Yes that be them, if you can weld aluminum and have the right diameter stock you could do it yourself. They are also flanged at the ends.



Those are the OEM Subaru hoses which I bought, the lower one can be used as is, the upper needs to be cut short to remove a 90degree bend.

Hope that helps!

Once I put in a larger fuse for the fuel pump and connected the fuel lines up the right way we were in business!!!!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUDZEHq6mwA


Man that was quite the rush, daughter even got some fuel spray over her when I disconnected the fuel line and not even phased.

Don't examine the intercooler plumbing too closely, that definitely needs work.

Been tidying up odds and ends and getting more familiar with the engine, after the start last week the fittings on the gas tank started to leak, I knew those old alloy nuts were border line and after I tried to tighten one more time one of them was too far gone. Was tempted with the AN fitting adapters from the VW site but in the end just ordered new nuts from AutoAtlanta. Fitted and now no more gas smell in the garage.

ECU was also throwing some codes, had a couple of the AVCS wires wrong and once that was corrected I am just left with the Rear O2 sensor code which as I do not have one yet seems reasonable.

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Finally got the cooling system bled, that was a royal pain, I raised the rear of the car and the final tip which was on this sight to fill from the hose (see pic below) on the throttle body got it done.

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Plugged the purge line on the intake, this corrected an erratic idle when it was open.

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Here you can see oil pressure when cold, low fuel level is a tad bright ....

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And here are readings of gauges when warm, engine temp stays in 85-90 range (now system is air free ...).

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I still have the charge lamp lit, pretty sure this is because I have an LED not a bulb, need to fix that.

Also need to plumb in wastegate solenoid, weld an O2 bung in the exhaust and get that intake plumbing sorted.

Crap, whole lots of progress! I should probably get out to the shop and make some progress. Compared to you I'm making the Spokane contingent look bad.

Chris, great thread to follow. Keep it up - you're almost there.

This is a great informative thread. You and others have covered lots of obstacles. You have made it a lot easier for us lagging behind folks. That o2 sensor error is the heater side of the o2 it seems to be saying. You probably could use a resistor or just hook the o2 sensor up to clear it until you get romraider going. I would be surprised if subaru uses a light to trigger the charging like a gm alternator though. Have you figgured out if the fuel pressure control is pulse width modulated on the suby control circuit? Or did you just hook up the pump to 12 vdc I guess. The sti of my son's car has lower pressure at idle and higher pressure under boost.

I would be surprised too on the alternator, low priority but hopefully get to look at it soon. Also on the alternator it is tough to get a short enough belt, need 28" and locally the nearest was over 29" but found one on the internet.

I used the WRX fuel pump controller, I have not put a scope on it but presume it operates as it should .....

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Chris,
I had the same error code pop up on my scanner too. If you have a way to turn it off (RomRaider) it doesn't hurt anything. That is what my Suby shop guys said ) As long as you do not have to take it through emissions...
Just remember, it is licensed as a 1975 914

I am impressed in all of the detail you put in the car!

Hope to see it at WCC 13!!!

Cheers!
Nate

So had some fun with the ECU today, got my Tactrix device so I can hook up the OBD to the laptop. It works great, just as well as there is no user manual for this thing not even to say what the LED's are for.

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So I tried a few times to connect with no luck, need to make sure the flash connector and test connector are hooked up then hit 'OK' on the screen at the same time you turn the ignition on. A brief moment of jubilation was to be had before I found out that my image was not supported .... I had to download a hex reader to find the image code was A4RI400I. After searching I found there was an A4RI401I variant that was supported.

Now all I needed was the A4RI401I ROM image, sure enough someone has hosted that on the RomRaider forum. OK now comes the keep your fingers crossed part, downloading the new image... well it worked out OK and the engine started afterwards! Result.

Below is a screenshot of the EcuFlash SW you need to read and write to the ECU with.

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Here is a shot of the RomRaider where you can modify the image then use EcuFlash to download.

