Its expensive.. These are more expensive than any Nickies cylinders to date when compared on a "per cylinder" price point. The cylinders themselves are super detailed and the work required to fit them is also extensive.

Sounds like you need that core built up to a JR28T.. Thats something I'd give you a deal on for your bad ass ride. :-)

Well obviously it's expensive. Nice things aren't cheap. Send me some info, and maybe we can chat when you have some free time. I've got the PERFECT test vehicle for that engine.

I'd like to know more about this -- I just acquired this same flat 6 Subaru engine with an automatic transmission plus a 5 speed. I am trying to find some direction on which way to go with this swap.

Finally coming to fruition!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry1720249

Figured I'd revive this thread just in case anyone in here missed the other one.

Wow, cool. That's going to open some doors. I still get messages from a lot of people, asking where to get things. Now I have a place to refer them.

Here is a screen shot of the new cable shift mount for the subaru 5mt that I'm almost done with. 1/4" and three bolts holding it to the housing... goodbye flex and slopy feel, hello crisp and solid shifting

Click to view attachment

Picture of the steel as delivered, everything is going well with the production run, I will get some more pictures at the end

Looking forward to more information as this progresses...

It's tough not to get to excited, though. I'm dreaming of a reliable 10lbs/hp. How much chassis reinforcement would you suggest for this application? I'm beginning to strip and do rust repairs on a 1974.

Thanks for posting, I’m pretty excited myself, just heading into the shop for the day going to try to get these cradles done by the end of Tuesday!

To your question, that really depends on how much HP you want to push, in your case a good 220-230hp setup. Though I have less first hand knowledge on that topic, I would suggest something like an engman kit and some of tangerine racings gear, both great 914world vendors (links below). If you were going for more, like 280-300 that’s when cage work may come into play. You may want to do a search to get more info, or others can pitch in with their opinions.

Inner Long Kit
Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit
***Inner Console Reinforcement (in my opinion a must as I’m 3 for 3 in 914’s I’ve been under that all have some form of weakness in the ears)

Also let me know if you need help deciding on an engine in that hp range as it provides the widest selection of engine options. For example for turbo’d you have a jdm ej20g through several years or any of the usdm ej20t engines will be great as well. Another fun option is the NA 6cyl eg33 or the ez30d, though, set up properly, they will put you up in the 230-240 hp range.

Thanks for the advice. You're right. My goal would be 225-250hp. I would prefer not to have a full cage. The strengthening bits you suggest seem prudent. I think my preference would be a turbo 4. Am I correct to assume they are lighter than the 6 cyl engines even including the associated additional plumbing/turbo? In your experience, what is average price for usdm ej20t and trans?

Not necessarily... for the eg33 yes I would guess the 4 cyl is lighter. That's because the eg33 is basically an ej22 with two more cylinders grafted onto the end. As a result I bet it will end up weighing slightly more than the turbo 4.
However the ez30 is a whole other beast. Perrin and outfront have said the engine is .7" or 1.5" longer than the 4cyl, I don't know exactly where they measure but the gist is Subaru has fit 6cyl in near the same footprint of the 4cyl. Now its really hard to find engine weight numbers but I would bet that the ez30 is going to be about the same overall weight as a turbo 4. I should also mention that the ez30 is incredibly reliable. It has a timing chain instead of the normal belt and can easily live up over 200k and is a little cheaper than most 4's.



Engines will run $1500-2000 for a good used one. Trans will be $1200-1700. For really clean/low mileage options of both it can be up above 2k.

Let me know if you would like help sourcing an engine with my kit. I just recently found a great ez30d at $1250 for a customer and I don't charge broker fee.

