thanks stuart, i appreciate the kind words.

as for the bbq, I'm thinking burgers, hot dogs, chicken, and ribs. depending on how many people are gonna show. hopefully a few experienced people will show and make things easier as far as the car goes.

We're facing similar challenges with terribly different engines. I'm at 4x114.3 for the rims and staring at my MS3 trying to get the confidence to wire it up. Good luck to you, from my recent experience, you may need it

Too bad I am not closer.. I just did a MS install on a CIS 2.7l. The Subaru is different, but, not that much different. wiring is the easy part of the install.

I need to post some new pictures of my install. But, you just have to follow the wiring diagram, and match the wires.

Oh, and my install is a "from scratch" wiring harness. I just tap into the existing harness at one point, keyed power.

-- brett

finished up the fuel related parts, i have an E2000 model fuel pump (electric inline) its rated at 70-90 psi. the filter is just a cheap one i plan to swap out after a few hundred miles on it.

the tank had some rust so i first threw a chain in there and shook it around. then i poured in about a gallon of vinegar and swished it around, left it over night, washed that out with water and baking soda a few times, then sprayed in wd40 to get more of the moisture out, then washed it out again with gasoline. seems to do something, since i found pieces of rust coming out with the first couple of washes. and from a visual inspection it was much better.

the hose im using is actually carburetor hose, SAE 30R7, it states not for fuel injection, however after some research i decided to go with it. the fuel injected hose costs about 7 dollars per foot. where as this stuff was $1.30
the FI stuff is rated at 100psi operating, and 900 burst. whereas the carb hose is rated at 50psi operating and 250 burst. purchase from Kragen aka O'reily, i got the stuff made by gates, so i find a little more comfort in that. gates saftey stripe II. i ended up using 20 ft of hose.

You are going to need to shorten those fuel lines coming off the tank. Anything more then about 5+ extra inches and the hose will become kink almost every time you set the fuel tank in. Ask me how I know

If you are running EFI, please use the correct hose. I hade the low pressure hose blow on my EFI conversion. Dumped 1/4 tank on the freeway before I clamped it off.

Here's a link to a Gate's "tech tips" on fuel hose
Gates

It indicates that 7mm SAE 30R7 hose has a working pressure rating of 50psi and 3/8" has a working pressure rating of 35psi. It also warns that 30R7 line is not suitable for any fuel injected system because of high pressure and the possibility of "sour gas" in the fuel return line. The Gates company asserts that only SAE 30R9 hose should be attached to any fuel injection system.

Fuel hose with a SAE rating of 30R9 is five time more expensive than 30R7 and it's in Gates interest to sell more of the 30R9 -- I presume.

What is sour gas? Is it the same as what is referred to as oxidized gas? When a manufacturer describes a technical condition with a loaded phrase, e.g., "sour gas,". it means they are selling something. That's not to say they are using bad faith -- there is no question that 30R9 is much more durable than R7

The Bosch pressure regulator appears to be a spring loaded adjustable check valve. Could it produce a pressure surge that is much greater than its adjusted setting? For instance, when you are running WOT and then completely let off the throttle. An engineer could figure that out pretty easily. I cannot.

What was the quality of the OEM hose in the mid 1970's? Did a lot of 914's blow fuel lines then? We all know VW's burned all the time still do today, but that problem is not related to fuel pressure as their cam-actuated mechanical pumps only produce around 5-8 psi.

Different rubber degrades differently from a given heat, which I think is an equally important consideration in an air-cooled application-- although I've yet to see any rubber hose that could handle contact with a cylinder head. 30R7 is rated to 257F./ 125C. while R9 goes to 270F./135C. The 13 degree difference doesn't sound significant but I don't know what a normal engine bay temperature is. If it's between 258F. and 270F. then R9 would be much better than R7. Otherwise it might not make a difference.

