Yes your vent window will press against the windsheild post because as the door lifts up to meet the striker the hinge point acts like a tetter totter. If you move the top of the cowl forward the windsheid frame will go with it. The back of the door will raise to line up with the striker and the door will no longer tetter totter the vent glass into the windsheild frame seal.

Do this. Go out to the garage. Remove the targa top. Measure the distance from the right side of the top of the windsheild frame back to the targa bar latch. Then check the left side the same. Oh and do this with the doors open. Then do it with the doors closed.

Then report.

I need to make a better one. There are a few holes on it that I can barely get a bolt in because I welded the frame too close to the holes. I had to open up a few holes in it too. Your second in line. Another member here expressed some interest a while back. If he doesn't want it you can have it for the price of shipping. I need to hang onto it until I get the car all pieced back together though.

Sounds great to me, like I said, no rush, I have a lot of work still left to do before I even get to the front.

Drivers side = 24 7/8 - open or closed

Passenger side = 24 11/16 open and 24 3/4 closed

I'm correct but I was 1mm short. You have a 6mm difference from your right side to your left.

Now, do this: Remove the pinch weld mounted seal in the right and left door jamb.

Then find a place on both latch pillars (right and left) that are the same approximately at the height of the belt line. With the doors open, measure from the latch pillar on both sides from the pinch weld flange to the same place at the base (bottom corner) of both "A" pillars to the edge of the pinch weld flange.

I'm betting you get the same measurement.

Yup, same measurement.

Im late to the show.

Did you hit something?
If not, remove the window, corner window, chrome piece etc etc.
THEN close the door.

The chrome upright is extremely adjustable.

Rich

I didn't hit anything. An owner before me ricocheted it off a wall. It's slow going but it's coming together.

Remove the window.
Set the door perfect.
Then put the window back in.

One trick is to tip the chrome upright away from the centerline of the car. Everything still works fine and that is why it is adjustable.

Rich

No don't remove the window. The window fit the opening before the accident. Adjust the cowl like I told you and the door will self correct. As you move the cowl back the door will close on the striker without lifting and the window won't be forced into the windsheild pillar.

It will do no good to adjust the door or window until you have corrected the chassis. Then you can fine tune the opening by moving the door slightly or the window slightly.

Your chassis is 6mm off. Correct that first.

You will know your doing good if the door stops raising up when you hit the striker and the measurement at the top of the windsheild stays the same with the door open or closed like the driver side.

Ok that confirms the cowl is leaning back on the passenger side. (and the car is not sagging at the jack point closing the gap at the top of the targa bar to the windsheild)

One more check you can do is to measure both sides from the bottom of the latch pillar pinch weld to the arch at the top of the cowl. (curved area at the base of the windsheild) use the pinch weld flange and find a place on both sides that are the same. You should see the passenger side will be shorter by about 4mm. (6mm at the top of the windsheild)

This one isn't sagging. The longs are perfect. Original paint and no rust. That's the entire reason I bought it. It was bent but damn near rust free.

I'll get some more measurements tomorrow to see how much I need to move it. If you can get a pic of that tool I'd appreciate it.

Here you go. It's hard to see but the jaws have teeth that bit into the pinch weld flange.The threaded section is right and left hand thread so when you rotate the square tube it extends or retracts.

If you want I can put it in a card board tube and ship it to you. It's kind of heavy and shipping could be expensive.

Thanks for the pictures. No need to ship it. I'll make one. After shipping costs from and then back to you I bet I can buy the stuff to make it. Plus I'll have a cool new tool. You can never have enough of those. Mine will only adjust on one side but it'll still work. Thanks.

I haven't done a damn thing in months. Winter sucks.

John! your next post will be your 914th post! You want me to come over this weekend or next? We can tweek that door opening.

There was an Alien sighting in Racine Wisconsin this weekend. Here we see a picture of the Creator in his natural environment.

Here's another of picture of "measure 6 times and tweak once."

When Rick was through the door closed like butter. We ended up swapping out the door latch with one of my spares. I found out that was half my problem. Here's a picture of me relaxing while Rick does the work. This was the first time I let someone else touch one of my project cars. I usually do all the wrenching. This one was beyond me. One false move and it would be tweaked the wrong way. I kept one hand in my pocket and the other on the coffee cup. Rick knows what he's doing. I just tried to stay out of the way.

Hopefully that engine didn't puke all over the inside of your car. Rick's the only guy I know who hauls around greasy parts in a 5 series BMW.

Rick, the wife says the next time you and Sandy are in town we need to go out for dinner. She was bummed I didn't tell her you guys stayed in Racine Saturday night. There's a nice Italian place downtown. She doesn't need to be asked twice if she wants to go there.

She did make me go inside about an hour after you left. She was tired of me opening and closing the door. It just closes so nice now.

BTW - this was post # 928.

Hi John! 928th Hey, I had a great time today. I wished I could have stayed longer. We were just getting to the funs stuff!

For all,
I want to let you in on our fun. I was very interesting in the 914 John purchased from Budman. I was seriously thinking of purchasing the car at the same time John was. I have followed his repair progress with interest wondering how nice (solid) the car is.

Well John had an engine I was interested in and he needed a fender and a tail light panel I have as spare parts. This was all the prodding I needed to make plans to see the car.

Sandy and I rolled into town last night and while she slept at the hotel (her weekend thing ) I hopped in my Touring with parts loaded and made it over to John's house bright and early.

