The windage tray had the same old seals, so a new set glued in place and ready for installation along with the cam bearings. USING A DOUBLE THRUST and setting the endplay at .002 inch flipping the bearing without out the tab 180 degree got my play set about right. The 2 shells work working against each other and canceling out he endplay important to test the play on both half and Assembly to ensure you have it just right

Click to view attachment

vintage bearings too
Click to view attachment

here is a video of the camshaft end play


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpUDEaOWWa4

Measured the case, bearings and crank journals as well as plastic gage the split shells.
Case is sealed and about ready to jugs and slugs...Click to view attachment

Can't wait for this to be fired-up.

I did pin the shaft on the T4 oil pump. Drilled and milled a 3/32 hole in the housing and when I hit the hardened shaft I switched to an end mill. That shaft is hard so it just left a small mark. NO problem. A aluminum punch and hammer the shaft press out EZ. To EZ! I would pin every one of these moving forward .
With the mark I was able to grind a slot in the shaft for the pin to fit about an 1/8 inch deep with a cut off wheel. Then tapped the hole for a set screw-in the housing. Then cleaned and red lock tight the shaft back into place so the slot is seen in the hole. Intall the pin to full engagement with the new slot with more red lock tight. Installed the set screws so the pin would not come out (more red lock tight) and staked the set screw in place.
I feel confident that this pin and set screw are now part of the housing and will not come out.

After thinking about the for a moment I should have just welded the pin in place like a short barreled muzzle brake...good enough for the ATF as permanent!

Sorry no pics or vid

YEP, Getting optimistic again. With dreams of Octeenerfest, driving on the Dragon and LARGE dyno numbers! This is a dream right?

Playing with a thermal dispersion paint from Cerakote (transfer Gray)

Here:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=366063Click to view attachment

@rfinegan

watching and learning from your experiences, Hope to see you at Okteenerfest for sure!!

at some point i need to reassemble my OEM motor that dropped the valve seat a couple years ago, and i am trying to decide if i can do that myself, i didnt crack the case i justhave to put the newly rebuilt original heads back on it and wonder if i need to lap the head if i keep the old cylinders and pistons in place, i assume i should. anyway we should get the 914s from SC and NC together and do a engine build how-to clinic!

Good luck going forward 3x is a charm right??

headsClick to view attachment

Lapping the heads can only be a good thing, and you get a chance to look at the cylinder bores and pistons/rings too. AS well as resealing the case to cylinders while you are at it....top end work should go pretty EZ for people with good repair skills, even if they are new for type 4 work...Just need simple hand tools and a torque wrench and some hi temp Curel T(green) or a small dab aviation sealer ...What could go wrong....


-Cheers.

and thanks for the support

plenty!

i have new rings, and was planning on doing just what you suggested, reseal the cylinder to case , do new rings, and reassemble. when i removed the heads due to the loose dropped #3 valve seat, i found it had been rebuilt not long before i got the car i think but whoever did that used gasket at the cylinder/head interface i will not be doing that. once lapped i will verify clearances, i am reinstalling the original 2.0 heads that were rebuilt with new seats, new valves new guides springs etc etc. . not sure when it will go back in , i like my 2.1 motor i am running now.

I updated ALL my videos on You tube for Robert Finegan to public...so you can take a look with out all my descriptions and chat...

@robertfinegan4491
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6Ol_gbz9D5RPLqpYPD2qCg


https://www.youtube.com/@robertfinegan4491

Tonight I cleaned the carbon off the piston tops and got everything ready to install

Piston rings lubed and skirts and pins and started assemble .
Problem:
The new engine yoke did not have enough room to install piston pin # 3. #4 is installed first on the right side because the oil cooler is there and the pin is installed from the rear/center of the motor. When I got to # 3 the pin would not clear the engine yoke and I had to set it down and remove the yoke and install the pin/cylinder assembly. 10 extra minutes so not be deal .