Hi Ian do you have some good links so i can do some homework on which 6cyl to decide is there one that have better options (ie variable valve timing, DOHC, ... ) and easier to get running ( efi wise) than the other ? I too is interested in your
kit but i dont have an engine yet to pull the trigger. Your engine/trans source is local to you ? Would they ship to Los angeles. Thanks so much. Ted

Probably the best place to start is the NASIOC forums. That's North American Subaru Imreza Owners ...something (www.nasioc.com). It's almost all four bangers, the motors that came in the Imprezas, but there's been quite a lot of EZ30 interest in their "conversions" forum, and it includes links to other places with more specific six cylinder engine info. The information at Outfrontmotorsports.com is general and correct, but is really dated. The company is active though, a leader and a great source for all kinds of engine swap things, especially important being aftermarket ECU's. I use one of theirs that came with an excellent base map already installed, and even a plug in engine harness that made everything pretty easy.

As a general suggestion about sixes I'd say stay with the EZ30 and EZ36 engines instead of the old SVX motors, which are now old, big, and heavy compared with the modern engines. I have a turbo four but am really really intrigued with the new sixes, in fact even bought a performance two in one out banana muffler to use on a six. Those engine's firing order is only two cylinders switched from the Porsche motors, so I suspect they'd even have that "porsche sound", especially if coming out of a Porsche car. The American motors are the EZ30D, whose heads have a single siamesedvexhaust outlet. The imported JDM is the EZ30R, distinguished by a black plastic intake manifold and a separate exhaust outlet for each cylinder. Stock horespower is similar for the two motors (I don't remember the numbers) and it's really easy to plumb the D motors exhaust, but you give up absolute power potential. The R sixes probably have more potential, but only if you intend to do serious engine modifications, your choice. Don't worry that much about drive by wire throttle bodies and valve and timing control on newer motors, that can all be either used with aftermarket ECU's or easily defeated substituting an earlier cable TB. For newer engines the stock ECU's are so complex you'll probably want to use an aftermarket ECU anyway.

The sixes are all naturally aspirated. For a n/a four banger stick with the SOHC 2.5's, the newer engines. The dual cam 2.5's (1995-1997 or something like that) are the engines with the head gasket problems, the SOHC engines pretty much solved that. If you get a good deal on a DOHC 2.5 it's easy to replace the head gaskets, and the Subaru valve grind gasket sets have upgraded metal head gaskets that also solve that problem. Easy to put in. The 2.5 engines have a lot more torque than the 2.0's, so are much better choices. My son has an lightweight autocross car with a "hybrid" motor, 2.2 heads on a 2.5 engine, STi pistons bringing compression back down to 9.6 with good flow from ported 2.2 heads. A good combination for a budget performance n/a engine. I prefer relatively stock motors, they have more than enough power for a street 914 and no problems with almost no maintenance. I'm kind of lazy, so it works for me.

One thing that will become apparent pretty quickly is how much the Subaru performance community resembles the old Small Block Chevy hot rod community. Lots of clueless kids, but at the core there are hard-core hot rod people, and I mean that as a Jim Hall/Carroll Shelby kind of compliment. Cool stuff available and and a lot going on. The fact that one of the big names in engine parts is Cosworth should tell you a lot about road race performance potential. You'll have fun.

DBCooper: You are right on, although I wouldn't rank a good eg33 below the EZ series of engines necessarily. if only for the sheer cost savings vs power it represents, I would wager it is the cheapest/highest stock HP subaru motor in existence. I also love the 2.2/2.5 Frankenstein motor you spoke about, great value/HP.

porsche913b_sp: Ill do you one better than links, below I've copied in an excerpt from an email i sent a customer on the different 6cyl options. My information has been gathered from sites like nasioc and RS25 verified by talking with subaru repair shops and tuners like perrin, outfront, and 42autosports.

FYI I'm compiling a massive amount of information like this for a page on my yet to be released website; dealing with engines, transmissions and other common questions/build options.


-NA 6 Option-

There are four feasible engines that can work in this category. I will try to shed a little light on each and rank them, from least to most recommended for use in the 914 swap. I should add that I’m less familiar with the upgradability of the 6’s than the 4’s. But in general it is much easier and cheaper to extract more power out of a turbo set up than an NA. So bear in mind that if you choose to go 6, its more of a dead end for upgrades (without a high relative cost), but then again they all have good power levels so you may not ever want more.

