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Full Version: BUILD-OFF CHALLENGE: Trojanhorsepower's Rusty 74 restoration Mark II
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trojanhorsepower
QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 1 2015, 09:44 PM) *

Keep those doors in place now as you do the rest of the welding to know when and if you do something wrong with those rear fenders and sills


Thanks for the tip! I know I still have a long way to go, but it is fun to see it with a door on.
914forme
Just read thru the entire post, that is some great work, and dedication. Makes some of my patches look like I did them in kindergarten.
Olympic 914
QUOTE(trojanhorsepower @ Jul 12 2015, 03:34 PM) *

Also got the little seat adjuster bracket that welds to the cross member. Slowly moving forward, very slowly.


I used the seat mount to locate the hinge parts that weld to the floor. After I broke one off trying to loosen it up.

Looks good. wish I could weld like that...
trojanhorsepower
Thanks Guys,
It is a learning experence and I could not have gotten here with out Doug's help.
trojanhorsepower
Worked on prepping the rear quarter to test fit with door.
trojanhorsepower
Got it all ready and test fit.

Wah wah hissyfit.gif

This is not good. The measurements seem OK, so maybe some fiddling and I can make it work. If not I will be the first competitor out.

So far staring at it has not helped......
trojanhorsepower
It's weird, but I put the old quarter on and it fit OK, not perfect, but the door will close. I wonder if this means that the new quarter can be made to fit?
JoeDees
For some reason it is reminding me of the time I helped replace the doglegs on a VW bus. We absolutely couldn't get the door to fit right. Double check your prepwork where it sits and make sure the quarter is sitting flush. Is it warped from removal maybe?

I definitely don't think you're done. I'm betting and hoping it's something fairly simple.
trojanhorsepower
Well, I figured I should press on while I think about this fender issue. I have been picking away at the small spots that remain. Got most of the spots on the front end worked fixed, but will have to add after pics tomorrow.
cary
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trojanhorsepower
More pics of the weather stripping repairs.
Still some more work to do, but it was not as bad as I though it would be.
trojanhorsepower
Got some more done today, but no pics. I will add some soon.
I have (I think) finished the patching on the front end.
I fiddled with the replacement fender and found that it was hanging a little on the fresh air vent in the door jam. I trimmed a little more and got it to fit, so I am going ahead with the build. I may end up shaving the door a little, but at this point I am confident that I can make one of the fenders work.

So, on to the back end. All I have done here is scour out the seam sealer from around the plug. I also found more rust! piratenanner.gif mad.gif
Oh well it looks manageable.
trojanhorsepower
Took some time this weekend to pull out some more seam sealer.
trojanhorsepower
Started on the rear trunk pan.
trojanhorsepower
So my patch panel does not have the threaded hole seen in the last picture at about 12:05. What is this for?
Chris H.
Spare tire tie down? There is a threaded hole in the rear trunk that allows you to mount the spare tire.
trojanhorsepower
How does this joint come apart? Click to view attachment
914forme
Click to view attachment

Remove this screw (Blue Arrow)

Pull Cap off (Red Arrow)

Pull Swap bar out (Green Arrow) {Optional Step in Reality, I do it to check them}

Pull Arm (Pinkish Purplish arrow)

Hope that helps
trojanhorsepower
Thanks Stephen,
I would not have guessed that was all that holds it together. What about the cap on the other end of the a arm? Does it just slide off as well?
cary
More pics of the weather stripping repairs.
Still some more work to do, but it was not as bad as I though it would be.


Some where I read you finish those repairs with JB Weld. I used it on my white car.
Makes a nice smooth channel to install the new seal in.
914forme
QUOTE(trojanhorsepower @ Oct 30 2015, 08:53 PM) *

Thanks Stephen,
I would not have guessed that was all that holds it together. What about the cap on the other end of the a arm? Does it just slide off as well?


confused24.gif Never tried to take one off.

Now if you are talking bushing mount here the two bolts go in. Slides off with a twisting motion. Or mounting it in a vice, and smash.gif stromberg.gif out of it, unit it gives while you expand you one syllable vocabulary hissyfit.gif Some of us old school guys just lit them on fire, and they burn out. If you go that method do not burn them on your driveway. It leaves quit a mess, S.O. might not like said mess. chair.gif
trojanhorsepower
I have gotten a lot of the front suspension bits apart, but decided to switch tracks until I can locate some blast media. So November is paint removal month. I am stripping as much paint as possible to make it cheaper to blast.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Note the rust under good paint.Click to view attachmentTop side all done.
trojanhorsepower
Worked on the doors to:Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Got all the goodies out and started on paint:
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
This is not good.
trojanhorsepower
So I finished stripping the doors:Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
The drivers door is toast, but Doug has a spare for me so I am going to use it to practice. Got a new toy:Click to view attachment and I started playing with dents.Click to view attachment
I still have a lot to learn, but with this car I will get plenty of practice piratenanner.gif wait wait blink.gif
trojanhorsepower
For a change of pace I started cleaning up the replacement light panel:Click to view attachment
And guess what??Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

