Great! Any recommendations on placement? Also is there anything rubber between the mount and the bar? It looks like just metal on metal, but I can't really tell.

Metal on metal. Only early cars had rubber outboard mounts.

I have been patching the front floor pan, while I dither about the engine mount.

You are making good progress.

Keep it going.

Wait until you prime the whole car one color.

Then it gets really exciting.

John

Thanks John,

I can only dream about the day it is one color.
Any tips for locating the engine mount? Both mounts measure out to be the same distance from their corresponding trans mount. Are there any critical points I should check?

I replaced one of mine that was really rusted out.

I think I measured off the firewall very carefully.

I don't think the engine mounts are quite as critical to locate as the suspension mounting points.

If you are within 1 cm it should be good enough.

Your CV joints can move a lot more than that.

I am sure the experts will chime in soon.

John

Thanks John,

Other experts please chime in.....

I am not sure how to measure off the firewall after my repairs. Any other points to check?

Here is a picture after I replaced mine.

There is a flat part of the fire wall that you can't see in this picture that you can measure off of for the fore-and-aft location (red line).

The top of the motor mount needs to be just below the engine tin on that side.

You want to measure from the ground to the bottom of your existing one and duplicate that measurement so that it is not hanging lower or higher than the one
on the other side (green line).

I seem to remember that removing the old one left traces behind of where it had been that also helped to locate the new one. That may not work if you replaced that part of your long.

Click to view attachment

I think I also looked at the distance from the right edge of the motor mount to the suspension console as another landmark to check.

Hope this helps.

John

Thanks John,

I will check those tomorrow.

Well, she's welded in now. I hope its right.

The next problem is the engine shelf. Do most folks have trouble fitting it in place? Do most people have to trim it or cut it in half? I have messed around a little and I can not get it to set right.

The engine shelf usually takes a little persuasion and fiddling but you definitely don't have to cut it in half.

Doug, can you be a little more specific? The firewall end of the shelf bends down slightly, but it is not folded 90 degrees like the back of the self. Is this just butt welded to the firewall or folded and spot welded?

Should I put the upper firewall in before I fit the engine shelf?

The front end should have a 90 degree bend and spot welded. At least that's how I've always done it.

It was a good day today at the Lamb house hold. Doug Leehr came over again and we made some major progress. We got the engine shelf situated and the main firewall welded in! After Doug left I pulled the engine shelf, primed and drilled it and started to weld it back in. The engine bay is seriously starting to look put together.

This puts me back on track. With the floor next I have lots to keep me busy.

Thanks again Doug!

Been chipping away at it. Removed the last of the old rear floor pan.

Then I went back and filled the holes left from cutting out the spot welds.

Looks good! Time to cut out that other crossmember!

Yup. Maybe I will get that done tomorrow.

Been a little busy with firewood, but I did get a little bit done. I cut out the last seat crossmember, and removed all the old floor material. Then I decided to clean up as much of the belly pan as I could.

I was focusing on removing seam sealer. That went well until I got to a good stopping point.

Tonight, with Hugh on the oil can we made some holes in the new floor.

I need to clean up the backs of the holes, clean off the oil and spray on some weld-through primer and then the floor will be ready to weld into place.

Great progress!

Stopping point...



John

I know that it has been a while (its cold out there), but I promise that I have not been totally inactive. I finished welding in the floor!

It was nice and warm today so I got a little more done on the car. The bottom is really starting to shape up. I still need to add the reinforcement parts and the floor will be done. Then it is onto the inside of the cabin, rear quarter and rear trunk floor.

You are making some great progress! Keep plugging away and keep the pics rolling in.

Is this car done yet?

No... I have done a little. I got the new cross member, but have not welded it in yet. I hope to have an update Sunday.

Doug; When are you going to bring something over to work on? Welcome anytime.

OK, at long last, an update. I finished the underside of the floor.

Now I have flipped the car around and started fitting the cross member.

Anyone know what the distance should be from the back of the cross member to the firewall?

on my '72, it is exactly 18 inches from the firewall to the crossmember.

Thanks! Anyone else? Is 18" the standard. It seems close to where the old one was, but not exactly.

I just did this job too.. but the notes are at my brothers place.
I'll see if I can get that for you here shortly.

Thanks!

18 3/16'' on mine...

Thanks!

Seams they all differ a little but I have 18 1/8 ''

OK, thanks everybody. It sounds like it is not too critical. I will just put it back as close as I can to where the old one was and not worry too much.

Finally an update.

Got the cross member welded in. Then a big step.. I cut out the extra braces, the car is supported on its own, with just the regular door brace.

Also got the little seat adjuster bracket that welds to the cross member. Slowly moving forward, very slowly.

This has been fun to read and inspirational to boot! I'm wondering (because I don't see) if your center tunnel was intact to begin with- looks to me like it was. That's the problem with my project. Have you seen a repro center tunnel in your searches?

Thanks, glad you are enjoying it.
The center tunnel on my project was one part that was good. I only took the floor out from under the back half. No I have never seen a repo one, but there are lots of good ones on parts cars. I guarantee that someone here has a good used one in their stash.

After Okteenerfest inspiration and some mild chastisement, I worked up the nerve to test fit the door.
How does this look?

Making nice progress. Keep at it! Hopefully you'll beat my six year restoration (and counting). But that's because my kids are grown and in school (college).

Build-Off Challenge begins!

Keep those doors in place now as you do the rest of the welding to know when and if you do something wrong with those rear fenders and sills

My Tasks:
Finish rust repair
Blast
Primer
Paint interior, trunks, engine bay and bottom
install wiring and hoses
Rebuild tranny
Rebuild and install all suspension and steering
Install engine and trans
Install interior
Paint exterior
Trim

Touch up paint