1. EZ30R, Found in the 2004–2009 Legacy 3.0R, Outback 3.0R and 2006–2008 Tribeca. This is basically a factory revamped version of the EZ30D. It has 245 chp stock and a wider upgrade path, generally turbo options, (people have taken it to 1100 hp). Also has VVL and AVCS (subaru’s variable valve timing) that helps to give a nice wide torque curve and 3 port exhaust heads. However this motor has a drawback, CANBUS Electronics. Basically what CANBUS electronics do is make the cars wiring a bit more simple and efficient for the OEM vehicle. The problem is it eliminates the option of a stock ecu swap, as it would require someone to take every piece of important electronic equipment and swap it into the new vehicle. The workaround is simple but expensive, an aftermarket ECU such as link or hydra at $2-3k will be necessary.
This option is my least recommended, this great engine comes at the expense of one of the biggest strengths of the Subaru conversion and that is the 914/Subaru relatively low cost to convert. The engine can be found for 2500-3000$ (plus $2-3k for ECU) used and provides great all around power mid and low rang hp/tq, basically the cost of the engine alone would be close to the cost of a complete conversion with a different engine choice (like the eg33 for example).

2. EZ36R, Found in the current generation of legacy, outback 2010+, and tribeca 2008+. This is the next step of the EZ engine series and basically a maxed out EZ30R. With 260 chp, and the same VVL and AVCS systems as the 30R, the engine is as good as it gets in regards to stock 6cly power. The drawback however is a big one; similar to the 30R it has CANBUS electronics. Also it’s got some insane geometry inside with asymmetrical connecting rods that make upgrades pretty much nonexistent. The big plus with this motor is the ability to run cheap 87 octane fuel and still get high HP numbers.
I would rank this engine tied with, or slightly ahead of, the EZ30R for the 914. The cost 3500-5000$ (+ $2-3k for ECU) is high but if you are going to spend the money to get the ECU why not get the one with higher HP and 87 fuel.

3. EG33, found in the Subaru SVX 1991-1997. This engine was Subaru’s second foray into the 6cly world, and a very interesting choice. It comes with 230 chp. Not nearly as technically advanced as the EZ series, and a bit larger but this motor does have several distinct advantages for the 914. First it has been around for a long time and the upgrade paths are more prevalent. Secondly, you will not have to deal with drive by wire and immobilized ecu issues. Finally, and most importantly this motor can be had for 500-1500 (though almost always north of 100k miles, as it’s up to 20 years old).
This is my second choice for the 914. It is a good, sturdy engine and ridiculously cheap for the power it provides but is pretty large and may require cutting of the rear trunk.

4. EZ30D, found in 2000-2003 outback and legacy’s. At roughly 212 chp from the factory, it seems to have the lowest hp number of the bunch. You can tell the difference of this engine by the aluminum intake and its single exhaust port heads (looks like a long slot or oval) as compared the later 6’s and the metal timing cover/size when compared to the eg33. It has two plus sides however, cheap (relative to the other EZ 6’s) and drive by cable, non CANBUS. You can pick this up for around $1-2k, and not have to deal with the drive by wire issues. Furthermore the 212hp mark is deceiving, both the intake and exhaust is extremely constricting on the donor car and from the swaps that have been done/ dyno’d (in the Subaru world) just upgrading to something less restrictive will put power up to 230-240 CHP.
I would rank this motor highest in comparison to the other options. Due to its modern design and timing chain (that does not need to be service for the life of the engine) it is smaller/lighter and more reliable than the eg33. On the other hand the ECU on the EZ30D substantially less expensive than the EZ30R and EZ36R. However to clarify it does not have the VVT or AVCS of the later EZ's.