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The following is the best part and that is the real time logger part of RomRaider which with a wideband o2 sensor should give me the ability to tweak some parameters or if nothing else help me debug issues.

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Neat to get this working.

I forwarded this thread to my son and called him to ask if he could help make this any easier. He is driving back from alabama from the a&m game now but he said he would look at it when he gets time. He wasn't to the miss border yet so it may not be today.

Chris! the axles are finally in! they will be headed your way Monday!

Finally got around to assembling, the EMPI shafts were the wrong spline count, who would have thought they would make them different to OEM ... oh well some used ones should be on their way this week.

I did transfer the 914 ends onto the new shafts, once the Subie ends come I can get them mounted.

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I also read that I may need to add an extra couple of quarts to the gearbox to replace the left over volume from all the parts removed ... makes sense, I guess someone was having problems with bearing noise with the conversion.

Wow Chris,
I haven't seen what you've been up to in a long time, great progress!
All your work is so clean and I love the orange.

I see you got the Romraider and Ecuflash fired up. That is so nice to just turn off the codes that don't apply. Later, you can take it out and log some runs.

I look forward to see that first drive.

Thanks for the heads up on those CV's...almost bought a set of EMPIs myself. Better buy some used ones from NASIOC.....

Thanks for the feedback, on the drive ... you and me both!

Well glad I saved you from the same fate.

I got my used parts today, here are the used OEM

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And here are the EMPI's, very similar construction to the Porsche ones.

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I will get some grease, boots, clean up the old casings and get these assembled and on the car.

Earlier in the week my little helper was installed. Wish I had got this earlier on, would have made all the work to the underside soooo much easier.

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An underside shot just because I could.

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Was waiting on the new boots before assembling, came into local parts store yesterday and with the car on the lift took no time to remove from the car, place the Subie end on, grease and reassemble then put back on the car.

Boot clamps that came with the boot kit were useless so need to get some better one.

Now I can figure out the clutch cable routing, mock up a bracket and then order the new clutch cable with modified length.

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In the "914 info" section under paint codes it shows there is no Signal Orange for MY 1975...obviously there was in 75' Is yours an early 75?

My 75 is Nepal orange L20C and it looks pretty close to what his car has ended up being, perhaps a little darker.

Chris,
What was the final verdict in the location of the SPEEDHUT Oil pressure sensor location?
I am trying to figure out how to install mine.
Please elaborate if you can about what you did and if you have any pics?

The car looks awesome BTW!

Nate

Thanks Nate wish I had made more progress but will get back to it this fall, need to sort clutch cable and still waiting on a shifter solution!!

On the oil pressure it was fine I just needed the engine to start, cranking did not budge the oil pressure for whatever reason. So the Speedhut sensor works fine, will see if I have more pictures of the sensor tonight.

Update: See post 239 for the picture of the oil pressure sender.

Holy mother of crap is this a good thread.

I'm about to do another 914, and definitely doing a Subie this time. I don't know about all the body panel work though. I'm 1/2 tempted to order fiberglass replacements for all 4 corners, as well as the hood and trunk. For the $1,500 it'll cost me, that's a lot of time/energy I WON'T have to worry about this time.

Thanks for the thread. I know it's a ton of work, and can appreciate finding "one more thing" to do before you finish with a section.

LOVE THIS THREAD but one question:

Are you going to pull the engine cradle and paint it, or are you leaving it raw for a reason?

Any updates?

OK time to make some progress with this project, I spent most of last year distracted with another car which is somewhat of a relation to the 914. Did a Euro delivery and had a blast, at the moment it makes working on the 914 a little more difficult as the garage is somewhat tight for space but with some dry weather I can shuffle things around.

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So yesterday I dropped the engine, sucks to have to go backwards but I need to get the cradle powder coated and finish up the sheet metal after I cut the opening in the trunk. Also need to permanently route the fuel lines and tidy up the wiring plus a bunch of other things. I made a list yesterday, that helps.

