I am going to install my 25 row Earls oil cooler over the 4th of july and I am looking for some more ideas, tip and tricks.

I plan on using a wafer adapter to keep my filter in the stock location. I will also install a thermostat and a fan. I will most likely mount it under the rear trunk.

I'd like to see some pictures of what others have done. Experinces on the wafer adapter vs relocating the oil filter and what thermostats are being used. I've seen the Pelican Article.

thanks
-Rob

Cooler under left side of trunk. I have a very low airdam in the front with not much air going under car, so installed a scoop in the left rocker panel with a 3 inch duct for the cooler. Got rid of the Home Depot cowl and fabbed one out of sheet metal. I also used the sandwich plate adapter. The one I used has a thermostat built in.

more pics

What engine? Is this the small filter behind cylinder #6, the stock filter on a six, or are we talkin' a four cylinder car? Perhaps there's something useful here in any event. As you can see the 993 doesn't have a console mounted cooler like earlier motors. Instead there's a small filter there. Mocal thermostat...

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Note: I took off the fan BTW. It cools just fine by convection.

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Note: This is an auxiliary cooler. The main cooler is front mounted. The original Earl's cooler (above) sprung a leak (7 yrs later) so I replaced it with a B&N cooler with slightly better BTU removal.

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More light...
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I'm about to add a transaxle oil cooler behind this one in a couple of weeks so I'll have to add a fan to do them both. I've used -10 plumbing. The trans cooler will use -8. Hope that helps.

Good Luck!

Hey Elliot, I am going to be installing a cooler similar to yours. Where did you get the rocker panel duct, and what kind of difference did you see in oil temps?
Zach

I don't think I have any pictures but my 2316-210 cooled just fine from a full flow -10 hosed routed to the back where I had a 2nd gen RX-7 cooler.

Since I ran a Tangerine exhaust there was a big open spot behind the transmission. Cooler had the internal thermostate and never got above 200 even beating the snot out of it at the track in the summer.

I DO NOT like the sandwhich method of routing to an oil cooler. Only getting a small percentage of oil gets cooled. Plus getting a short enough filter to get by the clutch cable / speedo cable is a pain.

The PO of my car installed a front-mounted oil cooler. I have the sandwich plate thermostat. All components are mocal. i don't have heat in the car, and aux oil cooler lines run to the front trunk through where passenger-side heat tubing would be.

i was going to take the oil cooler out as i've been assured the stock oil cooler is sufficient, but i decided to just drive it as-is for awhile. Well, the car runs very cool. I have never seen my oil temp gauge deflect more than 5 degrees, and my temp compensated CHT gauge never gets above 300 deg F, and that's 5th gear on the highway during an 80 degree day.

I decided i'm keeping the oil cooler and i'll just install heat on the driver side. Maybe someday i'll reroute the oil lines so i can get the pass plumbing hooked up too.

I think an aux oil cooler is a great mod that's short money and really reduces the heat cycle stress on our aircooled engines.

i'll snap some pics later on tonight to show you the install.

i have a mocal sandwich plate and the standard mahle filters fit just fine

my engine is a 4 cyl 2056. I was told by Rich at HPH that the new Mahle filters are shorter than they used to be and they fit better with a sandwich adapter.
thanks for the replies and keep 'em comming

I've done this twice, works "ok" for street, but if you plan on track or bigger motor I'd do front.

Orange car I went maybe one size too small on the cooler 9 row maybe? Ducting was for mock up made a small difference.

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Plate adapter with built in thermo, everything was ordered through BAT.

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Ferg

that the sandwich solution should not be the primary cooler. Some of them even raise your oil pressure a smidge. But an auxiliary cooler it makes a 15 degree-F difference in my temps. I have a truly big cooler up front that works just fine most of the time. If I were still in San Francisco it would be fine for everywhere but the track. But in the deep south summer temps are brutal, especially in the city for a street car.

That sandwich cooler is cooling liquid oil rather than the oil-foam cooled by the front cooler... more effective heat transfer.