Yeah, the EG motors are cheap and the naturally aspirated EJ25 motors are under-appreciated. It all depends on what you need and what you want to do with them.

EMS systems shouldn't be that expensive, though. It's been a few years but I paid about $1000 for an EMS Stinger, which works great, and $300 for a harness that made it plug-and-play. It's simple but has everything you need and should run any of the Subaru motors. An aftermarket EMS removes any need to use the canbus harness, so you can run any of those more modern motors too. And if you ever decide to change/move up just change the map. Can't do that with an OEM ECU.

The EMS page at Outfront, http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/engine_management.htm has the Stinger and other alternatives, with price indications. And of course if you want an in-depth education about engines and fuel injection you can buy or build a Megasquirt for half that. I might be smart enough to do that (big maybe) but definitely don't have the patience for it.

Outfront also imports JDM motors and I think keep a stock of U.S. market motors for sale as well, so you could ask them about cost. Their Motor Matrix page might be helpful: http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/motor_matrix.htm It's four-cylinder centric, and some of the info is a bit outdated, so call them for current info or with questions. They've been really helpful whenever I've needed it.

And no, I don't work for Outfront or have any association with them except for having received that good service.

Outfront is a great outfit for sure, and have been kind enough to answer many of my questions without me even being a customer.

From what ive been told, I think the difference in price you are seeing is in the capability of the ECU. I was quoted around $2-3k from Surgline, Small Car, 42autosports for a system that can run the VVL and AVCS that the EZ-R engines should run. Yes you could get the motor to run great with a cheaper ecu, but you wouldn't be utilizing the parts that make the motor so cool. At that point your paying thousands more for what amounts to an EZ30D with 3 exhaust ports instead of 1... not really worth it in my opinion...
it may be possible to do with megasquirt but im sure rather difficult to incorperate the VVL and AVCS.

The point about the JDM engines is excellent for the EZ-R engines!!! I completely forgot about that, for most 4cly I think the necessity of aftermarket ecu cancels out the savings you would get by going jdm. But with the EZ-R engines you have to go with an Aftermarket ECU anyway, so why not save a $1k+ and go jdm. Excellent point!

furthermore I forgot that Outfront supplies jdm engines, the would be a great place to get it from because its not some random jdm importer, it would help to eliminate the crapshoot aspect of going JDM

Ian,
Here is a link to post #1023 in a conversion on the Nasioc site for a Suby Powered Exo car.

Look at the shifter linkage he will offer for the mid engine car utilizing a MR2 shifter.

Here is his contact info on his website.

Hope this helps you out in some way.

Also, search theBionicman on the same thread,here is a link to his youtube video with his prototype.

Cheers,
Nate

Ian, take a look at the Link G4 Storm (will control variable valves) and the G4 Extreme (valves plus electronic throttle, any motor). A couple of years ago they were about $1000 and $1500 respectively if you talked pretty to the importer. May be different today, but I can't imagine they've gone up too much. Depends on the Dollar, I guess, but it's at least worth checking current prices. Several of the Link importers (other than Outfront) also sell plug-and-play harnesses for all the engines, so you can totally eliminate the canbus crap.

I don't actually need any of this now, but saw an EZ36 motor with 22K miles on Craigslist locally for $1500. By the time I decided I might be interested it had been sold, but it got me started thinking again.

DB you sparked my curiosity, so i looked into it a little more. I couldn't find to much on the link G4 in relation to the EZ-R engines. I did make a few calls to some more tuners specifically I spoke with John the owner of Outfront today about the EZ30R/EZ36R ECU options. At this point, there are only two options that Outfront offer. first option is the one of the EMS ECUs at 1000-1500$. John said it would not run the full capabilities in the EZ-R heads. The alternative that will run the engines VVT and AVCS is the motec computer which will run a whopping 7-8K. He also said that he is working on a third option that will run the vvt/avcs for just north of $3k. we talked for a bit and i told him that i was having trouble finding an option that will run vvt/avcs for under $3k he said that sounded correct.