Starting to look pretty good....
Click to view attachment

anotherClick to view attachment

one moreClick to view attachment

Looking really good, Robert!

Thanks Rob, Thanks for positive feed back, it is greatly apreciated.



-Robert

Thank you for doing such a great job documenting best practices.
Wonderful way to help the rest of us.

TLDR,

Did you use that paint on everything?
Cool.

I request a 1/2 year update on the paint please.

I started with the heads or the benefits of the thermal dispersion transfer, then coated the cylinders for the same benefit. The last 1/3 of the sampler from Cerakote went on the case. I did the fins on the case bottom and the rest was for appearance. It should 2 tone nice with Satin Black tins.


If my track recorder stays intact, it should look EXACTLY link the pics I posted above...

All kidding aside, Ill post some 6 month / 1 year pics as needed

plan for the weekend...
1)Home made Jet Doctors for IDF 44
2)Torque heads and head tins
3)Paint Push rod tubes satin Black and install lifters
4)Valve train and valve lash/covers
5)Time permitting..stub pipe installation

Continue R/D: pressurized engine priming tool/system

...lots more to come

Darn, the engine yoke got me again. its touching the # 3 cylinder. I need to pull it off again and make a slight grinder modification to the mount so it now longer touches and I can torque the head.
However i did make good progress and I have another day to get back on track... I get a pic later to show how I did this.

until then..Click to view attachment

DIY: Jet Doctor for idle jets or just by them from CB

I picked up some 3mm or 1/8 brass tubing from the hobby store and I did some calculations of how high to make them.. it turns you the main jet stack on my carbs are 1.950 from the bottom of the top plate..( I guess 2 inch would have been fine) but mine are he SAME height as the main stacks. IF its good enough for Weber it should work fine for the Doctor...

MY old Italian Webers had short stacks even with the top plate..I need to change the too, I guess?

1) I cut 4 piece of tubing to the correct length (1.950 inch)
2) I flared the end of the base wit ha automatic center punch to gain a snug fit in the top of the carb vent hole
3) Add some 515 gasket sealer to the hole
4) Tap and set the brass tube it to top plate till flush on the bottom of the casting
5) Repeat for the there 3 vent holes

All that is left is a few holes in the gasket and to drill 4 holes into you air cleaner base

-Cheers


Click to view attachment


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boURpJiAvZk

oil primer in progress...

Click to view attachment

engine update..stubs and tins next...
Click to view attachment

engine yoke mod...#3 cylinder
Click to view attachment

cylinders hitting the the yoke frameClick to view attachment

Today I installer the blower housing, blower front tins alternator, belt left tin, intake...
Wanting for a Distributor drive spring before installing the right tin (tues)Click to view attachment

another pic of the bottomClick to view attachment

Installed and torqued Clutch, Pressure plate and front Blower with blue loc tight and Alternator a with belt with front tins

Today I recondition push rod tubs to remove dents and reduce diameter for clears to stub pipes

tightest clearance is #1 and #4 exhaust to stub and then 2/3 to exhaust


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx6OP91X9rU

added right tins and distributor
Click to view attachment

looking great,thermostat and cable fitted and adjusted...hope so .
Is that and oil pre-prime system you have made ?,good idea for a first start if so.
Not too far away,good luck.

I may have to try to fit an aftermarket thermostat. The header is too close for the stock on to fit. I hate the new one fails in the on position though!

Yeah getting close. about time to remove the OE engine and test the oil prime and final valve lash.

Make sure you put a grommet in that hole that the alternator harness passes thru !!

Good eye. Not wanting to pull the alternator/cover I have been putting this off. I decided now with your comment, to pull the terminals our of the connector and install a seal/bushing. It was not as painful as it sounds with a terminal too. Seal from Hot air and no chances of cutting or grounding my charging system.