What is the alternative to a sandwich adapter?

I have a sandwich adapter on my car and have been trying to figure out where to relocate my aux cooler as well. Rear fender well is ineffective. Watching this thread for ideas.

This is a picture of my oil cooler set-up, it's a large Setrab cooler with a pull through fan designed as the primary oil cooler for my car. This is for a 4 cyl car with the CFR header that exits on the opposite side so no hot exhaust below this cooler, I am still working on ducting some cool air to the top of the cooler.

Here's my set-up: Full flow oil, remote filter, by-pass thermostat and simple oil cooler. It all sits on the right side of the transmission since the left side is taken up by the Tangerine exhaust. It's only for street use but I've never seen the oil temperature exceed 2/3 scale on the gauge. That was on a 90+ degree day, stop & go traffic. It's never exceeded half-scale under full load pulling steep hills on the same 90 degree day. The next step would be to add a draw through fan if I needed to. Normally the oil temp gauge runs well below the middle.

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Here is my front cooler setup, built for hot climate track use. The fab work was done by Ottos years ago and it has worked beautifully. Obviously the top shroud piece (cover) is removed in some of the pics. I was fixing a broken rivnut inside the enclosure.





Front intake - fairly large. I do not have a pic of the exit underneath, but it is sizable.



Here is the actual cooler, which I purchased from Mazdaspeed Motorsports (used to be MazdaComp) as it fit the dimensions of the Ottos shrouding. Various other companies make similar units of course.



The thermostat is a Troutman but I don't see a pic handy of that. Here is what the setup looks like from above when all put together. As you can see it occupies a significant portion of the trunk. This works for me since I used that Patrick/FuelSafe cell in the stock location vs. a cell on the trunk floor:

zx-niner, wow that is clean. Talk to me a bit about your full flow system. I was toying with this idea, but I don't know much about it.

Where is you filter mounted? Looks like it is attached to the head; what remote mount did you use? and did you use the CB performance oil thermostat?

You guys have a lot of nice looking oil cooling systems. Thanks for sharing I am getting a good picture of what I need to do.

Those of you that went to a full flow system, how did you do it? I am planning on just using a sandwich adapter...
Zach

a REAL GT Cooler

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a Replica GT Cooler

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the Replica GT Cooler under a RX-7

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Here is a shroud I made for a front cooler (didn't have much room up there with the fuel cell)

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On my newest car I will use the GT Shroud

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Here is the 993 Oil Console that someone else mentioned and where it mounts to replace the stock Oil Cooler on a -6 ( This Console can be used on other 6 cylinder motors besides the 993)

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I have the same set-up on a 2056. The cooler works great on the streets in the Arizona heat (110F) oil temp about 220F

Bill

Can anyone fill me in on going to a full flow oil system?

For a -4 or -6?

For a 4

thanks..

A member on club was/is selling their ride on ebay, and they had this pic of a very nicely installed front-mounted oil cooler. Not sure if it's full flow or not.

Here's the listing (no affiliation):
http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=214924

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I don't have pics, but I installed a 96-plate with an electric fan. it dropped my temps >20 degrees!

Where did you place the cooler?

-Josh2

near the tranny, but, unlike the one above(post #10) I didn't mount it parallel to the trunk, it's at an angle to let more oil stay in the cooler and to let more air above it... the back bracket is lower... I'll try to remember to snap some pics

went out and snapped a couple pics...

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I am getting clooser to installing my oil cooler. I am now gathering my last few parts and am wondering if those with a fan on the cooler are using a tempature switch to turn the fan on? And what switch is being used?
I don't want to put a switch on the dash or even worry about turning the fan on. So a switch that is controlled by the oil temp is what I am looking for.
The pelican article list several switched, but after aquick web search the switched no longer seem to be avaliable.
thanks
-Rob

I went switched, not thermostat. 1 less thing to fail... where I am only in the coldest weather would you want it turned off... so it just stays on... I put the switch in the engine bay. if the car is running, the fan is on... I didn't want it to try and cool oil that is already too hot. and a thermostat is one more thing to fail.

