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Tom_T
QUOTE(914_teener @ Oct 27 2009, 07:20 PM) *

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Oct 27 2009, 06:20 PM) *




Yes...did you say that you had a picture of an aftermarket ski rack for teeners? I remember seeing plenty of them here in so-cal back in teh 70's......yes I am old enough!

Thanks if you have one or a picture.

Rob


See below & next post for pix of it. I got it at Gyp Iverson (Chip Iverson) Porsche+Audi in Newport Beach (Now Power Porsche NB) for less than $50 back in `76, & used them every winter 76-85!

It sits with skis held flat a few inches above & parallel with the Targa top, causing less wind turbulence, than the type from the rear bumper (bolts into tow-hook hole) & up to the roll bar (as in the rear rack shown in the next post) - with skis held at angle. The latter type also blocks access to the rear trunk without removing the skis, while these allow you to get in there if you don't fully open the trunk deck lid (ends of skis limit travel just a bit, but can be strapped into rack far enough forward to open both trunks without removing skiis.

FRONT RACK - MOUNTS INTO TARGA TOP GROOVE IN WINDSHIELD TOP FRAME:
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Tom_T
....and here's the rear rack of the set....

BTW - these can mount either on the driver's or passenger side, or both - if you want to bring along downhill + XC skis for 2!! biggrin.gif

REAR SKI RACK - MOUNTS TO UNDERSIDE OF ROLL BAR AT THREADED ACCESSORY MOUNTING HOLES:
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How's that!?
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JazonJJordan
piratenanner.gif Absolutely excellent study Tom, I think I will try to do mine.
I know mine is a wadering-lost from CA car.
Yours is a great project. It is nowhere near terminal; true or loose the rear lid. Replace the taillight steel section. True or replace the trunk rear portion of the floor. That's not but a few hundred and some weekend work, easy.
Work from there. The front is the same.
Eat a cow. You can do it. Just slice it, at one steak- at a time...ahhhh-good!
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Tom_T
QUOTE(JazonJJordan @ Oct 28 2009, 12:29 AM) *

piratenanner.gif Absolutely excellent study Tom, I think I will try to do mine.
I know mine is a wadering-lost from CA car.
Yours is a great project. It is nowhere near terminal; true or loose the rear lid. Replace the taillight steel section. True or replace the trunk rear portion of the floor. That's not but a few hundred and some weekend work, easy.
Work from there. The front is the same.
Eat a cow. You can do it. Just slice it, at one steak- at a time...ahhhh-good!
beerchug.gif poke.gif beerchug.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif rolleyes.gif laugh.gif beerchug.gif smash.gif popcorn[1].gif sawzall-smiley.gif beerchug.gif

Thanx....

Nice thing is, I was donated a wrecked racer shell which folded under the rear suspension with console damage, but pretty much everything I need in terms of F&R deck lids, L headlight/inner fender area, rear face panel & trunk floor & even the passenger floor/steering niche area (where my mystery rust hole appeared while in storage) are all there for the cutting!

Most of this is well beyond my skill level & limited tool bin, so rather than my f***ing it up, I'll have a good shop familiar with 914 body & paint help me with that part.

All I've got to do is get my daughter;s & wife's "extra" furniture out of the garage so I can get to it & start. Unfortunately, I have to do some business stuff first, dry.gif then start moving stuff out to the new shed my son & I built this summer!
kenshapiro2002
Alright...tell me what I'm missing here guys. The car has serious rust, and has been smacked in on both ends pretty nicely. It doesn't have sentimental value, and I had to look a few times to make sure it wasn't some rare 914-6 or special edition. He says he's going to do some preliminary work but have others do the body work. Seems to me it's going to take many thousands to make this car right, when much better examples can be had for far less than even the body work is going to take. Tell me where I'm "off" on this appraisal.
Tom_T
QUOTE(kenshapiro2002 @ Oct 28 2009, 05:17 AM) *

Alright...tell me what I'm missing here guys. The car has serious rust, and has been smacked in on both ends pretty nicely. It doesn't have sentimental value, and I had to look a few times to make sure it wasn't some rare 914-6 or special edition. He says he's going to do some preliminary work but have others do the body work. Seems to me it's going to take many thousands to make this car right, when much better examples can be had for far less than even the body work is going to take. Tell me where I'm "off" on this appraisal.