I'll check on the lines bruce, i dont think they were kinking but i'll try to get a flashlight underthere and take a look. i wanted to leave enough line for me to pull the tank and inspect or do maintanence.

what kind of pump were you using mike? was it a high pressure walbro or maybe better? having the hose blow off is a major concern of mines, did your hose burst? or did it blow at a connection?

with my applications and from my research i've read about the 30r7 vs 30r9 and chose to go with the 30r7, if i run across problems later on i'll switch to 30r9. there are some VW guys who are switching to the E2000 fuel pump and running the 30r7, they've run their test on the hose as well, with burst pressures of over 250. not sure if my fuel pump and pressure regulator will cause pressure to exceed or even get close to that.

if i was more wealthy i would definately go with the fuel injection hose, but for now i'll work with what i've got.

thanks stuart, i've gone thru alot of the info, i'm sure the fuel injection stuff is more profitable, also the FI stuff creates less pollution. i'm not too concerned with the temperature, i believe it is located in cool locations. i'll be keeping a close eye on the fuel line.

"If i was more wealthy i would definately go with the fuel injection hose, but for now i'll work with what i've got."



I'd spent $100 on FI hose then messed up one of the legs of the fuel lines. When I ran out of R9 I used R7. I don't think it will fail for a while anyway. I'm more concerned with the connections and routing everything out of harms way. We'll see.

The motor has been hooked up with MegaSquirt 2. Purchased a new size 58-RDL battery from Autozone, bought some angle stock to make the battery tray and then bolted it down into the top right corner of the trunk. And then i retrofitted trunk shocks off a Lexus ES250 to the 914's trunk. Here's a pick of the rear trunk now:

Had a machinist machine down our crank pulley to accept a trigger wheel:


Finished by pressing on the trigger wheel:

Nice work, can't wait to see this thing run. Keep up the updates.

This is a great looking project, glad you guys are keeping along with it. I'd like to do a suby some day.

I am going to throw in my warning.
GET THE CORRECT EFI FUEL HOSE!!!

Gasoline is nothing to screw around with.

I have watched my wife's 914 burn on the side of the road. It was like watching a family member die. It almost cost me my marriage. It took 6 years to get the car fixed and back on the road.

Please don't risk all your hard work and money on a few bucks worth of fuel hose.





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Also rebuilt the pedal cluster w/ bronze bushings:



and rebuilt all four of the calipers, painted them goldish/bronze and installed them:

Excellent advice!

I don't want to beat on you too much,but you do need to redo that fuel system. The hose clamps look to be the unshielded worm type. These will loosen and are not to be used on high pressure fuel systems. I don't think that plastic fuel filter will hold anything like 70psi.

Whats up with the trigger wheel? You didn't want to use the stock subaru stuff.

Bob

i understand the need to replace the fuel hose, and i have intentions on replacing them with the correct hose, when i have the necessary funds. as for the fuel filter, that was only meant as a temporary filter to catch all the left over junk from the fuel tank, i plan to replace that after i run a tank of fuel through the system. and the hose clamps, i've already started to pick up the correct fuel hose clamps at the pick-a-part.

the location where i got the engine from did not include the stock wiring harness and ecu. after looking at the prices from the dismantlers (yes i know a ripoff from them.) i decided it was simplier and more cost effective to go with an aftermarket engine management system. especially if i ever intend on using forced induction later down the line, or if this motor went out on me, to switch to an ej25 or ej22t or ej20t

intake is in. replaced all the fuel lines with r9, found dayco 5/16" on amazon for 90$ 25 foot roll. for all those looking for it. switched all the clamps to FI clamps. dlo has a the pictures he'll probably post soon.

Made a hole with a 3.5" hole saw and then straightened out the bottom to create a U shaped hole and lined it with some rubber hosing.

Continuing with the rear trunk:

Mounted the Megasquirt ECU:



Our steering wheel setup with an NRG quick release hub and 30mm spacer. (got the sparco for $30 off a friend)



And our driver seat setup: replica fixed Bride seat mounted on the stock seat rail (donated for free from James' uncle)

whats this plug connect to? i've been working on wiring, trying to pull all the wires that arent being used. any useful diagrams would be appreciated. its located in the cabin by the passenger foot well.

