i have a set of porcharu's magic flanges that i never used for sale in case anyone needs a set now - see classifieds. does not work with ALL suby trans - must have same number of splines - i believe early legacy trans is ok and some others but not impreza.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0733&st=680

ALSO A QUESTION ?????

would this thing with the spiral coil effect performance - the vaccum line nipple is broken off.

Ooooo Jim you peaked my interest. Is that a 240???
-Jim

its a 1993 subaru impreza wagon fwd 1.8L

IM101 - what cost to convert to power steering ?? : )

i hear a wide body wide tired 914 with a smaller steering wheel can be a handful.

jim

I like the front rad with the duct setup idea someone had done. I'll get to that eventually so I can get some functionality out of the front trunk. As far as I remember, everyone who has tried the mid-mounted radiator has failed, re-invented and failed again and gave up on the idea. If I am wrong, I'm sorry and let me what you did and I might try to do it the same someday.

I haven't flipped my intake manifold because I intend to put the A/C compressor back on someday. I couldn't figure out a way to keep the compressor, alternator and flip the manifold. The piping for the intake isn't even that complicated. I didn't have to cut into the rear trunk either. I have a 90 degree bend in my intake pipe and will use an air to water intercooler. I may even be able to keep my full size optima battery back there.

Look for pictures of the front trunk on a Carrera GT. They built some low profile ducting that directed the air out of the front trunk area and it helped created a space that was still useable. Having good ducting will allow you to run smaller exit areas.

Nice job Ian, it's great to see some excitement in the suby conversion world again. It seemed to die off for a while. It really is an incredible way to go, especially if the suby trans is used. I've got 2500 miles on mine with no problems, and loads of smiles every time I drive. Let me know if I can be of any help.
Dean

Ruby 914, Wow man you did luck out, that a wrx made it into a pick andpull is incredible and that you got there first is insane. But yes I definitely agree with you optionsare good and there are a lot of them out there for this kind of project:

- engines, ej20, ej22, ej25… all of the 6’s

-Transmissions, 901, Subaru, 3.90, 4.11, 4.44, male flangesfemale flanges, stronger gears, better top speed

-NA or turbo, Td04,05,06, Vf28,30,40,44 Intercooling, air toair, air to water, Placement?

-engine management, OEM Cut harness, Piggy back, Standalone



And those are just a few of the options, literally there is1000 ways to skin this cat. I guess part of the reason for doing the kits is toboth enable and streamline the decision making process. A mount that will workwith any of the Subaru engines and both transmission choices, Axles that willwork with any of the subi 5 speed transmissions. On the other hand, an EMS that will be flexible,powerful and simple, a perfectly located and proven set up for intake/exhaust/cooling.

That’s what I want the end result to be. So that the kid incollege who just bought his 914 roller can buy the separate pieces and slowlybuild his dream car on a shoe string budget. Or the retired guy who wants his favorite 914, just with late modelpower and reliability; without losing half of his savings or months of waiting.Or anyone in between.

Call me cheesy or a dreamer or whatever, but that is my vision
Ian M.

Oh ya and the Axles... ive got several pm's about them so i may just put those on the fast track, i hope to have the axles and cradel done in a month or two.

Just wonder how the pricing on the axles will compare with the ones I have had done at Dutchman Motorsports
Great guys to work with I've sent 4or5 other people to them. I guess everyone is happy.
Bob

You heard wrong

Jim Kelly,
Well that is probably more of a question for legacy central with, it’s a smaller Subaru forum dealing with earlier legacys which I believe also had the same 1.8 as your impreza.
As to the power steering… ha, I had never thought of a conversion to power steering, I’ll look into it, although with everything on my plate I probably wouldn’t be offering one for some time, But keep the ideas coming 

Heck, with power steering and fwd auto trans you could conceivably make a 914 drivable by someone who is in a wheelchair… now that is a cool thought…

Pktzygt,
I like your set up, I was planning similar until I figured out the flip method, ill post a video when its all ready so anyone can do it if they would like.

You are probably right about the mid Rad, I just remember a thread with a working one, in any case the mid rad doesn’t really make a lot of sense…
I do like the late model Porsche triple radiator set up, properly ducted of course Brett W.. again that is something that is a ways off in development, at first I will probably go with a front mont rad with ducting that still allows use of the trunk.

Sawtooth,
Hey thanks Dean, your car is inspiration enough… but I’ll let you know if there is anything else.

Dutchman is great, I don’t know what your price is and the axles will probably end up being similar but I’m hoping to get them at the lowest price possible.