Elephant sells an adjustable fan switch (160 to 200 F). In use here on a 3.2. This car a factory -6 that I didn't want to hack up. This is just a street car so cooling requirements are not so high. Seems to do well. Temp measurements using an infrared thermometer are erratic, but there seems to be 20F difference in vs out.

I like that mounting, but don't you lose the raintray?

No rain tray on a factory 6.

duh, I knew that. idk what I was thinking.

For Papa Smurf, we have the cooler mounted to the floor in the front trunk, with the air coming in the front bumper, through the shroud, through the cooler.

Pros and cons -

Pro - the air is heated AFTER it is leaving the front compartment space, so the shroud, and hence the front trunk, do not get hot.

Con - In effect, as in any 914 GT cooling set up, you are forcing hot air under the front of the car creating lift - exactly opposite of what you want in a race car. I have really started to notice the lack of downforce I have. For a street car, no big deal, but for a race car....not good.

I am considering moving this cooler set up to Huey (street car) so the front trunk area does not get so hot. For Papa Smurf, I am thinking of putting a normal front mounted cooler, and ducting into the wheel wells (similar to how a 911 cooling works)

this set up works really well. Engine is a high compression 2.2 with 200+/- hp, redlines at 7300 rpm. Both Nadine and I have driven it on the hottest days at the track, back to back runs, and temp never got above 200.

Pics:

EDIT #1: Added picture and filter part number

EDIT #2: This location works great for a four cylinder car. However, putting even the biggest cooler (12" x 11" Setrab for example) under the trunk will work for around town when running a 3.0 six, but not so much at the track.

I've used the Derale Atomic Cool on 2 different application mounted next to the transmission with excellent results. There was at least a 20 deg drop in oil temperature if not more. What's nice is that the kit comes with a temperature switch.

I use the relay to enable the fan off of the + side of the coil. Main power for the fan comes direct from the battery with a waterproof fuse holder.

The sandwich adapter has a simple bimetallic spring that allows oil to flow once it reaches 180F. I also modified the oil filter mount to eliminate the spring loaded ball (so oil doesn't bypass through it due to the increased pressure drop of the oil cooler) and use a Baldwin B228 filter with an internal relief. It is the same length as stock, but a smaller diameter to clear the engine bar. (Save your breath, yes the filter has less area than the factory filter. It is more than sufficient for regular oil changes )

Here's the parts list from my Summit order:


QTY 2 - Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, Straight, -8 AN Hose Barb to Male 3/8 in. NPT, Brass, Natural, Each

Part Number: AER-FBM1206


QTY 1 - Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, 90 Degree, -8 AN Hose Barb to Female -8 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each

Part Number: AER-FBM1533


QTY 1 - Fitting, Hose End, AQP Socketless, 120 Degree, -8 AN Hose Barb to Female -8 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue, Each

Part Number: AER-FBM1543


QTY 1 - Hose, AQP Socketless, Rubber, Blue, -8 AN, 10 ft. Length, Each

Part Number: AER-FCV0810


QTY 1 - Temperature Controlled Sandwich Adapter, Oil Filter, Sandwich, Aluminum, Natural, 3/4-16 in. Thread, 3/8 in. NPT Inlet/Outlet, Each

Part Number: DER-15702


QTY 1 - Derale Cooling Products Atomic-Cool Remote Fan Mounted Fluid Cooler, Tube-Fin Type, Aluminum, 9.375 in. x 12.75 in. x 4.313 in., -8 AN Inlet, Outlet

Part Number: DER-15950


QTY 1 - Relay, Starter/General Use, 30 Amp, Single Pole, Each

Part Number: VIA-80237


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Oil cooler is installed. I mounted it under the rear trunk, ran the cooler lines through the engine compartment, added a thermostaticly controlled fan.
I am able to keep my oil temps down around 180 to 190 with the fan running. I pulled the fan fuse and noticed the temps climb into the 210 range. I am pleased with the outcome.
Oil cooler:
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Lines passing into the engine compartment:
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Mocal adapter:
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My next part of the project will be to add a small LED in the oil temp gauge to indicate when the fan is on. But it may be a while....

