I ground down the welds a little, got it in primer and re-drilled the holes... The 14ga boxed in the mount a little. Should be plenty strong now...

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I also moved my urethane mount to the sides. I need to fab a big round plate to sandwhich to the bar...

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Here is the only pic I have of the engine installed. No intake or exhaust and a rag covering. Look how tiny it is....

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I like the motor mount reinforcements! Probably overkill, but overkill works!

I started mocking up the intake and exhaust. Here's some pics of the almost complete engine in the bay. Sure fits nice...

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Not exactly sure what I will do with the WG dump. Notice the 3 bung holes for multiple O2 sensors...

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I also need to clock the turbo to its final position. The only piece I can't change is the drain line clearance. I can't put the turbo drain exactly on the bottom. It will get clocked to the 5 O'clock position. I'm using a Semi Truck 4 inch flex pipe for the exhaust...

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Few more pics of the engine bay...

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That is one FUNKY exhaust... What material is that made out of? Doesnt look weldable (although im sure it is).


Im just curious.. Why Chevy orange for the engine bits? You gonna repaint your car orange or like the contrast?


I like the wastegate dump where it is (Or route it just before the rear wheel ).

The flex line is from a Big Rig. It is spiral lock steel. Very thin, weld with care.

I love Chevy Orange! I am considering the Red Baron theme So the orange will work good with it.

Either I leave the dump there or tie it into the exhaust...

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Well if you make the rest of the exhaust out of regular steel you could easily tie it into the exhaust later if/when you find out that its loud as f*&*...

Love the Baron theme!

If you go black/orange you would be opposite of my color scheme! (orange/black).
So you know what direction I vote for

Yes, The flex will be cut back and tied into a 4" mandrel bent 90, then to my muffler and another 90 turned to the rear. Only 2 bends in my exhaust. I may make the second one a 45 if it looks right.

Since I got laid off. I'm staying busy. The PO left me the piece of the firewall cut out for the V8. I spent some time welding it back together. While I was at it, I made an aluminum plats to mount my ECU and misc devices. I also cut a hole for the wiring gromet left over from the Cosmo Turbo (donar car).

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It still needs some grinding and finishing but it will do for now. I still have to pull the car back apart and snad blast it after I get it running...

I welded some mounting tabs to hold this plate. I painted it orange for Andrew...

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[quote name='kg6dxn' date='Apr 4 2011, 05:11 PM' post='1453714']
Since I got laid off. I'm staying busy.


Now I understand how you're making so much progress. Sorry to hear it though.

I'm really enjoying watching Sasquach come together. It's looking great

Yea, it sucks. First time I've been laid off in 20 years...

My right hinge pivot broke too. the bolt sheared off. The PO Brazed the pivot on, real crappy. Used my air chisel to pop it off. I had to drill it out and weld a metrix nut on the back side.. Grond off all the brass and welded it back on. I stole a pivot bot from the red car in the garage...

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Good your keeping busy Mike! Went throu a short stretch of being without work a few years back. Drove me nuts! Of course it didn't help that I didn't have a teener to work on at the time . Must be why I always seem to have 4 on hand now huh

This is exactly what Dave (Arkitect) needs to do.


Oh and I like orange

Deciced to build a shift rod today. The design concept is similar to the J West system. Much props to J West but I am a CSOB. The oil pan is in the way of a striaght shot to the shift console. My design includes 2 U Joints and a bent rod. On my other tranny (this one is for mock up only) I have dual bushing. One in the stock location and one on a custom bracket at the rear of the console. Just as in the J West design, the dual bushings hold the rod from flopping around and allow the use of the rear U Joint. My system is built with 5/8", 0.120 wall DOM. I had a long piece laying around. The U Joints were $7 on eBay. Remember I'm a CSOB.

First thing was to drill and tap two holes in the U Joint. I tapped for 1/4-20 thread. This will be the connection point to the front rod and the rear console rod. The bolts will allow adjustment and fine tuning the gear selection.

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I had to hone the inside a little to fit the DOM. I had solid rod too but it is much heavier Than the tubing.

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Next I had to figure how far off the rod was. From the console, I had to offset 3" around the oil pan and low oil sender.

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I then bent and welded the U Joints on to the DOM.

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Looks like even penitration...

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Little sanding and paint (orange for Andrew). I used a self volcanizing rubber to cover the joint. Before I install for good, I will pack the tube with marine grease. Since it is hollow. it should hold quite a bit and should flow a little as the engine bay gets warm.

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close up of the rubber. it it not sticky, but it does stick to itself. Water proof, oil resistant and heat resistant...

