systems work fine with lean burn but I'm not aware of a lean burn set up on an air-cooled motor.
Maybe the very last air-cooled 911s had it. They also had twin plugs and a bunch of modern technology that the T4 did not.

I would expect that would run HOT and tend to detonate. It would be very sensitive to timing adjustments.

The number on the right margin for AFR is what I believe the average for the graph and shows 17.83.

IMO, long term those AFR readings are the DEATH of new motor.

If that left margin is not AFR then the above may not apply.

I'd also check and re-calibrate the wideband as your plug does NOT look 17.8/1.
Plug looks great, maybe a tiny bit rich, IMO.
An 18:1 plug would look "glowing" white and have little white deposits on the ground strap.

Edit: Can someone tell me why the image didn't post over with the quote. I wish it had as it makes more sense if the image was with the quote.

Rich plug soot is due to idle screw out to give more air fuel to richen the lean hole at top of transition
The tan is the wot and the 13.2:1 as its leaning out a the end with the 130 mains with f11 emulsion tubes

Agreed the 55 idle jets are way too lean
I will post the graph of the new .57 idles some time tomorrow

The right margin is the key and the curser value under the mouse

The last two posts don't really make sense to me regarding the graph.

The left margin appears to be showing LM1 (sensor) from below 10 afr to above 22 afr on the vertical axis.

The purple line appears to start at 12/1 and rapidly rise to 22/1 never dropping below 17/1 until 8.25 occurs on the horizontal axis.

I'm guessing the horizontal axis is time in seconds.

Am I correct in the way this graph is set up?

I guess I'm slow as I have no idea what "The right margin is the key and the curser value under the mouse" means.

Once again, I didn't get the graph. It showed up on "preview post" just fine.
Guess I am slow...

new jets for idle .57 came in today..still too rich so back to the .55 and a data log snapshot recording

40 pdf
32 vents
55 idles
210 air
1.400 mains

29* timing at 3000

next move it to 220 air

single pull to 3600 rpm

Note the dip rich at the end is the main jets 140(rich) coming in.This was to show where the lean hole is and will continue to add air correction till the lean spike is gone...

Click to view attachment

Too rich?
Are these WOT pulls?
Are these pulls? I mean are these under load?

all data logs are while driving
Saving WOT for last but I am feeling the main pull hard at 3500 rpmClick to view attachment

I will add a degree or 2 (+-) now that it is no longer running rich and see how the temps and performance base line again...

more fun with Logworks 3



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2f9yGM7hhY


https://youtu.be/_2f9yGM7hhY

That is pretty cool sir

Is the blue line the old and the dark line the new? I think you might be reversing the terms... It was running lean, if I am reading that correctly. Now it looks really nice, and rich enough not to blow your engine up

I'm still sitting here trying to figure out what is on the graphs.

On the last graph with the purple and Black lines...
Is Purple AFR and Black RPM?
Or is purple and old run and black a new run?

You need to have a line on the chart that shows RPM somewhere. It will help a LOT with tuning.

Zach

Is Purple AFR and Black RPM
0-7000 rpm Black
0-22 afr Purple
all the runs or recording sessions are in its own tab

This shows a gradual pull ”driving” from first gear and 1000 rpm to about 3500 rpm for a pull on the main jets for about 5 sec 1/2 t o 3/4 throttle pedal .

I thinks this is followed by a shift and cruse in second for a time at about 2500 rpm

Followed by a shift in 3rd at 2000 rpm cruise ( 1 min mark) and gently drive away...

( I think, I need take better notes..it may be just a single pull and a gradual cool down and no shifts just a first gear pull?

emerygt350
yeah its looking pretty good

I have been playing with a PMO fuel regulator. The gauge says 3 psi and stays steady, but the feel you get is it fine driving and the hand off from transition to main is smooth and the next time time I get into it it seconds later feels like there is not enough fuel. if I can not get this sorted, I will put the CB/Tangerine 3 psi pump back on with no fuel return

no work last night for bowling/drinking beer.. High game of 223 and 605 scratch series (WOOHOO)
Thinking, reviewing data logs and clearing my head...rain this week end, I may run a quick errand and get some more test data

The dash board and the graph are the same session

WOT pull with 12* init and 31* total time
Click to view attachment

You look way lean in that WOT pull.

Tuning for Stoich is going to give you higher head temps. AFR of 11 or 12 when stomping on it will burn a little more fuel but will cool the heads and maybe net you a tad more power. It seems like you are maybe tuning for lean burn but I don't know if that's a great idea with carbs on an aircooled.
Zach

I would be super scared of those values, particularly down low too. Up high it can get wonky but I would be shooting for nothing ever touching even 13 during a WOT pull. Between 3 and 4k is when these engines are really building their power and you are running super lean at that point.

Only time I want to be at 14.7 is cruising under very light load.

FWIW< I’m trying to get the lean spots out of there..

13.1 across the board and maybe touch 13.9 /14 on light cruise

Now that I understand the log, that is pretty cool. Good thing you got it working again. Is this Wot pull in first or 4th? Or are you shifting?

I think it might be best to keep it in a gear like 3 or 4 and go from 1k to 5k

This was a first gear pull and if I recall, I had to let up at 4-6 sec as other car was impeding my smooth pull on the road

When I am tuning I'll usually do my WOT pulls in second or third. First is a weak gear in a 901 box.

Also make sure the engine is fully warmed up before getting tune data. Especially with carbs you are going to get garbage data when everything is cold. Not saying that's what happened here - you may have been fully warmed up. But if you were not - its something to keep in mind.

Zach

Zack
thanks for the tip...ill try another if the weather hold out today

a little too big on the main at 1.450 and 220 air

Click to view attachment

another pull in 3rdClick to view attachment

11 afr is too rich for me...

6k pull. This looks pretty good

Those look a lot better. Its better to be on the rich side then the lean side when you stomp on it.

Get a log just driving around how you usually drive the car and compare WOT to normal driving. Do a log just cruising with low load.

Zach