OK Engine out. Only took an hour or so, hope it goes back it as easily.

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This is how I left the outer corners in the trunk, pretty rough cut.

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And after I cleaned it up a bit.

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Now I need to figure out the best way to close all of this up, I am temped to have a removable access panel in the trunk just in case.

A small start but feels got the enthusiasm going especially with Ian's cable shifter making progress!

Great build.

I've got all the same stuff from Ian, so I'm using this as a reference on how to put everything together. ;-)

I'm back and forth on how much to cut out of the trunk, and if I leave an access port. I'm also not sure if I flip the intake manifold.

Carry on...

Oh, and that's a bad-ass Cayman!

Well the powder coating company was on form, dropped off parts Monday ready to pick up Wednesday, great service. Even mentioned he had not seen me for a while and then we talked car stuff for another 20mins.

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Got the boost gauge mounted under the dash, the PTFE tubing they give out in the kit is less impressive so might find a better solution. I could have got the boost added to the speedo looking back but too late for that now.

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Mounted the metal fuel lines against the bulk head, got these from a local place last year, comes with push fit connections and the right type of hose.

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Started some fabrication on the rear trunk but need some metal supplies, also got some o-rings for the welder, was having issues with intermittent gas flow and found a pinched o-ring.

Having put now o-rings in the welder the thing works like a champ, it made a bit of a dogs dinner out of my exhaust welds the way it was before. Now can only blame myself for crappy welds and I am definitely rusty.

OK so wanted to support the trunk somehow plus provide an edge to bolt an access panel. Used some angle I had and the thing is rock solid, no need to seam weld this so just tacked in various places and will seam sill it to finish it off.

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So I wanted to box in the corners in the engine bay, did not come out as nicely as I had hoped but once all buttoned up no one will see it.

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Next I need to add a flat piece to tie the two panels together and provide an edge on the side.

I'm watching how much you're cutting out, so I can see how much I'll have to do too.

I had the idea to make a removable cover, with a pieceunderneath on a hinge. That'd let me keep the computer and such in the trunk. Not sure though.

Great progress. Keep at it!

OK another long break, arrival of shifter cables has got me motivated again. Finished up the sheet metal in the engine bay, added a top support to anchor the removable panel which I will work on later. With restricted access and all the extra plumbing on the WRX I did not want to loose this opening.

Primed painted and undersealed so can let that dry for a while, also mounted the battery tray.

Nice to see some hydraulic clutch solutions in the other subaru threads so I will be working on that this week and then get the engine back in.

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I was originally going to modify the Subaru clutch for a cable but with recent excellent solutions posted by others for the hydraulic setup I am going down that route.

Willwood setup is on its way but I am pretty sure I don't have room for it as my coolant house is in that area, the Civic unit is much more compact and I think it will work. Later this week when I get back in the garage I will know for sure.

Someone at work was kind enough to make the bracket I need, the Clevis joint that came with the Civic unit may need to be replaced with one that has more reach also.

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Looks nice Chris! The Civic master will definitely work, Bob has used it. What size are the threads on that? This is the clevis we used on the Wilwood:

Clevis

It's 5/16...

Thanks!, the Civic is M8 so this might work

M8 Clevis

Got the new clevis and looks like it will be better than the one that came with the Slave.

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That is the good news, bad news is that the bracket I have will not work, the clearance with the coolant hose is making this a challenge. I mocked up a template.

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I need to rotate the master cylinder clockwise by a few degrees so the lower mounting hole is raised.

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You can see the how much material needs to be removed on the next bracket compared to the one I have.

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I have the engine harness all wrapped now, engine can go back in which will tidy up the clutter on the garage floor.

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Have been looking for a while for tight radius 180 degree silicone hose for the intercooler connection but no luck, however, found these Cobra heads which will do the job nicely (need to trim the pipe obviously).

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Got the engine back in, hot sticky weather here so waited till the evening but feels good to have it back together. Just bolted in for now, will get it all hooked up next time.