Wiring for emissions equipment, not used anywhere but the Peoples Republic of California.

I would suspect your car is a 75/76, or has a 75/76 wiring harness.

thank you good sir! yes it is a 75.

For those looking for new rear sway bar bushings, we found a new set of polyurethane bushings @ Autozone for $17.99+tax. They come with new brackets, washers, and grease. They come in either black or red. They're only available online here http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessori...ier=355863_0_0_



this accepts a 17mm sway bar.

picked up a hi-torque starter from imi and a 19mm brake master cylinder, question about the hi-torque starter, are there only two wires going to it? the main + from the battery, and a + from the ignition?

and installed the e-brake but unsure if this is the correct orientation, if someone could confirm or correct us on that, here's a picture.

Won a set of Euro Tail Lights! WOOHOO! $89 shipped to my door step!!!

got the hi-torque starter in, got the axles in, also switched to a 19mm master cylinder still need to bleed it tho. and picked up a few fuse holders at the pick a part and swapped the fuse panel to new fuses. for the 8 amp fuses, i used 10 amp, and the 16 used 15, are there any problems with this?. plans are to custom wire an hid headlight kit, as well as a foglight kit. and after we bleed the brakes, off to the muffler shop.

Wow that will be running soon,, congrats to you guys!!

I can't wait to see it run.

-Robert

pushed the 914 to the muffler shop this morning. 2 1/4 inch piping.

our baby can finally roar with new piping







not bad for $125 out the door, they reused the stock exhaust manifold stubs. modified the driver side stub to clear the shift rod and then used 2.25" piping, with uneven running lengths that join into the magnaflow canister tipped off with a shortened S2000 AP1 muffler tip.

It's not the best quality of work on that header, but it's functional and fits the mood of the project, which was to keep it affordable with a small budget.

Wow you guys are getting so close, makes me pretty jelous, i havent even started mine... keep it up!
-Ian M.

You've got a sweet chassis to start with mMm aubergine and flares

Exhaust looks great from the rear. I like the placement of the muffler. Only thing I would change would be to use a collector instead of just a 90 degree 'T' where the 2 sides merge for better flow.

yea thats what i thought they were gonna do. should have been more like a Y then a T. the driver side should have been bent the other direction towards the muffler. but it was alot cheaper then the other quotes i had gotten. possibly in the future i'll get the collector redone. once the cars up and running.

any videos of your car yet michael?

Dude love to come by and check it out ...let me know when your around.

sure, i'll let you know when its running tho. should be soon, i hope.

Not yet. Just added a 5 point harness and I'm in the process of reinstalling the transmission with shortened gear ratios. Wil start making test drives again once the tranny is back in. Got my front GT valance mounted also. Been very busy with family and work so my progess has really slowed.

With my set up I'm able to replace the transmission without removing the exhaust or lifting the car. Nice track feature!

figure i'd update on what i've been up to.

heres my CSOB paint job





paints uncut, needs to be wetsanded and buffed out.


then picked up a LE fiberglass lip with a chunk missing, so did a repair with short strand fiberglass. i added a layer of fiberglass to the front, but dont have a picture of the finished product yet. im still sanding it.

Picked up that fiberglass LE lip from the GnR swapmeet of Leamon (heeltoe914) for a smoking price, but it required a little repair. We're in the home stretch. Now i just gotta get my lazy ass up and diagnose the brake issues

Took apart the rear right caliper to find one of the new rubber seals shredded, in the process of contacting Eric Shea for a replacement. Other than repaired a nut on the rear bumper by drilling out the seized nut and welding in the correct bolt into the drilled out hole. It was an easier solution than to weld in another nut of same size and risk distorting the threads from the weld. We have a stick welder so it was easier going with the bolt solution.

Update:

Moving the car to my place Wednesday night. James is selling me the car, and i will finish up the swap and get it running