Let me tell you. His car is one solid example of a 914! John has made some great progress on his journey to put this car back on the road where it belongs.

As a bonus I got to help repair a tight door opening that was kind of halting progress. I'm sure we will see many more posts over the next year with landmark progress being made.

I scored a great core engine for Sandy's car. John also gave me a chrome front bumper. So, 7 of 9 will be getting an upgrade to Chrome!

Thanks John! Maybe we can do it again sometime this year!

BTW: This isn't the first time I've hauled an engine in my BMW....

Click to view attachment

Just had to show off my cool spreader.

Look what showed up today. Thanks Jason. It was packed bullet proof. The carbs didn't come with it but I had to toss them on as soon as I cracked the crate open. It seems the 2.4 conversion is going to be a reality. All I need now is a shroud, fan, alt, dizzy, linkage, oil tank, oil lines, motor mount and exhaust. Oh, and then about 8k to rebuilt the engine to S spec.

I'm thinking of keeping it a T for awhile to cut those costs way down. Let me know if anyone is giving away a set of 2.2S pistons.

sf

Nice! keep up the good work! I am looking foward to seeing this back on the road.

Good. I was wondering if you got it yet. Do you know what day it arrived in Milwaukee? Forward Air worked out great.

That's going to work out really good!

Bruce Lee, Guy Williams & I approve

T.C.

Click to view attachment

I showed up on the 2nd. I couldn't pick it up then because I had to coach soccer practice after work. Forward air did work out great. Your crate didn't even have a scratch on it. But the way you built it there was no way the motor would have been damaged anyhow. Their hub is only a few blocks from my work. I showed them my drivers license and they loaded the crate into the back of my pickup after I signed for it.

I'm stoked. I just need time now. With all the sports my kids are into I can't catch a free moment.

Ya, but those soccer games are a hoot! I remember my kids playing. They would stand on the field and chat right in the middle of the game.... Drove the parents nuts.

Any work on that fender yet?

Haven't touched the fender. Just have time for late night parts searches. The wife has a long list of "honey do's." As soon as I get through a few of them I can work on the car. The fender is on the top of the list.

The fender is finally going on. I had to take 4 days of vacation to get one day in the garage. It's funny how you plan to do all kinds of stuff on vacation and then life gets in the way. Some lady backed into the wifes BMW. There went one day chasing estimates and playing phone tag with insurance agents.

Anyhow, it's going on nice. Unfortunately the only rust free fender I had was dented up. After grinding off 1/2" of bondo and some work with a dolly block and hammer it looks pretty good. I'll have to bribe Rick to help me with the body work. I can weld and grind but I can't do bondo. It takes me like 5 coats to get things decent.

one more.

I could end up working over in Milwaukee later in the summer. The fender is looking good!

Completed butt weld and then blended smooth.

All that work just to chop it out of there and add a flare.

From the backside. You can see the waves in the AA steel flare. It aint perfect but it beats glass.

That butt welded seam came out so nice I bet you hated to have to cut it out! Get a body file from Eastwood or the Snap On, Mac, or your local tool guy. You should be able to file some of those wrinkles or waves out closer than they are.

Your not joking. I had to do so serious soul searching on that one. I sat in the garage for a 1/2 hour trying to figure out if I really wanted to do the flares. I came up with the fact that it was a bent up 1.7 destined to be cut up for parts. I saved it from that fate. The fact that this one is going to be on the road is a bonus. I went with the flares.

I tried to weld the flares on as careful as I butt welded the stock fender. I bought those Intergrips from Eastwood. I don't like them. The gap was too big and they didn't line up the panels flush. I tossed them over my shoulder. Any place that the two panels lined up perfect I spot welded. I then used deep throat vice grips, a dolly block and a hammer to line up the rest of the seam. I'm hoping when I grind off the weld it'll look as nice as the stock fender.

I can't see how guys weld flares on in a day. It took me several hours just to get one lined up right and tacked. I guess it gets easier with practice.

Looking Great man, keep up the good work!

..You're doing a great job!(man,I sure miss kato-bLee)

Drivers side flare going on.

Going to need some more sanding disks and that body file. Does the body file remove material? I remember seeing a disk that heated up the metal and then you quenched it to shrink out the high spots.

Thanks guys, I'm trying. I'm not real happy with the flare symetry out of the box. They're close but not quite there. The drivers side rocker is also 3/4" shorter in the front. All you need to do is stand them next to one another and it's easy to see. QC isn't what it used to be.

Anybody use one of these and will it work on the waves?

Very nice work...The rockers are different sizes because the factory originals where aswell. Dont know why but they where.

I've heard that. I'd be fine with that if I picked up an original M471 GT.

At least I have an excuse if things don't turn out symetrical. I'll just say it came like that from the factory.

I've never used a shrinking disc. I've always wanted to try one.... just never bought one. and yes. The body file will remove material. Best to do some blocking before you start filing. if the waves are too high you could end up with a hole...Eeeek!

Yes, I've used one (though mine is smooth, not "corrugated" like the ones in the photo). It works pretty slick, though I'd advise you to go slowly. Don't try to work too large an area -- on my AA flares, I tried to hammer/dolly the waves as best as I could and then used the shrinking disk to isolate each wave separately. Fortunately, I got to practice on the 1969 Opel GT we're entering into the 24 Hours of Lemons on August 7 & 8 at Thunderhill... better that heap than my flared teener project!

Keep the photos coming!