I was previously employed by Metaltech 4x4, it is a small company specializing performance 4x4 gear for Toyota Land Cruisers. It was great working there and I miss it. I gained a lot of business knowledge and contacts and I will definitely be treating this business similarly

I will be sending rfq’s for axles to several venders (including Dutchman) going with the best quality for the lowest price, furthermore I will ordering in bulk so that I can have axles in stock and benefit from lower price per axle.

My idea for the radiator in the engine bay is this. I want to use the 2 radiator setup from boxster. My plan is to do it on a flared car. Weather they were GT or Sheridan it should work. Just cut the inlet in the flare on each side for the radiator. Should get plenty of airflow & it would just exit out the wheel well. Should be efficent enough to cool the car. My worry is just cosmetically how to make it flow with the lines of the car. If I could draw for anything I would add an illustration. As it is I think most can figure what I have in mind. I think it would work great. I'm just not sure I can make it look great too

The nicest thing is you keep your front trunk. It also keeps your water lines short & close. It's just a matter of ducting the inlet so it not only looks good but provides enough flow. I have seen a few mods for some forced induction. Anyone have some pics of a 914 with an induction on the side? I've got one of Phillip Haun's car. My thoughs were leaning more towards the Sheridan flare. The GT flare is doable but it would be a tighter squeze as it is flared so close to the wheel/tire. Where the sheridan type is more gradual? Anyway if you have a pic of something along these lines please post them

Holy crap you have gear experiance?

You should figure out how to make a reversed ring and pinion for the subaru 5/6 speeds. Ther are tons of vanagons looking for a good 5 speed. I think the bugs and ghias are in the same boat.

just ia thought

jcl

JCl,
Check out
http://www.subarugears.com/

Yep exactly the website I was going to post. Figures an Aussie would beat me to it, it seems like you guys have all the cool Subaru stuff

I'll probably build a thread for my EZ30 conversion soon while things are on hold for the race season. I'm basically sitting waiting for a cradle and some axles... and that's it. If someone can give me a price and a ship date before I build it myself (planned for December), they'll have my money.

Just sayin.

You should be in luck, a EZ30 cradle and axles shouldn't be any different that an EJ. Don't know for sure but think my son has my old EJ20/901 cradle. In Modesto.

Be sure to post your build thread. I have a turbo four, am really interested in that six.

Oh, yeah, I'm very much aware of the mounting issues, and I'm ready to bolt it together, I just don't know of anyone who will sell me a EJ/EZ+subaru trans mount. You bet your sweet buns that if I do it myself I'm going to have a stack of them. To everyone promising to make these, yes, that's a threat!

Hi,
I just wondered if anybody was further down the road with their kits?

I am now ready to start collecting bits for my conversion (looking to use subaru transmission)

Thanks,
Ian

Yes my Red car is getting ready for a Rotary....it will be video tape complete with the shop that will be doing the conversation I will post it on a new u tube channel...soon

3k to rebuild an ej22? why rebuild it when the engine only costs a few hundred. just toss the engine if it doesnt work and pick up another one. then again maybe its cheaper here in ca.

Well I wish I could say I was further, but dang college has been getting in the way... stupid edumacation...

Anyway I am finally making headway again and ill update again soon.

I've been researching engine sources and come up with some good information. I agree the ej22 is probably not worth the rebuild. anyway here is some info on NA engine choices.

The following is a compilation of options and information for Subaru’s 2.5 Liter naturally aspirated engine. There are other NA engines available, such as the 2.2L or the 1.8 however in my opinion they have several disadvantages to the 2.5L, such as having less HP and single port exhaust heads and much less aftermarket support. One benefit that the ej22 has is it doesn’t have the head gasket failure that tend to show up with the ej25 at +150k, so it can be found, in a high mileage but usable form under 700$ pretty regularly.
The price is for a complete, shipped, assembled engine, longevity is the estimated mileage that the motor should last with regular maintenance, and of course the engine and warranty is self-explanatory.

(2.5L NA)
Opt # / Engine / Price Range / Longevity / Warranty
1 / High Mileage USDM / $500-1200 / 10-60k / NA
2 / JDM / $1200-2000 / 100-130k / 30-90 day
3 / Low Mileage USDM / $1800-2500 / 100-160k / 30 day
4 / Rebuilt USDM / $1900-2600 / 200+ / 12 month, 12,000mi


The high mileage motor (opt 1) is relatively easy to come by, the lower price range would be a luck find on local Craigslist. Higher price would be shipped from continental US and probably the easiest to just plug-in and drive. The ease comes with a cost though as it would be at the end of its life and probably end up needing a full rebuild or replaced soon.