Heres a hardline setup I made for a 912E... The customer wanted the stock front mount 911 oil cooler setup. Used a Mocal sandwich thermostat.

I dont like the idea of dumping hot air from tehoil cooler back in to the engine bay, that adds hot air to the cooling system and air intake. the idea is to dump the heat from the oil outside of the engine bay. Not put it back into the engine.

that is very nice

That is one of the best looking setups I have seen on a 4 cylinder !!!

I am building a carbed 2.0 4 cylinder GT replica and want to run a small 'front' oil cooler between the bumper and valence to 'complete' the GT look (yes even though it is a 4 cylinder) and would love to have a setup like this!!!

What size thread is that thermostat you used?

It was the Mocal BSP thread, which I drilled and re-tapped to an M22x1.5, just the right amount of material to get away with it. I used the early/small 911/9146 case fittings. The tubing is all 22mm (.875) OD.

I like this setup from a convenience and compactness standpoint.

What would people think about cutting some sheet metal away and ducting the waste air from the cooler directly down and under the motor with a shroud?

-Josh2

I think the important part is to make sure that hot air is not going into the combustion chamber, so ducting it out the bottom should be ok.

The fan is exiting up here. The fan is 20% less efficient in push-mode according to the manufacturer. Until I learned that I considered ducting down and using that air as input to the heat exchangers since the engine came with block-offs. I balked at the cost of custom HE's and just run MSDS headers. Don't need heat in So Cal anyhow.

a little follow up:
Before I installed the oil cooler I was seeing engine temps climb into and past the 220 degree mark on my commute home. Yesterday afternoon I had my first commute with the oil cooler and my oil temps never climbed more than a needle width above 180 degrees. I am seeing a 40 degree difference!

It seems that the oil takes a little longer to heat up to operating tempratures and my over all oil pressure is higher with the cooler oil temps.

now I am wondering if my oil pressure is too high. My gauge is pegged at 80psi until I reach the 180 temps then I see 60+ psi on the freeway at 3400 rpm. Idle oil pressure is 20psi. I am thinking of playing with the relief springs to see if I can drop it a little. I've got the long relief valve and stiff spring at the first by pass and I don't remember what spring plunget I have at the rear bypass.

I guess my question on this post is do I need to lower my oil pressure or am I ok? Also does one of the oil by-passes controll over all oil pressuse or do they work togeather? Am I worried about noting?

thanks
-Rob

..............I think you are not going to fine tune your oil system and get a much better result than you already have....The general rule of thumb is 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1000 RPM,s. Having 20 psi at idle with the engine hot is fine. The high side of 80 psi ...until temps reach 180 + is good also. keeps you from hammering on it until the engine is hot...a good thing.(at 3400 rpm) you have 60 psi.....your just a little high at this rpm but nothing to worry about at all....as your rpm,s reach 5000 I,m betting you do not have 100 psi., probably only 60-70. I think its far more important to have good idle oil pressure, as the engine sees a lot of time there., and you don't want it low., and if the TEMPERATURES get really hot (ambient air) the CRANKCASE expands and oil thins out dropping PSI....I think you are good to go as is.

I finished my Setrab with fans last night, under the rear trunk. Took it for a quick spin, no leaks, and the fans were working when I got home.

Going to take it for a longer drive this afternoon - one that had my oil temps at 240 earlier in the summer. Hopefully, now they will be at 220 or lower, given everyone elses experiences - and 220 is fine.

It was 93 during my 30 mile test. Prior oil temps were around 240 on ~85 degree days. Today I kept RPM between 3500 and 4500 to make sure the oil would get hot.
The oil never got over 200 today!!! 40 degrees difference.