... sentimental value at the least, and a drive train thoroughly overhauled a few 1000s miles before it was smacked, I'm the second owner for 35 years, is a matching numbers early-73 914S ...

Perhaps not "worth it" to you and others here, but I ate many a PBJ sandwich & lotsa Mac-n-Cheese to get her, spent $10,000+ between Dec 75 & May 85 when she was my only car & DD, met & dated my wife in her, etc., etc.

While I'm not a "hammer-head" like many out there, it's not a necessary aspect to presume sanity in undertaking the project, because I'll bet that most out there have spent way more time & money on their 914 projects.

... and then, what's your time worth in doing so, especially when others with more expertise & better equipment can do it more quickly & efficiently! If someone can make more money per hour than what it costs to send it to a high quality resto shop's hourly rates - & even a modest $30/hr. job pays $60 for your double overtime on those evenings & weekends - same as most shops today, & add in how many $1,000s for tools & power-toys.....I think you get my drift, & the "other better 914 out there" is certainly going to require work too........so then - who is the crazy one!!?? screwy.gif ....... I'll maintain that we ALL are!

We do it - how ever & what ever it is that we do, because we want to do so.

However, there are many aspects of the work which I can & will do, & I'll see that it's done right & comes out looking like she did "as new" ... & I'll KNOW what's what, rather than buying someone else's problems & unknowns!! idea.gif

Anyway, enough of th soapbox - I'm doing it, so get over it! .... here are some new pix last Sunday befoer the "monsoon" hit us here in SoCal!

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... and "The Twins" in our tiny 18'-0" x 17'-6" garage - boxes at far left are the 914 parts collection, then the "Red Racer" courtesy of SOB Racing/"Sawyer or Brisco Racing" - Mike Sawyer & Barry Brisco, after the rear suspension folded under & damaged the consoles & center section of the car - but left me with usable F&R clips, decklids, floor section, etc. - my 73 914S is on the right - plus misc. garage "stuffage" throughout & above:

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Another shot of the Red (ex-)Racer parts shell -

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... and of my interior -

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Rust spots & bubbles top-side -

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Note the white Bondo at the rust bubble below, which was supposed to have been ground-out & "Leaded" back in in the 1980 Rust-oration, for which I was charged, but obviously NOT done properly! .. also a small bubble under the sail vinyl which is hard to see - sorry for the quality, but I was using my Lo-Rez cellphone camera to get pic files small enough to post here, & was losing light & fighting time with the rain coming in mid-afternoon! dry.gif

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The nefarious & mysterious underbody rust holing on pass side - driver side OK -

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Prior Targa Top refinish has started to peel, so it will be stripped & redone -

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A couple of detail shots of the "original" Riviera Alloy Wheels on my 914 when I bought it, including the Riviera logo on the bullet center caps, & although they're dirty - they're not corroded, but a rare brushed aluminum finish. I purchased a set of 5 Fuchs 2L Forged Alloy Wheels & will have Al Reed restore them for me, to put on post-resto, along with new lug bolts (still available) & a set of NOS center caps.

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OE Color, Chassis No., VIN & Build Date info.

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BTW - the Gold or Bronze Metallic was the color it was when I bought it in Dec. 75, & a repaint by either the PO/OO or dealer, Copper Metallic was mine in 8/76 & current color in 5/80.