Also John said price on a JDM EZ30R is $3K for the complete engine, not quite as cheap as i had hoped but several hundred less than a comparable USDM engine.

On the ECU issues, basically what it comes down to is every tuner that I can find to have worked with a EZ-R quotes a $3-4K ECU to be able to run the VVT/AVCS. I'm sure if you had a lot of time and ingenuity it would be possible to do it for less, but from what I have been told by Perrin, Outfront, 42Autosports, and Small Car a plug and play option is not going to be under $3k.

And man $1500!!! shoulda jumped on that thats like finding a wrx engine for 500!

Try FLI in Santa Rosa (http://finelineimports.net/index.php?main_...products_id=563) I don't know them personally but have heard good things. I see on that link they list the Link Extreme for $1650, so you'll need to pretty talk them a bit to get to $1500. I'd hate to think people wouldn't pursue these later motors thinking it's not possible or uber expensive to adapt them. They're really nice engines.

Yeah, I know, such a deal, but it's OK, I'm happy with what I have. You know I DID get my WRX motor for $600, complete. Craig's list. Nothing wrong with the WRX, but I do like N/A horsepower and am intrigued by how well a 3.6 should work in a 914. You know that engine's rods are offset? Thrust on the rod on the power stroke is always on one side, so they changed the geometry so that side was aligned with the stroke offset and direction. Cool concept. Only problem, from what I've heard, is that the rods are sintered, making it harder for aftermarket replacements. Also I don't know enough about it to say, but the oil pump in that engine is down in the sump. If you need to section the pan (probably not, but still) that might be a problem. Anyway, if I had an engine I needed to fit it would one thing. But I don't.

Question: If one wants the EZ30D what is the best route. Find a wreck, strip it and use the ECU that came with the car? Or, aftermarket ECU and the related headaches that a non-pro tuner will encounter and just for go the additional HP that VVT offers? Sorry for the beginner questions but I'm still at the "dumb ass stage" with the Suby stuff and and trying to formulate an opinion before the check book opens. I hope to see a couple of Suby 4's this weekend so I might change my mind in the next few days. Great thread! Thx for all the valuable input from everyone.

How would one know of getting the EZ30D would it be stamped on the block somewhere. And as far as the 5mt any AWD drive will do ?

Zaney:
Thanks for the link looks like an interesting set up. The design on the Subaru cable shift is pretty strait forward and I’m pretty set with it. On the other hand, if you would like to find examples of a 901 side shift cable set up I’d love to see pictures of that! My original designs ended up pricing out too expensive and I need to figure out an clean/sturdy design.

DBCooper:
I will check them out thanks for the heads up. Furthermore thank you for the valuable input/ trying to keep the options open for people and keeping me on my toes =). I completely understand where you are coming from these are really sweet engines and that would be great in a 914.
$600 for a complete wrx?!? Where are you finding these prices! Yes I understand the 3.6 has some really cool engineering to it. The asymmetrical rods will make aftermarket more difficult, but then again the 3.6 is sooo nice as it sits stock I don’t know why you would want to change it; 260hp on regular gas? A great wide hp/tq curve with avcs and vvt? The 6cyl sound? What’s not to love?

76-914:
you are just about right on with your description; find a wreck get the complete engine, wiring harness, ECU. And you should be set. I should have added for clarification (and have now) that the EZ30D does not have VVT or AVCS of the latter EZ series. This is great for the budget minded as the stock ECU will work fine and aftermarket options for tenability and a small increase in power are available for much less, 600-1500.
As compared to a turbo 4cyl they are going to be close to the same feeling engine. The 4 will usually have a more peaky torque curve, but there are so many more options for power and fine tuning it is much more versatile. Then again a 6 has about the same hp and sounds like a 6.