The JDM motor (opt 2) is an interesting case. First off there are several years 99-05 that are obd2 capable and directly compatible to the USDM version. One option would be to gamble, buy a complete engine off ebay, hope for the best and most likely end up with a lemon. I would not do this myself and would not advise anyone of this course. You basically are paying twice as much on an engine that could be as bad as or worse than a High mileage USDM motor, with little recourse (pay shipping to return and a restocking fee and flush $700+). The alternative (listed opt 2) would be to buy an engine through a reputable importer where it is leak down/compression tested. The problem with this however is the several importers I have spoken with do not sell the wiring harness or ECU with the engine, thus USDM ancillary equipment would be required to get the engine complete and that will add expense.

The low mileage USDM motor would be the first, no guessing, reliable option. Like the JDM version they usually need to be sourced from a reputable shop. Also several ancillary parts will need to be sourced as the low mileage motors usually come a long block. However when this engine gets up into its higher mileage it can become susceptible to head gasket failure (due to bad factory HG pre 2005 NA 2.5L have been documented regularly blow a gasket after about 130k).

Finally there is the Rebuilt USDM option. Recently I found an engine builder with great prices on fully rebuilt (including heads) long blocks, normally a rebuilt long block would be $3000-4500$. However with this builder you can buy a rebuilt long block for what a used on would normally be. Furthermore it would have a tad more HP (due to .02 honing of the cylinders), updated HG that will not give out prematurely, and the option of customizing the build to whatever specs (upgraded cams, pistons, etc). This option would be the best in reliability and would have more power however it is also the most expensive and more difficult to get done, as a core motor would have to be sourced for exchange and ancillary parts.

In summation if you are looking to go the inexpensive/quick route I would go with the high mileage used set up (opt 1). It is quick and will get you running, if it decides to die after a few thousand miles at that point the JDM option becomes more feasible since you would have everything necessary (intake, ecu, sensors, etc.) to drop it in and go. On the other hand, If you are going to spend the money for a no headache set up, I would suggest going with the fully rebuilt engine (opt 4) as it only negligibly more expensive then the low mileage option with much greater benefits.

-Ian M.

How about the JR28?
:-)

That with an AWD Suby trans option for a Baja Bug and I am sold!
Congrats on the venture with Subiegears!

Your missing the Diesel option!

New engines are now like 4500.00 tranny 2k. I dont know if the ecu has been worked out yet?

I cant see a 2.2 being 3k to rebuild? I have torn down 3 with over 150,000 on them and most need an oil pump, piston rings and ehaust valves checked and lapped, and a set of acl bearings. I think with a subaru gasket kit you should be able it refresh/rebuild for under 1000.00?

Im picking up my 6speed for the eg33 swap next week. The new subarus mount like the 911 did with one mount in the front and 2 bolt on ears at the tranny. I may have to rethink my mounts so i probably not looking for the standard "KIT"

Boxxer.com has the diesel stuff.

jcl

www.boxeer.com is the site

Just an update, Things are finally coming together. Should have products to sell before the end of the month...
here's a teaser shot of some of the laser cutting being used in the in the project

Click to view attachment

Installing rice-burners into German thoroughbreds is making Dr. Porsche turn in his grave.

Oh you have never see inside that rice burner have you! Plus I thought the porsche engeneer team help with the design of the ej engines in the early 90s.



jcl

Its still a BOXER motor.......Only Subaru was willing to run with it. Dr.Porsche I'm sure would approve

Are there going to be made, any improvements on the shift linkage that Renegade didn't think out very well??

With the exception of concours weenies, who are special, it's not a question of providence, it's function. You haven't seen the inside of those motors. Makes the three main T4 motors look like something from the Model A era. They're EXTREMELY well designed, and I'm fairly certain that Dr. Porsche, who understood good engineering, would admire them as much as anyone else with a T4 background who's seen them.

Before anyone calls me on this I'm talking about three main bearings supporting the rods, not the small one on the nose that's really just for the crank pulley.

The 914 is anything but a 'German thoroughbred'..... More like, 'interesting breading'.

looking forward to seeing you full offering.

for suby engines and suby trans conversions in a 914.

jim

Putting all the other pro subaru arguments/stats aside (there are a lot), the fact that Jake Raby has started developing the Subaru power-plant speaks volumes about its potential and place in the 914. He is after all basically the master of air cooled porsche/vw engines at this point.
-Ian

I have always appreciated the abilities of the Suby engine no matter what it is installed into.. Honestly if the cost of TIVs wasn't so high, cores so old and the quality of parts not going to last another 30 years I would have never diversified into the Suby.
After we developed the Type 4 as well as possible for any sane HP level and expense it was time for a change- because the following has changed and continues to. I know that the TIV will be completely dead before I close the door to my office for the final time so diversification into the M96/ M97 years ago and now the Suby was simply required.