Through my research & examining the physical evidence on my 914, I've been able to confirm that it was in fact originally factory fitted with the full Appearance & Performance Groups' options, including the "mysteriously missing":

1. Fog Lights/dash-switch (wires cut behind horns, evidence of mounting bracket once installed, clean hole in dash & facing where switch was installed);

2. Center Console & Gauges (under dash & floor mount holes were used, screw inserts under dash, elec. harness connections at tunnel, taco plate with oil temp. sender & wiring still in place, etc.);

3. Fuchs 2L Wheels (BO Recall not performed & shown in PCNA's records as still outstanding, which applied specifically to the Fuchs 2L Alloys only).

Additionally, this Dec. 1972 "914S" Porsche+Audi (USA) advertisement clearly indicated all these were "included options", as did the early-73 MY Porsche+Audi 12 pg. sales brochure for the 914 model - both of which I have in hand.

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... that's all for now! ///////
type47
Even though built in 72, it would be a Model Year 73 car although I always had the impression that the factory took the month of August off for vacation and would guess the number is a "9" for when production started again after vacation.
Tom_T
QUOTE(type47 @ Jan 21 2010, 08:11 AM) *

Even though built in 72, it would be a Model Year 73 car although I always had the impression that the factory took the month of August off for vacation and would guess the number is a "9" for when production started again after vacation.


Jim - IIRC July is the European (& Brit?) month for summer "Holiday", & part is usually used to retool as needed for heavy industrial, & auto model year change overs. Gustl, Sir Andy & some of the other Euro types on here can probably confirm that.

Mine is definitely a 1973 MY, as denoted by the 473 of the VIN & I'm betting that it was 8/72, & there are many others built in 8/72, as discussed below, but with a twist!?.

I've posted the "8" or "9" build date question at the Originality & History forum & it will be interesting how folks weigh in there:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=103085

It seems more likely that there would be an incomplete or partially punched dot in the "8" - rather than some random "extra dot" punched in a "9" .....

.... This sounds like the Florida "Hanging Chad" dilemma! laugh.gif

However, the mystery deepens, as you'll see in the above O&H topic on the build date, in that there appears to be out of order VINs on at least 3 - 1973 2Ls built in Aug. & Sept. 1972, including mine - which are documented at that link, but summarized as follows:

4732901102 - built 9/72 (lives in Anaheim Hills CA near me, formerly in OR &/or ID)

4732901650 - built 8/72 (lives outside of Atlanta with ME733 on here)

4732901954 - built 8/72 ?? (mine in Orange CA)

So - did VW-Porsche actually build 914's out of VIN order in early 1972 for the 1973 MY (&/or any other time)? confused24.gif
... or is the 01102 VIN sticker's date wrong? confused24.gif
... or something else? confused24.gif

I'd ask PCNA what their records & Kardex on my 914 says, but they're so F'ed-up that it would be totally unreliable, as discussed earlier in this thread & on another regarding my COA problems at the O&H Forum.

When I was initially checking with PCNA's Customer Care Dept. on whether or not my HO (battery/fuel lines) & BO (Fuchs 2L Alloy Wheels) Recalls were ever done on my 914, their gal there said that:

1. It was first sold in Sept. 1973 - over a year after it was built & highly unlikely with the 2.0s being such a hot seller in 73 & 74!

... BTW - she also said it looked like a 9/72 build date on the Kardex microfilm, but after looking at my sticker, it's easy to see how that could have been misread as a 9 rather than 8, when the Kardex was filled out by hand at the factory.

2. That the sale was in Connecticut - not California, as my registration indicated!

... BTW - my initial Calif Registration from 12/26/75 indicated 11/9/72 as the first sold date in CA, which PCNA supposedly did change after I emailed a pic of the reg. card.

3. In my ongoing COA battles with them, PCNA insists on 2 separate COA's & my 3rd request to have them correct it - that "for my 914 only" apparently - that the #31 interior is "Black" - not the actual Beige as on my car & despite the fact that several other COAs which I've found online correctly list #11 as Black & as both #11 & #31 are listed in the period documentation for Porsche+Audi dealers in the 1970-76 MYs.