913b_sp:
Good question, as I stated in the write up a couple posts back the main visual difference from the latter EZ’s is going to be the aluminum (vs plastic) intake manifold and the single (oval/slot shaped) exhaust ports. I don’t know if there is any block stamping or the differences in the stamps. The vehicle it comes out of is the 2001-2003 Outback LL Bean edition.
The transmission should be chosen relative to the cars power levels. As a general rule of thumb less than 200hp, most any ’95 up Trans will do. For turbo stock hp 220-280 a turbo transmission would be required, 2002-2010. There are several different options in turbo transmissions and I have written a 5 page write up that will be going onto my website when it is all ready but to net it I would suggest any turbo trans from 2005-2007 as the best all around choice. Finally, for the +300HP range I would recomend looking at a strenghtend turbo transmission, using something like an RA gearset for low 300hp and an Albiens gearset for the higher outputs.

Basically if you stick to those numbers you should be pretty safe to treat the trans fairly aggressive. if you tryto make a lower leval transmission work with higher hp you will really have to be more careful with it. in general its all in how you drive.

furthermore care must be given to your CV choice, that is where you go for the weakest link that works. IE the stock 914 CV should be used up to the mid/high 200HP range before you consider going stronger. as i have said before the CV are the fuse of the drivetrain system. If you want your transmission to last go with the lighter fuse, if you go with stronger CV's in the wrong set up you could move the breaking point to something inside the tranny... not good...

So hold my hand one more minute; I've got another question. I should be looking for a Outback or Legacy 2000-03 if I want the EZ30D? Any others. What if I find one with an automatic? Any hidden horrors in converting to 5 or 6 speed suby trans? tia. kent

The wiki pages provide a pretty good make, model, and engine application chart. It helped me when shopping for my donor car.

76-914: sorry Freudian slip, I was looking at some legacy outback engines earlier and the name stuck in my head (the mid 90s outbacks were "legacy outbacks." I fixed my mistake and added more to my previous post. But just to clarify:

The EZ30D is found in the 2001-2003 Outback LL Bean edition.

and yes the wiki is a pretty accurate source for general Subaru engine info

Half way through the production run pleased to report everything is going great! Here is a before pic from this morning

Click to view attachment

Well right at about 5ish i ran out of wire, didn't have a spare spool on hand but the good news is i got through enogh of the cradles to fill the pre-orders!

Ill update the member vendor thread with more specific info.

here is a partial after pic

Click to view attachment

Kent,
The car we took a spin in the other day had a EJ205 from an AT impreza that hugged a tree.
I went into a Pic-a-part for a 914 air blower and it was the first car I saw. $1000 to the yard for the motor, ECU and complete harness. I gave another guy $100 to pull it all out.
That was a great deal. I had to go back for the gauge cluster. Fuel pump controller and some other sensors were missing.
Not wanting to cut up the Ruby914 I went looking for a 2nd car.
I also found a guy on craigslist that was parting out another WRX. I got more parts from him.
I removed the AT harness and everything that I didn't want from the main harness. I used Romraider to switch off codes from any thing I removed.

I think I got lucky but I would keep my eye out on Craigslist, Nasioc and Ebay for anyone parting out a car.
I am sure Ian can tell you, better than I, about what the best motor is.
My car is fast but I am not happy with the intercooler location and maybe it's not the turbo but the turbo lag that makes me feel it is not the best setup for complete control of the car.

always learning

Looking good, you make me want to redo mine.

very impressive !!!

Got my attention. Nice work. I'm sure we'll be talking before years end. For those of you considering this: try to hitch a ride in one of these conversions. Very impressive. I rode in Mark's (ruby914) last Sat and it was a gas. Not sure if my smile was organic or a result of pulling G's.
Mark: I'm checking Craigslist every day. Thx again for the spin.

my guess is that even with a lowly 1.8L sub engine, coupled with 5spd suby trans, the fun/reliability factor should be excellent, not to mention the gas mileage.

look forward to the shift linkage solution being developed.