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Here's a pic of it in place. I still need to fabricate the 10 inches the mounts at the shift console. I will wait until I install the good trany after Dr. Evils Disco clinic. I should also mention that I have a sperical bronze bearing at the fire wall.

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Thats a nice looking setup! Dont quite understand filling the tube with grease though. Link to the joints?

And again. I like orange

Today I tackled the wiring a little. I removed my engine tray, since I don't need it. It left my bulkhead wiring exposed and looking like crap. I decided on a bulkhead connector like a modern car. I'm sure Project Anklebiter will go with a similar system. Here is the before pic. Old factory 914 broken grommet...

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Here is the after pic. Simple, weatherproof bulkhead connector. This alows me to remove the rear harness and get it out of the way during fabrication.

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Keep it up Mike! Looking great

I had to cut the firewall and tunnel a little to make room for the connector and allow removal when needed...

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Cut some pieces of fire cloth to keep the wires safe...

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Welded up the bulkhead with 14ga plate. Might be overkill but the seat belt bolt is close by...

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So the bulkhead connector was $25 online. I have the correct crimper tool ($149) already but there are cheap ones online too. After crimping, I soldered the crimp to make it last longer than the car...

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Make sure you put on the little dildos before you crimp the connection...

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I removed the large red wires from the harness. The ones that connect to the battery and alternator. My battery is in the front, so I pulled the red wires back to the fuse panel. I will route them to the battery up front. When I was done with the 914 wires, I had 8 empty positions. I filled them with spare wires. I will use them for something I'm sure... Notice in this picture, the starter wire was split, shrink tubed and crimped to 2 connectors. This is an acceptible method of making larger wires fit in smaller connectors. I will use a relay in the back to make sure I don't over heat the connection...

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I plugged them together to amke sure all the wires match up...

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So, here is the rear harness. I do need to make some repairs to the tail light portion and connect the engine wiring to my EFI and misc sensors...

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Here it is plugged in at the firewall. It's going to look great once I get it dressed up...
That's it for now...

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Cool...nice job... DUDE! where did you get the crimps, and crimping tool....LOL?

Thanks...

Steve

The crimps come with the bulkhead connector kit (eBay). The crimper I have had for 15 years, from when I needed it for work.

Figures, the wiring guy would show off his wiring skills ......





Ok im just jealous! That is awesome!!!! Keep up this awesome work!!

I love those weather pac connectors.

A great build, this will be an awesome car.

Are you going to be ready for summer?

John

If I find a job (got laid off 2 weeks ago) I can have it done by summer. At least be able to drive it and work the bugs out. Then I get to take it apart and paint it. We shall see... Running low on $$$. So I'm doing what I can without spending a lot.

Good luck on your job search.

At least you are putting your extra time to good use.

You have a lot of unique and inventive things on this car already.

John

The real wiring challenge has begun. So far I have repaired and modified the rear 914 harness. I have disected the RX7 (Cosmo) harness. I have the ECU harness with it's miryad of wires... I decided to use the Mazda engine fuse/relay panel and adaptit to my needs. It satrted by cutting it loose from the main harness and blueprinting the connections. So far I have the fuel pump and starter relays configured and the ECU power fuse. The fuse panel connections were "Hot all the time". I am using 2 Bosch relays as a master ignition control. The Bosch relays turn on the ATC fuses when the ignition is on. The Starter and fuel relays along with the Maxi fuses are Hot all the time and activated only when needed. The ECU will control the fuel pump and I have a power bypass in the cabin if needed. The starter relay is set up just like a hot start kit. I managed to get the engine sensors wired to the engine and routed into the rear trunk; Where all the magic happens. I have not decided on my final spark ignighter setup. The factory uses wasted spark on the Leading spark plugs and discrete spark on the trailing plugs. The ECU should be able to accomplish this but I am considering an MSD. I can use 4 MSD 6AL units and have 4 coils and discrete spark to each plug. This set up would allow finer tuning of the leading and trailing sparks. My budget is very limited now so the MSD will have to wait. I am taking donations.
Here are some early progress pictures. If you are scared of wires, don't look!

In this pic, I have all the wires in the trunk. buried are my note book and Mazda wiring diagram.

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This is the engine with sensor connections in place. The wiring will get dressed up once I know they are correct...

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It is taking a long time wiring because a solder and shrink tube everything. I also am designing this to be removeable when I need to prep for paint.

Here is a quick pic of the fuse/relay panel. I used my label machine as I connect to the system...