This is also a side discussion with pix of those documents at the above noted Build Date Question link to the O&H Forum.
Tom_T
A few more rust assessment pix from mid-Feb. - last time I could have the 914 out to work on it without rain or the wife's honey-do list interfering .... dry.gif

Pass Longs & minor rust issues at jack tube/support & rear sill support area:

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More next post & then some others coming after this weekend.
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Tom_T
Rust damage dug out behind Driver Door below sail:

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WTF.gif is that white rubbery plastic stuff I found between the body skind in the "hole" here???? confused24.gif

... couple more of this spot at next post ....
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Tom_T
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... next post with last 2 pix of this spot before ....
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Tom_T
.... pix of same spot with measurements before I took a screwdriver to it for reference .....

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^ Good shot Tom!!?? blink.gif wacko.gif

... Sunny weekend coming up - wifey leave me to my 914 pleeeeez!
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Dave_Darling
QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jan 21 2010, 11:54 AM) *

So - did VW-Porsche actually build 914's out of VIN order in early 1972 for the 1973 MY (&/or any other time)?


Yes, all the time. We've had several other posts about this phenomenon in recent months.


The white stuff you noticed may very well be factory seam sealer.

--DD
EdwardBlume
welder.gif welder.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif welder.gif welder.gif Get 'er done!
Tom_T
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Mar 18 2010, 11:28 PM) *

QUOTE(Tom_T @ Jan 21 2010, 11:54 AM) *

So - did VW-Porsche actually build 914's out of VIN order in early 1972 for the 1973 MY (&/or any other time)?


Yes, all the time. We've had several other posts about this phenomenon in recent months.


The white stuff you noticed may very well be factory seam sealer.

--DD


Dave - that's what's left after I dug out it in there solid to see if rust was below, which it was as seen in the pix.

Could that be the filler stuff that they injected into some/all 914 body cavities? confused24.gif
.......... I think their trade name for it began with a "P" IIRC
... or what dealers injected as rust proofing? confused24.gif
....... mine has dealer undercoating applied to the pan, but seems odd to fill for an originally CA sold new 914!

... & how would one tell the difference between the factory injected vs. aftermarket stuff? ... if you can tell?? confused24.gif

Whichever it was - obviously it did NOT work! dry.gif
Tom_T
QUOTE(RobW @ Mar 19 2010, 05:49 AM) *

welder.gif welder.gif smash.gif smash.gif smash.gif welder.gif welder.gif Get 'er done!


Thanx for the encouragement Rob - but with my limited skill set & tool bin, space, time, etc. - I'm not going to tackle this body work (rust & accident repairs).

So - since it's currently not running nor registered to take it around to shops - I'm trying to assess & get enough pix to see what needs done, & then take those around to get a body shop that knows 914s which does EXCL CW level work to do it for me - preferably in my local SoCal area & with a Cellette Bench to pull this sucker out!! ... All reccos, references & inquiries welcome! biggrin.gif

Then I myself can do detail work, parts restoration/replacement, dis/re-assembly, etc. on it before/afterwords, & be the "project manager" to direct everything that needs outsourced! biggrin.gif

And before any more young buck yahoos here want to get on & diss me for not doing the work myself, or question my sanity - do NOT! You're not my wife, I'm cutting the checks - not you, & I know the limits of my skill set, tool bin, tiny garage, lack of major shop equipment, training/experience, time, etc. to do this type of work - all of which would cost me more than sending it out to be done right the FIRST time. But just because some folks separate the $5-10k for outside paint & bodywork as $5-10+k of shop equipment - doesn't mean that you're not upside down either! dry.gif

Short & simple - I want it done right & purr-fect to an as-original/as-new state as I can get it, & yes - it will be several years before values catch-up to the costs to do so. At 57-58 I'm not looking to make a 2nd career/hobby of ongoing restorations to justify buying all that shit, & don't need the arguments from the wife on "you're getting what"!? My goal is to get to enjoy driving.gif it again before I'm too old & decrepit to do so!!!! biggrin.gif

However, CONSTRUCTIVE & HELPFUL comments are ALWAYS welcome! biggrin.gif
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Tom_T
idea.gif

Well, I think I may have figured out how I got rust eating away at the underpan at the passenger side steering rack strut, after it went into storage "clean & rust free" in May 85, after a rustoration 3 years earlier!