Ha! All this excitement makes me want to finish my own car! Alas it is the main testing ground for all the building so probably wont done for a while yet... if anyone wants to drive to Portland, or just loan me one for a while that would be cool! =P
Well off to work got to get the shipping quotes and the invoices out today. Check my member vendor thread for the details if you like.

some of ian's parts in action

** note - this is a turbo install which requires partial trunk floor modification.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...78501&hl=im painting&st=200



below is DBCooper's trunk mod.

Thanks Jim!
One thing to add, the Subaru transmission does require a bit of extra clearance as well not just the turbo.

Its pretty cool to see it in a another 914!

Guys! check out my new website! coldwater914.com. It is a work in progress but I'm very please with how it is turning out.

Great job!

Any news on the cable shifter components? I will probably look into that and a cradle. It will open up more options for me in the future... Speed is addictive!!!

Thanks!

Nate

working on it, the design is taking a bit longer as im low on cash and have to work with the custom cable numbers and get them right on paper before i order a set. should have a working prototype in the next couple of weeks.

Bump!
Any updates?

I really don't know how you plan on doing a 2.9L Suby engine the walls will be super paper thin or even if it's sleeved what about the water jets and the mating of the heads. The same power could be made with a bigger turbo or dual turbo like some of the older JDM models at lot less money.

Crawford biggest kit they do is a 2.7 and thats really pushing the wall thickness and Cosworth is at 2.6....Max I ever heard for the Suby stock block on the EJ257 is 101mm but most people max out at 99 or 99.5mm Both Darton and Crower do a max of 102mm for there sleeved engines so I really don't know how you are going to gain another 2.5mm over anyone else that's been building these engines for ever!

Am i missing something or are you forgetting these are water cooled and have/need the plumbing for it?

Only a newbie would ask jake this stuff. Welcome to the 914 world, It does sonund like you are a nasioc guy though so double welcome. Study jakes plan a little more then you will see what he has. Jake might be the cosworth of T4's. He also is into porsche stuff and that means more expensive powerplants. I am more interested in the head sealing at 30 psi though with only six head studs. The bigger the more low end torque at 2500 rpms.

You also probably know that it will take a well built driveline to support 5-6-650 horsepower, and 500 ftlbs of torque as long as it's only two wheels the tranny can only cost 2500 MAYBE.

i have not had time to put into the cable shift, school and a full conversion project for a customer has been soaking up most of my time. Of course my last term of school cant be nice and easy, averaging 2-3 books read, per week.

Still plugging away at product development and growth though, I have just recently become a dealer at Small Car Performance, so if anyone wants wiring kits/instructions or shortened aluminum oil pans let me know!

It's taking me longer than I'd anticipated to get a Suby, too!

Hey guys just an update on the axles: They ARE being made, it has taken longer due to some changes I made to the design but SAW assures me 3 weeks.

Thanks for hanging in there with me, especially Chris(my928s4) cause man you are getting close to being done!!!

Once i get this stocking order in I'm going to stay on top of the inventory level so they will hopefully always be in stock ready to ship.

Quick update, I am now a Speed Hut dealer. They provide a great product that makes it easy to get a useful and cool dash in you 914.

If you go to my924s4 or Sawtooth buid threads, you can see how truly nice they are for our application.

Let me know if you want a set!

-Ian

[/quote]
i have not had time to put into the cable shift, school and a full conversion project for a customer has been soaking up most of my time. Of course my last term of school cant be nice and easy, averaging 2-3 books read, per week.
[/quote]

Sounds like what I went through in my last quarter. Two English lit classes at once plus a ton of other crap I couldn't register for until I was a graduating senior - I had to quit my job for 3 months because all I did was read old books and write about them - 18+ hour days. Then it ended And I was done!!!!

Axles are finally done. I am really disappointed with SAW on this one. it took waaay to long. I am looking into other vendors to avoid this problem in the future. but thankfully The axles should be on my doorstep tomorrow and i will start shipping them out.
-Ian