Next goes the smaller roller bearing and a locking plate. The tab goes in the slot pointed down to go under the bearing.

Tighten the nut down to 80 lbs and bend up 1 edge of the locking plate and the drive shaft is ready. I still haven't caught my mistake. Anyone that has been in one of these boxes should see it now.

4th and 5th gear are in the wrong order?
How did you torque that nut to 80ft/lbs.?

You are RiIGHT. It won't go in the intermediate plate like that. I guessed. I did mark the shaft and nut so I got them to the same spot.

Ah, the intermediate plate. I installed the bearing races (the whole bearing for the pinion shaft).

Next comes the spacer that goes under the bearing retainer plate.

The bearing retainer plate

Here is another use for the CV joint tool. 8mm 12point.

Torqued to 15-17 lb ft. I had a heck of a time figuring out how to steady the intermediate plate while I torqued it. I finally put a couple of 8mm bolts in my vice and put the plate over them.

I'm ready to drive the race down the pinion shaft

Pinion and drive shafts installed in the intermediate plate and ready for 1st gear.

1st gear on the drive shaft is the gear then a washer, a castle nut secured with a roll pin. The flat surface of the gear faces away from the bearing.

The pinion shaft ready for the 1st gear assembly

A washer goes on the pinion shaft first

Just like the other gear assemblies a race goes on the shaft first

Then the roller bearing

Then the 1st gear assembly. Sorry about the fuzzy picture

Next is the slider hub.

I got this slider used and it is in really good shape. The teeth are sharp and there is ver little wear

The slider goes on with the teeth facing the first gear assembly. The bolt holds it all together.

Wow!

Move this to classics once this is done.

Shift forks, shafts and detents. I really like this part. People sure are clever.

I borrowed this pic from Royce. Thanks man. It shows the parts. The shift forks are not shown.

A couple of things. The springs and balls on the right fit into a tube in the intermediate plate and you see the plug on the bottom of the transmission. They serve to center the transmission in neutral. They also prevent selection of 2 gears at once. You feel these somewhat (along with the compression of the syncro rings) when the shifter passes through neutral and especially when you select reverse. It works most of the time. I used a little all purpose grease to coat the parts as they can escape through the shift rod holes in the intermediate plate (and grease is usually good). I spent a while looking for 1 of the balls on the garage floor.

The notch in the picture positions one of the shift forks. An 8mm bolt passes through the shift fork and engages this notch then threds into the other side of the shift fork. This notch is larger than the 8nn bolt so it allows the shift forlk some adjustment on the shaft. Tightening the bolt then clampd the shift fork to the shift rod.

Ah, fork it, I can't explain it. Look at the pictures

Start with the 4th, 5th shift fork on it's slider and then add parts.

Next I inserted it's shift rod.

Then I added the ball that is part of the detent in the tube.

All these balls, springs, and rods go in this hole in the intermediate plate. Beware the balls can come out of the holes that the shift rods pass through. All purpose grease is tacky enough to slow them down. I had to get down on my hands and knees to find one of the little suckers.

Next comes a spring with the little rod inside it. Again grease.

as joe sharp said yesterday - the ball and stick game.

AA

Then comes the second ball. You shoud be able to see it in the tube if you look through the hole for the 2nd, 3rd shift rod in the intermediate plate. Did I say I like grease?

Next I put the 2nd, 3rd shift fork on its' slider

Next, 2nd, 3rd shift rod! These bolts are only hand tight right now cause I'll adjust them later.

Next is the little peanut thing in the tube in the intermediate plate.

After you shove it in you should be able to just barely see it through the 1st, reverse shift rod hole in the intermediate plate.

Next the 1st, reverse shift rod and shift fork go on with the bolt finger tight.

The 3rd and final ball goes in the tube

Then the stiffer of the 2 springs

You can see the last spring in the hole

The plug finishes it up

Done with that

Very cool stuff

This is a side shifter!!!

Adjusting the shift forks for 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th can be done now. The balls and springs will hold the shift rods in neutral and the alignment jig supports the free ends of the rods. You should be able to see all of the notches in the shift rods lined up. Like this

The jig holds everything nice and steady

Tighten the bolts when the sliders for 2nd, 3rd and 4th, 5th are centered between their respective gears. Here is what 4th, 5th should look like.

Haynes manual calls for 1mm clearance between the back of the slider and reverse on its' shaft. Once I got that I tightened down the bolt on the shirt fork then rechecked it.

The gear stack is now ready except for torquing the 30 mm bolt on 1st gear.

The paper shims for the intermediate plate were not colored and the replacements in the gasket kit are not either so I had to measure them. I chose a none compressed area in each. There are passages or something where the castings are not solid and the sealing surfaces do not compress the shims. The old ones added up to .015".

One old shim measured .009"

The other old one was .006

It just so happens that there was an .009" in the gasket kit.

And lucky me an .006. I guess I'm good to go.