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Clutch Master Bracket #3, I think this one is going to work. Fingers crossed.

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My situation has changed and after this project has languished for too long maybe someone else can finish it off. I cannot tell you how much I enjoyed getting it to this point (priceless) and how saddened I am not to be able to finish it but sometimes you have to move on and I hope I bought some entertainment to the people who have followed this.

Orange 75 Project For Sale

Sorry to see you go Chris. Top notch build. Great job, really enjoyed following it. Hope it's finished to the same high quality standards.

Ah,..Thats a damn shame,..the work on this car is unbelievable to say the least,..and I wish, I could have seen it completed myself...!!!
Would have been gorgeous ..!!!

And I have learned a few things aswell,....Thanks ,..928,...Frank

I am the new owner of Chris's 914 Subie conversion. I have started getting a bit more active on the board doing some research and developing a plan. The current plan is to put the car in the body shop for some block sanding, chassis stiffening and paint. It is going in the first week of July and is expected back six weeks later. Chris had painted the trunks, engine compartment and jams in orange (I believe L20-E). I will paint he car the same color with a touch of pearl, it'll look good in the sun.

During paint, I am figuring out an air conditioning and heat system, (I live in the desert). I have been kicking around some ideas with some people on another thread, it looks doable. While in paint, I will also send the seats out to get upholstered and order the interior bits.

When the car gets out of paint, it is going to a local Subaru WRX tuner. A couple of weeks ago I flew over to SoCal to look at Gary Scott's Lamborghini Verde Ithica Green 914. His car is flawless, it looks like a car done by one of the tv shows. Anyway, Gary was kind enough to share with me the build sheet an I am using the same tuner that did his engine. I will be upgrading the turbo and intercooler, I am looking to get 250-300 hp at the wheels.

Anyway, that is a status on the car. I am pretty excited about it, Chris is a great craftsman, I expect this car to be a really nice drIver.
Ed

Congrats, great start for a project there!

If Gary has that sweet green GT flared Subaru conversion I think you are talking about I have only seen pictures of it and I am impressed!

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Congrats, great start for a project there!

If Gary has that sweet green GT flared Subaru conversion I think you are talking about I have only seen pictures of it and I am impressed!
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Gary's car is amazing, the build is flawless, I was blown away by the quality of the car. Made me want to fly home and build something as cool. To top it off, Gary is a great guy. We stoop in a parking lot talking cars for a couple of hours. While standing there people driving by would give the thumbs up, and a couple people stopped to look at it.

Congrats Ed. Glad this car is in the right hands of a motivated enthusiast!


Let's see some photos of your Bugeye and Mini!!

Just got the car back from paint. It is L30E which I put a pearl mid-coat into. I have six boxes which just showed up from 914 rubber with a whole bunch of interior parts in it. Next steps are interior installation, I am installing a larger intercooler and a bigger turbo. Sometime in the next couple of weeks the car will head to the dyno shop to get the car running.
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good luck with the project and nice commando in the background

I have a love-hate relationship with my Norton. When it is good it is great, when it has mid-seventies electrical issues I usually end up walking home

long time norton owner, walked home once. do you work on it or farm it out?

I work on it myself, it is actually a pretty good bike. I have completely rebuilt it, its weakest point is the brakes. They are awful. I mostly just take it on short rides with friends who also have vintage bikes. Mostly I ride a BMW S1000R which is a pretty great bike, but lacks soul.

Ed,

The car is looking great painted. Very excited to see it come together and run.

You mentioned you plan to run a larger turbo & I assume injectors. Have you picked out a turbo yet?

Having followed this thread with the previous owner, I also suggest fabricating a new downpipe from the turbo with a bellmouth or divorced wastegate pipe.

Hey Matt
Hope all is well. I have a Subie tuner near me, he is suggesting a VF23 Hybrid, which runs a different impeller. No need for different injectors, I am going for a pretty modest gain. I am thinking around 275HP to the wheels. The agree with the downpipe, it is on the list