Can't wait to work on the car this Friday. Might have a few extra helping hands

is VOX's name James? re: post #47

Yeah, repost #47?

So today i got an early start on the car and proceeded to weld up the sidemarker holes and antenna hole. ***Note this is my first time welding*** Here's some pictures of my progress:

1. I jasco'd (paint remover) the surrounding area.

2. Then took a wire wheel and brushed off the paint down to bare metal.

3. Cut out a circular piece of 22 gauge sheet metal.

4. Used a C-clamp to hold the piece in place.

5. Tack welded, filled up the hole, and then took a grinder to clean up the welds.

To finish up the patch we're gonna bondo the area and get it down as thin as possible for a smooth surface.

Here's pics of the other side and the antenna hole that was patched.




Lastly, we cut out the rusted area where the battery tray use to be. Then took some cardboard and cut out two pieces that fit the area cut out and then welded it in place. We weren't able to grind down the welds since our grinding disk was worn down.
Before:

After:

Flux-core welding? Nice work Dan

Thanks! Yeah it's flux-core i wanna try gas n tig welding now

so im looking at the front trunk and the rain gutters along the edge of the hood is all rusted quite badly. how would you guys reccomend fixing this? should i cut out the gutters then weld in new bent pieces or should i treat the rust with a rust converter and then weld a new piece on top of it, to keep its shape. any ideas?

I patched some of my rain gutters and they ended up looking pretty rough
because it is hard to grind them smooth enough to blend in.

I cut out some other sections and made new gutters and welded them on. Those
looked better. Try to keep the area you need to weld small and your repairs
will look better.

John

Very helpful advice. Yeah there's quite a few sections that have rust through and we'll use the cut out section and weld in new metal technique.

and onto the jackstands we go.

No! Now it wont be off for 3 years!

Edit: Hey VOX, are you guys hitting up WCC? Gotta represent the young teeners like you and me!

we're really gonna try man, hope to see you there, but it depends how far we get by then. im going to try and get all the rust done and sand it down this week, then get paint on it before i go back to school. if you got some free time while the paint dries or something drop us a line and come check ours out.

I see sunlight! Hopefully it stays that way so we can really work on the car all day tomorrow.

more pictures yay

And before pic of the rear quarter panel portion:

killed 2 black widows i hope there arent anymore!


two 914 on jackstands



trunk painted not the greatest work but i hope to cover it with carpet.


painted engine bay with bbq high temp paint.

Nice job guys!

Great Progress!

thanks guys, we appreciate the comments.

sadly small car no longer sells just the side peices to the subaru to vanagon engine mount kit, looks like we'll have to buy the whole set =/

engine wiring harness is here, cant wait to tackle that =/

bored of body work so we'll start working on the engine this weekend, and hopefully get all of its maintence done.

Have you seen Tony's engine mount? Check his thread out it's a pretty well done mount and you won't need small car parts to do it. He even has the dimensions for it.

Thing with Tony's engine mount is that you have to mount it to the inner sections of the engine bay. While we can just weld the Small Car engine mount onto the existing engine bar. I mean i would tack weld it onto the bar and then send it out to be structurally welded on by a professional.

I have no welding capability at home, I think I paid at most $75 to have all the welding done on my engine bar and its mounting in the engine bay. I paid maybe $20 for materials. It hold the engine in the right spot. I'm not sure how the Small Car mount works, but using the stock mounting points is tricky because they are so far forward of the engine mounts on an EJ motor. My best estimate is that it is between 14 and 18 inches away. Thats an awefully big torque arm.

-Tony

Here's what Amenson (Scott) did with the Small Car mount:



the progress thread: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=58431&st=0

Hands are aching to work on the 914 after a first week back in school fulltime. Probably, will be done with welding and can start on refreshing the EJ22 powerplant.

You should like the EJ22, thats what I have in my car. Hopfully you got one of the 90-93 Legacy ej22, they are dual port exhaust and have a ton more aftermarket surport than the later 90's single port heads.

The only dislike i have about the ej22 is the low 5500 rpm redline. but the lowend grunt of the motor is a very nice improvement over my original stock 1.7 liter. But only about a year with the ej22, i got the itch for more power and built a turbo kit from the old stock parts off my WRX and threw it all on the ej22. Simply said, its much more fun and quicker now. All on only 5 psi.

Keep up the progress! Let me know if you have any questions on the wiring haness or anything else about the motor...

we do have an early ej22, we're just about to start working on the engine/wiring harness so any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

The 5500 rpm redline doesn't sound correct. I read on www.thesamba.com that if you're using the wrong Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) you'll get an incorrect reading on the tach. I just searched on eBay for the 91' Subaru Legacy gauge cluster and came up with this ebay ad: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPEEDOMETER...#ht_3513wt_1217



The correct redline should be 6.5k. As it reads on this tachometer.

Actually i guess your right. I have the stock cluster in my garage and its the same as the one pictured... I built my own vss out of a magnetic pole switches and some magnets, but it souldnt affect my autometer tach, you do however have to use the autometer tach adapter box to read correctly with any Subaru engine. either way, it feels low. Or maybe it just get there too quick.

Vox, progress looks good.

