You can't "urbo" a 914

Fixed iT ThaT's funny shiT

UPDATE!

I landed a new job today! Now I can afford to finish this fucking project. Yay!

Oh, Here's a random pic for all you picture lovers...

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WOO HOO!!!

Congrats on the job!

Congrats Mike!!! That's awesome news!!!
Great progress thread, can't wait to see this thing running.

Thanks guys! My self worth was starting to suffer...

I did get a lot of work done in the last few weeks. I am very happy about that. There is now the slimmest of chances I can get it up to WCR this year. I'm not going to push it though. I don't want to bring a non driving car up on a trailer... Jamie...

Really ? 'cause my HID's draw 35_W_.
low sustained draw is one reason Priiius' have 'em.
They do have a bit of startup kick but it's momentary.
HID's run just fine on stock headlight wiring which can handle nowhere near 35A.
But maybe you have some kind of lights I haven't heard of...

You are correct. I miss spoke (wrote)...

P=IxE
70W(35Wx2)=?x13.5V
I=5.18 Amps

My lights draw 5 Amps.

Now my Hella 100W driving lights...
200W=?x13.5V
I=14.8 Amps

My high beams are 60W. If I have them all on I might hit the 35 Amp mark...

That's great news Mike.

Fixed iT ThaT's funny shiT . That won't be me this year. I go to great lengths to be remembered at each WCR Hopefully this year it will just be that I kicked your ass at the autox

I spent about 8 hours making this bracket out of a single piece of L channel and some 5/8 DOM. I wanted to use the serpentine belt tensioner. Seems to work good. It was a pain to get the alignment... The curve was easy. I cut the slot first. Then I cut off the inside piece. made some releif cuts in the main section and bent the channel. I welded it back up. Bent the inside curve piece and welded it on. smoothed it all out with a grinder.

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Then I got it installed. Of course I painted it orange for Andrew...

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I pulled out the 1/4-28 tap and installed the Zerk into my shift rod. I found the center and installed it there. Now I can pump into it and lube my U Joints. I should be able to do both at the same time this way and the tubular rod will hold extra grease. The rod is super light being hollow...

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Looks fantastic!!!

Well I'm mostly down to booring stuff and puch list items. The major stuff I still need are a clutch, air/water intercooler, Oil Cooler and lines. Time to save some money from my new job. My new Air Filter came in. Krusty won't like it because it's a K&N. 4 inch ID by 10 inches long. I have to get a 90 degree fitting to turn the filter in front of the turbo. Otherwize the filter will be half inside the cabin. I needed high flow for the inlet, that's why it's so massive.

Here is a pic of it stuck on the front of the turbo...

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Some of the little stuff... Turbo coolant lines. I need to fab a -4AN for the Oil supply and a -10AN for the drain. I worked on the fuel lines a little. Got the hard lines routed to the drivers side. Still need the final connection to the rail... I added a 150psi guage to my oil sender bung. These little engines run 85-120psi on the oil...

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I had to move my battery cut off switch to make room for my oil cooler. It was on the front bumper. Now it is on the cowl in front of the windshield. I ran a new main battery cable too. a 1/0 welding cable is pulled through my heater tube. Along with my #2 ground and my heater hoses. (see one of my old threads for info on my fresh air heater box). The cooler I'm running is a Setrab 25"x17" and will lay down right on the radiator with rubber spacers. It requires -12AN connections. More on the cooler when I get it mounted. I haven't decided the type or routing of the oil lines. I guess my choices are: SS Braided hose, Copper or Aluminum hard tube.

Anybody have an opinion on cooling lines?

Here's some pics...

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Here is a pick of my VW Jetta water valve. It is connected to the factory temp control slider...

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My starter cable routes from the cut off then to the battery. All other power is routed from the cut off to this 250 Amp fuse. This will give the system some protection from dead shorts.

The circuit path is: Battery, to Cut Off Switch, then 1/0 to starter.
Battery, to Cut Off Switch, then #2 to the 250 Amp fuse.

This set up does not kill the alternator but will isolate it from the battery and other electronics.

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Out of curiosity, shouldn't this be a "Yeti" build since it is white?

Maybe? But The car was named some 3 owners ago. Steve Malmz rescued it from a yard and some how it was nicknamed Sasquach. I went through all his old posts on this and the club site. The car was referred to as Sasquach and 914 Wide Body.