This week starts the removal of the OE and trans. wit the Lift plate from Tangerine and fast jacks this will go quick. Done wit the test runs of my make shift engine oil primming system. With a regulator I can control the oil pressure and feed rate,. Negative: If I run the tool empty I get oil foam and air. SO small batches of prime 30 weight break in oil.Click to view attachment

Add a PMO fuel regulator (purchased in the classified here) I made a mount to the case and insulated with silicone 1/8 washers (think GM HEI button) so heat should not be much more that engine compartment ambient temps. COOL recirculating fuel! Woo hoo. SS lines to the carbs carbs and once I'm up and running will look at the Tangerine SS tunnel lines
Waiting on some 6an to 8mm fuel parts..later today

Cheers

Click to view attachment

install pics..all done under the car.
including Wide band O2 and tangerine Evo muffler
Click to view attachment

another view of the Tangerine clutch mount Gen 1

no more melted cables

Click to view attachment

Lets see how I did...

I add 5 gals of 93 octane to the tank after draining it with the stock fuel pump. this worked great wit the ground wire on the relay to run the pump when the key is one.(carbs)

Topped of the oil to full 4 qt with tuna can

Key on and checked new plumbing for NO leaks and 3 psi

SO FAR SO GOOD

Lets see if it will light off

2 pumps on the accelerator to prime pumps and got shots of fuel

KEY on and Contact....crank..crank crank...no fire

again Crank crank crank crank..no fire

pump pump crank crank crank...she is not going to go!

A quick check I found NO SPARK for my Malory

SO...

I think I spiked the module doing power balance test by pulling plug wires last time it was running.
I had a no start and then it cooled and ran again..no nothing

I hooked up a 009 points distributor and a ground wire...

Gave it a spin...and ZAP, ZAP, ZAP!

Pulled the Mallory and borrowed the 123 from the Djet

Dropped it in without changing the last clamp position (ran at that setting)added the power connections and plug wires etc..

Pull the coil wire and add the stark tester

Key on"Crank crank crank = ZAP ZAP ZAP

HERE WE GO AGAIN:

2 squirts on the accelerator

Crank, cra.... VAROOM!

up to 2,000 PRM and synced the low Slave carb.... 15 Cam burn just to keep the oil pumping

60 psi

running good for 5 mins
set base timing to 10 degrees and continued the BURN for total of 15 min

Idle at 1000 and oil at 20 psi (HOT) well pretty warm

AFR 12.1 at 2K rpm may be a little rich but Looking good

Head temp at 300-340
Will tune a little more Sunday and swap out the start up oil and reset the valve lash to about .001

HERE is the proof: I did set the valve lash a little loose @ .003 so a little noisy


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBEDdvhwzNU

Nice job, Robert!

Excellent!!

Congratulations! She sounds good.

Sounds healthy!
Pretty balanced for a first start as well.

I'm a huge believer in running it under load (driving) for the first couple of hours.

Medium acceleration but using compression braking whenever possible.

Trying to achieve the highest manifold vacuum I can (engine decel).

I'd want to drive it this afternoon!

I'm happy for you and a bit envious...

My 2055 is a few months away.

You might need those smaller idle jets you have!

For no load 2K I'd want to hit north of 13.5 and south of 14.5

I add a new Malory Module to my ignition system Hi fire and I have to say ...AWESOME
Dropped it right in at my OLD setting. One tap on the accelerator COLD START...Vroooooom

NO long crank or stumble. Great idle too.

Getting Better...

YES I will get the base timing set (10-12*)and limit the advance to a bout 16 degrees shooting for the DESIRED 28 total

It should be cool this weekend. 75 in the morning, so I l drive around on the idle Circuit and gets som Wide band numbers

30 min or so run time so I better get some Fresh oil in it too...LUCUS 30 weight break in oil

On a first run in like you just did I clean the piss out of my drain pan, drain oil into it.

Let it sit for hours, poor the top 95% off and "pan for gold" with the remains.

Shine a flashlight through it....

Any bad glitter and I'm pulling it back out...

It's so much cheaper to fix if you catch badness early.

I wouldn't do an oil analysis until after I had 10K on the new motor.