A suggestion, to take or leave. Paint the engine bay a light color. It is dark and cramped working in there. Anything that reflects a little more light is going to be very helpful down the line.

Zach

Thanks for the suggestion Zach.

I'm not sure if this is the low RPM culprit: The stock 901 transmission
http://www.914world.com/specs/regearing_901.php

So after class/work today i had some daylight to spare and decided to finish up the welding from last Friday:

Last Friday i tackled the passenger side headlight rain gutter, the passenger and driver side top rain gutter. And today i tackled the passenger side jack point location. Here are the pics:








BTW...how would one go about grinding down the welds in the corner? Dremel?





Huge rats nest, surprised i didn't find a rat in there as well!

You can get carbide burrs in lots of different shapes. One shaped like a spear point would get in the corner easily in a air tool. Be sure and wear safety glasses cause it will really make sharp cuttings and they go everywhere. You do pretty quick work but you are also leaving some small holes in your welds. Go back and weld over the holes and it will last a lot longer.

My concentration was running low after 6 hours of work today. I'll go over them on Friday. Is there any way to get a good bead down with Flux Core? I've only been able to tack weld the piece in and then connecting the tack welds little by little. I'll check harbor freight on friday for the carbide burrs. Thanks

I buy lots of stuff at hf but I can't say that they will have a good carbide burr. I get mine from a industrial supply. You can try a hf burr and if it goes bad you can probably get one at a sears store tool dept. A good one that will last a long time will not be cheap. If you let it bounce or chatter it will break teeth off when cutting steel. It takes a little practice learning to control it. It's like the limp wrist syndrome with a semi auto pistol I guess. It sometimes takes two hands to control it especially in a small hole, it will try to run around the inside.

Just had James (VOX) put in an order for the engine maintenance items, the following were ordered from www.partsgeek.com: 1 bando timing belt, 2 koyo timing belt idler, 1 nsk tensioner roller, 1 timing belt idler cogged(nsk) 2 camshaft seal(nok) 1 valve cover gasket set (ishino) and 1 Nippon oil filter. Total came out to $240.10 including shipping.

Are you removing the cam pulleys to do the cam seals? Hope you've done this before. You might want a new waterpump and thermostat with gasket and front and rear main seal while you are at it.

Yeah, we're gonna get the water pump from Autozone since they offer one with a lifetime warranty. As for the thermostat, partsgeek didn't have the correct one so i'll probably have to look around for the correct one. And i'll check on the front and rear main seal before i go about purchasing. Oh and the accessory belts, since we're not gonna be running powersteering i wanna see if i can remove the powersteering pump and run a shorter belt or maybe just fill up the unit and recirculate.

In the past i've done a refreshing on a 93' Camry V6 3VZFE, i did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, timing belt tensioner, idler pulley, front main seal, spark plugs, valve cover gasket kit, and accessory belts.

get rid of power steering... You can find shorter belts easily. Also for the water pump, you may want to look into geting the turbo water pump. the water pumps off of the early turbo legacy's and wrx's have a different angled outlet and thermostat housing. With this pump you can use the wrx exhaust manifolds to have a much simpler exhuast design, or to add a turbo later down the road. The still bolt to the block the exact same, just different outlet.

Hmmm...

That would save us the hassle if we do decide to go the turbo route way down the line. What year turbo legacy and wrx is this water pump off? 91?

Picked up tires for our project. Found a set of four 205/50/15 Falken Azenis RT-615 for $200 off of Craigslist and i offered $180.

The pump I used is the water pump from an 02 WRX, bought from ebay. I am not positive but i think all turbo water pumps are the same. They have a revised angled outlet and two outlets on the side of the pump instead of the N/a pump's one outlet for the heater core line. I just plugged the extra outlet.

The same water pump shown in this picture?

You will need the extra outlet to cool the turbo.

Pankopp, how did you plug the extra outlet? Since we're not gonna be running a turbo anytime soon we'll need the extra outlet plugged.

If it will ever be in a cold climate you can use the extra also for the throttlebody heat.

Edit: Actually now that i look at it, i think the picture shown is the same as the one i used. It has three outlets instead of just two. I used one outlet to feed the heater core hardlines and just ran a line between the two other outlets to circulate the flow. it has worked fine for a little over a year of use. I will craw under the car tomorrow and check, maybe take a quick pic for you.

Yes the extra outlet could be used to cool the turbo, if/when you add one. but i ended up just T'ing into the heater core lines. I didnt really want three feet of water line going up and around all the exhuast components... also, the throtle body water line already is sourced from the main engine coolant manifold on the top of the motor, under the intake manifold.

good luck!

just checked my pump and it only has two outlets like i originally thought... two on the right side looking at the front of the motor. sorry for the confusion.

Thanks, we'll have to check that out.

we just picked up a transmission along with the engine bar, and shifter linkage. supposedly this transmission is from a shop (which moved to Alabama or Arkansas or something, but had someone working under them who had worked for nasa.) long story. anyways supposedly this transmission might have been rebuilt but im not sure. anyone know a shop like that? i want to find out if it really has been rebuilt or not. the tranny is wrapped with cellophane wrap looks like it has been shipped before (but the guy bought it along with a 914 in person)

also would anyone know if a 72 shifter will work for the 75 SS tranny linkage?