Thanks! The center console came out way better than expected. I think it looks really cool. I am pretty happy with it.

So far my impression of the SpeedHut gauges is that it was money well spent! I love the GPS speedometer. It is so cool that it does 1\4mile and zero to sixty times. I am looking forward to the altitude read out for the RRC next Thursday.

daaaaannnngg that center console is nice. Nice work on the gauge panel too. I need to do that myself. Mine is plastic so I'll cut some slits and epoxy a few tabs in to hold them better.

Thanks Chris! The one criticism I have with the SpeedHut gauges is the threaded body of the gauge is larger than the diameter than interfaces the panel. So if you cut the hole to clear the threads the gauges will float a bit when they are fully seated. (I know that I am being a bit picky) I am sure that this would be a non-issue if I would have use a thicker material for the backing plate. Either way it is time to put some miles on the car.

What type of hose did you use for your clutch master cylinder reservoir? I used fuel hose and after a little googling, it turns out that this is a bit of a no-no. I guess fuel hose is not brake fluid compatible. The hose will eventually break down and start to leak. I ordered some tygon tubing to replace it. The nipple on the master cylinder is metic (7mm) and it measures around 0.270" . The closest size I found was 0.250. I am hoping it will stretch a little bit? I plan to replace it tonight.

I just went to a flaps and asked for hydraulic hose. Its rubber but very HARD and inflexible compared to fuel hose. If your solution doesn't work out let me know and I can look underneath. Can't see any markings on it topside.

It should definitely stretch .02.

A&P Mech - That console looks perfect. I like the gauges too. Very nicely done. That console looks as if it should have come from the factory.

Cairo, thanks for the kind words!

Great job on the center console!

LOL! I have the same gauges & didn't even know it had those options. Guess I need to read my manual . Very cool looking forward to seeing it in person. We'll have to have a little race as our setup is close to the same

I'm looking forward to it! Only 3days to go!

Well I am sure it happens to us all at some point, the quest for more power has me rethinking my current engine choice. The 2.5L 4 cylinder was fun, but it is time for a 3.0L six. Thanks to Ross with his throttle body relocation it is now possible to drop an Subaru EZ30 into a 914 without cutting a hole in the trunk. So the quest is on for a low mileage ez30.

I will be selling my 2.5 ej253 with all of the Outfront bits. I will eventually get it listed in the classifieds.

Good for you man. That six will be sweet

That was fast .

Haha. It will be

Yeah, I might suffer from a short attention span.

The truth is my 2.5L is burning a lot of oil. It looks like a freight train on start up. The engine only has 90k on it. I have done head gaskets and valve guide seals and it still continues to go through oil like a 1940's radial engine. I chased it for a while thinking it was a PCV problem but the system now has a catch can installed. The catch can stays dry. The only other thing that I can think of is bad or stuck rings?

I played with the idea of rebuilding the bottom end but I see Ross eveyday at work and his awesome silver 3.0 subaru powered 914. I believe the phrase that comes to mind is " Resistance is futile " or "You will be assimilated" LOL.

So the quest begins for a 3.0 H6.

Apparently it only takes a weekend to do that complete conversion so why the heck not. I guess you need to just wait until the week before route 66 & you should be good to go right Ross

Laughing my ass off!

Week before? All the hard stuff is already done, just need to swap the motor, I'm thinking 3, maybe 4 hours?

Sounds like we could do it the morning of?

Of course it won't take you that whole week. I said weekend too but I forget your like Jimmy Johns

Yeah putting it in there should be a snap. Just have to fab an exhaust and wire it. Does the EMS Stinger run wasted spark ?

I did talk to the Outfront guys and they did confirm that the Stinger will run an EZ30. If I was going to go EZ30R I would probably use the Stinger. I plan on using the OEM ECU for the EZ30D. I will try to sell the Stinger, wiring harness, oil pan, axles and alternator bracket in the classifieds or on eBay.

If your running A/C I'll post the "work around" pulley for the PS pump. My PS pump bearings went about 5,000 miles once I removed the vanes from the pump. I'm pretty sure they added support to the shaft and the bearing so I made a something that uses the OEM PS pump bracket. It allows you to keep the OEM 6 rib belt.

I haven't really thought about A\C. I would like to see the solution that you came up with.

With this motor swap, I do want to get some kind of heat in the car. Ross went with an electric heater that looks pretty easy to install. It provides instant heat and no water lines to hook up. http://dcthermal.com/product/sd12-5000-12-...-ducted-heater/
It is a bit pricey and it pulls a lot of current. 50 amps!

The heater gets hot within 2 minutes since Subaru has the dedicated heater circuit. Welcome to the 6 madness. Your going to love that engine. And since your going w/ the factory ECU, I'll bet it's back on the road very quickly. Good choice.

I'm looking at putting heat in myself. If you search the older posts you'll find solutions that allow putting the heater core into the stock 914 fresh air box. Based on my research the core that sounds best to me is the mid-90's (94+) Mustang core. It fits in the box and the lines run out the side so minimal cutting.