In looking through my old service records from the late 70's & early 80's - I noticed that I had the window washer fluid tack replaced because it had cracked & was leaking, as well as a couple of other times the hoses were replaced for leaking. In addition, as I've been stripping the old gal down for the resto, I've found that under the shrunken cowl seals were rusted through at the joints.

So those 2 sources of water/washer fluid down into the bottom of the fuel tank compartment below the gas tank, eventually ate its way through over the 25 years sitting unchecked in storage in my garage! dry.gif

The other unexpected rust problem was on the engine firewall & ledge - where my early engine lid drip tray (without the longitudinal ribs adding rigidity) warped between the front 2 end & middle mount ppoints, allowing twin waterfalls down onto the heat/sound pad on the firewall, whose open backed sisal held the moisture neatly against the firewall & engine shelf to also eat away at those areas over time. sad.gif

The past 25 years of neglect didn't help the situation either - letting things go unchecked & unremedied for so long! headbang.gif

So I guess that adds two more suspect areas & causes to check when one is evaluating a 914 for purchase! dry.gif

RobW & others - I'm leaning more to the self-help solution, & expanding my skills & tool bin to accomplish this rustoration & body repair work - or at least more parts of it than I originally intended to do! smash.gif sawzall-smiley.gif stirthepot.gif welder.gif wacko.gif
... I'd need to det a MIG/TIG Welder & learn welding though! welder.gif
Tom_T
The following pix posts are some more condition evaluation pix added for the "Tremendous Trio" of Andy, Kent & Jim FYI, & we'll talk & get together here soon ....

(Other prior pix started at my post #62.)

Porsche Tech Svc Bulletin Fuel Pump Relocation & rust thru at Steering rack R strut beyond:

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Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf Rusted at pix:

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Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf Rusted at pix - continued:

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Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf Rusted at pix - continued:

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Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf Rusted at pix - continued:

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Battery Tray (removed), Support & Inner Wheelwell/Sidewall Area:

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> looks like there may be right rear long rust issues below the above & following posts pix rust thru holes?


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Battery Tray (removed), Support & Inner Wheelwell/Sidewall Area pix - continued:

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More Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf at Right/Pass Side Rusted at pix - continued:

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More Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf at Right/Pass Side Rusted at pix - continued:

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More Lower Firewall & Engine Shelf at Right/Pass Side Rusted at pix - continued:

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Tunnel Rust @ Access Ports:

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Firewall Reinforcement Plate at Clutch Cable per Porsche Tech Svc Bulletin (TSB) & Kit:

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Rear Trunk Floor Rust Wire Wheeled & Temporary Coated with Wurth Zinc Rich Primer:

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Rear Trunk Floor Rust Wire Wheeled & Temporary Coated with Wurth Zinc Rich Primer - continued:

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Pedal Area:

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Pedal Area & Driver Floor Pan with Orig L80E Paint over Tar Pad - continued:

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Pedal Area & Driver Floor Pan with Orig L80E Paint over Tar Pad - continued:

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Passenger Floor Pan with Orig L80E Paint over Tar Pad:

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Pass Rear Door Jamb with top rust spots:

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Pass Front Door Jamb & Cowl Joint beyond, & Pass Sill:

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Pedal Area & Driver Floor Pan with Orig L80E Paint over Tar Pad - continued:

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Tunnel Clutch Tube Fix - Not Sure if this was an official TSB - But will want tube rewelded & reinforced inside the tunnel, & these tunnel-side cut welded/patched closed:

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Front Wall with Driver Side Crash Damage:

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Front Wall & Back Braces etc with Driver Side Crash Damage - continued:

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Driver Rear Door Jamb with top rust spots:

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