As aircooled engine component quality continues to deteriorate its important that we lead the way with the next level of Suby engine development with a different scope of basic alterations not found with the typical "Suby Tuners". Merging classic hotrodding with a modern engine and a twist is what its all about and thats more than the "tuners" do. One good example of this is the creation of an engine that doesn't "sound" like a Suby. I hate the signature sound of a suby and so do most other air-cooled enthusiast and making the Suby sound like a well tuned -4 has been a fairly large undertaking as the differences go well beyond the exhaust system. Here is an example.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

And this is the other key.. WOW what bazaar things I found when playing with these numbers!


I do not have any plans to provide Suby>>>>>914 components. My internal engine developments can be universally applied but I have decided not to focus any of my efforts on the 914 specifically.

Now those who want a Raby engine have their choice of classic air-cooled, or modern water-cooled and I am having more fun than ever making it happen.

Interesting, I personally like the exhaust note (when its stock or tastefully modified). Still, I cant wait to see what you come up with. I have a feeling that some suby(non vw/porsche conversion) guys will be interested in the results as well. It seems like the innovation could be a bit of a shock to the subaru world, to say the least.

Would love to see an example of this installed and the "massaging" that had to happen...Aluminum...no more rust...

Here's a picture of test fitting a Subaru WRX Turbo in my kit car.
\
Click to view attachment

What parts do I need?

I'm thinking of replacing the Type IV engine in my 912E with a N/A 2.5 Subie engine. The 912E was heavily modified by the PO (fiberglass RSR body conversion) and the engine or L-jet F.I. may need work. The transmission is a 923 5-speed (915 with a 901 input shaft to fit the Type IV). I don’t believe making a renegade out of it will decrease its value any more than it is now with the body kit.

I have a complete 2004 Legacy S/W with the 2.5 N/A, CA emission, Auto Trans, A/C. I am the original owner of the car. It has about 120K miles. It has had a CEL issue for the last 4 or 5 years, which is related to the O2 sensors or Cat converters. The car has 3 cats and I didn’t want to replace them. Emission inspection is easy to get around in my state so that was not a problem. The car runs fine and still gets high 20’s to low 30’s gas mileage. My teenage daughter has used the car for the last couple of years and there isn’t one body panel (except maybe the roof) that doesn’t have damage on it. The car has very little value.

So…what parts do I need from the Legacy for a Subie conversion? Will an auto transmission ECU work OK in the M/T Porsche? I’m guessing I will need a new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate for my 923 trans. I may not use the A/C from the Subie (the 912E doesn’t have it now).

Thanks, Fran

just reread and noticed this. Yes there will be an improvement in the shifting, im working on a cable shift slution for both the 901 and subaru set up. The shifter im trying to build will be pretty close to stock looking/placement... but its still a little ways off.



although im not too familiar with the tail-dragers, your set up should be pretty simple, just get an aluminum engine to trans adapter from KEP (i think they make a subaru>915 set up) and some kind of an engine mount system needs to be fabricated. That ECU should work fine aswell.

There is a Seattle based company (and I am sure others) that flips components in the transmission to run it backwards (tail drag) and the conversions I find in the VW bus space work very well.

It's time to unleash the beast... Welcome the Nikisil bored JR28 in 103mm.


We are also the sole US distributors for Subarugears reversed ring and pinion kits since you guys jumped on that topic.. Here are a couple of reversed trannys that are ready for their rear engine applications that we have in work now.

Since my car (1976, 912E, tail dragger---a 1 year replacement for the 914, before the 924 was released) uses the same engine as a 914 (Type 4, 2L, but with L-Jet instead of D-Jet FI) , the engines must rotate in the same direction. I'm thinking the 914 tranny was made to be a reverse rotation in comparison to the 901/915 in the 911 & 912 cars. Doesn't the 6 cyl 914 use a 901 transmission? Were the gears for this tranny flipped? I don't think I need to worry about reverse rotation, do I?

Thanks for the above replies. I was hoping I could expand this thread to other applications within the VW/Porsche family.

Fran

do you supply output flanges?

Any 4WD 5 speed without hi/lo selector will work.. 2WD and 6 speeds won't.

If you are using the transmission that is currently sitting in your 912 you should be fine and not have to worry about reverse rotation (I'm pretty sure). If you decide to run a Subaru transmission, then you will need to reverse the gearing...

-Ian

Jake, email me some information on the Nikisil cylinders. I've got an engine block sitting here I may send your way if it's not too increadibly expensive. I'm going to be building a monster motor for the Boxsteru soon. precisionchassis@gmail.com