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Well the ECU is 75% wired up. Still need the gauge wiring to the dash complete and some misc. I took a little break from the ECU and decided to fab up the alternator mount. Since I removed the A/C compressor, Power Steering Pump, Smog Pump and factory alternator it really cleaned up the front of the engine. The old alternator was a saddle mount and my 140 Amp Powermaster is not. So none of the factory stuff would work. I used some 1/4" steel I had laying around and made it to bolt to the existing studs on the engine. There was a massive cast aluminum bracked designe to hold the A/C and steering pump. I looked into modifiying it but it was a piece of shit. The Mazda alt pully was and easy swap from my GM V groove. Same I.D. and thread. I did realize that I don't have the curved tension bracket for my Alt so there will be some more work and a trip to the Junk Yard to pick one up.

So far I have 80 hours into rewiring this car. I under estimated the ammount of fab to go from a V8 to a Rotary. It looked so simple on paper...

Here's a couple of pics just for fun.

Mazda pully fit wo no mods...

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Bracket painted and then I had to clearance the top left bracket a little...

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Here is a pic of the Alt bolted in...

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I will post pics of the completed (or as much as can be) in a couple of days. I am still missing some parts but I still have lots that I can do beofre I run out of parts ad money...

Damn Mike. 80 hours for a guy who does electrical work... That is some serious wiring work. Thats one thing I havent tackled in my car and im not looking forward to...

140amp alternator? You going to run a stereo or do you just like juice?

Both. My stereo consists of a Kenwood deck, JL subwoofer in the passenger foot rest, Infinity door speakers and an amp. I have several to choose from. Rockford Fosgate Power 300, Kenwood KAC-923, Phoenix Gold ... I'm not sure which one I will use.

I like having on demand power from the alternator. Figure if my radio is blasting the amp could draw 30-40 amps. I have HID headlights, 35 Amps. My EFI 10-20 amps? Cooling fan 30 amps. Just with those loads my worst case is a 125 Amp draw peak. The alt I ran on my V8 most of the time was 85 Amps. This one cost me $125 from my FLAPS. Less than a dollar per amp and each Powermaster comes with a spec sheet. This one makes over 100 amps at idle. Top if off, it's chrome! Chrome makes cars go faster...

Good stuff! I've never been a fan of a "kickin" stereo, but your sounds mild. I have all the stuff for a mild stereo as well, but right now I have a deck and door speakers and stock speakers, last time I turned it on it kicked pretty good, but I typically dont drive with the stereo on.

Time for a wiring update. I have the ECU complete exept for the missing wide band O2 sensor and my VSS. It has some aux inputs and outputs that are undetermined right now. The gauge wiring is complete to a cannon plug in the rear trunk. I need some sensors to finish it off. When I sold my V8, I left the sending units in the engine.

The Rotary uses oil injection. similar to a 2 stroke but it is actually a 4 stroke engine. The purpose is to oil down the chamber walls a little. Just like a piston engine has oil splashing under the piston. This engine uses an electronic oil metering pump. Most tuners pre-mix the fuel and get rid of the pump. I found a controller for the EOMP in Australia. It is mounted on my dash and wires to the pump and the TPS. This controlller is yet to be wired up becaust I have an installation question. The builder in OZ has less then stellar customer service. I hope he checks his email in the next 2 weeks.

Here are some pics...

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The cannon plug in the center goes to the gauge sensors when I buy them...

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Here's another pic of the fuse panel...

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I installed a battery bulkhead connector for the main cable... Battery in the front trunk. Starter cable will connect to this terminal...

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Here you can see the coil packs too...

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I also fabed up a new throttle cable. I got some 1/16" SS cable and used some leftover teflon braided tubing I had. I pulled off the old ferrel that mounts to the tunnel. Pressed it onto the new tubing and covered it in shring tubing. I ran it wide into the hell hole to clear the heat from the turbo. I also fabed up a bracket to the intake. The intake side and pedal were completed with some left over Lokar parts. My cable is now 11 feet long. the teflon tube is smooth. All that's left to do is lube it up and strap it down to the hell hole...

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Hard to see the bracket I made but it is super cool and maybe the best piece of fab work on the car...

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Did a little work on the exhaust today. Welded my 4" 90 to my flex and added a V Band to the end. I'm going for the largest 914 exhaust award After welding and grinding, I put on a coat of 900 degree paint and wraped the tubing. I still need to get the muffler and turn down but this is a start...

Here are some pics...

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Double check my ID

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Now it's time to tackle my dash wiring. Between pulling my gauges, my Engman fuse panel and rewiring the rear harness... My dash is a mess!

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I cleaned up my gauge wiring. Got my Boost controller and Turbo Timer wired up too...

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