No way! More Rust!!
76-914
No way. Rusty parts found in the Rust Belt! lol-2.gif hissyfit.gif headbang.gif smash.gif welder.gif
trojanhorsepower
Did some more paint removal..bondo removal.Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment. This panel has lots of damage but I guess I will try to save it, but it is probably beyond my extremely limited skill.
trojanhorsepower
I also cut out the hing brackets.Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
OK. I know this seams random, but given the way these panels interact they have to go on at the same time. While I was working on the quarter panel had to cut out a wad of rust that was a bolt. Here:Click to view attachment
Does anyone know what this nut should be? BTW that is a picture of the pass quarter upside down, where the sail panel moves into the rear truck seal channel.
trojanhorsepower
I hate to say it, but not been making any progress lately. Weather, holidays... Just doing paint removal when I can do anything.
trojanhorsepower
At last an actual update. We had some warmer weather this weekend and I was able to open up the shop and work some metal. I started on Saturday by removing the old bashed up taillight panel.Click to view attachment

Then I started cleaning up the area that goes under the brace inside the trunk.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
OK there should only be one copy of the first photo, not sure what I did there.

Anyway.... I also started fixing up the replacement panel (salvaged from DLeehr). It is a little rough, but better than the one I had. I was able to salvage some of the parts off mine to patch this one.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

I have several other small spots to work on, but that was the worst of it.
trojanhorsepower
I also had to redo the drivers side rear corner where there was Rust! I know you are all shocked. But this was not just rust, this was rust and a accident repair, with brazing!
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

The inside trunk corner was the worst. But after lots of little patches it came out OK.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
So next on the list is to finish repairing the repair panel and install it. Then I need to finish the drivers side corner. Then maybe I can get my trunk floor panel installed.
trojanhorsepower
Finished the rear trunk. I still have to add the muffler shield, but won't do that for a while.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
Taillight panel Mostly welded in.
Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
Now for a major problem. My original quarter is pretty rough, and thinking I would replace it I was not gentle when I took it apart.
Click to view attachment
I got a replacement from Doug, but it seems to fit worse than my original.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Both quarters are tight at the bottom, but the replacement panel is worse. The biggest problem with the replacement is the fact that the bottoms don't line up.
Please give me your suggestions and tips. I can weld the best of the two quarters together, but it may not be better than using one or the other.
trojanhorsepower
Suggestion... Ideas???
dlee6204
Curious, do you have a gap at the top? From the last picture you posted it doesn't look like the door is all the way closed?
Garland
QUOTE(trojanhorsepower @ Nov 29 2015, 02:19 PM) *

OK. I know this seams random, but given the way these panels interact.
Does anyone know what this nut should be? BTW that is a picture of the pass quarter upside down, where the sail panel moves into the rear truck seal channel.


I think your rusty bolt was the tab with stud, that mounts the bottom of the vertical sail trim, to the sail. Here's a shot of the interaction your speaking of.
And one of the hole for the tab. And tab.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Your build is looking good.
Garland
After review, I think I'm way off on the location of that rusty bolt. In that last post.

confused24.gif
trojanhorsepower
Thanks guys!
The gap at the top is not terrible, but bigger than I think it should be. Not that that means anything. The door will not close without forcing it. That said it is not so bad that you cant easily force it to close. It hits in lower corner as pictured and at the latch striker.
trojanhorsepower
Well Doug L. came over and saved the day!
We got the fender realigned. I then had to take it off and beat out some dings and weld up some holes. Any way, onto final fitament. I am screwing the quarter into place. Now I will add the rear deck lid and align it to weld in the hing points. Then I plan to start the welds on the quarter.

Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
Oh yeah, I got the jack point welded on to.
trojanhorsepower
Well whiles't I dither, I decided to work on the brakes. I found a few issues:
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Both of my adjuster studs have this thread broken off. I guess that is where the lock nut sits.
trojanhorsepower
I am ashamed to say I did this one myself:

Click to view attachment

Is it still usable?
trojanhorsepower
The master cylinder dose not look too good.

Click to view attachment

I was thinking about rebuilding, but I bet it is pitted. Is there a reason not to open it up? I would like to have it for a core if necessary, so if taking it apart means PMB won't want it, I will leave it alone.
trojanhorsepower
One more for today. Does anyone know what these are for? I found them in with my brake bits:

Click to view attachment
trojanhorsepower
Deleted
Andyrew
QUOTE(trojanhorsepower @ Jul 19 2016, 03:27 PM) *

One more for today. Does anyone know what these are for? I found them in with my brake bits:

Click to view attachment

Looks like brake pad retainer pins.
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