Mustang Heater Core

Then you need a heater valve. I think I stole this from Mike Bellis but if you use a Rabbit valve you can hook it up to your stock controls.

It's cheap too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Audi-VW-Heater...sUn&vxp=mtr

And to run the 5/8 lines I picked up these tees to run to run the lines from underneath just before where the main ones go through the trunk so they can go straight up to the core and back down.

Rabbit Valve

The only thing to consider is how to ensure good flow. There are small pumps you can get to assist if need be.

If you add all this up it's what...$80 ish so if you can get the system Ross used for $140 it might be a good option. The stock 914 rear blower motor draws quite a bit of current and would not be used in either scenario so you could wire the system in to that.

WAIT...I just added one of those systems to a cart...$255. Still not too bad for plug and play.

Wow Chris thanks for all the info! I do like the idea of using the stock fresh air box and the price makes it a very tempting option.

I would have to troubleshoot my fresh air fan. It doesn't work. I took the box out and cleaned it up. I can get the fan to run with an external power supply but not with the controls in the car. It is time to pull the control levers out and do some troubleshooting.

Just had a buddy contact me about a WRX motor if you haven't totally decided to do your six. So if you aren't set on your six. He was getting set to put it in his 914 when plans changed.

Displacement?

I knew he was planning on that heater unit but hadn't heard how the operation came out. It looks like it would plumb into the stock system so you could use your vent controls as needed. I'm not sure if I'd want to plumb the heater lines up to the air box at this point if I could get a reliable electric heater.

Thanks for the offer but I am pretty sure I want to get a six.

Mixed reviews so far on it. I got it up and running today, and it certainly doesn't blow me away with heat. In the 15 minute drive home there is definitely a difference in inside temperature, but I'm sure less than with traditional heat.

It's not plumbed up to the defrost vents yet (just circulating in cabin) so maybe that will change things a bit.

I'm not convinced to keep it yet.

I'm guessing you got the one with the highest BTU output. It seems odd that the one that's the highest rated for the application doesn't do justice in a small cabin of a 914...

I'm just about to do my heater so you can watch me screw mine up in about 2 weeks and then improve on it . The only concern I would have is flow with mine. How does the fluid come from Waaayyy down low up to the highest point with any velocity? The previous posts say that as long as you have it plumbed with the flow of the water pump it should work ok.

Hey BTW I also learned that the occasional "automatic ECU stall" that comes from using an auto ECU with a manual car might be fixed by just installing a switch at the clutch that tells the ECU when the clutch is in, thereby in "neutral" keeping the idle stable. Just FYI since the manual ECUs tend to be more expensive.

It also goes down the same distance so it's a moot point. Any flow restrictions will come from turns, flat spots/ovaling in the hose and fittings installed enroute.

I had my heater in the stock airbox before I screwed it all up trying to get A/C in there as well. I just have a t from my radiator lines below. It absolutely gave out plenty of heat. I also had a shut off valve under my hood. So when it wasn't cold outside I would completely shut the flow of hot water off. Absolutely worked great. I have kicked myself multiple times for screwing up that setup . MY new a/c Box McMark made is sitting in it's space now. I haven't done a damn thing to get it hooked up though. Waiting on my motor swap to do the a/c. I've thought of having another heater core made & swapping back as I just capped my lines there. So be super easy to get hooked back up. Would have been much handier over the last year to have the heat

Do you have some pictures of your old setup? And new for that matter?

Look what followed me home yesterday. 3.0L six.

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Did somebody get bit by the Horsepower Bug?

Nice

Maybe... You know all the cool kids are doing it. LOL!

I've got 500 miles on that power steering pump by-pass. Once I get 1000 miles I'll get you the info you need to by pass yours. Lets you run the factory size belt. < $60 in parts. BTW, your going to enjoy that engine. Amazingly enough it is only 1.5" longer that the 2.5 it is replacing. You've probably driven Ross' so I needn't describe the ride. Kent

2.5L is out.

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Sounds great!

I have driven Ross' sliver car. It is pretty awesome and the reason for the swap. We have got to get the subie powered group together at some point. Are you thinking RRC this year?

Probably not going to RRC this year. IIRC, it is 900+ miles from here. So spill the beans. Will you be running the stock ECU? If so, you can bump the idle speed 50 rpm by grounding the brown wire to the power steering pump. There are a couple of more I can't remember at this moment. What are you doing for exhaust? You know you can buy the header exhaust flanges from OutFront. ~$45 ea. Are you installing AC?

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I totally understand not wanting to drive that far.

My plan is to use the stock ECU. Thanks for the tip on the idle rpm. I will be building the exhaust. I already have a set of exhaust flanges. No plans for AC yet. Not sure it gets hot enough here to need it. I do need to figure out some kind of heater.

With a little help from the Denver 914 outlaw crew, the 3.0L is now installed in the car. Ok, I just made up that outlaw group but the four guys in attendance all own 914 conversions.
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