Got some more parts in today. My Setrab Cooler showed up. It's a littly dirty but it don't leak and it will clean up. I also got a great deal on an NOS Mocal thermostat. All these are -12 AN. I guess I willl go with SS Braided lines. This Setrab is huge! 25"x18". almost as big as my radiator 31"x19". I was goint to go smaller but my V8 with this radiator was steady around 165 degrees. This Rotary runs hotter than a V8 so the big rad and cooler should help to keep temps well within normal ranges...

Radiator...

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Oil Cooler...

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Here's what they looke like stacked. I need to rework the shrouding. The Cooler has a 3/8 rubber insulator between the Rad...

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Mocal Theromstat. Has a bypass until it reaches 180 then the bypass is fully closed. It does not cut off the Cooler, only give a shorter path back to the engine until full temp is reached. As is warms up, it slowly closes off the baypass...

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Now here's the F-ed up part. When I last dorve the car there was a bad rattle/bang in the front end. I jacked it up to check the ball joints but they were good. I figured I'd get back to it.

I found the source... The PPPPO used to race this car inan SCCA class. The fron end comes from a 930 Turbo. He used the 930 anti sway bar under the tank and "rigged" the mounting pivot. The rattle was the pivot ripping out of the inner fender and bouncing around. I have seen a reenforcement plate from a vendor around here. I need to track the piece down and weld it back into place. Not a difficult fix but it is a pain in the ass...

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More goodies. 4" aluminum elbow for the filter and my -4AN oil supply line for the turbo...

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Looking great Mike. I can't wait to go for a ride in that sucker

Not a 930 bar...

Look for the mounting plates from Engman Parts.

If anyone has looked at my radiator you would have noticed the PO made a wooden shroud for the dual fans. It was time to tackle this project. In order to fit my large oil cooler and close the hood, I needed to lower and lay the Rad back a little. the wooden shroud was elevating the Rad a little. Additionally the PO used spray foam to seal the bottom of the Radiator to the trunk. I started with some metal work in the trunk. The front area was hammered flat. The PO curled it up and filled the gap with foam. That lowered the system a little but the shroud was hanging it up still. I welded up a 1/8" steel frame and clad it with 20ga sheet. The bottom was set up with a 45 angle. This will be flat on the trunk bottom when installed. It should put the Radiator right where I need it. I was almost finished when my welder gun broke. The switch in the handle wont work. Now I need to find a new one since it does not look rebuildable.

Here is the cool wooden shroud...

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Here is my new steel shroud...

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Here's another pic of the bottom of the shroud... This will allow it to go lower in the trunk...

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Great stuff! Sucks about the sway bar... Should be a relatively easy fix, just time consuming...

Although the 4" exhaust looks kewl and will sound deep, you may run into an issue with engine temp unless the turbo you are using provides lots of back pressure. This is a problem with the newer diesel pick up guys, they go to 5" on their daily drivers and find that the engine actually runs on the cold side unless they are constantly draggin' around a 13,000 lb trailer. I'm not sure about the effect on this gas engine but a simple restrictor inside the pipe should fix any issues if it is a problem. Does anyone have any cfm numbers on this engine?

I don't know the exact CFM. I can tell you the engine consumes as much air as a 2.6L engine. Sometimes more. I would be happy if the engine runs cooler than normal as the rotary engines run hotter normal temps than most. This type of engine really benefits from lack of back pressure, especially with a turbo. Most RX7 guys run 3 inch or larger to get 500+hp. I will restrict it if needed.

You are certainly BIG on the exhaust, Especially with no muffler... But I dont think your going to run into any issues with that kinda setup..

its great to see such a nice rotor setup in a 914, i look forward to seeing the end result.

has the fuel rail, regulator and pump been upgraded or modified also?

Not yet but it's on the long list of crap to finish this project. Right now my problem is money. Since I was out of work for a month, all the bills got behind. Still playing catch up.

Ive been mostly working on the cooling system. I'm also rigging some NACA ducts for a cold air intake and cooling air for my water/air intercooler. Since my car is soooooooo far from stock, I'm not too concerned with cutting the body.

If you are a purest, don't read this thread... Maybe I should have put that comment in the first post???

What a great build, you have some skills man.

I think the rotary is a perfect fit for a light car like a 914 and I want to do one sometime.

I love the sound of a rotary more than anything else except maybe a Ferrari V12,
which is probably too long for a 914 and I hear their parts are hard to get

In 1970, Mazda teamed up with Belgium Racing to put a rotary engine into a
Chevron B16, which was a very light English, prototype race car. The rotary
in the car was so loud it made the plaster fall off the Chevron shop ceiling.

The car raced at Spa 1000km (15th overall), Nurburgring 1000km (10th overall
and second in class), and Le Mans (retired after an hour with carb problems).
This was the first rotary car ever to compete at Le Mans.

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http://www.historicmotorracing.co.uk/artic...sp?articleID=34

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http://www.mazda.com/mazdaspirit/rotary/mo...index05_01.html

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So anyhoo, there is a long history of rotarizing light sports cars. Let the pinky
benders eat your exhaust!

John

Thanks, I owe my training to my Dad and working in his Gas Station when I was a kid.


I'm wondering how well received this will be by my felow PCA members. I think they liked it with the V8 after they saw me keep up with a Turbo 911...

I found some California rust today. Mostly dirt and red primer but there is a pin hole in the jack post support. I wire brushed it, welded the rosettes on the stiffening kit and coated it with some primer. Call it good for now.

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Here's another picture of my sway bar mount. I was thinking of buying Engman stiffening parts but I have scrap 14ga steel and I will cut my own. That will save my $60 since I'm a CSOB 914 owner...

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Here's my CSOB piece. view of the back...

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A little welding, grinding and primer...

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I traced the pattern to weld onto the passenger side later...

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I have also been working on the oil cooler system. I have the largest oil cooler I've ever seen and it connects with -12 AN fittings. I bought some nylon braided hose because it's lighter and it will not poke you under your finger nails. If you have ever made braided hoses you know what I'm talikng about. I ordered 20 feet. I hade almost enough. I need a 1 foot piece with a 90 and straight fitting and I'll be complete. I installed Tee fittings in the front and rear. The front is to bleed air out. The rear is for my future oil accumulator. I ran the lines down the outer long, under the rocker.

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Been too long since an update. I tore my tranny apart at the Dr Evil clinic. Not all the way because the tranny was just fine. I had the Dr inspect my syncros and re-align the forks. I also changed all the seals and swapped the tail housing.

Working with the guy at SPEC Clutches (former 914 owner) and bought a Stage 3+ clutch. Should hold more torque than I have to provide and the + part is a streetable disc to go with it. I also comes with a NEW throwout bearing and tool.

This weekend I will tackle the exhaust and some "little things". Those things that get forgotten until the end of a project. If my AN stuff from Summit shows up, I will finish the fuel system too.

Here's some pics just for fun...

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Porsche content from SPEC's website...

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I have been getting my braided lines from www.aeroquip.cc You should check them out, awesome prices.

-Britain

I've used them and others. Summit usually has Aeroquip within a dollar or two of that site. I use Summit mostly because they ship from Reno and I have my delivery in 2 days ground. Save a lot on shipping. Most of my -12 is Areoquip while the other ones and smaller are Summit brand. The quality is just as good and the prices are much cheaper. Never had a leak or broken fitting.

Update. I worked 12 hours toady and got a lot done. My exhaust is done! I tied the wastegate into the exhaust. I paid close attention to the direction of the exhaust spiral down the main pipe. I tied in the WG so it will not disrupt the spiral and will flow better into the stream. I still need to cut the tip of the exhaust back a little but I want to see how it looks for a couple of days before the final cut.

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Money shot!

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I used a stock muffler bracket and gusseted it to hold the muffler, which is large! but light weight...

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Got my fuel lines and oil lines complete. I tied into my perviously installed aluminum hard lines...

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I started mocking up the mount for my Air/Water intercooler but ran out of welding wire

Much of my time was spent tightening bolts, changing gaskets, connecting hoses and the crap that I will forget to do later. Most everything was put in hand tight for fab purposes...

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I also started fabbing my shift linkage. The main rod was done when I got the engine installed. The front rod/shifter was done back when it have a V8. Here you can see my bracket and dual bushings. J West makes much better looking stuff but this is my getto trailer park CSOB version. It works the same...

When I get more welding rod I will complete the fab...

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I think HD sells mig welders. I will go tomorrow and see if the have some .030 wire. I'm exhausted! time for an ice cold beer!

My local HD doesn't sell MIG wire, I have to go to Lowes for metal supplies...Your's may be the same.